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Adding to the discussion on income-only taxation - one major issue not considered is wealth inequality. Income tax only targets active earnings, but much of the wealth held by the ultra-rich isn't in regular income but in appreciating assets like stocks, real estate, etc. This is why many economists argue for some form of wealth taxation alongside income taxes. If we eliminated property taxes, capital gains taxes, etc., we'd basically be giving a permanent tax holiday to those who live primarily off assets rather than wages. Also, consumption taxes can actually be beneficial for economic stability because they provide a more consistent revenue stream during recessions when incomes might fall dramatically. No perfect system exists, but a balanced approach with simplified versions of different tax types probably makes more sense than going all-in on just income taxation.
Great point about wealth vs income! I never thought about how rich people often have low "income" on paper while their net worth grows by millions. How would you design a wealth tax that's actually effective without hurting regular people who might have a valuable house but not much cash?
Designing an effective wealth tax requires careful thresholds to target only significant wealth. For example, setting the threshold at $10 million in net assets would exempt most homeowners completely. You can also create progressive rates that increase with wealth levels and offer deferred payment options for asset-rich but cash-poor situations. The key is exempting primary residences up to a reasonable value, retirement accounts up to certain limits, and small business assets under a threshold. This protects regular people while still addressing the enormous untaxed wealth accumulation at the very top. Annual reporting requirements and strong valuation methods would be essential to prevent avoidance strategies.
Having lived in 6 different countries, I've experienced many tax systems firsthand. The simplest wasn't necessarily the best. In Singapore, they have very straightforward taxes, but it created other societal issues. In the Nordic countries, taxes are high but extremely transparent in how they're calculated and spent. The problem with income-only taxation is it misses huge parts of economic activity. For example, tourism: visitors consume resources but would pay zero under income-only systems. One approach I liked was in New Zealand, where they have a fairly simple GST (goods and services tax) applied broadly with very few exemptions, combined with a progressive income tax. The simplicity wasn't from having just one tax, but from having few exemptions and very clear rules.
Another option - check if your 529 plan's website has a tax credit calculator tool! My state's 529 plan (Virginia) has a simple calculator where you put in your income and contribution amount, and it tells you exactly what your state tax credit will be. Makes it super easy to play around with different contribution amounts to find the sweet spot. Most of the major state plans have these now. Much easier than trying to decode the tax instructions yourself.
Do these calculators take into account things like income phase-outs and other limitations? Sometimes I worry those online tools are oversimplified and miss the details.
Most of the good ones do factor in phase-outs and limitations! The Virginia one specifically asks for your income and filing status, then applies any phase-outs automatically. I've found them to be pretty accurate. The one limitation I've noticed is that some calculators don't handle multiple beneficiaries well. So if you're contributing to 529 plans for multiple people and your state allows credits for each, you might need to do some additional calculations yourself.
One thing that tripped me up with my 529 credit - make sure you're not confusing deductions vs. credits! Some states offer DEDUCTIONS for 529 contributions (which reduce your taxable income) while others offer CREDITS (which directly reduce your tax bill dollar-for-dollar). Credits are way more valuable! A $1,000 tax credit saves you exactly $1,000. A $1,000 tax deduction might only save you $40-$70 depending on your tax bracket.
Great point! I misunderstood this for years and was excited about my state's "$5,000 529 benefit" until I realized it was a deduction, not a credit. At my tax rate that's only saving me about $250, not $5,000!
Exactly! The terminology makes a huge difference. I've found that states with deductions often allow much higher amounts ($10,000+ in some cases) while states with credits usually have lower limits but they're worth more dollar-for-dollar. It's also worth checking if your state allows carryforward of excess contributions. Some states let you carry forward contributions beyond the annual limit to get the deduction/credit in future years.
Something nobody's mentioned yet - if you're in a high property tax state like NJ, NY or CA, the $10k SALT cap (State And Local Tax deduction limit) really affects whether mortgage interest helps you. My property taxes alone are $14k, but I can only deduct $10k of that. So even with $12k in mortgage interest, my itemized deductions barely exceed the standard deduction for married filing jointly. Before the 2017 tax law changes, having a mortgage was a no-brainer tax benefit for most homeowners. Now it really depends on your specific situation.
That's a really good point I hadn't considered! My property taxes are around $8k, and with state income tax on top of that, I'm definitely hitting that $10k SALT cap. Maybe that's partly why my mortgage interest doesn't seem to be helping at all with my taxes. Would you say it made sense for you to keep your mortgage or are you considering paying it off too?
I'm in a similar position to you - considering whether to keep or pay off my mortgage. For me, the math works out that I'm getting very minimal tax benefit from the mortgage interest. I'm getting maybe a $1,000 extra deduction from itemizing versus taking the standard deduction. At a 24% tax bracket, that's saving me about $240 in taxes while I'm paying far more in interest. I'm actually planning to pay off a significant chunk of my mortgage this year. Not the whole thing, but enough to reduce my interest to the point where I'll just take the standard deduction going forward. The psychological benefit of having a much smaller mortgage outweighs the tiny tax advantage for me.
Remember that even if mortgage interest isn't giving you a tax benefit now, if interest rates rise and your income increases, that could change in the future. I've seen ppl pay off mortgages then regret it when their tax situation changed a few years later and they could have benefited from the deduction. Also don't forget about inflation! $300k debt today will feel like much less in 15-20 years with normal inflation.
Just a heads up, don't forget about state taxes too! Depending on where you live, you might owe state income tax on your babysitting income as well. Most states follow similar rules to the federal government regarding self-employment, but some have different thresholds or requirements.
Wait I didn't even think about state taxes! Do I need to file a separate form for that or is it all part of the same tax return?
It depends on your state. Most states have their own version of Schedule C that you'll fill out along with your state tax return. You'll generally use the same income and expense information that you report on your federal Schedule C. Some states also have a lower threshold for filing requirements than the federal $400 self-employment threshold, so even if you somehow made less than $400, you might still need to file a state return. Check your specific state's tax department website for the exact requirements and forms you'll need.
Just wondering, does anyone know if the tax software like TurboTax or H&R Block can handle this kind of situation easily? I'm in a similar boat with some freelance work and not sure if I should try to do it myself or use software.
Most tax software can definitely handle self-employment income. I used TurboTax last year for my tutoring side gig and it walked me through everything step by step. It asked about expenses and calculated all the self-employment tax automatically. Just make sure you get the Self-Employed version, not the basic one.
Aidan Hudson
Something nobody mentioned yet - you should really look into getting a proper business license and registering your art business with your state/city! I learned this the hard way. I ran my design business for 2 years just treating it as extra income before finding out I needed a business license in my city. Got hit with back fees and a small penalty. Each place has different requirements, but usually there's a simple business registration you need to file. Also, once you're official, you can get a resale certificate which lets you buy supplies without paying sales tax (since your customers pay the tax when they buy from you). Saved me thousands on materials alone.
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Tyler Lefleur
ā¢I hadn't even thought about business licenses! Is that something I need even if I'm just doing occasional art markets and some online sales? How do I find out what my local requirements are?
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Aidan Hudson
ā¢Even for occasional sales, most places require some form of business registration. It varies widely by location though. Start by checking your city's website for "business license" or "business registration" - most have simple online forms. Your county may also have requirements, especially if you're in an unincorporated area. The good thing is that for small creative businesses, the fees are usually pretty reasonable - mine was only $85 per year. The sales tax exemption on supplies makes it worth it alone. Also check if your state requires a general business registration or DBA ("doing business as") filing if you're operating under a business name rather than your personal name.
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Zoe Wang
Just wanted to share what worked for me as a glass artist: I use the "profit first" system where I have multiple business accounts that I transfer specific percentages into: - One account for taxes (25-30% of income) - One for business expenses (30-35%) - One for business profit (5-10%) - One for owner compensation (rest) Every time money comes in, I immediately split it into those accounts. This way I'm always setting aside tax money and know exactly how much I can spend on supplies vs take as personal income.
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Connor Richards
ā¢This is a really smart approach! How did you decide on those specific percentages though? Are those standard or did you customize based on your business?
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