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Something else to consider - if you exercise and sell the ISOs to your colleague at strike price, make sure you document EVERYTHING meticulously. The transaction should be at arm's length with proper documentation showing the FMV at time of exercise, the agreed sale price, and the timing of the transaction. I did something similar and got selected for audit. The IRS questioned whether the sale was legitimate or just a scheme to avoid taxation. Having proper documentation from the company about the FMV and a formal purchase agreement with the buyer saved me a huge headache.
That's really helpful advice. What specific documentation did you end up needing? Just the stock purchase agreement or were there other forms the company needed to provide?
I needed several documents to satisfy the IRS. First, I had the company provide a letter stating the most recent 409A valuation and when it was conducted. Second, I had a formal stock purchase agreement with the buyer that included representations about the arm's length nature of the transaction. I also kept all email communications regarding the negotiation to show it wasn't pre-arranged. Additionally, I made sure the payment was properly documented with a wire transfer rather than cash or personal checks. Finally, I had my exercise documented through the company's equity management platform with timestamps showing when each transaction occurred.
Just to add a practical note - I went through this exact scenario and discovered the company bylaws actually had a Right of First Refusal clause that complicated my ability to sell to another individual. Make sure you check your company's stock agreement before assuming you can freely transfer shares to your colleague.
Good point! Our company requires board approval for any stock transfers. Found that out the hard way when I tried to transfer some shares to my spouse last year.
You might have screwed up your withholding, but also check if you're still claiming the same number of allowances/dependents as last year. Tax laws have changed a bit too. I had a similar issue when I forgot to update my filing status after getting married. Cost me nearly $3k in unexpected taxes!
I haven't had any life changes like marriage or kids, but I didn't realize the tax laws had changed. Is there somewhere specific I should look at my return to see if that's affecting me? And yeah, my W-4 looks totally different than the last time I filled one out years ago. I'm confused about how to fill it out properly for next year to avoid this happening again.
The W-4 redesign definitely makes things confusing. The new form tries to be more accurate but requires more information. For your situation, pay special attention to Step 2 if you have multiple jobs (like your main job plus a side gig) - that's where a lot of people mess up. You probably need to look at your marginal tax bracket - when you got that promotion, you might have pushed some of your income into a higher tax bracket. The old W-4 wouldn't automatically adjust for that. The IRS has a Tax Withholding Estimator on their website that's actually pretty helpful for figuring out the right withholding amount.
anyone know if theres a way to get the irs to waive penalties? i ended up owing almost exactly what the op did and they added like $300 in penalties because i "underpaid" during the year. feels like a scam tbh
Yes, there actually is! The IRS has something called "First Time Penalty Abatement" which they don't advertise much. If you've had a clean tax record for the past 3 years, you can often get penalties removed for a first-time issue. You just need to call them and specifically ask for this. You can also request abatement by writing a letter explaining if you had a reasonable cause for the underpayment - like if you had a major life change, calculation error, etc. They can be surprisingly understanding if you approach it the right way.
Another thing to check - did you get any unemployment last year? Even a small amount? I had a similar situation and found out that unemployment compensation isn't automatically taxed at the same rate as regular income, so I ended up owing more than expected. Also, see if you qualified for any tax credits last year that you don't qualify for this year. Some credits change or phase out based on income levels or other factors. Even small changes in your situation can have surprising effects on your final refund.
I didn't have any unemployment, but I think you might be onto something with the tax credits. I took a closer look at last year's return and I had qualified for a partial education credit that I didn't get this year since I'm done with school. It wasn't a huge amount but it might explain part of the difference. I'm also going to check if my employer changed their withholding calculations like someone else suggested. Looking at my final pay stub vs my W-2, the numbers match, but maybe the percentage they're withholding has changed.
That education credit would definitely explain part of it! Those can be worth hundreds depending on which one you qualified for. And the withholding percentage is definitely worth checking too - employers sometimes adjust that based on updated IRS guidance without employees noticing. One other thing - you mentioned your AGI was around $31,500. Did you have any pre-tax deductions that changed from last year? Things like 401k contributions, HSA deposits, or health insurance premiums? If those changed, they can affect both your AGI and how much tax is withheld.
Has anyone noticed that tax software sometimes takes different paths through the questions from year to year? Last year I used the same software and my refund was nearly $500 higher than this year with almost identical income. I went through it again super carefully and realized that the software asked questions in a different order, and I missed a whole section about deductions that I had completed the previous year!
That's such a good point! I've used TurboTax for years and the question flow definitely changes. Last year they asked about home office deductions right up front, but this year it was buried in some "other expenses" section I almost skipped. The UI changes can make a huge difference in what deductions you end up claiming.
This is why I use FreeTaxUSA for everything. Federal filing is free for ALL tax situations including crypto, stocks, self-employment, rental properties, whatever. State is only $15. I've been using them for years with no issues. They handle crypto transactions just fine - you just enter your cost basis and proceeds from the sale.
That sounds perfect! Do they have good support if I get confused about something? And is it really just $15 total as opposed to TurboTax's crazy $275?
Yep, it's really just $15 for state filing - federal is completely free regardless of how complicated your return is. They do have customer support, though it's not as hand-holding as TurboTax. But for something simple like reporting a small crypto gain, you definitely won't need much help. They have a pretty straightforward section for capital gains where you just enter your info. I've filed everything from W-2 income to crypto gains to self-employment and rental income with them without issues. For your situation with just a small gain, it'll be super easy.
Just a heads-up that not reporting income you know about is technically tax fraud. Even if it's just $43, it's not worth the risk. The penalties for intentional non-reporting start at 20% of the unpaid tax plus interest, and can go up to 75% for fraud. Plus there could be a $5,000 frivolous tax return penalty in some cases.
Megan D'Acosta
Here's my 2 cents as someone who's done their taxes both ways (self-filing and paying a professional): If ur situation is simple (just W-2 income, standard deduction) use a free filing option like FreeTaxUSA or even IRS Free File. Don't waste $ on TurboTax unless you need specific features. If you have ANY complications (self-employment, investments, multiple state returns, etc) or if ur making over ~80k, consider paying a tax professional. They often find deductions/credits that more than cover their fee. The best approach is probably to try filing yourself first with free software, and if it gets too confusing or you're not sure you're maximizing your refund, then consider upgrading to paid software or a professional.
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Sarah Ali
ā¢What about Credit Karma Tax? I heard that's completely free even for more complicated returns. Has anyone tried it?
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Megan D'Acosta
ā¢Credit Karma Tax (now called Cash App Taxes) is completely free and handles most tax situations well. I've used it for returns with some investments and a side gig. The interface is clean and it covers most forms. The only downsides: it doesn't support multiple state returns, certain less common situations (like foreign income), and doesn't offer as much guidance as paid options. If your return is moderately complex but doesn't have those specific issues, it's an excellent free choice. Just be aware they make money by recommending financial products to you based on your tax info - that's the tradeoff for the free service.
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Ryan Vasquez
Don't overthink this! The IRS website (IRS.gov) has a Free File program that partners with tax software companies to provide free filing if your income is below a certain threshold (usually around $73,000). Go to IRS.gov and look for "Free File" options. Literally just gather all your tax documents (W-2s, 1099s, etc), pick a free software option from the IRS site, and follow the prompts. The software asks questions and fills in the forms for you. No calculations needed on your part. And no, you won't go to prison for tax fraud over honest mistakes! Tax fraud requires INTENTIONAL deception. If you make an honest error, worst case you might pay a small penalty if you underpaid.
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Avery Saint
ā¢Just want to add that if your income is below $60,000 you might qualify for free in-person help through VITA (Volunteer Income Tax Assistance). They're IRS-certified volunteers who will prepare your return for free. Google "VITA tax help near me" to find locations.
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