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I was in almost this exact situation last year with my ex. We were separated for 8 months but not legally divorced by year-end. My advice? Protect yourself first. We tried filing jointly because it saved him about $4,000, but then he never paid his portion of what we owed. Guess who the IRS came after for the entire amount? ME. Even though we had a written agreement about splitting the tax bill, the IRS doesn't care about that - they just want their money. If you do file jointly, make sure you get his portion of any tax due BEFORE you file. Don't trust promises to pay later. And know that if he has any issues like unreported income, back child support, or defaulted student loans, any joint refund could be seized to cover his debts. Filing separately might cost you both more in total taxes, but the peace of mind knowing you're only responsible for your own tax situation is worth it, especially during a separation that might turn contentious.

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GalaxyGlider

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Yikes, that's exactly what I'm worried about. He's suggesting we file jointly but says he can't pay me his portion until he gets his tax refund from a previous year that's still processing. Did you find that you lost a lot of tax benefits by filing separately? I'm worried about losing my education credits.

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That's a huge red flag! If he's waiting on a prior year refund, there's a good chance the IRS is holding it for some reason - maybe prior tax debt, child support, or other government debt. That refund he's counting on might never arrive or might be much smaller than he expects. I did lose some tax benefits filing separately. The biggest hits were lower thresholds for certain deductions and credits and losing the ability to contribute to a Roth IRA (my income was too high for separate filing but would have qualified under joint). However, my education credits actually worked out better filing separately because they have income limits that are easier to stay under with just my income. In your case, with a significant income difference and you being a student, filing separately might actually preserve more of your education credits. The American Opportunity Credit and Lifetime Learning Credit both start phasing out at lower combined income levels.

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Hey everyone, quick update from someone who's been through this - the TCJA (Tax Cuts and Jobs Act) changed some rules that affect this situation. If you file separately: 1. You both MUST either take the standard deduction OR both itemize - you can't mix and match anymore 2. If he claims any kids as dependents, you can't claim the Earned Income Credit even with your other kids 3. You'll have lower income thresholds for education credits, child tax credits, and retirement contribution deductions I'm not a CPA, but I found FreeTaxUSA let me toggle between filing statuses to compare before finalizing. It's way cheaper than TurboTax and showed me a side-by-side comparison of how each credit and deduction changed. In my case, filing jointly would have saved us about $3,200 combined, but I filed separately anyway because my ex had issues with unreported income that could have triggered an audit. Best $3,200 I ever "spent" to avoid that headache!

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This is super helpful! One more thing to add - if you file separately and your spouse itemizes deductions, you CANNOT claim the standard deduction. My ex itemized without telling me, and I had to redo my whole return. Also, the income threshold for education credits drops dramatically for married filing separately - I think it's around $10,000 for some credits, which might be below your income.

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What's worked well for me is a combination of digital and physical systems: Digital: I created a folder structure on Google Drive with subfolders for Income, Expenses (with subcategories like Medical, Business, etc), Investments, and Property. When I get digital documents, they go immediately into the right folder. Physical: I bought a desktop scanner (Brother ADS-1700W) that automatically scans to my Google Drive folders. When mail comes in, I immediately scan it and then file the physical copy in a simple accordion folder by month. The key is CONSISTENCY. I spend about 10 minutes each week maintaining this system rather than 10 panicked hours at tax time.

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Does the scanner you mentioned work well with receipts? I have a regular printer/scanner but it doesn't handle small receipts well and they always come out crooked or unreadable.

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The Brother scanner handles receipts extremely well! It has a dedicated receipt mode that adjusts the settings specifically for those narrow thermal paper receipts. Even faded receipts scan clearly, and it automatically straightens them. It also does batch scanning, so I can load a stack of different sized documents (receipts mixed with regular papers) and it processes them all correctly. The auto-feed feature is what makes it worth it for me - I just load everything in and walk away while it scans a stack of documents.

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Laila Prince

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Has anyone tried just taking pictures of receipts with their phone throughout the year? I'm thinking of just creating an album in my photos app for "2025 Tax Receipts" and snapping pics whenever I get something important. Would this be sufficient documentation if I ever got audited?

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Isabel Vega

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I do this and it works fairly well, but two important tips: 1) Make sure the entire receipt is visible and readable in the photo, and 2) Create separate albums for different categories (medical, business, donations, etc). Also, most smartphones timestamp photos which helps prove when the expense occurred. The IRS accepts digital copies of receipts as long as they're legible and show all the important information (date, vendor, amount, what was purchased). Just make sure you back up your photos somewhere in case your phone dies or gets lost!

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Laila Prince

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Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely create separate albums by category - that makes a lot of sense. I was worried about the IRS not accepting digital photos, so it's good to know they're valid as long as everything is readable. I'll start backing them up to my cloud storage just to be safe.

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I think everyone's missing something important here. When your friend got a mortgage, the bank 100% would have wanted to know where that down payment came from. They typically want to see bank statements showing the source of funds. If he just deposited crypto proceeds without explanation, the bank would have flagged this during underwriting. Either he lied to the mortgage company (which is mortgage fraud) or he disclosed it was crypto proceeds, in which case there's a paper trail the IRS could potentially follow. Banks file suspicious activity reports for large unexplained deposits.

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Ayla Kumar

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That's a really good point I hadn't considered. Do you think the mortgage company would report that information directly to the IRS though? Or would they only discover it if they specifically investigated him for some reason?

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Mortgage companies don't routinely report down payment sources directly to the IRS - that's not their job. However, they do file what's called a Mortgage Interest Statement (Form 1098) that shows the IRS your friend bought a property. If the IRS ever decides to audit your friend, they'd look at his income versus his expenses and assets. A $50K down payment that doesn't align with reported income would raise immediate questions. The IRS could then subpoena the mortgage application documents, which would reveal the source of funds. It's not about the mortgage company reporting him - it's about the paper trail created during the mortgage process that could be discovered during an audit. The bigger issue is your friend deliberately hiding taxable income, which has no statute of limitations for fraud.

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Xan Dae

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Your friend is playing a dangerous game called "audit roulette." Yes, the IRS is understaffed, but they've been massively increasing resources for crypto enforcement. I made a similar mistake in 2018 - sold about $30k of Bitcoin and didn't report it. Thought I was safe because I used a small exchange. Two years later, I got a CP2000 notice showing they knew exactly what I'd done. Had to pay the original tax plus 20% accuracy penalty and interest. The IRS is working with blockchain analytics companies to trace transactions. They can also see bank deposits that don't match reported income. The smart move is to file an amended return ASAP - coming forward voluntarily looks WAY better than getting caught.

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What was the small exchange you used? Was it US-based? I'm wondering if offshore exchanges report to the IRS too or if they're safer.

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Ava Garcia

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Former tax preparer here. The Saver's Credit confusion is super common. Here's a simple explanation: Let's say you'd normally owe $500 in taxes after all calculations. With the $406 Saver's Credit, you'd now only owe $94. If your withholding from paychecks was $745, your refund would be $745 - $94 = $651. Without the credit, your refund would be $745 - $500 = $245. So the credit is already baked into your $651 refund amount. Paying H&R Block $39 won't get you anything extra since you're already getting the credit. Also, check out FreeTaxUSA - they include the Saver's Credit form in their free version, and only charge like $15 for state filing.

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Miguel Silva

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But is the Saver's Credit refundable? Like if I had $0 tax liability could I still get the $406?

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Ava Garcia

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The Saver's Credit is non-refundable, which means it can only reduce your tax liability to zero, but not below zero. So if your tax liability was only $200 before credits, you'd only benefit from $200 of the $406 credit, not the full amount. This is different from refundable credits like the Earned Income Credit or Additional Child Tax Credit, which can give you money back even if you don't owe any tax.

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I'm doing my taxes with H&R Block free right now too. Where exactly did you see that Saver's Credit? I went through all the deductions and credits screens but don't see it mentioned anywhere. Did you have to do something special to trigger it?

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Make sure you told H&R Block about any retirement contributions you made (401k, IRA, etc.). The software won't show the Saver's Credit option unless you've entered qualifying contributions. It's usually in the "Deductions & Credits" section under "Retirement & Investments" or something similar.

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Have you thought about just ignoring what the calculator says and using the Multiple Jobs Worksheet included with the W4 form? I've found it to be more consistent than the online calculator. Since you're single with one job and take the standard deduction, it should be pretty straightforward to fill out. Also, be aware that the W4 changed dramatically a few years back - they eliminated allowances completely. If you haven't filled one out since your job 6 years ago, it's going to look very different.

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Yuki Tanaka

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I didn't even realize there was a worksheet! I'll definitely look into that option. And yeah, the new form looks completely different from what I remember filing years ago - the elimination of allowances really threw me off. Thanks for the pointer about the worksheet!

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Happy to help! The worksheet is actually on page 3 of the W4 form PDF from the IRS website. It's pretty user-friendly for simple situations like yours. Just be sure you're using the 2025 version of the form since they adjust the numbers slightly each year. Another tip: after you submit your W4, check your first couple of paystubs carefully to make sure the withholding looks reasonable. If it seems way off, you can always submit a new W4 to adjust. Most payroll systems let you update it anytime.

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PixelWarrior

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Am I the only one who just puts "0" for everything and gets a fat refund every year? I know it's like giving the government an interest-free loan but honestly it feels great getting that big chunk of money back in March. It's like forced savings for me lol.

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That's actually not how the new W4 works anymore. There's no place to put "0" since they eliminated allowances in 2020. The form is completely different now. You'd need to add an additional amount to be withheld on line 4(c) if you want extra withholding.

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