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The specific IRS guidance on this is in Publication 529 under "Work Clothes and Uniforms." It says you can deduct the cost of clothing if: 1) You must wear them as a condition of your employment, AND 2) The clothes aren't suitable for everyday wear. It specifically mentions nurses, firefighters, police officers, and delivery workers as examples where uniforms qualify. But for tradespeople it's more about whether the clothing is specialized and not adaptable for everyday use.
Thanks for the specific publication. I looked it up and found that even clothing that gets unusually dirty or damaged in your work doesn't qualify if it's otherwise ordinary clothing. That explains why my work jeans aren't deductible even though they get trashed on construction sites.
As a tax professional, I want to emphasize that the "grocery store test" mentioned earlier is actually a pretty good rule of thumb, but there's one more nuance worth considering: protective equipment versus clothing. Items like hard hats, safety goggles, respirators, and specialty gloves are almost always deductible because they're clearly protective equipment rather than clothing. But when it comes to actual clothing items, the IRS really does focus on whether they're "adaptable to general usage." For electricians specifically, flame-resistant clothing designed to meet OSHA standards is typically deductible because it serves a specialized safety function. Regular work shirts, even if you embroider your company name on them, usually aren't. One thing that trips up a lot of self-employed folks: cleaning and maintenance of qualifying work clothing is also deductible. So if you have legitimate work uniforms that need special cleaning (like flame-resistant coveralls), those cleaning costs count too. The key is documentation - keep receipts and be prepared to explain why each item was specifically required for your trade and not suitable for everyday wear. The IRS can be quite strict on this deduction during audits.
This is really helpful! I never thought about the distinction between protective equipment and clothing. So my safety harness and electrical testing gloves would definitely qualify, but what about things like insulated work boots? They're protective but also look like regular boots. Also, you mentioned flame-resistant clothing for electricians - does that include just the specialized FR shirts and pants, or would regular work clothes that happen to be made from natural fibers (which are less flammable) also count? I've been buying cotton shirts instead of synthetic blends specifically for electrical work safety.
I'm in almost the identical situation! Filed my 2024 return in early February, got hit with the 570/971 codes three weeks later because I never filed my 2021 return. It's so stressful when you think everything is going smoothly and then this curveball hits you. I sent my missing 2021 return via certified mail 12 days ago and have been obsessively checking my transcript twice a day (I know, I know, everyone says not to do this but I can't help myself!). Reading all these responses is actually really reassuring - it sounds like the 3-4 week timeframe is pretty consistent across different situations. @Hugh Intensity - thanks for that detailed timeline! That 571 code tip is super helpful. I had no idea what to look for besides just hoping the 570 would disappear. Now I know there's actually a specific code that shows when the hold gets released. For anyone else going through this - we're definitely not alone in this situation! Seems like missing prior year returns while being newer to the US tax system is more common than I thought.
I went through this exact scenario last year! Filed my 2024 return in January, got the dreaded 570/971 codes in February because I had never filed my 2020 return (I was new to the US and honestly didn't realize I needed to file that year since my income was below the threshold, but apparently I still should have). The waiting is absolutely the worst part - I was checking my transcript obsessively too! Here's what happened with mine: - Mailed my missing 2020 return via certified mail on February 18th - Transcript showed no changes for weeks (so nerve-wracking!) - On March 15th, I finally saw the 571 code appear (like Hugh mentioned - this is the "hold released" code) - Refund hit my account on March 19th So total timeline was about 4 weeks from mailing the old return to getting my current year refund. The IRS processed everything internally without showing me any intermediate steps, which was frustrating but apparently normal. One thing I learned: if you have a complex situation or multiple missing years, consider getting a tax professional to help. I tried to handle it myself initially but ended up spending way more time and stress than if I'd just gotten help from the start. Good luck - you'll get through this! š¤
This is so reassuring to read! I'm in week 2 of waiting after filing my missing 2023 return, and the daily transcript checking is definitely becoming an obsession š It's good to know that 4 weeks seems to be the typical timeline and that there usually aren't any intermediate updates to watch for. @Nick Kravitz - your point about getting professional help is really smart. I m'realizing there are so many nuances to the US tax system that I m'still learning about even after being here for a few years. Did the tax professional help you with just the missing return or did they also help you understand how to avoid similar issues in the future? The 571 code tip from @Hugh Intensity is golden - I had no idea what to look for beyond just hoping the 570 would disappear. Now I know exactly what signal means I m almost'home free!
Don't forget about the QBI deduction implications of hiring your spouse. Putting too much into their salary could reduce your Qualified Business Income deduction if you qualify for it. You need to balance the retirement contribution benefits against potential QBI losses.
Great point about the QBI deduction! This is something I hadn't fully considered. For anyone else reading, the QBI (Section 199A) deduction can be up to 20% of your qualified business income, but it gets complicated when you have employees. When you pay W-2 wages to your spouse, those wages reduce your net business income that's eligible for QBI. However, having W-2 wages can also help you qualify for QBI if your income is in the phase-out range ($182,050-$232,050 for single filers in 2024). The key is finding the sweet spot where the tax savings from maxing out retirement contributions outweigh any reduction in your QBI deduction. This really depends on your total income level and tax bracket. I'd recommend running the numbers both ways - with and without spousal employment - to see which scenario gives you better overall tax savings. A tax software program or CPA can help model this, especially since the QBI rules are pretty complex with all the wage and income limitations.
This is exactly the kind of nuanced analysis I was hoping to find! The QBI calculation seems incredibly complex when you factor in employee wages. Do you know if there are any online calculators that can help model the QBI impact vs retirement contribution benefits? I'm trying to figure out the optimal salary amount for my spouse without having to pay a CPA hundreds of dollars just to run scenarios.
As a fellow newcomer to the US tax system, I completely understand your confusion! I went through something similar when I first arrived. One thing that really helped me was understanding that the W-4 is just an estimate for withholding - you're not locked into anything. Since you're both working and newly married, I'd recommend: 1. Both select "Married filing jointly" on your W-4s 2. Make sure to check the "Multiple Jobs or Spouse Works" box in Step 2 on both forms 3. Consider using the IRS withholding calculator at irs.gov to get a more precise estimate For dependents, put 0 unless you have children or other qualifying dependents. Health insurance coverage doesn't make you dependents of each other. The good news is that when you file your actual tax return next year, you can choose the filing status that works best for you (likely married filing jointly), regardless of what you put on your W-4s. The W-4 is just to help get your withholding close to what you'll owe. Don't stress too much - you can always adjust your W-4 later if needed once you see how your first few paychecks look!
This is such helpful advice! As someone who's also navigating the US tax system for the first time, I really appreciate you breaking it down step by step. One quick question - you mentioned we can adjust our W-4 later if needed. How soon after starting work would you recommend checking to see if the withholding amounts look right? Should we wait for a few paychecks or is there a way to estimate it sooner? Also, @Kiara Fisherman - since you mentioned your wife is switching schools in August, she ll'probably need to fill out a new W-4 at her new job anyway, so that could be a good opportunity to make any adjustments based on what you learn from your first few months of paychecks together.
Welcome to the US tax system! As someone who also navigated this as a new immigrant, I totally get the confusion. The key thing to remember is that your W-4 and actual tax filing are separate decisions. For your W-4 forms, since you're legally married and both working: 1. Select "Married filing jointly" in Step 1 2. Definitely check the "Multiple Jobs or Spouse Works" box in Step 2 - this is crucial to avoid underwithholding 3. Put 0 for dependents unless you have children The immigration status piece that @Sophie Duck mentioned is really important. If you arrived recently, look into whether you qualify as a resident alien for tax purposes and consider the First-Year Choice election if you don't meet the substantial presence test yet. One practical tip: keep your first few pay stubs and use the IRS withholding calculator online after a month or two to see if you need to adjust. Since your wife is changing jobs in August anyway, that's a perfect time to fine-tune the W-4 based on what you've learned. Don't worry about getting it perfect immediately - you can always adjust as you go!
This is really comprehensive advice! I'm also new to the US and have been struggling with similar W-4 confusion. One thing I'm still not clear on - when you mention the "First-Year Choice election," is that something we need to actively file or does it happen automatically when we file jointly? Also, @NebulaNinja, you mentioned keeping pay stubs to check withholding - roughly what percentage of gross pay should we expect to see withheld for federal taxes if we fill out the W-4 correctly for a married couple both working? Just trying to get a sense of what "normal" looks like so I know if something seems way off. Thanks for all the helpful guidance in this thread - it's been so much more useful than anything I could find on government websites!
Zachary Hughes
One strategic tax planning tip related to capital losses: if you anticipate having substantial capital gains in the near future, you might want to consider NOT claiming the full $3,000 deduction against ordinary income in some years. While this sounds counterintuitive, if you're in a relatively low tax bracket now but expect to be in a much higher bracket when you realize those future gains, it might be more tax-efficient to preserve more of your carried-over losses to offset those future gains. For example, if you're currently in the 12% bracket but expect to have gains that would be taxed at 20% plus the 3.8% NIIT in the future, saving those losses could give you a better overall tax benefit.
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Anthony Young
ā¢That's a really interesting point I hadn't considered. In my case, I'm expecting my income to increase significantly next year (hopefully getting a promotion), which would bump me up a tax bracket. So it might actually be better for me to save more of my carried losses for next year rather than using the full $3k against income this year?
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Zachary Hughes
ā¢Exactly! If you're expecting to move up a tax bracket next year, it could be more advantageous to preserve those losses for the future. For example, if you're currently in the 22% bracket but will be in the 24% bracket next year, each dollar of loss would offset 24 cents in tax next year versus only 22 cents this year. This becomes even more significant if your future capital gains would push you into the higher capital gains rates or make you subject to the 3.8% Net Investment Income Tax. Strategic timing of when you use your losses can make a meaningful difference in your overall tax burden across multiple years.
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Nia Thompson
This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a very similar situation - had about $22k in crypto losses from 2020-2021 and I'm finally seeing some recovery in my portfolio this year. One thing I want to emphasize for anyone reading this: definitely keep meticulous records of everything. I learned this lesson when I tried to reconstruct my loss carryover amounts last year and had to dig through old exchange records, some of which were from platforms that no longer existed! Also, a practical tip - if you're using tax software, double-check that it's correctly carrying forward your losses year to year. I caught an error in TurboTax where it somehow "lost" about $3k of my carryover between 2022 and 2023. Had to manually correct it. The peace of mind knowing these losses can eventually offset future gains makes the whole painful experience a bit more bearable. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - really valuable information here!
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Oliver Zimmermann
ā¢Great point about the record keeping! I'm just starting to get organized with my tax documents after years of just throwing everything in a shoebox. Do you have any recommendations for what specific records to keep for capital losses? I know I need the original purchase/sale documents, but what about things like exchange fees, transfer records, etc.? Also, that's scary about TurboTax losing part of your carryover - I've been using the same software for years and just assumed it was tracking everything correctly. Definitely going to double-check my numbers now!
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