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Welcome to the community! I just joined too and this thread has been incredibly eye-opening. I'm in almost the exact same boat - married with 3 kids under 12, AGI around $90k, and completely freaking out about the IRS calculator telling me to withhold zero federal taxes. Reading through everyone's experiences and the detailed math breakdowns has really helped calm my nerves. The explanation about how the Child Tax Credit works as a direct dollar-for-dollar reduction rather than just a deduction finally made it click for me. When you break it down - roughly $7,300 in tax liability minus $6,000 in Child Tax Credits - it really does make sense that we'd owe very little for the entire year. I love the compromise approach so many of you have taken. I think I'm going to start with withholding about $60 per paycheck - enough to give me that psychological safety net while still being way better than my current massive overwithholding situation. It's amazing to think I've been giving the government an interest-free loan of probably $4-5k every year! Thanks to everyone who shared their real experiences with this. It's so reassuring to know I'm not the only one who had this "this can't be right" moment, and that the math actually does work out. Looking forward to those bigger paychecks while still sleeping soundly at night!

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Amara Eze

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Welcome! It's so great to see another newcomer dealing with the exact same situation. I literally just joined this community yesterday because I was having the same panic about the IRS calculator results! Your plan to start with $60 per paycheck sounds perfect. I'm planning something similar - maybe $50-65 per check. It's that sweet spot where we're still being way more efficient than before but not cutting it so close that we're stressed all year. What really helped me was someone earlier mentioning that you can adjust your W-4 anytime during the year. So even if we start conservative with that small buffer, we could always reduce it further once we see how the first few months play out. There's no rule saying we have to get it perfect right away! I'm also looking forward to those bigger paychecks. Just thinking about having an extra $300-400 per month to work with instead of waiting for a huge refund is exciting. We could actually put that money to work in a high-yield savings account or toward paying down debt faster. Thanks for sharing your numbers too - it's really helpful to see someone with such a similar situation working through the same decision process!

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Welcome to everyone who's new here! This thread has been amazing - I'm also a newcomer dealing with this exact withholding dilemma. I have 3 kids under 10 and make about $88k, so very similar to what others have described. The IRS calculator gave me the same shocking "zero withholding" recommendation and I've been losing sleep over it for weeks! Reading through all these real experiences has been incredibly helpful. The mathematical explanations about how the Child Tax Credit works as a direct reduction really clarified things for me. It's wild to think that between the standard deduction and child tax credits, families like ours can legitimately owe very little in federal taxes. I'm definitely going to follow the compromise approach that seems popular here - maybe $50-60 per paycheck for that peace of mind buffer. It's still such a huge improvement from my current situation where I'm probably overwithholding by $300+ per month! One thing I'm curious about - for those who made this change, did you do anything special to track or save the extra money from your bigger paychecks? I'm worried I'll just spend it instead of being intentional about putting it to good use. Any tips for making sure this change actually benefits our family's finances?

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Welcome to the community! I'm new here too and this thread has been such a lifesaver. I'm in a nearly identical situation - 3 kids under 12, income around $92k, and had the same heart attack moment when the IRS calculator said zero withholding! For tracking the extra money, I set up an automatic transfer from checking to savings for the amount I expect to get extra each paycheck (about $280 for me). That way it's "out of sight, out of mind" and I'm not tempted to just spend it on random stuff. I treat it like the money was never there in the first place. Some of it goes into a high-yield savings account earmarked for next year's taxes (even though we probably won't owe much), and the rest goes toward our emergency fund and extra principal payments on our mortgage. It's amazing how much faster we're hitting our financial goals with this extra cash flow! I also started with $55 per paycheck withholding for that safety buffer everyone mentioned. Figured I can always adjust it down later once I see how everything plays out. The peace of mind is totally worth the slight "inefficiency" of having a small amount withheld.

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NebulaNomad

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I went through something very similar last year! My tax preparer filed my 2021 return but completely missed my 2020 return that I specifically asked her to handle. I was panicking when I discovered it months later. The good news is you have plenty of time - you can file your 2022 return until April 2025 if you're owed a refund. No penalties at all in that case. I ended up filing mine myself using TurboTax and got my refund within a few weeks. My advice: Don't wait for your current preparer to respond. Go get your documents TODAY if possible. I made the mistake of waiting and it just delayed everything. Also, definitely ask for a refund of whatever you paid for the 2022 filing since she never did the work. This is totally her fault and completely unprofessional. You're not the first person this has happened to, and unfortunately you probably won't be the last. The important thing is just getting it filed now so you can get your refund and move on with a better tax preparer next year!

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Kelsey Chin

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Thank you for sharing your experience! It's really reassuring to hear from someone who went through the exact same thing. I was honestly starting to panic thinking I might have missed some deadline or that this would cause major problems down the line. You're absolutely right about not waiting - I'm definitely going to her office first thing tomorrow morning to collect all my documents, whether she calls me back or not. It's frustrating that this seems to happen often enough that multiple people have dealt with it, but at least it means there's a clear path forward. I'll look into filing it myself with tax software since that worked well for you. Thanks again for the encouragement!

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I'm really sorry this happened to you! As a tax professional myself, this kind of oversight is completely unacceptable. You absolutely can still file your 2022 return - you have until April 15, 2025 if you're owed a refund, and there are no penalties for filing late when the IRS owes you money. Here's what I'd recommend doing immediately: 1. Go to her office in person and collect ALL your 2022 documents - don't wait for a callback 2. If she's avoiding you, send a certified letter demanding your documents and a partial refund for services not rendered 3. File your 2022 return ASAP using reputable tax software or find a new CPA 4. Consider reporting her to your state board if she's licensed - this is a serious breach of professional duty The fact that she charged you for both returns but only filed one is essentially theft of services. Document everything - your payment records, communications, etc. You have every right to demand accountability here. Don't stress about the IRS side of things though - this is completely fixable and you're well within the timeframe to get your 2022 refund!

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Rajan Walker

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This is exactly the kind of professional advice I needed to hear! I really appreciate you laying out the specific steps so clearly. I was honestly feeling overwhelmed by all the different suggestions, but your approach makes total sense - get my documents first, then worry about filing. The point about sending a certified letter is smart too - I want to have a paper trail of everything in case this gets messy. It's reassuring to hear from an actual tax professional that this is fixable and that I'm not facing any penalties. I'm definitely going to take your advice about reporting her if she continues to be unresponsive - if she's doing this to me, she's probably doing it to other clients too.

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NebulaNomad

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Make sure you check the entire transcript. Code 150 by itself is normal. But if you see codes 420 or 424 after it, that means you're being audited. Had that happen to me in 2022. Took 8 months to resolve. Don't ignore those codes if they appear.

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Adding to what everyone else has shared - Code 150 is indeed standard processing, but I wanted to mention that the timing can vary significantly based on your filing method and return complexity. E-filed returns typically show TC 150 within 2-3 weeks, while paper returns can take 6-8 weeks or longer. Also, don't panic if you see TC 150 but your "Where's My Refund" tool still shows "processing" - there's often a lag between when codes appear on transcripts and when the WMR updates. The key thing to remember is that TC 150 just establishes your tax liability in their system - it's not an indicator of when you'll receive your refund. Keep checking for TC 846 if you're expecting money back!

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This is really helpful context about the timing differences! I filed electronically through TurboTax on February 15th and just saw TC 150 appear on my transcript yesterday. My WMR tool is still showing that generic "processing" message, so it's reassuring to know there's typically a lag. I'm a first-time filer (just turned 18 and got my first W-2) so all these codes and systems are completely new to me. Should I expect to see TC 846 within a few days of TC 150 appearing, or could it be weeks?

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Mateo Silva

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2 Just to clarify something - are you using a tax-advantaged account like an IRA or is this in a regular taxable brokerage account? If it's in an IRA or 401k, none of this capital gains stuff applies since those accounts are tax-deferred or tax-free.

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Mateo Silva

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10 Pretty sure they're talking about a taxable account since they're worried about capital gains tax. You don't pay capital gains taxes on trades within retirement accounts.

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Logan Scott

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This is a tough situation, but the advice you've gotten is correct - each transaction is treated separately for tax purposes. Your original $98k gain is already a taxable event that's locked in. One thing to consider is your overall tax strategy for the year. If you sell now and take the $51k loss, your net taxable gain would be $47k ($98k gain minus $51k loss). But you might want to look at whether you have any other investments with unrealized losses that you could harvest to further offset that gain. Also worth noting - if this stock continues to decline and you think it might recover eventually, you could consider selling now to capture the tax loss, then wait 31 days before buying back to avoid the wash sale rule. That way you get the tax benefit while still being able to re-enter the position if you believe in the long-term prospects. The timing of when you sell matters too since we're getting close to year-end. Make sure any sale settles before December 31st if you want the loss to count for this tax year.

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Zadie Patel

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This is really helpful advice, especially the point about tax-loss harvesting other positions. I hadn't thought about looking at my entire portfolio to see what other losses I could capture to offset more of that $98k gain. The 31-day wait period strategy is interesting too - basically take the tax loss now but still be able to get back in if I believe the stock will recover. That seems like it could be the best of both worlds, assuming I'm willing to risk missing out on any potential recovery during that month. Question about the settlement timing - if I place a sell order on December 30th, does that count for this tax year even if it settles in January? Or does it have to actually settle by December 31st?

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Remember that there's also the Child Tax Credit to consider. For 2023, it's up to $2,000 per qualifying child under 17. With twins, that's potentially $4,000 in tax credits! This is separate from dependent exemptions (which don't exist anymore) and can significantly reduce tax liability. This credit begins to phase out when income exceeds $200,000 for single filers, which might affect your girlfriend at $230K. You might benefit more from claiming the children for this reason alone.

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Tate Jensen

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There's also the Child and Dependent Care Credit if they're paying for daycare or nanny services for the twins! That can be worth up to 35% of $3,000 in expenses for one child or $6,000 for two or more children, depending on income.

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Dylan Hughes

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This is exactly the kind of situation where you need to run the numbers both ways! With your girlfriend at $230K, she's likely hitting some phase-out thresholds that could make it more beneficial for you to claim the twins. A few key things to consider: - Child Tax Credit phases out starting at $200K for single filers, so she might not get the full $4,000 credit for both twins - Your lower income might qualify for better credits and deductions - Since you mentioned rental property, claiming Head of Household could give you better tax brackets for all your income The tricky part is that if she's been claiming them on her W-4 all year, she's gotten bigger paychecks but will owe that back if she doesn't claim them on the return. You'll want to coordinate this so one of you doesn't get stuck with a surprise tax bill. I'd suggest using a tax calculator or software to model both scenarios - her claiming them vs you claiming them - and see which gives you the better combined outcome as a family unit. The difference could be substantial given your income levels and the various credits involved.

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Julian Paolo

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This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar boat with my partner - we had our first baby last year and were so confused about all this stuff. One thing that really surprised me was learning about the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC) too. Even though you both make good money, it's worth checking if either of you might qualify when claiming the twins, especially since the income limits are higher when you have qualifying children. Also, don't forget about flexible spending accounts if your employers offer them! If you're going to be paying for childcare, you might want to set up a Dependent Care FSA for next year. You can contribute up to $5,000 pre-tax which could save you both money. Just make sure whoever claims the kids on their taxes is also the one with the FSA. The coordination piece is so important - we ended up having to adjust our withholdings mid-year once we figured out our strategy, and it made such a difference in avoiding that surprise tax bill situation.

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