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mine took 11 weeks but I had to verify both identity AND income. depends what they're asking you to verify tbh

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NeonNomad

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I went through this exact same process last year! For me, it took about 10 weeks total from when I submitted everything through ID.me. The key thing is making sure you uploaded ALL the documents they requested - I made the mistake of only uploading my W-2 initially and had to resubmit with my bank statements too, which reset the clock. Also, don't rely on Where's My Refund for updates - it barely changes. Your transcript will show movement first with cycle dates and processing codes. Stay patient, it's frustrating but they do eventually get through it!

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Thanks for sharing your experience! 10 weeks is rough but good to know about the documents thing - I think I uploaded everything but now I'm second-guessing myself šŸ˜… Did you get any confirmation that they received your resubmission or did you just have to wait and hope?

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Here's what happens after verification based on my research: 1. Your verification status is updated in the IRS internal system (1-3 days) 2. Your return is released from the verification hold (3-5 days) 3. Normal processing resumes where it left off (varies) 4. WMR updates (usually after transcript) 5. Transcript codes update to show processing status The most reliable indicator is checking for code 570 (hold) being replaced by 571 (hold released) on your account transcript.

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Anita George

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The timeline can definitely vary, but based on what I've seen in the community, you're looking at roughly 2-3 weeks after verification for things to start moving again. The key thing to remember is that verification just removes the hold - your return then goes back into the regular processing queue where it left off. Since you just verified yesterday, I'd give it at least a week before expecting any transcript changes. The WMR tool is notoriously slow to update compared to transcripts, so focus on checking your account transcript (not return transcript) for codes 570/571 as Andre mentioned above. For your Q2 investment planning, I'd personally budget for at least 3-4 weeks total from your verification date to be safe, though it could be sooner.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation where I verified my identity about 10 days ago and have been anxiously checking my transcript daily. Based on what you and Andre mentioned about the 570/571 codes, I just checked my account transcript and I'm still showing code 570. Should I be concerned that it's been over a week, or is this still within the normal timeframe? Also, when you mention focusing on the account transcript vs return transcript, is there a specific reason the account transcript updates faster with these processing codes?

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Has anyone had success with IRS tax relief advocates to stop levies?

We just got that dreaded letter from the IRS saying they're considering levying our bank accounts and income. I panicked and called one of those Tax Relief Advocate companies from a 1-800 number. They charged us $695 for a consultation where they basically told me I owe around $31,000 in back taxes but claimed they could reduce it to roughly $3-4,000. Our situation: I haven't filed for 2012-2014, and I also owe for 2022 and 2023. The TRA company said years 2015-2017 have been "wiped out" somehow (they were vague about how this happened), and we don't owe for those years. Our tax situation is actually pretty straightforward. Now they want $4,800 upfront today, promising they'll work to get the debt reduced within 9-18 months. I'm really hesitant about paying this because I'd have to borrow from family. My biggest questions: - I was audited in 2015. Will the 10-year collection statute on the older taxes (2012-2014) expire in 2025? - Has anyone actually had success with these tax relief companies? - Are they telling the truth that their $695 fee is refundable? A friend told me I basically flushed that money away. When my husband called them back about the $4,800, they outlined their "game plan": file our missing returns, request first-time abatement, use the financial hardship protection, then try for an Offer in Compromise (OIC). They said we'd likely get rejected the first time but they know how to "negotiate with the IRS." Once accepted, we'd pay 20% down, but they'd cover half of that, so we'd only pay 10%. They also claim they'll file this year's taxes (even if we owe), and do tax planning to ensure we don't owe in the future by adjusting our withholding. They estimate resolving everything within 18 months. I've been doing more research, and I'm wondering if I could handle the filing myself. Especially if those older years will "roll off" after 10 years. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm worried they'll just keep asking for more money beyond the $4,800.

One thing nobody has mentioned yet - beware of the "Currently Not Collectible" status these companies often push. It might sound great (the IRS agrees not to collect from you temporarily), but the 10-year clock keeps running AND interest and penalties keep accumulating! Sometimes it makes more sense to set up even a small payment plan to start chipping away at the debt. For 2012-2014, if you haven't filed yet, file ASAP. The assessment date (which starts the 10-year clock) begins when you file and the IRS processes your return. So those years aren't even on the clock yet. I'd recommend calling the IRS Taxpayer Advocate Service. They're independent from the IRS collection division and can give you free guidance. Their number is 877-777-4778.

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I tried calling the Taxpayer Advocate Service and was told they have a 6-8 week backlog for new cases unless you're literally about to be evicted or have your utilities shut off. Did you have better luck getting through to them?

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I'm dealing with a similar situation right now - owe about $28,000 for 2020-2022 and just got the levy notice last week. Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful, especially learning about the 10-year rule and how it actually works. I called one of those tax relief companies too and they wanted $3,200 upfront after a $500 "consultation fee." After reading everyone's experiences here, I'm definitely not going that route. Question for those who've been through this - how urgent is it really to act on the levy notice? Mine says "Final Notice - Intent to Levy" and gives me 30 days. I'm trying to decide between finding a local EA or attempting to call the IRS directly. The idea of waiting hours on hold is daunting, but the Claimyr service mentioned above sounds interesting if it actually works. Also, has anyone here actually had their bank account levied? I'm terrified they'll clean out my checking account before I can get this sorted out. We have about $3,000 in there which is basically our rent and grocery money for the month. Thanks everyone for sharing your real experiences - it's so much more helpful than the scary marketing from these tax relief companies.

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Amina Diop

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The Final Notice - Intent to Levy is serious, but you do have that 30-day window to act. Don't panic, but don't wait until the last minute either. During those 30 days, the IRS cannot proceed with the levy, so you have time to get things sorted. I'd recommend trying to contact the IRS directly first - either through traditional calling (yes, the wait times are brutal) or using one of those callback services others mentioned. If you can get through, ask for an immediate hold on collection activities while you work out a payment plan. This buys you more time and stops the levy process. Bank levies do happen, but usually the IRS will start with income/wage garnishments first since they're easier to process. Still, protect that $3,000 by acting within your 30-day window. A few quick steps you can take right now: 1. Gather all your tax documents and financial information 2. Calculate what you can realistically pay monthly 3. Consider requesting an installment agreement online through IRS.gov if your situation is straightforward 4. If it's complex, find a local EA but don't pay the huge upfront fees these national companies want You've got this - just don't let the fear paralyze you into inaction during your 30-day window.

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Ellie Lopez

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Can I piggyback on this question with a related margin interest issue? If I use margin to buy both stocks and options, but only sell the options for a profit while keeping the stocks, can I deduct all the margin interest? Or only the portion related to the options I sold?

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Lily Young

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You can deduct all your margin interest up to the amount of your total investment income, regardless of which specific securities you sold. The IRS doesn't require you to match interest expenses to specific securities or transactions. So if your options trading generated sufficient investment income to cover all your margin interest for the year (from both stocks and options), you can deduct the full amount of interest. Just make sure to complete Form 4952 correctly to calculate your allowable deduction.

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Nia Williams

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Just wanted to add a practical tip from my experience with a similar situation. When you're preparing your taxes, make sure you have good documentation of all your margin interest payments throughout the year. Your brokerage should provide this on your 1099-INT or in your monthly statements, but it's worth double-checking the totals. Also, keep in mind that if you have multiple brokerage accounts, you'll need to aggregate all your investment income and all your investment interest expenses across all accounts when completing Form 4952. The IRS looks at your total investment picture, not account by account. One more thing - if you're planning to continue using margin in future years, consider keeping a spreadsheet to track your margin interest payments monthly. This makes tax prep much easier and helps you project whether you'll have enough investment income to fully deduct the interest each year.

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Just wanted to mention that you can actually e-file past year returns using some tax software, which is WAY easier than paper filing. I used FreeTaxUSA for my 2020 return when I filed in late 2023. They charge like $20 for past year returns but it was totally worth it to avoid the paper forms nightmare.

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I thought you could only e-file current year returns? Every time I've tried to do old returns the software always makes me print and mail them in.

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Yara Elias

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@Malik Thompson is right - FreeTaxUSA does allow e-filing for prior years, but there are some limitations. You can typically e-file returns from the current year and the previous 3-4 years depending on the software. For 2020 returns filed in 2025, you might be past the e-file window for that specific year, but it s'worth checking since different software providers have different cutoff dates. TurboTax and H&R Block also offer prior year e-filing for a fee, usually around $50-80 per return.

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Zoe Walker

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I'm going through a very similar situation right now with my 2020 taxes! Lost my job in March 2020 and honestly just couldn't deal with paperwork for the longest time. I finally gathered all my documents last month and realized I might actually owe money despite having taxes withheld from my W-2. One thing that really helped me was calling the IRS Taxpayer Advocate Service (TAS) - they're a separate division that helps people with complex tax problems for free. They don't file your return for you, but they can explain your options and help you understand what penalties you might face. The number is 1-877-777-4778. They were way more patient and helpful than trying to navigate the regular IRS phone system. Also, don't panic about the penalties if you do owe. The failure-to-file penalty stops accruing after 5 months, so it maxes out at 25% of what you owe. The failure-to-pay penalty continues but it's only 0.5% per month. Still not great, but not as scary as it sounds when people say "penalties keep growing forever.

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Thanks for sharing that TAS number! I've been putting this off for so long partly because I was terrified of dealing with the IRS directly. Knowing there's a separate service that's actually designed to help people like us is really reassuring. Did they give you specific guidance on how to calculate what you might owe, or did they mainly just explain the process? I'm still trying to figure out if my freelance expenses might offset some of that 1099 income before I panic about the penalties.

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