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Have you considered taking a 401k loan instead of a withdrawal? Most 401k plans allow you to borrow up to 50% of your vested balance (max $50,000) without any tax consequences as long as you repay it according to the terms. You'd be paying interest to yourself, and there's no credit check since you're essentially borrowing your own money. The downside is you'd need to repay the loan within 5 years in most cases, and if you leave your job before repaying it, the outstanding balance typically becomes due within 60-90 days or it's treated as a distribution (with taxes and penalties). I took a 401k loan last year rather than an early withdrawal and it saved me thousands in taxes and penalties. Just something to consider before permanently removing money from your retirement savings.
Thanks for this suggestion. I actually looked into the loan option with my plan administrator yesterday. They do offer loans but only up to $50k as you mentioned, and I need about $95k for my situation. I also have concerns about the repayment terms since my job situation isn't 100% stable right now. Do you know if it's possible to do a combination approach - maybe take the maximum loan of $50k and then do a withdrawal for the remaining amount I need? Would that at least minimize the tax hit compared to withdrawing the full amount?
Yes, you can absolutely use a combination approach. Taking the maximum loan of $50k and then withdrawing the additional $45k you need would definitely minimize your overall tax hit and penalties. With this approach, the $50k loan would have no immediate tax consequences as long as you make the required payments. Then only the $45k withdrawal would be subject to the pro-rata rule for determining how much is considered contributions versus earnings (and thus how much would be subject to taxes and the 10% early withdrawal penalty).
Just wanted to point out a less-known option - check if your 401k plan allows for hardship withdrawals. These still have taxes on earnings and potentially the 10% penalty, but they're available for specific circumstances like preventing eviction/foreclosure, certain medical expenses, college tuition, or home purchase. The advantage is that hardship withdrawals don't require repayment like loans do. Some plans also allow for withdrawals at age 55 without penalty if you separate from service - something to consider if you're closer to that age than 59½.
I've been using this exact structure (C-Corp + S-Corp) for 3 years now in my manufacturing business. Here's my experience: The key is making sure the consulting agreement is DETAILED and the S-Corp is providing real, documentable services. I have my S-Corp handle all executive management, marketing strategy, financial oversight, and business development. We keep detailed logs of hours, projects, and deliverables. The IRS did question this in a correspondence audit last year. What saved me was having: 1) A third-party compensation study showing my consulting rates were reasonable 2) Detailed work documentation and deliverables 3) Separate physical locations, email systems, and business operations Also important: Don't have the EXACT same ownership percentages in both entities. Mine are slightly different (I have a minority partner in the C-Corp but not the S-Corp).
How much did that third-party compensation study cost? And did you have a tax attorney help set all this up or did you DIY it? Seems like a lot of complexity just to avoid some taxes.
The compensation study cost about $3,500, but was worth every penny when the IRS came calling. I did have a tax attorney help set everything up initially - cost around $8,000 for all the documentation, agreements, and structure. Yes, it's not cheap upfront, but I've saved well into six figures in taxes over three years. It's not just about tax savings though. The structure actually makes business sense for us - the C-Corp focuses on production and operations while the S-Corp handles strategy and growth initiatives. Having the separation has helped us clarify roles and responsibilities within the company.
Has anyone considered the state tax implications of this setup? I did something similar and while it worked fine for federal, my state (CA) has additional rules about related entities that nearly negated all the benefits.
Something to be aware of with the Saver's Credit - the income limits are pretty low compared to other tax benefits. I qualified when I was early in my career, but got a raise and suddenly wasn't eligible anymore even though I wasn't making that much. For married filing jointly, you need AGI under $76,500 (for 2024 filing in 2025), which sounds like a lot but can be hit quickly with two moderate incomes. And the credit percentage drops as your income rises - only those with very low incomes get the full 50% rate.
That's good to know! Is there anything I can do to lower my AGI if I'm close to the cutoff? I'm currently single making around $35k, so I think I'm still under the limit, but I'm expecting a raise soon.
Contributing more to your pre-tax 401(k) is actually one of the best ways to lower your AGI! Those contributions come out before your AGI is calculated. For example, if you're at $39,000 and the limit is $38,250, contributing an extra $750 to your 401(k) would get you under the threshold. Health Savings Account (HSA) contributions also reduce your AGI if you have a high-deductible health plan. Traditional IRA contributions can reduce AGI too, but that might be limited since you participate in a workplace plan.
I had this exact same issue with multiple tax softwares giving conflicting info about the Saver's Credit! Found out later that some tax programs have outdated descriptions that date back to when the credit was first introduced as the "IRA Tax Credit" in early 2000s. The Saver's Credit was expanded years ago to include 401(k)s, 403(b)s, 457 plans, and even the federal Thrift Savings Plan (TSP). So yes, your 401(k) contributions absolutely count!
This explains so much! Been using TaxAct for years and they have weird descriptions for some credits. Wonder how many people miss out on credits they qualify for because of confusing descriptions.
Little tip from someone who worked in elder care for years - keep good records of when your parent stopped filing and why, especially if they filed in previous years. Most seniors with only SS don't need to file, but having documentation of the decision can save headaches if questions come up later. I usually recommend keeping a simple note with their important papers explaining the decision, the date, and citing the relevant IRS guideline (that SS-only income doesn't require filing).
That's really helpful advice! Would you recommend I get something in writing from a tax professional stating that my father doesn't need to file anymore? Or is my own documentation sufficient?
Your own documentation is usually sufficient. Just create a simple dated memo stating "As of [date], [parent's name] no longer files tax returns as their only income is Social Security benefits, which falls below the IRS filing threshold." Include any reference to IRS publications that support this (Publication 915 covers Social Security taxation). A tax professional's statement isn't necessary but can provide extra reassurance if you're concerned. Some tax preparers will provide a simple letter confirming non-filing status at little or no cost if you've used their services before. Just having something in your parent's financial records explaining the change helps if questions arise during future care transitions or estate matters.
Does anyone know if this affects Medicaid applications at all? My mom's in similar situation (only SS income) and we're in the process of applying for Medicaid for her nursing home. Would showing "no tax returns" cause any problems with that process?
Not filing taxes won't negatively impact a Medicaid application. In fact, it's completely normal for Medicaid applicants who only receive Social Security to not file tax returns. Medicaid eligibility is based on current income and assets, not on tax filing status. They'll still want to see proof of all income sources (including the SSA benefit statement), but they won't expect or require tax returns if there's no filing requirement.
ThunderBolt7
I'm a little late to this discussion, but for what it's worth, I had this exact situation a few years ago. When I took my 1099-R with Code J to my tax preparer, she knew exactly what to do. She entered it as a rollover/transfer on Form 1040, which meant it showed up on the tax return but wasn't counted as taxable income. One thing to remember is to keep all your documentation for at least 3 years after filing. Even though the IRS systems usually match these things up correctly, having your merger paperwork and account statements showing the transfer can be important if there's ever a question.
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Mateo Gonzalez
ā¢Did your tax preparer need to see the 5498 form, or were they able to process everything with just the 1099-R and the documentation showing the transfer/merger?
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ThunderBolt7
ā¢My tax preparer didn't need the 5498 form at all. She was able to process everything correctly with just the 1099-R and my documentation showing the transfer happened because of the merger. She told me that tax preparers are very familiar with this situation and know exactly how to code it properly in the tax software. The 5498 forms are more for record-keeping and verification if the IRS has questions later, but they aren't necessary for preparing and filing an accurate return.
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Jamal Edwards
Quick question - does anyone know if TurboTax handles this situation well? I got a similar 1099-R with Code J for a rollover and want to make sure I'm doing it right.
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Mei Chen
ā¢I used TurboTax last year for this exact scenario. It definitely handles it, but you need to make sure you answer the questions correctly. When it asks about your 1099-R, there's a specific question about whether you rolled over the distribution into another qualified retirement account. Make sure you say YES to that question, and it'll treat it as non-taxable. It'll also ask you to enter the amount rolled over, which should be the full amount from the 1099-R in your case.
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