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Something no one has mentioned yet - have you considered a Partial Pay Installment Agreement (PPIA)? With your level of debt and equity situation, this might be your best option. A PPIA lets you make monthly payments based on what you can afford after necessary living expenses. The key difference from a regular installment agreement is that you might not pay the full amount before the collection statute expires (usually 10 years from assessment). I went through this process myself, and while it's not easy, it can significantly reduce what you ultimately pay. You'll need to provide detailed financial statements (Form 433-A or 433-F) and the IRS will review your finances every 2 years to see if your payment should increase.
I hadn't heard of a PPIA before - that sounds like it might be a good option for my situation. Does the 10-year collection statute still apply even with the large amount I owe? And what happens during those financial reviews every 2 years?
Yes, the 10-year collection statute of limitations applies regardless of the amount owed, though be careful because certain actions can extend that period. The clock starts from the date the tax was assessed, not from when you enter into the agreement. During the biennial financial reviews, the IRS will request updated financial information to determine if your financial situation has improved. If you're making substantially more money or have acquired significant assets, they may increase your monthly payment amount. Conversely, if your situation has worsened, you might qualify for a lower payment. This is why documentation of your expenses and financial situation is crucial throughout the process.
Has anybody mentioned bankruptcy? I know it sounds extreme, but with that level of tax debt, it might be worth consulting with a bankruptcy attorney who specializes in tax issues. While not all tax debts can be discharged in bankruptcy, some can if they meet certain criteria (generally, income taxes over 3 years old where returns were filed at least 2 years ago). Even if the taxes can't be discharged, a Chapter 13 bankruptcy might help structure a payment plan that takes into account your other debts and financial obligations.
This is actually a really important point. Tax debt that's more than 3 years old CAN be dischargeable in bankruptcy under certain conditions. I consulted with a bankruptcy attorney for my own tax issues and while I ended up not filing, the consultation alone gave me leverage in negotiating with the IRS because I understood my options better.
Something important that hasn't been mentioned yet - if you go the W2 route (which you absolutely should), you'll also be eligible for unemployment benefits if your position ends. 1099 contractors don't get that protection. Also, regarding state taxes - since you're working in Colorado but are a Wisconsin resident, you'll need to file in both states. Colorado will tax the income you earn there, but Wisconsin will likely give you credit for taxes paid to Colorado so you're not double-taxed on the same income.
That's a really good point about unemployment. Do you know if I need to do anything special for the state tax situation? Like should I be filling out any specific forms now, or is that just something I handle when filing next year?
For the state tax situation, you don't need to do anything special right now other than making sure your employer knows you're a Wisconsin resident. When they set up your payroll, they should withhold Colorado state taxes since that's where you're working. When tax filing time comes, you'll file a resident return for Wisconsin (reporting all your income from all states) and a non-resident return for Colorado (reporting only the income earned in Colorado). Wisconsin will give you a credit for taxes paid to Colorado to avoid double taxation. Each state has different forms for this, but any decent tax software will walk you through it.
I'm curious why you're not considered a resident of Colorado if you're living there? Usually state residency is determined by where you actually live and work for most of the year, not where you're originally from.
Not OP but I've dealt with this. You can maintain residency in one state while working temporarily in another. Maybe OP still has their permanent address, driver's license, voter registration, etc. in Wisconsin but is working in Colorado for a limited time. Residency definitions vary by state, but usually involve where you intend to make your permanent home.
For future reference, there's an option on the W4 form specifically for this situation. In Step 2, you can check box c for "Multiple jobs or spouse works" which helps adjust your withholding. For even more accuracy, you can use the multiple jobs worksheet. I'd also recommend checking your withholding at least once midyear using the IRS Withholding Calculator: https://www.irs.gov/individuals/tax-withholding-estimator That way you can catch these issues before tax time and adjust as needed!
Thank you! I've already updated both my W4 forms for this year, but I'll definitely use that calculator to double-check everything. Is it normal to owe this much though? I'm still shocked at how big the difference was.
Yes, unfortunately the amount you owe is pretty typical for this situation. When you add a second job with similar income, you're essentially doubling your income but your withholding isn't doubling the tax paid because each employer is calculating withholding based on their portion only. For example, if you make $80K at one job, you might be withheld at an effective rate of about 12-15%. But when your total income is $160K, portions of that income are taxed at 22% or 24% brackets. That difference between what was withheld (at lower rates) and what you actually owe (at higher rates) is where that $5K+ bill comes from.
I'm surprised nobody mentioned this, but you should also check if you qualify for any tax credits or deductions that might offset some of what you owe. Did you have any education expenses during the year? Student loan interest? Making retirement contributions? Health insurance through the marketplace?
This is good advice. Also, make sure you're taking the standard deduction at a minimum ($12,950 for single filers for 2022). And if you made any charitable contributions or had work-related expenses that weren't reimbursed, those might help too.
Thanks for bringing this up! I do have some student loan interest from when payments were still required, and I contributed to my 401k at both jobs. I'll definitely look into those deductions. Do you think it could significantly reduce what I owe?
You definitely overpaid! I've been running my dog walking LLC for 3 years and I pay $475 to my accountant. She handles everything - my quarterly estimated payments, all deductions, vehicle expenses, home office, the works! I'm in a similar situation with mixed income sources. Try looking for a smaller local accounting firm rather than a big name place. The personal attention is better and rates are lower.
Wow, $475 is so much more reasonable! Do you have any tips for finding someone good at that price point? Did you just Google local accountants or was it word of mouth? I'm definitely going to shop around this year.
I found my accountant through a local small business networking group in my area. Word of mouth referrals are gold for finding good accountants at reasonable rates. Check if there's a Chamber of Commerce small business group or even Facebook groups for local business owners in your area - then ask for recommendations. When interviewing potential accountants, ask specifically about their experience with pet service businesses or similar industries. Mine already had several dog walkers and pet sitters as clients, so she knew exactly which deductions to look for. Also ask about their communication style and availability throughout the year, not just at tax time.
Can we talk tax software options? I use TurboTax Home & Business for my photography LLC. Costs around $170 for federal and state. Takes me about 4 hours to input everything but saves me hundreds in accountant fees. Anyone else DIY their taxes with an LLC?
Maggie Martinez
I think everyone is overlooking something important here - depending on what type of disability insurance this was, it might not even be fully taxable! If you paid the premiums with after-tax dollars, then the benefits aren't taxable. If your employer paid the premiums or if you paid with pre-tax dollars, then the benefits are taxable. You should check your policy details and previous paystubs (if it was through work) to determine this. This could make a HUGE difference in what you actually owe.
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Selena Bautista
ā¢Thanks for pointing this out! I'm not sure how my policy works tax-wise. It was through my employer but I think I did pay some portion of the premiums each month before I went on disability. How would I figure out if I paid with pre-tax or after-tax dollars?
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Maggie Martinez
ā¢You can determine this by looking at your last paystub before going on disability. Look for the disability insurance premium deduction and check if it's listed under pre-tax or post-tax deductions. If you don't have your paystubs, contact your HR department or benefits administrator - they can tell you exactly how your premiums were structured. If you paid even a portion of the premiums with after-tax dollars, then a corresponding percentage of your benefits would be non-taxable. For example, if you paid 40% of the premium with after-tax money, then 40% of your benefits would be tax-free.
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Alejandro Castro
Has the insurance company sent you a 1099 form for the disability payments? That would show the taxable amount they're reporting to the IRS, which is important to know before you start worrying about penalties.
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Selena Bautista
ā¢They sent me a 1099-R that shows the full amount in Box 1, and it looks like it has a code in Box 7. Not sure what that means though.
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Monique Byrd
ā¢The code in Box 7 of your 1099-R is super important! It tells you how the distribution is being characterized. For disability payments: Code 3 typically means disability payments before minimum retirement age - these are usually taxed as regular income. Code 7 is for normal distributions, sometimes used for disability after reaching minimum retirement age. If there's a value in Box 5 (Employee Contributions/Designated Roth Contributions), that's the portion that ISN'T taxable because you already paid tax on it!
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