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Just wanted to add that you should be very careful with those tax relief companies that advertise on the radio. My brother paid one $4,500 upfront and they basically just put him on a payment plan he could have set up himself for free. Total ripoff. If you're considering an Offer in Compromise, know that the IRS has a pre-qualifier tool on their website where you can check if you might qualify before you even apply. It asks about your assets, income, expenses, etc. The IRS will only accept an offer if they believe it's the most they can reasonably collect from you.
What's the link to that pre-qualifier tool? I can't find it on the IRS site and their search function is terrible.
Here's the link to the IRS pre-qualifier tool: https://irs.treasury.gov/oic_pre_qualifier/. It's definitely not easy to find on their site! The tool walks you through a series of questions about your financial situation to help determine if an Offer in Compromise might be right for you. It's not a guarantee, but it's a good starting point before you invest time in the full application.
One thing nobody's mentioned is that if you do qualify for an Offer in Compromise, you MUST stay completely compliant with all tax filing and payment requirements for 5 years after acceptance. If you mess up and don't file on time or don't pay new taxes when due, the IRS can revoke the entire deal and reinstate the original debt. I learned this the hard way when I missed filing a quarterly estimated payment after my OIC was accepted. The IRS sent me a letter threatening to revoke the entire agreement. Had to scramble to get back into compliance.
Does that compliance requirement also apply to payment plans or just OICs?
Payment plans (installment agreements) also have compliance requirements, but they're typically not as strict as the 5-year requirement for an Offer in Compromise. With a payment plan, you generally need to file on time and pay on time while the agreement is in effect. If you default on a payment plan by missing payments or failing to file future returns, the IRS can terminate your agreement and may resume collection actions. They're sometimes willing to reinstate agreements if you quickly get back into compliance, but it's best not to test their patience.
21 One thing nobody's mentioned yet is that you need to be extremely careful about exclusive business use. If you use that new office space for ANYTHING personal (even occasionally), you could lose the entire deduction. I'd strongly recommend keeping a separate entrance to the office and maintaining a log of business activities conducted there. Take photos of the space showing it's set up only for business use. Also, be prepared for the possibility that adding this office will increase your property taxes, which might partially offset your income tax savings.
11 Does exclusive business use mean I can't ever let my kids do homework in there or have guests use it when they visit? What about if I occasionally take personal calls in the space? The IRS can't possibly monitor how I use every room, right?
21 The exclusive use requirement is quite strict. Your kids doing homework there, guests using the space, or taking personal calls would all technically violate the exclusive business use requirement. No, the IRS doesn't have cameras in your home, but if you're audited, they may ask detailed questions about how the space is used, request photographs, or even visit the location. They look for things like children's toys, guest beds, or other indicators of personal use. Many taxpayers have lost their entire home office deduction because they couldn't prove exclusive business use. It's not worth risking a potentially large deduction over occasional personal use, especially with a dedicated construction project specifically for business purposes.
16 Have you considered just renting an office instead? I was in a similar situation (K1 partnership income) and found that renting a small office was actually more tax-advantageous than building. The entire rent is deductible as a business expense, no depreciation complications, no recapture issues when selling your home, and no worries about exclusive use tests. Just a thought!
1 I did look into renting, but where I live, commercial space is ridiculously expensive. Even a tiny office would cost me about $3,000/month. The construction is around $42,000 total, so it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to renting. Plus, I love working from home and not having to commute. The depreciation and potential recapture issues are definitely something I need to consider though. I just want to make sure I'm taking advantage of all possible tax benefits since this will be 100% business use.
The financial aid office might be more flexible than you think. My daughter's school initially asked for a specific tax form we couldn't find, but when I called and explained the situation, they told me exactly what alternative documentation they would accept. It's worth reaching out to them directly instead of assuming what they'll require.
This is good advice. Financial aid offices deal with this kind of thing all the time. My son's college accepted a signed statement explaining why we couldn't provide the exact document they requested, along with the tax transcript showing the amended information.
Just want to clarify something important - for FAFSA purposes, a "Tax Return Transcript" isn't your best option. What you actually need is a "Record of Account Transcript" which combines the tax return transcript and the account transcript in one document. This is the only transcript type that will show both your original return info AND the changes made by the 1040X amendment. You can request this same way as mentioned above through the "Get Transcript" tool on IRS.gov - just make sure to select "Record of Account Transcript" specifically.
In my experience, paper filing really isn't that bad if you're not in a rush for a refund. I mailed my 2021 return last year (also filed late) and it took about 8 weeks to process. Just make sure you: 1. Make copies of EVERYTHING before sending 2. Use certified mail with tracking 3. If you owe money, pay it online right away using IRS Direct Pay regardless of how you file That said, if you can afford the $350 and want peace of mind faster, go the CPA route. If money is tight and you're not in a rush, paper filing is fine.
Thanks for the advice! One question - if I pay online now before filing, how do I make sure the payment gets matched to my return when I eventually mail it?
When you make a payment through the IRS Direct Pay system, you'll select the reason for payment (in your case "extension" or "tax return"), the tax year (2022), and provide your identifying information like SSN. The IRS will automatically match your payment to your return when it's processed based on this information. Make sure to print the confirmation page after making your payment and keep it with your tax records. If there's ever a question, this confirmation serves as proof that you paid on time, even if your return is processed later.
Has anyone tried the "Non-Filer" tool on the IRS website? My brother was in a similar situation with a past year return and said he used that instead of paying someone.
The Non-Filer tool is actually designed for people who aren't required to file a return but need to register for specific benefits or credits. It's not appropriate for someone who has a regular tax filing obligation like the OP who has already prepared their return. Using the Non-Filer tool when you actually should be filing a complete tax return can create complications in the IRS system and potentially flag your account. The OP should either mail their completed return or work with a tax professional to efile it.
Mateo Rodriguez
7 Everyone's talking about the registration fees, but don't forget about depreciation! If you used the car for business purposes at all during those 5 years and claimed depreciation deductions, you'll need to factor that into your basis calculation too. This is called "depreciation recapture" and it can significantly affect how much of your profit is taxable.
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Mateo Rodriguez
ā¢14 What if I didn't officially claim the car for business use but I did use it sometimes for side gig deliveries? Do I still need to worry about this depreciation thing?
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Mateo Rodriguez
ā¢7 If you never claimed the car as a business expense on your tax returns, then you don't have to worry about depreciation recapture. The concern only applies if you took actual tax deductions for business use of the vehicle in prior years. However, if you did use it for your side gig but never claimed the deductions you were entitled to, that's a different issue - you missed out on potential tax savings in previous years, but it won't affect how you report the sale now. You'd simply use your original purchase price as your basis (minus any depreciation you actually claimed on tax returns, which in your case sounds like zero).
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Mateo Rodriguez
2 Just wondering, is there a minimum profit amount before you have to report a car sale? I sold my old Honda for only $250 more than I paid for it after driving it for 3 years. Seems silly to have to report such a small gain.
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Mateo Rodriguez
ā¢11 Technically, all capital gains should be reported regardless of size. But in reality, the IRS has bigger fish to fry than a $250 gain on a personal vehicle. Most people don't even report personal vehicle sales unless they're significant gains.
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