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Another option is to just wait and see if the IRS sends you a CP2000 notice. They'll automatically match your 1099-INT with your return and send you a letter if there's a discrepancy. Then you can just pay what they say you owe.
Terrible advice. If you wait for a CP2000, they'll charge you interest from the date the tax was due, and possibly penalties too. Plus it could affect your credit score. Always better to fix your own mistakes proactively.
Make sure you don't file the amended return electronically if you've already e-filed your original return. You'll need to print and mail Form 1040-X. And keep in mind that amended returns take FOREVER to process - like 6+ months sometimes. The IRS is still catching up from the pandemic.
I know everyone's saying to claim it, but honestly, for only $58 in contributions, your Savers Credit is gonna be tiny. If your income is low enough to qualify for the 50% rate (which is the highest), you'd get a whopping $29. At the 10% rate? We're talking $5.80 lol. But it'll probably take you at least 15-30 mins to figure out how to properly fill out Form 8880, so you're essentially "earning" like $10-20/hour by claiming it. But hey, if you're already doing your taxes and the software handles it automatically, why not. Still, I'd focus more on trying to contribute more to retirement this year! Even small regular contributions add up over time.
But isn't it still worth claiming even if it's small? I always thought you should take every credit you qualify for, no matter how small. Plus doesn't it help establish a pattern of claiming it for future years?
Yes, it's technically worth claiming because every dollar counts. Even if it's just $5-29 back, that's still money you're entitled to. And you're absolutely right that it helps establish the habit of claiming the credit in future years when your contributions will hopefully be larger. I didn't mean to suggest skipping it entirely - just providing perspective on the time/value tradeoff. If you're using tax software, it should handle Form 8880 pretty easily, making it definitely worth the few minutes to enter your contribution. My main point was to focus on increasing those retirement contributions going forward, as that's where the real value is long-term.
Dont 4get that the Savers Credit is NON-REFUNDABLE!! This means if u dont owe any tax it wont help u. So many ppl miss this and get disappointed. Check ur tax liability first b4 getting excited about Form 8880. If ur tax is already 0 then the credit won't matter.
My advice based on personal experience: if these trusts have any significant assets or complexity, don't DIY this unless you're truly comfortable with trust taxation. I tried using TurboTax Business for a family trust last year and ended up making errors that required filing amended returns. The main issues I ran into were properly reporting investment expenses (some are deductible against trust income, others aren't after the tax law changes), correctly applying the high trust tax rates, and figuring out the accounting income vs. taxable income differences. Even with the software "guiding" me, I made mistakes because I didn't fully understand the underlying concepts.
How much did it end up costing to fix the mistakes? I'm trying to weigh the cost of hiring a pro versus doing it myself.
The direct cost to fix the mistakes wasn't huge - about $350 for a tax professional to prepare and file the amended returns. However, the real cost was the time and stress. It took almost 6 months to get everything sorted out with the IRS, including several follow-up letters and clarifications. The bigger issue was that I had to explain to family members why we received unexpected IRS notices, which was uncomfortable and made me look incompetent. Looking back, I would have gladly paid the $800-1200 that a professional would have charged originally to avoid all that hassle. Trust taxation has some unique rules that most DIY software doesn't explain well, even if it technically supports the forms.
I'm in a similar situation with a smaller family trust. Does anybody know if there's a big difference between the types of trusts when it comes to tax filing complexity? Mine is a revocable living trust if that makes any difference.
Huge difference! A revocable living trust typically doesn't require a separate tax return at all - the income is usually just reported on the grantor's personal return (Schedule E). The trust you're describing is likely what's called a "grantor trust" for tax purposes. What OP is describing sounds like irrevocable trusts that are separate taxpaying entities requiring Form 1041 returns. Those are much more complex.
Something else to consider - do you have any 1099 income at all? Even a small amount would strengthen your position for putting the malpractice tail on Schedule C. Maybe a few medical consultations or chart reviews you could do? In my experience (tax preparer), the IRS is less likely to question the Schedule C treatment if you show at least some related income, even if it's minimal compared to the expense. Starting a legitimate business activity with even a small amount of income before filing would give you stronger footing.
Would moonlighting at an urgent care for even just a few shifts count for this? I'm in a similar situation (different professional liability insurance though) and wondering if even just a few thousand in 1099 income would help establish the business intent.
Yes, moonlighting at an urgent care as a 1099 contractor would absolutely help establish business intent. Even just a few shifts generating a couple thousand dollars would create a much stronger case that you were genuinely engaged in business activity related to the insurance expense. The key is making sure you're actually classified as an independent contractor (receiving a 1099) rather than a part-time employee (W-2). As long as you have some legitimate 1099 income from medical work, you'll be in a much better position to justify the large deduction on Schedule C.
Hey just a heads up - I'm an accountant and have worked with physicians in similar situations. Make sure you consider the impact on self-employment taxes too. If you report the tail on Schedule C with zero or minimal income, you'll show a loss that will offset ordinary income but won't create SE tax. However, if your husband has SE income from real estate, your tail expense can't offset his SE tax since it's not related to his business. Each Schedule C is treated separately. You might want to run the numbers both ways (Schedule C loss vs. possibly amortizing the tail over multiple years if you do any 1099 work in the future) to see what makes the most sense for your specific situation.
Thank you so much for this insight! I hadn't even considered the self-employment tax angle. The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning toward filing Schedule C with the full expense. I actually do have some very minimal income (around $3K) from chart reviews I did while transitioning between jobs. That should help establish business intent, right? I'm thinking I'll use some combination of the advice here - documenting everything thoroughly, including my correspondence with the locums company about credentialing, and making sure I'm prepared in case of an audit. The tax savings between Schedule C vs. effectively no deduction on Schedule A is just too significant to ignore.
Andre Dupont
One thing nobody's mentioned yet is the currency exchange risk. Your $130k USD salary in Montreal will be paid in Canadian dollars, so your actual take-home in USD terms will fluctuate with exchange rates. This doesn't directly affect your tax situation, but it does impact your real purchasing power if you have US debts or plan to move back eventually. Also, Quebec has higher sales tax (14.975% combined GST/QST) compared to Texas (6.25% state sales tax plus up to 2% local). This isn't income tax, but it affects your overall cost of living.
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Mateo Gonzalez
•That's a really good point about currency risk that I hadn't considered! Do you know if there are any tax-efficient ways to manage currency conversion when sending money back to the US? I'll still have some student loans and a car payment in USD.
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Andre Dupont
•There aren't specific tax advantages for currency conversion, but you might want to look into services like Wise (formerly TransferWise) or OFX for better exchange rates than banks offer. The conversions themselves aren't tax events unless you're actually trading currencies as investments. For your US debts, you might consider keeping a US bank account open and periodically transferring larger sums to minimize conversion fees, rather than monthly smaller transfers. Some expats also maintain US credit cards for US-based recurring payments while living abroad, which can simplify things.
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Zoe Papadakis
Don't overlook the totalization agreement between the US and Canada regarding social security! You'll be paying into the Canada/Quebec Pension Plan instead of US Social Security, but the agreement ensures these contributions count toward your eligibility for both systems. This becomes important if you don't spend your entire career in one country - you might be eligible for partial benefits from both systems depending on your total work history. The IRS Publication 519 has details on this, and it's definitely worth reading.
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ThunderBolt7
•This is so important and often overlooked! I worked in Canada for 7 years and then moved back to the US. When I applied for Social Security benefits, they initially calculated without my Canadian work history. I had to specifically request they consider the totalization agreement, which increased my monthly benefit by about $300!
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