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Has anyone had issues with the 1098-T not showing all qualified expenses? My wife's university didn't include some required course fees on the form even though they're eligible for the credit.
Just be careful with applying for the ITIN at the same time as filing. We did this last year (similar H1-B/F1 situation) and our refund was delayed nearly 4 months while they processed the ITIN application. If possible, I'd recommend getting the ITIN before filing to avoid delays.
Yikes, 4 months is a long wait! Is there any way to expedite the ITIN process? We're already in February and I'm worried about getting everything done before the filing deadline.
Unfortunately, there's no official expedite process for ITINs. However, you can use a Certified Acceptance Agent (CAA) instead of mailing in original documents, which can speed things up. Some CAAs can verify your documents on the spot and submit certified copies with your application. Also, you can still file on time even if the ITIN isn't processed yet. Just submit your return with the W-7 by the deadline, and you won't face late filing penalties. Your refund will be held until the ITIN is issued, but at least you'll be in compliance with the filing deadline.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you're tracking EVERYTHING. I use a spreadsheet with categories for all business expenses (software, equipment, home office, travel, etc). Also take photos of receipts with your phone immediately. Trust me, trying to sort through a shoebox of receipts at tax time is a nightmare I've lived through.
Do you use any specific apps for tracking expenses? I've been just using my phone's camera for receipts but it's getting disorganized fast.
I personally use QuickBooks Self-Employed which automatically categorizes most expenses when connected to your bank account/credit card. It also has a receipt scanner in the app that can match receipts to transactions. There are also free options like Wave that work well for basic tracking. The important thing is having a system - any system - rather than trying to remember everything at tax time. Just make sure you're consistent with it and do a quick review weekly so things don't pile up.
Don't forget about setting aside money for taxes! The general rule I follow is 25-30% of all freelance income goes straight into a separate savings account. Learned this the hard way my first year when I owed way more than expected. Self-employment tax (15.3%) plus regular income tax adds up fast.
I use 28% as my set-aside percentage and it's worked perfectly for the last three years. Also remember you'll need to make quarterly estimated payments if you expect to owe more than $1000 at tax time. The due dates are April 15, June 15, Sept 15, and Jan 15 of the following year.
What nobody has mentioned yet is that you might qualify for an "abatement of penalties" even if you have to pay the full tax amount. The IRS has something called First Time Penalty Abatement for people with generally good filing history who made a one-time mistake. When I forgot to report some 1099 income a few years back, I called the IRS and specifically asked for this, and they removed about $3,800 in penalties! You still pay the tax and interest, but removing the penalties can save thousands. Also, if the unreported income was from royalties, make sure they calculated your tax correctly. You might be eligible for certain deductions that would lower the overall bill, like the Qualified Business Income deduction if your music counts as a business.
How do you apply for this First Time Penalty Abatement? Is there a specific form or do you just call and ask? And does it actually work for amounts this large?
You don't need any special form - just call the IRS directly and specifically request "First Time Penalty Abatement" or "FTA." Make sure to call the number on your notice. The size of the penalty doesn't matter for FTA eligibility - it's based on your compliance history. To qualify, you generally need to have filed all required returns and paid (or arranged to pay) any tax due for the past 3 years, and you can't have had penalties in those years either. The IRS agent will check your history right on the call. In my case, they approved it immediately, but sometimes they might need to review further or ask you to submit a written request. Even for large penalties, the approval process is the same. Just be polite but direct about requesting it.
Just one quick warning - if you're thinking about the 10-year statute of limitations as a strategy, be aware that certain actions can extend that period. Filing an installment agreement, submitting an offer in compromise, filing bankruptcy, or leaving the country for an extended period can all add time to that 10-year clock. Also, the IRS interest rate is currently 7% which compounds daily (ouch!) plus failure-to-pay penalties that can add another 0.5% per month up to 25%. So you're looking at something like 13-14% annually, which is definitely higher than average stock market returns. At $25k, I'd strongly consider paying it off ASAP if you have the funds. The peace of mind alone is worth it, plus the guaranteed 13-14% "return" by avoiding those charges beats most investments.
Just want to add one important point nobody mentioned yet - if you withdraw from your Roth IRA to pay these taxes, you'll be creating even MORE tax problems for yourself! You can withdraw contributions without penalty, but if you touch any earnings before retirement age (with some exceptions), you'll pay a 10% penalty PLUS regular income tax on those earnings. Your best bet is to leave the Roth alone and set up a payment plan with the IRS. The interest rate is usually better than what you'd effectively lose by raiding your retirement funds early.
Omg thank you for mentioning this! I didn't realize there was a difference between withdrawing contributions vs earnings from my Roth. Is there an easy way to tell which is which when I go to make a withdrawal? And yeah I'll definitely try for the payment plan route first!
Your Roth IRA provider should be able to tell you exactly how much of your account balance is from contributions versus earnings. Generally, withdrawals come from contributions first, so if you've contributed more than you're planning to withdraw, you should be able to take that amount out without tax consequences. For example, if you've put in $12,000 over the years and your account is now worth $14,000, you can withdraw up to $12,000 penalty-free. Just contact your provider before making any withdrawals to confirm the exact amount of your contributions. And definitely pursue that payment plan with the IRS - they offer reasonable terms, especially for first-time issues.
Has anyone here actually amended returns for scholarship income from past years? I'm wondering what the process was like. Did you get hit with huge penalties or was the IRS understanding about it?
I amended returns for 2 years of unreported scholarship income about 3 years ago. The process wasn't as bad as I expected. I used Form 1040-X for federal and had to fill out amended state returns too. The IRS charged interest on the unpaid taxes (inevitable), but I qualified for First Time Penalty Abatement which saved me hundreds in failure-to-file penalties. I wrote a letter explaining that I genuinely didn't understand scholarships were taxable, and they were pretty reasonable. Set up a payment plan for $150/month and it's almost paid off now.
Naila Gordon
Have you looked into tax software that lets you prepare everything yourself but then just pay a smaller fee for only the e-filing portion? Some programs let you work through everything for free, then charge $15-20 just for the state and federal transmission rather than the full $50+ for the complete service. Might be a middle ground between completely free paper filing and the more expensive full-service options.
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Gael Robinson
ā¢I didn't know that was an option! Most of the ones I looked at wanted the full payment upfront before even starting. Do you have specific ones you'd recommend that let you pay just for the filing part? I've already filled out all my forms so I'm really just looking for the electronic submission part.
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Naila Gordon
ā¢FreeTaxUSA is pretty good for this approach. You can complete your federal return for free, then it's just $15 for the state portion. Some others like TaxAct and TaxSlayer have similar options where the federal basic filing is free and you just pay for state. If you've literally already completed the physical forms with a pen, then using the IRS Free File Fillable Forms mentioned above is your best bet. You'll just need to transfer the information from your paper forms to the electronic versions. There's a bit of duplicate work, but it's free and gives you the e-file benefits.
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Cynthia Love
Don't forget to make copies of everything before mailing!!! Learned this the hard way when the IRS claimed they never received my return two years ago and I had no proof. Such a nightmare. Also if ur expecting a refund, paper filing will slow it down by weeks or months compared to e-filing.
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Darren Brooks
ā¢Certified mail with return receipt is essential too. It's a few extra dollars at the post office but gives you proof of when they received it. I file on paper every year and always use certified mail after having a return "lost" in 2018.
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