


Ask the community...
Whatever you do, don't try to update your direct deposit info through email if anyone suggests that! My cousin got scammed this way last year - got an email claiming to be from the IRS about updating bank info for his refund. Turned out to be identity thieves. The IRS NEVER initiates contact through email about refunds or personal info. Just wait for the paper check like others have suggested. It takes a bit longer but it's the safest option at this point.
This happened to my mom too! She got a text message with a link to "update direct deposit info" and almost fell for it. These scammers know exactly when tax season is and target people waiting for refunds. The IRS will NEVER text or email you asking for bank information.
Has anyone had luck with calling the IRS Taxpayer Advocate Service instead of the main IRS number? I've heard they sometimes can help with refund issues if it's causing financial hardship.
The Taxpayer Advocate Service is really only for serious hardship cases or if you've tried multiple times to resolve an issue with the IRS without success. For a simple returned direct deposit that's being converted to a check, they probably won't take the case since the IRS has a standard procedure already in place.
Thanks for the clarification. Guess I'll just have to be patient and wait for the paper check to arrive. Seems like there's no way to speed up the process once the direct deposit has been rejected.
Have you considered checking if you qualify for the IRS Free File program? If your income is under $73,000, you might be able to file completely free using brand-name software. H&R Block doesn't participate anymore, but TurboTax, TaxAct and others do. Even if you don't qualify for Free File, most of the major software options are much cheaper than $405 for a straightforward return. I paid $49 for TaxSlayer this year for a return with W-2s, mortgage interest, and charitable donations.
Thanks for this suggestion! I didn't realize there was an income threshold for free filing options. My income is actually around $78,000 so I just miss that cutoff, but $49 sounds way more reasonable than what H&R Block quoted me. Did you find TaxSlayer easy to use? I'm not super tax-savvy but can follow clear instructions.
TaxSlayer is pretty user-friendly with a straightforward interface. It walks you through everything step by step with explanations along the way. The questions are clear and it imports W-2s if you have your employer's EIN number. For mortgage interest, you just enter the information from your Form 1098. Even if you're not tax-savvy, these programs are designed for regular people. They have help sections and explanations for almost everything. And if you get stuck, most have support options where you can chat with a tax pro for specific questions.
I worked at H&R Block for two tax seasons and can tell you that $405 is their standard pricing for their "Deluxe" tier which they push on anyone with itemized deductions like mortgage interest. The problem is they automatically bundle in their "Peace of Mind" guarantee (basically audit protection) which adds about $100 to the bill without clearly explaining it's optional. If you do go with them, specifically ask to remove the Peace of Mind add-on and any other extras. The base price should be closer to $250-300 which is still high but more reasonable.
has anyone looked into municipal bonds? they're tax-free at the federal level and usually at the state level too if you buy in-state bonds. i put about 20% of my investments there and it helps lower my overall tax burden even though im a w2 employee.
Municipal bonds can be a good strategy, but remember they typically have lower returns compared to taxable investments. They make the most sense if you're in a high tax bracket. If you're in the 22% bracket or lower, you might actually come out ahead with taxable investments even after paying the taxes.
Don't forget that you should also look at state-specific tax minimization strategies. Some states have special deductions or credits that aren't available at the federal level. For example, my state offers a deduction for 529 college savings contributions that saves me about $400 per year in state taxes. Review your state tax forms or talk to a local tax pro about state-specific opportunities!
FYI - Medicare tax (the other part of FICA) doesn't have a cap like OASDI does. You'll keep paying that 1.45% no matter how much you earn. And if you make over $200,000 ($250,000 for married filing jointly), there's an additional 0.9% Medicare surtax on earnings above that threshold. Just something to be aware of when you're looking at your paycheck and wondering why some deductions stop and others don't!
Thanks for pointing that out! I was wondering why my paycheck summary shows both OASDI and Medicare as separate items. So even if OASDI stops after hitting the cap, the Medicare part (1.45%) continues indefinitely?
Yes, exactly! While the OASDI portion will stop once you hit the cap ($168,600 for 2025), the Medicare portion never stops. You'll continue paying the 1.45% Medicare tax on all your earned income regardless of how much you make. And if your income exceeds $200,000 for single filers or $250,000 for married filing jointly, you'll also pay that additional 0.9% Medicare surtax on the amount above those thresholds. This is part of the Additional Medicare Tax that was implemented as part of the Affordable Care Act.
Quick tip: if you want to estimate when you'll hit the OASDI cap, take your gross pay per paycheck and multiply by 6.2%. That's your OASDI contribution per pay period. Then divide the annual max ($10,453.20 for 2025) by that amount to see how many full paychecks it'll take to reach the cap. If you get paid biweekly and make $150k, each paycheck would have about $403 in OASDI tax. You'd hit the cap after about 26 paychecks, right at the end of the year.
This is helpful but what about if your income fluctuates? I get paid base + commission so each paycheck is different.
Chloe Taylor
Don't forget that Form 8938 thresholds are different if you're living abroad! If you qualify as an expat (physical presence test or bona fide residence test), the thresholds are much higher - $200,000 on the last day of the year or $300,000 at any time during the year for single filers. I made the mistake of filing unnecessary 8938 forms for two years before a tax preparer pointed this out to me. Wasted a bunch of time gathering all that information when I was well below the applicable threshold as an expat.
0 coins
Javier Gomez
ā¢Does this mean I might not need to file if I was living outside the US for part of the year? I was actually working in Asia for about 4 months last year on a project. How does that affect my filing requirements?
0 coins
Chloe Taylor
ā¢You would need to qualify as a foreign resident under either the physical presence test (330 days outside the US in a 12-month period) or the bona fide residence test (established residence in a foreign country for an entire tax year). Based on what you described - just 4 months abroad - you wouldn't qualify for the higher foreign resident thresholds. You'd still use the standard domestic thresholds ($50,000 on last day/$75,000 any time for single). The higher thresholds are really designed for Americans who are living abroad permanently or for extended periods.
0 coins
Diego Flores
Anyone else getting conflicting info from different IRS publications about what actually needs to be reported on Form 8938? Pub 54 seems to contradict Form 8938 instructions about certain types of assets... š¤Æ
0 coins
Anastasia Ivanova
ā¢The most reliable source is the actual Form 8938 instructions document from irs.gov. Publication 54 is more general for Americans abroad. The specific rules for what counts as a "specified foreign financial asset" are detailed in the 8938 instructions. Generally includes: - Financial accounts at foreign financial institutions - Foreign stock or securities not held in a financial account - Interest in a foreign entity - Financial instrument with a foreign issuer or counterparty
0 coins