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Don't stress OP, I didn't file my first tax return until I was 24! The good news is that if you've had taxes withheld from your paychecks (which you probably have), you're most likely owed money back. That's what a tax refund is. The easiest way to start is to use a free tax filing service like FreeTaxUSA or Cash App Taxes (used to be Credit Karma Tax). You literally just input the info from your W-2 forms and answer some basic questions. Grab those forms from your drawer and get started! For past years, you'll need to file separately for each year you missed. The tax software will have options for filing prior year returns.
Wait so I should use different software for the current year vs previous years? I'm trying to understand the process of catching up.
You can use the same software for all years, but you'll need to file each year separately. Most tax software has options for filing prior years. You'll just need to make sure you're using the correct forms for each tax year. When you start the process, you'll usually see an option like "File 2024 taxes" or "File for a previous year." You would need to go through the whole process once for each year (2022, 2023, 2024). Just make sure you have the W-2 forms for each corresponding year since the numbers will be different.
The normal deadline is April 15th each year for the previous year's taxes (so April 15, 2025 for your 2024 taxes). But if you're owed a refund, you actually have 3 years to file before you lose the money. So right now in 2025, you could still file for 2022, 2023, and 2024. If you owe money instead of getting a refund, then filing late can result in penalties. But since you're just starting out and probably don't make a ton of money, it's very likely you'll get refunds.
One thing to consider that hasn't been mentioned - while there's no AMT implication when exercising underwater ISOs, there could be benefits to this strategy beyond just starting your holding period clock. If your company does a new 409A valuation in the future and the price goes up, exercising at today's lower strike price could save you money compared to waiting. You're essentially locking in your purchase price now, betting on future growth. Also, some companies have exercise windows when you leave - exercising gradually while employed can reduce the cash needed at separation. And depending on your company's stage, early exercise might have qualified small business stock (QSBS) implications that could potentially exclude large amounts of gain from taxes later.
Can you explain more about the QSBS angle? I've heard it mentioned before but don't fully understand how it works with ISOs or if there are timing considerations.
QSBS (Qualified Small Business Stock) is a potentially huge tax benefit that allows you to exclude up to 100% of capital gains when you sell qualifying stock (up to $10M or 10x your basis, whichever is greater). For it to qualify, you need to: 1) Acquire stock directly from a C-Corporation with less than $50M in gross assets when issued 2) Hold the stock for at least 5 years 3) The company must be in an active qualifying business (most tech companies qualify, but some industries like hospitality or finance are excluded) With ISOs, the timing matters because QSBS status is determined when you exercise, not when you're granted options. So exercising early while the company is still small enough could secure QSBS treatment, even if it grows beyond $50M in assets later. This is a major reason some people exercise underwater options - the potential long-term tax benefit can far outweigh the immediate cost.
A word of caution from someone who's been through this: just because you CAN exercise underwater options without AMT doesn't mean you SHOULD. I did this at my previous startup believing in their future - paid about $45k to exercise options below strike price. The company never recovered and eventually shut down. That money was completely lost. No tax deduction, no nothing. It's considered a capital loss when you sell or when the shares become worthless, but capital losses are limited to $3k per year against ordinary income (unlimited against capital gains). So while the AMT advice here is correct, make sure you're making this decision with eyes wide open about the company's actual prospects, not just hope. Exercise only what you can afford to lose entirely.
Ouch, that's brutal. Did you at least get to carry forward the losses to future years? I thought capital losses could be carried forward indefinitely.
Origin-based taxation would create its own problems. If sales tax was based on origin, businesses would just relocate to states with no sales tax (like Oregon, Montana, etc.) to gain a competitive advantage. We'd see massive business migration to tax-friendly states while consumer states would lose significant revenue. This is actually why many countries use a VAT (Value Added Tax) system instead of sales tax. VAT tends to be more uniform across regions and easier to administer for international commerce. The real solution might be a simplified national sales tax system with consistent rules across states, but that would require federal intervention in what has traditionally been a state's right to determine their own tax policies.
That's a good point about businesses relocating. I hadn't considered that angle. Are there any states that actually do use origin-based sales tax for online sales? Or is destination-based pretty much the standard everywhere now?
Only a handful of states use origin-based sourcing, and they typically only do so for intrastate sales (sales within the state). Texas and Ohio have elements of origin-based sourcing for sales within their states, but they still use destination-based for interstate sales. For interstate commerce (selling across state lines), destination-based is now the standard across the US. The Streamlined Sales and Use Tax Agreement (SSUTA) that about half the states have joined is built around destination-based principles to create more uniformity. Unfortunately, major states like California, New York, and Texas haven't joined SSUTA, which is why we still have so much complexity.
Has anyone tried just ignoring sales tax compliance in states where you only have a few sales? What's the realistic chance of getting caught if you're a really small seller? I'm only doing about $50k in sales total across all states, with most sales in my home state.
I wouldn't recommend intentionally ignoring tax obligations, but realistically many states have enforcement thresholds. They're typically focusing audit resources on larger sellers. That said, the risk is that states can come after you for back taxes, penalties and interest years later if they do catch you.
One thing to check: make sure the "stock offset" amount is slightly LESS than the total RSU value on your wife's paystubs. The difference should roughly equal the taxes that were withheld when the RSUs vested. For example, if she had $10,000 worth of RSUs vest, and they withheld approximately $3,000 for taxes, the "stock offset" should be around $7,000. This would indicate they're accounting correctly - she got $10,000 in gross income from RSUs, $3,000 was withheld for taxes, and the remaining $7,000 worth of shares were deposited to her account. If the numbers don't line up this way, there might be a more complex situation happening with her equity compensation.
Oh that's a really helpful way to check! I'm going to look at the numbers again tonight. If I take her total RSU value that vested throughout the year and subtract the "stock offset" amount, that should roughly equal the taxes withheld on the RSUs. I'll see if that math works out. Thanks for the tip!
Glad that helps! One other thing to check is her brokerage account statements. The number of shares she actually received multiplied by the vesting price should roughly equal the "stock offset" amount. There might be some small discrepancies due to rounding or timing, but they should be close. Many companies also provide an equity compensation portal or statements that break down each RSU vest event with the price, shares sold for taxes, and net shares delivered. Comparing those statements with her paystubs can give you the complete picture of how everything is being reported.
Just a heads up that different payroll systems display RSU info differently. My company (Big Tech) shows the gross RSU value, taxes withheld, and net value all clearly separated, while my husband's company uses this confusing "stock offset" term just like your wife's does. My tax software (TurboTax Premier) actually has a specific section for RSU income that helped us make sense of all this. It walks you through entering the W2 info correctly and helps verify that the RSU income is properly accounted for. Might be worth using if you're not already.
Liam O'Connor
Another option is to use the IRS Free File Fillable Forms. It's completely free no matter what credits you qualify for. The downside is that it's basically like filling out paper forms but on a computer - there's minimal guidance. But if you're fairly comfortable with taxes and just need to claim the Retirement Savings Credit, it might be worth looking into.
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Amara Adeyemi
ā¢Does the IRS Free File Fillable Forms have any income limits? I make around $85k and often get locked out of the "free" options.
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Liam O'Connor
ā¢The Free File Fillable Forms have no income limits at all - they're available to everyone regardless of income. That's different from the IRS Free File Program partners (like TurboTax Free File, etc.) which typically have a $73,000 income limit. The trade-off is that Fillable Forms provide no guidance or calculations - you're basically just filling in digital versions of the paper forms. You need to know which forms to complete and how to do the calculations yourself. Form 8880 for the Retirement Savings Credit isn't terribly complicated though, especially if you're just claiming for yourself and spouse.
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Giovanni Gallo
Just so you know, the Retirement Savings Contributions Credit phases out at higher income levels. If you're married filing jointly, it starts phasing out at $43,500 and completely disappears at $73,000 (for 2023 taxes). For singles, it phases out between $21,750-$36,500. Are you sure you actually qualify? If you're right on the edge, maybe double-check your AGI calculation. You might not actually qualify for the credit, which would solve the problem entirely.
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Fatima Al-Mazrouei
ā¢The 2023 income limits are actually a bit higher now: $73,000 for married filing jointly and $36,500 for singles (full phase-out points). But yes, checking if you're truly eligible is important!
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