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I had a similar issue happen to me but with a different number - it was showing $76,892 for my business vehicle when I only drove like 12,000 miles. Turns out I had entered the vehicle purchase price in a field meant for annual expenses. Check if you maybe entered the value of the van somewhere??
That's a really good point - I did buy this van new for around $67,000 last year. Maybe I entered the purchase price somewhere I shouldn't have and then the software added depreciation or something on top of it? I'm going to go back and look for that. Maybe it's also accounting for future depreciation in some weird way? Thanks for the suggestion!
You're welcome! Yeah, that's almost certainly what happened. The purchase price should only be entered in the asset/depreciation section, not as a direct expense. The software will then calculate the correct amount you can deduct each year based on depreciation rules. If you bought a $67k van, the software is probably trying to depreciate it plus adding your maintenance costs plus calculating mileage. Triple counting! Once you fix where you entered the purchase price, everything should look more normal.
Def double dipping! U can't take standard mileage AND actual expenses. Pick one! I do taxes and see this all the time. W standard mileage at 65.5 cents per mile, 4000 miles = $2,620 deduction. If actual expenses (gas, maintenance, insurance, etc) + depreciation is more than $2,620, do that instead. But NOT BOTH!!!!!
Is that 65.5 cents still accurate for 2024 taxes? I thought I saw somewhere that the IRS changed the rate again.
A tip from someone who's been in this situation for years: if you don't want to mess with complicated W4 calculations, you can also just put an additional flat dollar amount to withhold on line 4(c) of your main job's W4. A rough estimate: take your expected annual income from the second job, find your marginal tax bracket percentage, and divide that amount by the number of pay periods left at your main job. For example, if your side gig pays $6,000/year and you're in the 22% bracket, that's $1,320 in potential additional tax. If you get paid bi-weekly at your main job and have 10 pay periods left in the year, add $132 to line 4(c). This isn't perfect but it's a simple approach that has kept me from owing big amounts at tax time.
Would this still work if both jobs have widely different pay? My main job is about $75k but my weekend job only brings in like $9k. I'm worried about being in different tax brackets.
Yes, it still works with different pay levels! The important thing is to calculate based on your highest marginal tax bracket when combining all income. At $75k for your main job, you're already in the 22% federal bracket (assuming single filing status). The additional $9k from your weekend job would also be taxed at 22% federally. So you'd take $9,000 Ć 0.22 = $1,980 in additional tax for the year. Then divide that by your remaining pay periods to get the per-paycheck additional withholding amount. Just remember this is a simplified approach. If you're close to moving into a higher bracket with the combined income, you might want to use the IRS calculator for more precision.
don't forget about social security and medicare taxes!! those are flat percentages (6.2% for social security up to the wage base and 1.45% for medicare on all earned income). so even if your income tax withholding is correct, having two jobs might mess with these calculations if you're near the social security wage base limit also some states have their own withholding forms separate from the federal W4. i learned this the hard way and ended up owing $800 to my state even though my federal was fine!!!
5 This has happened to me before with Vanguard. In my case, it was because I had some foreign stocks that required additional information from international sources, so my forms were delayed. If you have any international investments or funds with foreign holdings, that could be the issue. Another possibility is that if your dividends are all qualified dividends under a certain threshold, they might be reported differently. Have you checked if Vanguard included the information on a consolidated 1099 form instead of separate 1099-DIV and 1099-B forms?
1 I don't have any foreign investments, it's all US-based index funds and a few individual stocks. And from what I can see, there's no consolidated form either - the website literally says "no tax forms available for 2023." I'm starting to think it might be a technical glitch based on what others have said.
5 That's definitely strange then. If you're only seeing US-based investments with no forms at all, it sounds like a system issue on their end. Vanguard has been upgrading their online systems and there have been quite a few glitches reported. I'd recommend trying one of the contact methods suggested above. In my experience, once you actually get through to someone at Vanguard, they're quite helpful at resolving these kinds of issues. The forms definitely exist (they're legally required to create them), it's just a matter of getting access to them.
11 I'm in the same boat with Fidelity! Did anyone actually try calling Vanguard the old-fashioned way? What number did you use? The main customer service line has kept me on hold for ages.
3 I had success calling early in the morning right when they open (around 8am ET). The wait times are much shorter then. For Vanguard specifically, try their tax form support line at 877-662-7447 instead of the main customer service number. They seem to be more direct and knowledgeable about these issues.
Just to add some additional info that might help - I'm a tax preparer and deal with this question a lot for rideshare drivers. Remember that Section 179 isn't your only option. You could also: 1) Take bonus depreciation instead of Section 179 (different rules apply) 2) Depreciate the vehicle over 5 years using MACRS 3) Use the standard mileage rate instead ($.655/mile for 2025) which is often better for many drivers For an $80k vehicle used 100% for rideshare, you need to consider what makes the most sense long-term. Also, be careful about the weight of the vehicle - SUVs over 6,000 lbs GVWR have different Section 179 limits than lighter vehicles.
Is there a reason to choose regular depreciation over Section 179 if you can take the full amount? Seems like getting the deduction sooner would always be better?
Great question! There are several reasons why you might choose regular depreciation instead of Section 179, even when you qualify for the full deduction. The biggest one is if your business income is relatively low compared to the vehicle cost. Taking the full Section 179 in year one could create a large business loss that might be limited in how it can offset other income. If you expect your rideshare income to increase in future years, spreading the deduction over time through regular depreciation might actually save you more in taxes overall. Also, if you're in a lower tax bracket now but expect to be in a higher bracket in future years, saving some depreciation for those higher-bracket years can be more valuable.
Has anyone tried using TurboSelf-Employed for calculating these vehicle deductions? My vehicle is about $65k and I'm trying to figure out if the software handles Section 179 correctly when you have both W2 and 1099 income...
I used TurboSelf-Employed last year for this exact situation. It does handle Section 179, but I found it doesn't explain the limitations very well. It will automatically apply the business loss limitations but doesn't really tell you why or how they work. I ended up having to do a bunch of research on my own to understand why I couldn't offset all my W2 income.
Chloe Boulanger
One thing I learned the hard way with amendments - if you wait too long after discovering an error, the IRS can technically consider it "willful neglect" which carries much higher penalties. I'm not saying this to scare you, but just something to be aware of. In your case, waiting a few weeks for your refund is fine, but I wouldn't wait months. The official rule is that you should file an amendment "promptly after discovering the error" - which isn't very specific, I know. Generally, within 30-60 days of discovering the error keeps you in the clear.
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Maya Patel
ā¢Would the IRS actually know when I "discovered" the error though? Like if I file the amendment in a month, couldn't I just say I discovered it then? Not trying to be deceptive, just wondering how they determine when you knew about a mistake.
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Chloe Boulanger
ā¢Technically the IRS doesn't know when you discovered the error unless there's some obvious paper trail (like they sent you a notice about it). However, I always advise being honest because if you ever did face an audit or review, lying about when you discovered an error could significantly compound your problems. In practice, filing an amendment within 1-2 months is generally considered prompt enough that the timing wouldn't be questioned. The IRS is primarily concerned with willful, long-term neglect - like someone discovering an error and waiting a year or more to correct it. Your scenario of waiting a few weeks for your refund before filing the amendment is completely reasonable.
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James Martinez
I had almost the identical situation last year, but I went ahead and e-filed the amendment right away before getting my refund. Big mistake! The original refund and the amount I owed from the amendment got caught in this weird processing limbo where they wouldn't offset each other automatically. I ended up with the IRS sending me the full original refund, then a separate bill for what I owed plus a small penalty because the system didn't recognize I was trying to fix my own mistake proactively. Took almost 6 months and multiple calls to straighten out.
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Olivia Harris
ā¢That's surprising, I thought the IRS computer systems would be smart enough to connect an amendment with the original return! Thanks for sharing - definitely reinforces the idea of waiting for the refund first.
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