IRS

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Ask the community...

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Julia Hall

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Hey I just went through this exact situation last week! One thing nobody mentioned - take screenshots of EVERYTHING. The confirmation page when you submit, the email confirmation, everything. I had an issue last year where the brokerage claimed they never received my application even though I submitted before the deadline. My screenshots saved me.

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Arjun Patel

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Smart advice! I'd also recommend sending a follow-up email to the provider stating that you submitted your application on X date for establishing a solo 401k for the tax year. That way you have written documentation from both sides.

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This is such a stressful situation but you're not totally screwed! I went through something similar two years ago. The key thing is getting that application submitted TODAY - the IRS looks at when you established the plan (submitted paperwork), not when it gets processed. A few quick tips since you're down to the wire: - Fill out the application completely - incomplete apps don't count for establishment date - Get confirmation numbers/screenshots of everything - Email yourself copies of all documents with timestamps - If possible, call the brokerage to confirm they received your submission The funding part you can worry about later - you have months to actually transfer money. Focus on getting that paperwork in before midnight and you'll be fine! Good luck!

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This is really helpful advice! I'm actually in a similar boat - been procrastinating on setting up my solo 401k for my freelance work all year. Quick question though - when you say "fill out the application completely," are there any specific sections that people commonly miss that would make it incomplete? I want to make sure I don't mess this up if I end up in a last-minute rush like the original poster!

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21 Has anyone here actually calculated if doordashing is worth it after accounting for gas, car maintenance, insurance, and self-employment taxes? I did it for 3 months and when I really added everything up, I was making like $10/hr effective rate even though the app showed $18-20/hr.

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5 This is the real question! I did the math and found it's only worth it if you're strategic. I only dash during peak pay times ($3-4 extra per order) and decline any order less than $7 or that takes me more than 4 miles from restaurants. Doing this, I average about $22-24/hr before expenses, which ends up being around $16-18/hr after everything. Also, you really need to track EVERY expense and mile to make the tax situation better. The difference between tracking everything vs. just taking the basic deductions was about $1,800 in my tax liability last year.

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Just wanted to share my experience as someone who's been doing both W-2 work and gig delivery for about a year now. The advice about using your W-4 to withhold extra is spot on - I wish I'd known this earlier! One thing I'd add is to keep separate bank accounts if possible. I opened a simple checking account just for my Doordash deposits, and it makes tracking business income and expenses SO much easier at tax time. Even if you're only making $200-300/month, having that clean separation is worth it. Also, don't wait until tax season to start organizing. I made that mistake my first year and spent hours trying to reconstruct my records. Now I take 10 minutes each week to log my expenses and reconcile everything - saves me from the panic later! For your income level, you're probably fine without quarterly payments, but definitely keep an eye on it. If you start making more or pick up additional gig work, you might cross into needing them.

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This is really solid advice, especially about the separate bank account! I'm just starting to think about doing Doordash and hadn't considered that aspect. Quick question - do you use a specific bank that's better for gig workers, or is any basic checking account fine? And when you say "log expenses weekly," are you talking about just gas and mileage, or other stuff too? Also curious about your comment on quarterly payments - at what income level did you start needing to make them? I'm trying to plan ahead so I don't get caught off guard.

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Laila Fury

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Any basic checking account works fine - I just use a free one from my local credit union. The key is keeping it completely separate from your personal spending. For weekly logging, I track gas (if I'm doing actual expense method instead of mileage), phone bill percentage, any car washes, equipment purchases (phone mounts, hot bags, etc.), and sometimes parking fees if I'm dashing downtown. Most people just do mileage deduction since it's simpler and usually better, but I like having both options calculated. On quarterly payments - I had to start when my gig income hit around $6,000 annually. The general rule is if you'll owe more than $1,000 in taxes that aren't covered by withholding, you need quarterlies. But honestly, if you're keeping your W-2 job and can just increase withholding there like others mentioned, it's way easier than dealing with the quarterly deadlines.

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Paolo Marino

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Don't forget about debt basis too! The basis calculation gets more complicated if you have loans to the S corp. Also remember that the order matters: 1. Income increases basis 2. Non-deductible expenses decrease basis 3. Distributions decrease basis In your example, since income exactly equals your salary + distributions, your ending basis is correctly $0. But as others mentioned, that doesn't make the distributions capital gains - they're still return of capital because you had sufficient basis when taking them.

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Amina Bah

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So what tax forms would show this? Is this all reported on the K-1 or somewhere else?

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The K-1 (Form 1120S Schedule K-1) is where most of this gets reported. Box 16 shows distributions to shareholders, and your share of income/losses flows through via Box 1 (ordinary income). However, the K-1 doesn't directly show your basis calculation - that's something you need to track separately. You'll report the pass-through income on your personal return (Form 1040), but the distributions themselves aren't directly reported as taxable income since they're return of capital up to your basis. The tricky part is that YOU are responsible for tracking your basis year over year - the IRS doesn't do this for you. I'd recommend keeping a simple spreadsheet tracking: starting basis + income + other increases - distributions - losses = ending basis. This becomes crucial if you ever have distributions that exceed basis, because then you'd need to report the excess as capital gains on Schedule D.

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Chloe Martin

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This is really helpful! I've been struggling to understand how to track my S-corp basis properly. Do you know of any good spreadsheet templates or tools specifically designed for tracking S-corp shareholder basis over multiple years? It seems like something that would be easy to mess up if you're doing it manually, especially with multiple income sources, loans, and distribution timing.

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Omar Fawzi

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My situation was pretty similar last year excepted I had 2 kids. Got back like 7k total between federal and state. Your probably gonna get more with the extra dependents

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thats awesome to hear! fingers crossed šŸ¤ž

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Isaac Wright

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With your income and family situation, you're definitely looking at a substantial refund! At $24k income with 4 dependents, you'll likely qualify for the maximum Earned Income Tax Credit (around $6,935 for 3+ qualifying children), plus Child Tax Credit for your kids under 17 ($2,000 each). The adult dependent should get you the Other Dependent Credit ($500). Quick math: you're probably looking at $8k-10k federal refund, maybe more. Plus you'll get most of that state withholding back too. Definitely file as Head of Household and make sure to gather all your documentation for the dependents. You should be able to file soon since the IRS opens for e-filing on January 27th this year!

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Mason Davis

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The entire W4 system is such a mess for two-income households! My husband and I gave up trying to get it perfect and just do this simple method: 1. We both claim "married filing jointly" on our W4s 2. We both check the "multiple jobs" box in Step 2 3. Then we each add an additional specific amount on line 4(c) We take our total tax bill from last year, subtract what was already withheld, then divide that shortage by the number of paychecks we get in a year (24 for me, 26 for him). I put about $50 extra per check and he does $45. No complicated calculations, no tax bracket math, just a simple adjustment based on what we actually owed before. Haven't owed money in 3 years doing it this way.

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Mia Rodriguez

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Wouldn't checking the multiple jobs box AND adding extra withholding be too much? Isn't the box supposed to handle the two incomes problem already?

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Jamal Brown

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I've been dealing with this exact same issue! What finally worked for me was using the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator that @Faith Kingston mentioned, but here's the key - you need to run it AFTER you get your first paystub of the year to get accurate numbers. The estimator will tell you exactly how much extra to withhold from each paycheck. In my case, it recommended adding $85 per paycheck to my W4 line 4(c), which seemed like a lot but ended up being perfect. We went from owing $2,200 last year to getting a small $150 refund. One thing I learned is that the "married filing separately" withholding option on your W4 is actually more aggressive than you might need. It assumes you're ACTUALLY filing separately, which has higher tax rates than filing jointly. So you'd probably end up with a big refund. The multiple jobs checkbox is a good middle ground, but if you want to be really precise, definitely use the IRS estimator and add the specific dollar amount it recommends to line 4(c). Takes about 15 minutes but saves you from surprises at tax time!

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