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Something nobody has mentioned yet - if you choose married filing separately, you CANNOT contribute to a Roth IRA if your income exceeds $10,000. This is a huge disadvantage if retirement savings are important to you. The income limit is much higher when filing jointly. Also consider that with MFS status, your standard deduction is halved. For 2024, the standard deduction for MFJ is $29,200 but for MFS it's only $14,600 each. My wife and I did the separate filing for 2 years due to her student loans, but ultimately switched back to joint filing because we were losing too many tax advantages.
Wait seriously? I had no idea about the Roth IRA limitation! I thought the income limits were just reduced, not basically eliminated. That's a huge factor to consider...
Yes, it's one of the most restrictive aspects of filing separately that catches people by surprise. The income limit for Roth IRA contributions when filing separately is just $10,000 - after that, you can't contribute at all. It's not a gradual phase-out like with other filing statuses. For comparison, with married filing jointly in 2024, the Roth contribution starts phasing out at $230,000 and completely phases out at $240,000 of modified AGI.
Have either of you considered doing an analysis of your long-term student loan situation? If you're on an income-based plan that leads to forgiveness after a certain number of years (like PSLF for teachers), sometimes it makes more sense to minimize payments and maximize forgiveness.
This is the approach we took. My wife is a public school teacher going for PSLF, so we file separately to keep her payments low. Yes, we pay more in taxes each year, but after running the numbers, we'll come out ahead by about $42,000 over the 10-year forgiveness period.
Just to clarify something important about stimulus payments - there's a strict timeline for claiming them. The $1400 payment (third stimulus) was technically an advance payment of a 2021 tax credit. If you didn't get it automatically, you were supposed to claim it on your 2021 tax return. If you didn't claim it on your 2021 return, you need to file an amended return (1040-X) for that specific year. You CANNOT claim it on your 2024 return (the one you're filing in 2025). This is a common misunderstanding. You have 3 years from the original filing deadline to amend a return, so you still have time for 2021.
If I file an amended return just for the stimulus credit, will that affect any other parts of my tax situation from that year? I'm worried about opening a can of worms or triggering an audit.
Filing an amended return for just the Recovery Rebate Credit shouldn't affect other aspects of your tax situation if that's the only change you're making. You'll need to complete the entire 1040-X form, but you'll only be changing the specific line related to the credit. The amendment itself doesn't increase your audit risk if the claim is legitimate. Just make sure you have documentation showing you were eligible and didn't receive the payment. The IRS should have records of which payments were issued to you, but having your own bank statements as backup is always smart.
Has anyone else noticed that the GetMyPayment tool on the IRS website is completely useless now? I tried using it to check my stimulus payment status and it's not even available anymore. How are we supposed to confirm what we received if the IRS took down their own tracking tool??
You can check your IRS online account instead. Go to irs.gov and look for "View Your Account." You'll need to create an ID.me account if you don't have one, but once you're in, you can see all the payments that were issued to you including all stimulus payments. It's actually more reliable than the old GetMyPayment tool was.
Something else to consider - don't forget about exemption certificates! If you're selling to businesses who are purchasing your products for resale, they might be exempt from sales tax. You need to collect and maintain valid exemption certificates from these customers. I learned this the hard way during a state audit. They wanted to see all my exemption certificates for the past 3 years and I hadn't been consistently collecting them.
Do you need to verify those certificates somehow? Or just keep them on file? I've had a few business customers claim they're exempt but I wasn't sure if I should just take their word for it.
You need to collect the actual certificate from them - don't just take their word for it. Most states have specific forms customers need to fill out. You should verify the certificate has all required information (their tax ID number, signature, etc.) and keep it on file. Some states also let you verify tax ID numbers on their websites. You don't need to send these certificates to the state, but you absolutely must have them available if you get audited. I now keep digital copies of all certificates in a dedicated folder so I can find them easily.
Has anyone used TaxJar or Avalara for managing sales tax? I'm trying to decide if I should just handle everything manually since I'm small or if one of these services is worth it?
I've used both. TaxJar is more affordable for small businesses but Avalara has more features if you're growing fast. With your sales level ($2,500/month), TaxJar's basic plan would probably be sufficient. The time savings is definitely worth it - it automatically files your returns in multiple states and keeps track of all the weird local tax rates.
One thing nobody's mentioned is that the IRS has certain time limits on how far back they can go to collect. Generally they have 10 years from the date of assessment to collect taxes. But they can't assess taxes until you file! If you never file, the statute of limitations never starts running. So technically they could come after you for taxes from 20 years ago if you never filed. That's why filing late is almost always better than not filing at all - at least the clock starts ticking. Some people think "if I just wait long enough they'll forget about me" but that's not how the IRS works. Their computer systems flag non-filers automatically and eventually you'll get notices.
So when they say "voluntary tax system" that's basically BS right? Like they WILL come after you eventually? I always thought it was more like "we hope you'll pay but if you don't we might not notice" lol.
Voluntary tax" system means'you re expected to calculate and report your own taxes correctly without the government doing it for you first. It'doesn t mean taxes are optional! The IRS receives information from banks, employers, payment processors, etc., and their systems automatically match that information against filed returns. If you'haven t filed but they have records of your (income like 1099s from clients or bank)deposits , their automated systems will eventually flag your account for non-filing. Sometimes it takes years if'you re not on their radar, but digital records have made it much easier for them to catch non-filers. And once they do notice, they can go back indefinitely for unfiledyears.
Has anyone used TurboTax or something similar to file back taxes? I'm in a similar situation (2 years unfiled) and wondering if I can just DIY this without paying an accountant thousands of dollars. The penalties are gonna be bad enough already.
I used FreeTaxUSA for 3 years of back taxes last year. Way cheaper than TurboTax and they keep prior year versions available. You just have to print and mail them in since you can't e-file prior years. Make sure you send them certified mail so you have proof of when you filed. Took about 9 weeks to process each return.
Edward McBride
To answer your original question - yes, you absolutely need to report all crypto-to-crypto trades. BUT if you literally just bought Bitcoin and then immediately traded it for other coins without any significant price movement between purchase and trade, your gains/losses might be minimal or zero. The real question is: how many transactions are we talking about here? If it's just a handful, you could potentially just calculate them manually without paying for the premium feature. Figure out what you paid for the Bitcoin (cost basis) and what it was worth when you traded it for other coins.
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Marilyn Dixon
ā¢Thanks for the response! I probably have about 15-20 transactions total. Not a ton, but enough to be annoying to calculate manually. There were definitely price movements between when I bought the BTC and when I traded it... some trades I made when BTC was way up and others when it had dropped.
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Edward McBride
ā¢With 15-20 transactions and significant price movements, it's probably worth using either TaxAct's crypto feature or one of the specialized services others have mentioned. Trying to manually calculate 20 transactions with varying cost basis is error-prone and time-consuming. Make sure you also track the cost basis of those other coins you received in the trades, because when/if you eventually sell or trade those, you'll need to know what they were "worth" when you acquired them to calculate future gains/losses. This is where specialized crypto tax software really helps, as it maintains that chain of cost basis calculations.
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Darcy Moore
Dumb question maybe, but do we still need to report crypto if we're at a loss overall? I'm down like 40% from what I put in lol
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Dana Doyle
ā¢Yes, you should still report it. The silver lining is that those losses can offset other capital gains or up to $3,000 of ordinary income. So reporting your crypto losses could actually reduce your overall tax bill!
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