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If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


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Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


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Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


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Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


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What's the best alternative to TaxSlayer if I do end up having to switch? I'm filing a relatively simple return - just W-2 income and student loan interest deduction. Nothing complicated.

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Paolo Bianchi

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I'd recommend FreeTaxUSA. It's way cheaper than TaxSlayer and I've never had crashing issues even during peak times. Federal filing is free and state is only like $15. Their interface isn't as fancy but it gets the job done reliably.

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Thanks for the suggestion! I'll give TaxSlayer one more day to sort out their issues, then I might switch to FreeTaxUSA. Sounds like it would work fine for my simple tax situation and save me some money too.

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Julia Hall

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I had this exact same issue with TaxSlayer two days ago! Super frustrating, especially after paying for the service. What worked for me was clearing all my browser data (cookies, cache, everything) and then trying again about 6 hours later. I think their servers were just completely overloaded during peak hours. Also, if you're using any ad blockers or privacy extensions, try disabling them temporarily. Some of those can interfere with the final submission process. I know it's annoying to have to wait when you just want to get your taxes done, but from what I've seen on social media, most people who waited 12-24 hours were able to submit successfully without having to start over. Don't do the chargeback yet - you'll likely be able to complete your return once their server issues are resolved!

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Emma Wilson

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This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with the same TaxSlayer crash issue right now and was getting ready to panic. Good to know that clearing browser data might help - I hadn't thought to try that. I'll definitely try disabling my ad blocker too since I do have a pretty aggressive one running. Thanks for sharing what worked for you, it gives me hope that I won't have to start completely over with a different service!

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Carmen Ruiz

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Hey, one thing nobody's mentioned - even if he's not on the birth certificate, has he established legal paternity any other way? In my state, unmarried fathers have to file an acknowledgment of paternity before they have any legal rights to the child at all. If he hasn't legally established paternity, he might not even be able to claim the child regardless of the custody situation. Just something else to consider.

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This is a really good point! My brother went through something similar. The mom wouldn't put him on the birth certificate, and he had to legally establish paternity before he could even file for any custody rights or visitation. The tax stuff was completely off the table until that was resolved.

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Kiara Greene

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Based on what you've described, your ex doesn't have a strong case at all. The IRS uses the "qualifying child" test, and the key factor is where your son lived for more than half the year - which is clearly with you. The birth certificate situation actually works in your favor here because it raises questions about whether he's even established legal paternity. I'd recommend documenting everything: keep a calendar showing exactly which days your son is with each of you, save receipts for expenses you're covering, and maybe consider getting a formal custody agreement to make everything official. If he tries to claim your son anyway, you can dispute it with the IRS, but having clear documentation will make that process much smoother. The fact that he wasn't present for the birth and isn't on the certificate, combined with your son living with you full-time except for every other weekend, makes this a pretty clear-cut case in your favor from a tax perspective.

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Everybody's focusing on the support test, but don't forget the residency requirement! For a qualifying relative who is not related by blood or marriage (like a girlfriend/boyfriend), they have to live with you as a member of your household for the ENTIRE year. But since you mentioned brother and brother-in-law relationships, those fall under the eligible relationship categories in Publication 501, so the residency requirement doesn't apply to you. You only need to meet the support and income tests.

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Yuki Watanabe

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Both of you are wrong. A brother-in-law is specifically listed in Publication 501 as a qualifying relative who DOESN'T have to live with you. The member-of-household test only applies to people not related by blood or marriage. Brother-in-law is a relationship by marriage, so they don't need to live with you the whole year.

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Lola Perez

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@Yuki Watanabe is correct here. According to IRS Publication 501, a brother-in-law is specifically listed as a qualifying relative who does NOT need to meet the member-of-household test. The relationship by marriage is sufficient. So for Diego s'situation, he only needs to worry about the support test and gross income test - not whether he lived with his family for the entire year. The key issue remains whether his family will provide more than 50% of his total annual support, including what he paid for himself in the first half of the year.

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Caleb Stone

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Diego, based on everything discussed here, it sounds like you have two main paths forward depending on how the numbers work out: **Option 1**: If your family can provide more than 50% of your total annual support (including what you paid yourself Jan-June), you could qualify as their dependent. This would help them with healthcare subsidies, but you'd need to be claimed on their return. **Option 2**: If the support test doesn't work out, you could file your own return and potentially qualify for significant healthcare premium tax credits based on your low income. With income under $5,900, you'd likely qualify for substantial subsidies - possibly covering most of your premium costs. I'd recommend calculating both scenarios to see which provides the better overall tax benefit for your family situation. You might want to use one of the tools mentioned here or speak with an IRS agent to get official confirmation of your calculations before making the final decision. The good news is that either way, someone in your family should be able to get healthcare assistance - it's just a matter of optimizing who claims what!

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Amina Toure

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This is really helpful advice! I hadn't considered that I might actually get better healthcare subsidies filing on my own versus being claimed as a dependent. Since my income will be so low this year, it sounds like I could potentially get most of my premiums covered if I file independently. I think I'll run the numbers both ways before deciding. Do you know if there's a deadline for making this choice, or can we wait until we actually file the returns next year to decide which approach gives us the better outcome?

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm in a similar situation but with a twist - I buy vintage electronics from US estate sales and auctions, then sell them to collectors in Japan and Germany through online marketplaces like eBay and specialized forums. Like Anastasia, my contracts specify that ownership transfers when items leave my US shipping location, but I'm wondering if the fact that I'm using international shipping platforms changes anything about the sourcing determination. The platforms handle some of the payment processing and currency conversion, so I'm not sure if that creates any complications. Also, does anyone know if there are different considerations when you're selling collectibles versus regular retail products? The items I sell are often unique pieces, not mass-produced inventory, so I'm curious if the IRS has different rules for this type of business model.

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The shipping platform shouldn't change the sourcing determination as long as your contracts still specify that title transfers when items leave your US location. The platforms are just facilitating payment and logistics - the underlying legal transfer of ownership is what matters for IRS purposes. As for collectibles vs. regular retail, the general sourcing rules still apply the same way. The IRS doesn't typically distinguish between unique items and mass-produced goods when determining where income is sourced. What matters is where the sale legally occurs (title transfer), not the nature of the items being sold. However, since you're dealing with higher-value unique items, you might want to be extra careful about documenting your contracts and title transfer terms. The IRS could scrutinize unique/collectible sales more closely than routine inventory transactions, especially if the values are significant.

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Omar Hassan

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I've been following this discussion closely since I'm dealing with a somewhat similar situation. I import handmade crafts from artisans in Mexico and Guatemala, then sell them at craft fairs and farmers markets here in California. What's interesting about this thread is how consistent everyone's advice has been about the title transfer rule. My tax preparer told me the same thing - it's all about where legal ownership passes to the buyer, not where the goods originated or where payments come from. One thing I'd add for anyone in similar situations: keep really detailed records of your contracts and shipping documentation. The IRS wants to see clear evidence of where title transfers, especially if your business grows and you get audited. I learned this the hard way when I had to reconstruct my records for last year's return because I hadn't been documenting the transfer terms properly. @Anastasia - based on everything discussed here, it sounds like you're in good shape with your contracts specifying title transfer in the US. That should make your sourcing determination pretty straightforward for tax purposes.

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Quinn Herbert

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This is really valuable advice about keeping detailed records! I'm actually just starting to scale my business and hadn't thought much about audit-proofing my documentation. @Omar - when you mention "clear evidence of where title transfers," what specific documents did you find most important to maintain? I have my sales contracts, but I'm wondering if I should also be keeping shipping receipts, warehouse release forms, or other paperwork that shows when items physically left my possession. Also, did your tax preparer give you any guidance on how long to retain these records? I know the general rule is usually 3-7 years for tax documents, but I'm not sure if international sales create any special record-keeping requirements.

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Short-term rental tax question: Can I just depreciate all purchases instead of separating deductible items?

So I bought a vacation rental property about 8 months ago and I've spent roughly $75k getting it set up and ready for guests. This includes everything from major furniture purchases and some minor renovations to endless small items like bedding, kitchenware, cleaning supplies, and all those little things you need to stock a rental. My understanding is that larger items (furniture, appliances, etc.) should be depreciated over time, while smaller stuff like consumables and linens should be expensed/deducted immediately. The problem is that most of my shopping trips and credit card statements have a complete mix of both types of purchases all jumbled together. I have receipts from places like Home Depot, Wayfair, and Target where I bought both large furniture and small items in the same transaction. The property is currently operating at a significant loss, and I know these losses will be carried forward regardless of how I categorize expenses. But honestly, trying to go through and separate every single item into "depreciate" vs "deduct" categories seems like an accounting nightmare. Since depreciation spreads the tax benefit over many years (5-7 years for furniture, longer for improvements), wouldn't it actually be WORSE for me to depreciate everything? If I'm willing to accept this less favorable treatment, can I simply categorize that entire $75k as capitalized/depreciable expenses to save myself the headache of separating everything out? Is this even allowed?

Another quick tip - consider using an expense tracking app specifically for vacation rentals throughout the year. I use one called Stessa that connects to my credit cards and bank accounts. When I buy something, I immediately categorize it in the app as either an operating expense or a capital improvement/depreciable asset. Takes seconds and saves massive headaches at tax time!

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Zara Rashid

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That's a good tip! Do you find it accurately categorizes most expenses automatically or do you have to manually sort most things? And how does it handle mixed receipts where I buy both types of items in one transaction?

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It does attempt some automatic categorization based on the vendor, but for mixed receipts, you'll need to split the transaction manually. What I usually do is take a photo of the receipt right after purchase, then when I'm back home, I'll go through and split any mixed transactions into their proper categories. For example, if I spend $500 at Home Depot and $300 was for a new refrigerator (depreciable) while $200 was for cleaning supplies (immediate expense), I just split the transaction and categorize each part properly. Takes a bit of discipline to keep up with, but WAY easier than sorting through a year's worth of receipts at tax time!

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Nathan Kim

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I'm dealing with a similar situation with my vacation rental startup costs! One thing that might help is looking into Section 195 startup expense deductions. You can elect to deduct up to $5,000 in startup costs immediately (with the remainder amortized over 15 years), but this phases out if your total startup costs exceed $50,000. Since you mentioned spending $75k, you might not qualify for the immediate deduction, but understanding how startup costs vs. ongoing operating expenses are treated could help you categorize things properly. Items purchased to get the property "ready for guests" might fall under startup costs rather than regular rental expenses. Also, don't forget about the passive activity loss rules - even though you mentioned losses will carry forward, make sure you understand the $25,000 annual rental loss allowance if your AGI is under $100k. This could impact whether immediate expensing vs. depreciation matters more in your specific situation.

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Chloe Davis

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This is really helpful information about Section 195! I hadn't even considered that some of my initial $75k in expenses might qualify as startup costs rather than regular rental expenses. Since I'm over the $50k threshold, I'm assuming I won't get the immediate $5,000 deduction, but understanding the 15-year amortization could still be valuable. Quick question - how do I determine what counts as "startup costs" versus regular operating expenses? For example, would the initial furniture purchases to furnish the property be considered startup costs since they were needed to get the rental ready, or would they still be regular depreciable assets? And does it matter that I've already been renting the property for several months now? Also, thanks for mentioning the passive activity loss rules. My AGI is definitely under $100k, so that $25,000 allowance could make a real difference in whether I prioritize immediate expensing or depreciation for borderline items.

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