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You might just need to enter your prior year Roth IRA basis somewhere in the software. In H&R Block, go to the "Retirement and Investments" section, then "IRA, 401(k), or Other Retirement Plans" and look for a question about "prior Roth contributions" or "Roth IRA basis." Enter the total amount you've contributed to your Roth IRA in all previous years combined (not including 2024 contributions).
Where exactly in H&R Block do you find this? I'm looking at that section right now and I don't see anything specific about "prior Roth contributions." Is it hidden in some submenu?
It's a bit buried in the interface. After you get to the "IRA, 401(k), or Other Retirement Plans" section, you need to click on the specific Roth IRA contribution entry. Then there should be an "Advanced" or "Additional Information" button or link. Click that and you'll see additional fields, including one for your previous years' contributions or basis amount. If you're using the desktop version rather than the online version, the navigation might be slightly different, but the concept is the same - look for an advanced or additional info section related to your Roth IRA entries.
Something similar happened to me - the warning is likely just telling you that you should know your basis for future reference. For most people with Roth IRAs who haven't made withdrawals, it doesn't actually affect your tax return. H&R Block is just being extra cautious.
I've been using TaxAct for years and have never seen any warning about Roth IRA basis. I wonder if this is just an H&R Block thing or if I've been missing something important all along?
With $405k income, I'd definitely get an accountant. I'm in a similar bracket and switched from TurboTax 3 years ago. My accountant found nearly $8k in tax savings my first year! Mostly through more aggressive but legitimate deductions and some restructuring of my investments. The key is finding someone who specializes in high-income professionals rather than just a general tax preparer.
That's impressive savings! Do you mind sharing what kinds of deductions they found that TurboTax missed? And approximately what you pay your accountant?
The biggest win was identifying that some of my investment advisory fees were deductible in a way I hadn't been taking advantage of. Also found some home office deductions related to my W-2 job during 2020-2021 that I qualified for but didn't know about. I pay about $850 annually for tax preparation and filing. But the real value comes from quarterly check-ins for tax planning - we make adjustments throughout the year instead of just at tax time. This costs about $1200 more annually, but the savings and peace of mind are worth it.
Unpopular opinion maybe but I make around $350k and still use TurboTax. Tried an accountant for two years and they literally saved me nothing beyond what I was already doing myself. Tax software has gotten really good. Unless you have a business, rental properties, or some complex situations, I don't see much benefit for W-2 employees even at higher incomes.
Agree 100%. I'm at $380k, all W-2 and investments like OP, and my accountant basically told me after 2 years that I didn't need him! Said TurboTax would do fine for my situation lol. Respectable honesty I guess?
Glad to hear I'm not alone! I appreciate the accountant who admits when they're not adding enough value. Most retirement accounts are pretty straightforward max contributions, and standard investment stuff isn't that complex. I think where accountants shine is with business ownership, real estate, or unusual situations like foreign income. For regular employees, even high-income ones, tax software covers most bases pretty effectively.
If your CP2000 involves investment income, make sure you're double-checking your 1099-Bs against what you reported! I got hit with a similar notice because my brokerage sent an updated 1099-B after I filed, and I had no idea. The IRS sees the newer version but you filed with the old numbers. Also, if they're partially right (like you mentioned you did mess something up), consider just paying the correct portion while contesting the incorrect part. That can show good faith and sometimes helps get things resolved faster.
That's actually exactly what's happening - it's investment income from a stock sale. How did you prove to them that you did report it correctly? Did you have to send in a specific form or just explain it in the response letter?
I sent them a copy of the original 1099-B I received (the one I used when filing), along with my Schedule D and Form 8949 that showed I had reported the transactions. Then I explained in my response letter exactly which line items were being questioned and where they could find those exact amounts on my return. The key was being super specific and making it extremely easy for them to verify what I was saying. I literally wrote things like "The $12,345 amount referenced in paragraph 2 of your notice can be found on line 3 of my Schedule D, which matches line 1 of Form 8949 as shown on the attached documents." I basically created a roadmap that connected their questions directly to my filing documentation. That approach worked well because it minimized the work they had to do to verify my explanation.
whatever you do DONT hire those tax resolution companies you see advertising on TV!! my brother paid one $3000 to handle his cp2000 and they literally just filed the same response he could have done himself. total ripoff
100% agree! Those companies are predatory. My colleague went with one of the big national firms and paid $2,500 for them to basically fill out a form response. The commercials make it sound like they have some special relationship with the IRS but they absolutely don't. If you do need professional help, look for a local CPA or Enrolled Agent who specializes in tax controversy. They'll charge a reasonable hourly rate instead of those massive upfront fees, and you'll get personalized help from someone who actually looks at your specific situation.
Thanks for the warning! I actually got a call from one of those companies right after I got my letter (no idea how they knew?) and they wanted $2,800 upfront. Felt super sketchy so I didn't go with them. Good to know my instincts were right!
As someone who prepares taxes professionally, I'd add that you might also qualify for the Earned Income Tax Credit even with self-employment income, depending on your total income and other factors. This could potentially offset some of what you owe. Also important to note: if you genuinely never received a 1099 form, the delivery company might not have reported your income to the IRS (though they should have if it was over $600). This doesn't excuse you from filing, but it might mean the IRS hasn't flagged your account yet for non-filing.
Thanks for mentioning this! I definitely made under $10k for the year, so maybe I'd qualify for that credit? And you're right - I never got any forms from the company, so maybe they didn't report it. Would that make my penalties less severe?
You should definitely check if you qualify for the EITC. For 2023, a single filer with no children could qualify with income up to about $17,640, so you're well within that range. This could potentially give you a refundable credit of several hundred dollars. Regarding the unreported income, it's a double-edged sword. If they didn't report it, the IRS might not know you were supposed to file, which means they haven't been actively pursuing you for non-filing. However, you're still legally obligated to report all income regardless of whether you received a 1099. The safest approach is always to file and report everything accurately, even if it's late.
One thing nobody mentioned - if you do your delivery driving in a state with income tax, you'll need to file a state return too! I made this mistake and only filed federal after missing my taxes, then got a separate notice from my state tax agency for non-filing.
Definitely good to know. I'm in Texas so I think we don't have state income tax, but I'll double check to make sure I'm not missing anything else!
Leo Simmons
Something nobody mentioned yet - have you considered just reducing your MAGI to stay under the limit? Max out your 401k if you haven't already ($23,000 for 2024), contribute to an HSA if eligible ($4,150 individual), or look into if your employer offers any other pre-tax benefits like dependent care FSA, commuter benefits, etc. Might be easier than dealing with withdrawals and recalculations if you're close to the threshold. I was in a similar situation last year and managed to drop my MAGI just enough by maxing these pre-tax options.
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Felix Grigori
ā¢That's a great point I hadn't considered! My company does offer a 401k that I'm not fully maxing out yet. I'm putting in about 10% of my salary but could definitely increase that. We also have an HSA option I haven't been using. Would increasing 401k contributions now still help reduce my MAGI for the whole year, even though we're partway through 2024?
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Leo Simmons
ā¢Yes, increasing your 401k contributions now will still help reduce your 2024 MAGI, even though we're partway through the year. Your MAGI calculation only looks at your total contributions for the year, not when during the year they were made. If you significantly increase your contribution percentage for the remaining months, you can make up for the lower contribution rate from earlier in the year. The HSA is another great option if you have a qualifying high-deductible health plan. The $4,150 contribution limit (for individual coverage) for 2024 comes straight off your MAGI calculation. Between maxing out your 401k and adding an HSA, you could potentially reduce your MAGI by enough to stay within the Roth contribution limits, avoiding the need to withdraw anything.
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Lindsey Fry
I think there's some confusion in this thread. The 5-year rule for Roth IRAs has TWO different applications: 1. For CONTRIBUTIONS: You can withdraw your contributions anytime without penalty regardless of the 5-year rule. 2. For CONVERSIONS and EARNINGS: The 5-year rule applies here. Each conversion has its own 5-year clock, and earnings require both 5 years AND being 59.5 years old to avoid penalties. In your case, since you're only withdrawing contributions, the 5-year rule doesn't matter at all. The app warning is just a generic message they show everyone. Also - if you're close to the income limit, consider contributing to a Traditional IRA and then doing a Backdoor Roth conversion rather than dealing with partial contribution calculations.
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Saleem Vaziri
ā¢Thanks for clarifying the 5-year rule! One question though - if OP does the backdoor Roth conversion, doesn't that start a NEW 5-year clock for those converted funds? I'm trying to understand if there's any disadvantage to the backdoor approach versus direct contributions if you might need access to the money before 59.5.
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