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I went through this exact situation last year! My attorney had been appealing for 4 years and I decided to take over. Here's what worked for me: 1) I waited until AFTER he completed that year's appeal and I paid him his portion. Clean break. 2) I sent a simple email: "Thank you for your services over the past years. I've decided to handle future property tax appeals myself going forward." 3) He actually responded with "No problem, good luck!" and that was it. The process itself wasn't complicated. I looked at the forms he had filed previously, gathered similar comparable properties, and submitted before the deadline. Saved myself over $1500 by keeping the full reduction. One tip - make sure you know your county's appeal deadline. I almost missed it the first year on my own because I didn't realize it was earlier than I thought.
Thanks for sharing your experience! That's encouraging to hear it went smoothly for you. Did your attorney try to argue that he was entitled to credit for teaching you the process or anything like that? I'm worried mine might try to claim I'm only able to do it myself because of his "expertise" he shared over the years.
Not at all! The agreement was for his services on a per-appeal basis, not for "teaching" me anything. It's like hiring a plumber - they don't get to claim a percentage of all future savings on your water bill just because you watched them fix your pipes. Property tax appeals are a standard process that anyone can learn. The forms and procedures are publicly available, and what constitutes a valid comparable property isn't some proprietary secret. Your attorney doesn't own the concept of property tax appeals. Just make sure you're not in the middle of an active appeal when you end things. Complete the current cycle, pay what you owe under your agreement, then notify him before the next cycle begins that you'll be handling it yourself going forward.
Just wondering - has anyone used one of those property tax appeal websites instead of doing it completely themselves? I'm in a similar situation with my tax attorney taking 50% but I'm worried about missing something if I do it all myself.
I used PropertyTaxLowerer.com last year and it was pretty good. Not free but WAY cheaper than giving up 50% to an attorney. They helped identify comps and filled out all the paperwork. I just had to sign and mail it.
For next year, you should definitely set up quarterly estimated tax payments for your 1099 income. I learned this the hard way too! The general rule is if you expect to owe more than $1,000 at tax time, you should be making quarterly payments to avoid penalties. Also, check your W4 forms at your jobs. If you have multiple income sources, you might need to have additional withholding from your paychecks. There's a section on the W4 where you can specify an extra amount to withhold per paycheck.
Thank you for this advice! I definitely need to fix this for next year. How do I calculate how much to pay for quarterly estimated taxes? And where exactly on the W4 do I add extra withholding?
For estimated quarterly taxes, you can use the worksheet that comes with Form 1040-ES. Basically, you estimate your total tax liability for the year and divide by four. Pay special attention to your 1099 income - you generally need to set aside about 30-35% of that for taxes (15.3% for self-employment tax plus your income tax rate). For the W4, look at Step 4(c) "Extra withholding." You can put any additional amount you want withheld from each paycheck. If you have multiple W2 jobs, there's also a "Multiple Jobs Worksheet" that can help calculate this more precisely. Your HR department should be able to provide you with a new W4 form to update this information.
Has anyone had luck amending a return after filing? I just realized I missed some deductions after I already submitted, and now I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle to amend.
Just to add a bit more info for anyone reading - there's also Form 3921 which your employer should have provided to you for the ISO exercise. This form shows the exercise date, FMV, and exercise price, which is crucial information for your records. Make sure you keep this form forever! Also, when you eventually sell these shares, you'll potentially get an AMT credit back for any AMT you paid due to the exercise. It's called the AMT credit carryforward and is reported on Form 8801 in future years. This is often forgotten and people end up overpaying their taxes when they sell.
Is Form 3921 the same as the exercise confirmation that the company provides? My company gave me some PDF after I exercised but I'm not sure if that's the official form or if I should be looking for something else.
No, they're different documents. The exercise confirmation is generated by your company's equity management system when you complete the exercise transaction. Form 3921 is an official IRS form that employers are required to provide for ISO exercises. It should be titled "Exercise of an Incentive Stock Option Under Section 422(b)" at the top. If you haven't received Form 3921 by late January/early February, definitely ask your HR or stock administration team about it. Sometimes companies are late sending these out, but they're required to provide it for each ISO exercise transaction. The information on this form is what the IRS will use to verify your reporting, so it's crucial to have.
Don't forget that if your ISO exercise triggers AMT, you'll be paying tax now on shares you haven't sold yet, which means you need actual cash to pay the tax bill. This caught me off guard last year. If your exercise was substantial, you might want to consider selling just enough shares to cover any potential AMT liability. Yes, those specific shares would be a disqualifying disposition and subject to ordinary income tax, but it might be better than scrambling for cash when your tax bill comes due.
This is honestly the most underrated comment here. I got absolutely destroyed by AMT on my ISOs because I exercised about $200k worth of options (difference between FMV and strike) and ended up with a $55k tax bill with no cash to pay it. Had to sell some of my precious shares at a really bad time in the market just to cover the taxes.
Exactly - it's what financial advisors call the "phantom income" problem with ISOs. You're taxed on money you haven't actually received yet. For anyone reading this who's planning a large ISO exercise, consider doing a "cashless exercise and hold" for a small portion of your options. This means you exercise and immediately sell just enough shares to cover your potential tax liability, then hold the rest for long-term capital gains treatment. Yes, the shares you sell will be taxed at ordinary income rates, but it creates the cash to pay the AMT on the shares you're holding. Always better to plan ahead than be forced to sell at an inopportune time.
One thing to consider with itemizing is state taxes too. Even if the federal standard deduction makes more sense, some states have much lower standard deduction amounts, so you might itemize on your state return while taking the standard deduction federally. But you mentioned Florida - there's no state income tax there, so that's not a consideration for you. That's actually another reason fewer Floridians itemize compared to high-tax states like California or New York.
That's a good point! I hadn't even thought about the state tax angle. So I guess that's one benefit of living in Florida for tax purposes - not having to worry about an additional state tax return. Do most tax software programs automatically figure out whether you should itemize or take the standard deduction?
Most decent tax software will compare your potential itemized deductions against the standard deduction and recommend whichever gives you the better outcome. They'll run the calculations both ways and show you the difference. The better programs will also alert you if you're close to the threshold and might suggest ways to maximize deductions. Just be careful with the free versions of tax software - they sometimes don't include Schedule A (itemized deductions) and try to upsell you when you need it.
Just my two cents - remember that taking the standard deduction vs itemizing isn't a permanent choice. You can switch back and forth each year depending on what makes sense. Some years we itemize, others we take standard. One strategy my accountant suggested was "bunching" deductions. For example, if we're close to the threshold, we might make two years worth of charitable contributions in a single tax year to push us over the line for itemizing. Then the next year we make minimal donations and take the standard deduction. Over two years, we get more total deductions this way.
Julia Hall
One thing nobody has mentioned - if you've been paying property taxes on this land since 2007, make sure you include those as part of your basis! They're considered carrying costs that can be added to your basis, reducing any potential gain. Also, don't forget to deduct any selling expenses like real estate commissions, legal fees, transfer taxes, etc. from the sales price before calculating your gain or loss. These little things add up and can make a big difference in what you ultimately owe!
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Arjun Patel
ā¢This is incorrect information. Property taxes cannot be added to your basis for inherited property. They're either deductible in the year paid (if you itemize) or not deductible at all. Only capital improvements can be added to basis.
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Jade Lopez
From what you described, this sounds like vacant land with just a shed - so I'm assuming you never made any significant improvements to the property between 2007-2024? If you did make any improvements (not just repairs, but actual improvements), those costs get added to your basis. For example, if you installed a well, added utilities, built any structures, cleared land, added roads or driveways - all of those would increase your basis and reduce any potential gain. Just something to consider if you did any work on the property during your ownership.
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