I would strongly recommend documenting everything right away while it's fresh in your mind. Write down exactly what the preparer told you verbally about your return, fees, and the advance loan. Note dates when you requested documents and when you received them. Take pictures of any paperwork you have, even handwritten notes. I learned from my own experience that these small details can make a huge difference when building your case. Also, check your bank statements for the exact amount of the advance deposit. The electronic trail of deposits will be important evidence showing exactly how much you received versus what was issued.

This is absolutely infuriating and I'm so sorry you're going through this. What you've described is textbook tax preparer fraud and theft. Beyond the excellent advice already given about IRS forms and reporting, I'd also suggest checking if your state has a Consumer Protection Division or Attorney General's office that handles financial fraud cases. Many states have specific programs for tax preparer fraud that can work alongside federal investigations. One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet - consider filing a complaint with the Better Business Bureau if the preparer's business is listed there. While it won't get your money back directly, it creates another paper trail and warns future potential victims. Also, if you paid the preparer with a credit card, contact your card company immediately to dispute the charges. Explain that you were charged for services not rendered (since he inflated your income without authorization and kept money that should have gone to you). Credit card companies often have stronger fraud protections than other payment methods. Document absolutely everything - take photos of all paperwork, save text messages, and write down every conversation you remember having with this person. The more evidence you have, the stronger your case will be across all the agencies you'll be reporting to. You're doing the right thing by pursuing this aggressively. This preparer is likely doing this to other clients too, so your actions could help protect others from the same scam.

word of advice: DONT CALL!! been on hold for 3 hours today and got hung up on twice. just do the online thing

I just went through this process last month! The online verification at idverify.irs.gov is definitely the way to go - took me about 20 minutes total. You'll need your Social Security card, driver's license, and either your prior year tax return OR a bank statement/utility bill. They ask you some questions about your credit history too. After I verified, I got my refund in about 5 weeks, which was faster than I expected. Pro tip: do it during off-peak hours if possible to avoid the site being slow!

Don't overlook the marketplace facilitator laws! If you decide to expand beyond your website to sell on platforms like Amazon, Etsy, or eBay, those platforms handle the sales tax collection and remittance in most states now. This might be a way to expand your business without increasing your sales tax burden, especially for those occasional sales in states where you're not registered.

I understand your frustration completely - I went through the exact same confusion when I started my dropshipping business two years ago. Here's what I learned that might help simplify things: First, don't panic about registering in every possible state from day one. Most states have economic nexus thresholds (usually $100k in sales or 200 transactions annually) that you likely won't hit initially. Focus on your home state first, which you've already done correctly. For the supplier issue, try this approach: Ask your supplier if they'll accept a multi-jurisdiction resale certificate along with documentation showing you're registered in your home state. Many suppliers will accept this as reasonable good faith effort, especially for smaller businesses. Another practical tip: Keep detailed records of where your sales actually go. You might find that 80% of your orders come from just a few states, making your compliance much more manageable than you think. The reality is that perfect compliance from day one is nearly impossible for small businesses, but good faith effort and proper documentation go a long way. As your business grows and you can afford professional help, you can tighten up your compliance. Don't let analysis paralysis stop you from growing your business!

Stupid question maybe but is this the same for crypto transactions? My 1099-B from Coinbase has some transactions marked as "noncovered" but has cost basis for most of them.

This is a really common source of confusion, and you're definitely not alone in wondering about this! The key thing to understand is that "noncovered security" refers to the broker's reporting obligation to the IRS, not what appears on your copy of the 1099-B. Even though your broker filled in the basis amount on your form, because it's marked as "noncovered," they are NOT required to (and likely did not) report that basis information to the IRS. This typically happens with securities acquired before 2011 or transferred between brokers without proper basis tracking. You'll need to report the basis yourself on Form 8949. Use code "B" in column (f) for short-term gains/losses or code "E" for long-term. This tells the IRS you're providing basis information for a noncovered security. Since you mentioned these were stocks from your grandpa, make sure you're using the correct basis. If they were gifted to you while he was alive, you generally use his original cost basis. The basis amount your broker shows might not be accurate for gifted securities, so you may need to do some research to find the correct amount. Keep all your documentation - gift records, any basis information you can find, etc. - in case you need to substantiate your basis calculation later.

FYI - sometimes "SR" can mean "Supplemental Rate" too. When I worked at my last job, I had regular medical coverage plus a supplemental critical illness policy, and it showed up exactly like this. "Medical EE" was the base plan and "SR" was the add-on. Worth checking if you have multiple types of coverage.

This thread has been super helpful! I work in benefits administration and can confirm that payroll codes are unfortunately not standardized across companies. "Medical EE - SR" could mean several different things depending on your employer's system: - Employee - Standard Rate (most common) - Employee - Senior Rate (age-based pricing) - Employee - Spouse Rate (family coverage) - Employee - Supplemental Rate (additional coverage) The best approach is definitely to check with your HR department first, as they'll have the specific definitions for your company's codes. If you can't get clear answers there, your insurance card usually has a member services number that can help explain what coverage you're actually paying for. One tip: if you're budgeting, remember that most medical insurance premiums are deducted pre-tax, which reduces your taxable income. So while you see the deduction on your gross pay, it's actually saving you money on taxes compared to paying the same amount out-of-pocket after taxes.