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Don't forget to consider cost segregation! Instead of depreciating the entire building over 39 years, you can have a study done that breaks out components that can be depreciated over 5, 7, or 15 years. Things like carpet, fixtures, specialized electrical, etc. On a distressed property with major renovations, this can be HUGE for your early year tax benefits. We did this on a similar property and were able to depreciate almost 30% of the value over 5-7 years instead of 39. The study cost us about $12k but saved over $200k in taxes in the first 5 years.
I've heard about cost segregation but wasn't sure if it applied to smaller commercial properties. Mine is only about 15,000 sq ft. Is there a minimum size where it makes financial sense? Also, does the fact that I'm getting it significantly below market value affect how cost segregation would work?
There's no specific minimum size where cost segregation makes sense - it's more about the potential tax savings versus the cost of the study. For a 15,000 sq ft property, it's definitely worth considering, especially if you're doing significant renovations. The below-market purchase price doesn't negatively impact cost segregation benefits. In fact, it might actually make the percentage benefit greater. Cost segregation works on your actual basis in the property (purchase price plus improvements), so while your basis might be lower than market value, the percentage of that basis that can be accelerated might be higher due to the renovation component. When you're putting significant renovation dollars in, those improvements often contain many items that qualify for 5-7 year depreciation.
Just a heads up - make sure you check if your renovations qualify for any energy efficiency tax credits on top of the depreciation benefits. We installed new HVAC, lighting, and insulation in our commercial rehab last year and got almost $75k in additional tax credits (not just deductions). Worth looking into before you finalize your renovation plans!
I did something similar on my last building. Which specific energy credits did you claim? I used the 179D deduction but heard there were others that might stack.
Something nobody's mentioned yet - you could also just set aside money each paycheck in a separate savings account to cover the expected tax bill. That's what I do with my side gig. I automatically transfer 30% of each side job paycheck into a "tax savings" account so I'm not shocked at tax time. Sometimes it's just easier than messing with withholdings, especially if your second job has irregular income. Plus if you overestimate, you've got a nice little bonus after filing.
What's the advantage of doing this instead of just adjusting your W-4 though? It seems like you're giving up interest you could be earning on that money by essentially giving yourself a tax bill.
The main advantage is simplicity, especially if your second income fluctuates. When my side gig earnings vary month to month, it's easier to just save a percentage than constantly update withholdings. You're right about potentially earning interest, but with a high-yield savings account, I'm still earning something on that money until tax time. The peace of mind of knowing I've got the tax bill covered is worth more to me than the small amount of extra interest I might get. Plus, I can adjust my "savings rate" if I think I'm putting too much aside.
One thing that really helped me with my two jobs was using the IRS withholding calculator AND keeping track in a spreadsheet. I set up a simple sheet that tracks my YTD income and withholding from both jobs so I can spot potential problems early. I check it once a month when I get all my paystubs. If I notice withholding getting off track, I can adjust mid-year instead of finding out in April. Super helpful for peace of mind!
Any chance you'd be willing to share a template of that spreadsheet? I'm terrible at creating those from scratch but that sounds super useful.
I use a really simple system that works great for me. I have one credit card I ONLY use for tax-deductible purchases (business expenses, medical, charitable donations, etc). Then I have a Google Drive folder with subfolders for each deduction category. Whenever I get an email receipt, I forward it to the appropriate folder. For paper stuff, I take a quick pic with my phone and upload it there too. I also keep a simple spreadsheet with dates, amounts, and categories that I update about once a week. Takes like 5 minutes but saves hours of headaches at tax time. The key is making it super easy to maintain!
I like the dedicated credit card idea! Question though - how do you handle cash expenses? That's where I always mess up since there's no digital trail.
For cash expenses, I immediately take a photo of the receipt with my phone and add it to my digital system. I try to make this a habit right after making the purchase. If it's a business expense, I'll quickly note what it was for in my photo album so I don't forget the purpose later. I also keep a small zippered pouch in my car specifically for collecting any cash receipts I might get while out. Then once a week when I'm updating my spreadsheet, I go through that pouch, photograph anything I missed, and then file or discard the physical receipts. The key is having consistent touchpoints with your system rather than letting things pile up.
I just use TurboTax all year round honestly. They have a feature where you can upload and store documents throughout the year. Is anyone else using tax software as their actual organization system too? Works great for me because everything's already in the system when I file.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure your grandparents' bank account info is entered correctly in the payment plan. I had a situation where I transposed two digits in my account number, and it caused a "payment not honored" scenario which triggered penalties and a payment plan default. Double-check all those details before finalizing the filing! Also, remember that there's usually a setup fee for payment plans unless you're setting up a direct debit agreement. The fee is lower if you set everything up online vs. by phone or mail. I think it's around $31 for online setup with direct debit last time I checked.
Thanks for the heads up! I did double-check the bank details, but I'll verify them one more time. And yes, there was a fee that was added to the total balance. I opted for the direct debit option to keep things simple for my grandparents - they won't have to remember to make the payment each month.
Sounds like you've got it covered then! The direct debit option is definitely the way to go - not only is the setup fee lower, but it also ensures they won't accidentally miss a payment. One last tip: if your grandparents ever need to change the bank account information for the direct debits, do it at least 7-10 business days before the next scheduled payment to make sure it processes correctly.
Just an FYI - when you file through FreeTaxUSA or any other tax software, on the payment screen you can just select "I'll mail a check" or similar option. Then just don't mail a check. Your installment plan will take over and handle the payments. I do this every year since I'm always on a payment plan. The key is making sure that you've entered the EXACT same information on both systems. Same name spelling, same address format, etc. That helps the IRS computer systems match everything up correctly.
This is actually bad advice. You should select a payment option that indicates you're not paying with the return, but don't select "mail a check" if you're not going to mail one. There are specific options for "I'll pay directly to the IRS" or similar that are more appropriate and won't potentially flag your account for a missed check payment.
Landon Flounder
One important thing nobody mentioned - you need to track your gambling by SESSIONS, not just overall. The IRS considers each gambling session separately. So if you played blackjack on Monday and won $500, then played on Tuesday and lost $400, you have $500 in gambling income and $400 in losses (if you itemize). You can't just report the net $100 as your winnings. Also keep a "session log" with dates, locations (even if online), types of gambling, amounts won/lost per session. If you ever get audited, you'll need to show this detailed tracking.
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Laila Fury
β’Thanks for bringing this up! My tracking spreadsheet just has deposits and withdrawals with dates, but not broken down by actual playing sessions. If I play multiple times in one day, do I need to track each individual session or can I just track by day?
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Landon Flounder
β’Each distinct playing session should be tracked separately, even if they occur on the same day. The IRS considers a session to end when you stop playing a particular game for a significant period. For online gambling, a good rule of thumb is that if you log out or stop playing for several hours, that ends a session. If you play blackjack for an hour, take a break for several hours, then play again, those would be two separate sessions. Some tax professionals recommend documenting the start and end times of each online gambling session to make this clear. The more detailed your records, the better position you'll be in if questions ever come up.
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Callum Savage
Watch out with online gambling - friend of mine won about 8k last year on an offshore site and didn't report it thinking they wouldn't know. Got a letter from IRS this year asking about large deposits to his bank account that didn't match his reported income! They noticed when he transferred winnings to his bank. Don't mess around with this stuff.
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Ally Tailer
β’This is true! The IRS has reporting requirements for banks too. Any deposit over $10k gets automatically reported, and they also look for patterns of smaller deposits that might be trying to avoid that threshold. Plus with the new reporting for payment apps like Venmo and PayPal, there's a lot more visibility into money movement than people realize.
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