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Just FYI as a tax preparer, bring ALL your medical receipts to your appointment, not just COBRA. Many people forget about mileage to medical appointments (17 cents per mile for 2024), prescription costs, dental expenses, eye care, medical equipment, etc. Every dollar helps get you closer to that 7.5% threshold.
Oh wow I didn't know about the mileage thing! Does that include therapy appointments too?
Great question about COBRA and taxes! Just wanted to add one important point that might help you save money - if you have any self-employment income from your freelance work, you might qualify for the self-employed health insurance deduction for your COBRA premiums. This is WAY better than the itemized medical expense deduction because it's an above-the-line deduction (meaning it reduces your AGI directly) and you can still take the standard deduction. Since you mentioned having 1099 income, definitely ask your tax preparer about this. The self-employed health insurance deduction lets you deduct health insurance premiums (including COBRA) as long as you have net self-employment income and you're not eligible for coverage through your spouse's employer plan. Given that you're both on COBRA, this could be a huge tax saver. For documentation, bring your 1099s showing the freelance income and all your COBRA payment records. The preparer can determine if this applies to your situation - it could potentially save you way more than trying to meet that 7.5% AGI threshold for itemized medical expenses!
This is really helpful info about the self-employed health insurance deduction! I had no idea this was even an option. Just to clarify - does the freelance income have to be from the same year as the COBRA payments? And what if the self-employment income is less than what we paid in COBRA premiums - can we still deduct the full amount or only up to the income amount? Also wondering if there are any other requirements we need to meet beyond having the 1099 income. This could definitely change our whole tax strategy if we qualify!
Has anyone considered how the inherited IRA distributions might affect other tax situations like IRMAA surcharges for Medicare? My parents are dealing with this now and it's messing with their planning.
Yes! This happened to my mom last year. She took a large distribution from an inherited IRA and it pushed her MAGI (Modified Adjusted Gross Income) over the threshold, resulting in higher Medicare premiums two years later. The premium increase was around $170/month! Definitely something to consider if you're near Medicare age or already on Medicare.
There's also potential impacts on Social Security taxation too. Up to 85% of your Social Security benefits can become taxable if your provisional income exceeds certain thresholds. Since inherited IRA distributions count toward that calculation, it's another factor to consider when planning your distribution strategy.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the timing strategy for your distributions. Since you're subject to the 10-year rule, you don't necessarily have to take equal distributions each year - you could potentially take larger amounts in years when your income is lower. For example, if you expect a lower income year due to job changes, sabbatical, or early retirement, that might be an optimal time to take larger distributions from the inherited IRA. This could help you avoid being pushed into higher tax brackets. Also, regarding your 529 plan question - while the inherited IRA distributions will be taxable to you, once that money goes into a 529 plan, it grows tax-free and withdrawals for qualified education expenses are also tax-free. So even though you can't avoid the initial tax hit, you're setting up tax-free growth for your kids' education expenses, which is still a solid strategy. You might want to run some projections showing different distribution scenarios across the 10-year period to see which approach minimizes your overall tax burden. The tools others mentioned here could help with that analysis.
This is really helpful advice about timing distributions strategically! I'm curious though - are there any restrictions on when during the year you can take distributions from an inherited IRA? For instance, if I know I'll have a lower income year, can I wait until December to take a large distribution, or do I need to spread it throughout the year? Also, does it matter for tax purposes if I take the distribution early in the year versus late in the year, as long as it's all within the same tax year?
I think everyone is overcomplicating this. If you're just selling a few items each month for a total of under $100 profit, the IRS honestly has bigger fish to fry. Millions of people have garage sales or sell used items without reporting every penny. As long as you're not making thousands or consistently growing this into a business, I wouldn't stress about it.
This is terrible advice. The law doesn't have a "the IRS has bigger fish to fry" exemption. Just because you might not get caught doesn't mean it's legal to skip reporting income. OP should follow the actual tax laws.
I appreciate everyone's detailed responses here! As someone who's been through this exact situation, I want to emphasize that even small amounts of income should be reported - it's not worth the risk of penalties later. The key distinction between hobby vs. business that Aliyah mentioned is crucial. Since you're actively buying items with the intent to resell for profit and doing this consistently each month, you're likely operating as a small business even without formal licensing. The IRS looks at your intent and activities, not just the dollar amounts. My recommendation would be to start treating this as a business now: keep detailed records of what you buy, sell, and any expenses (gas for thrift store trips, packaging materials, etc.). File Schedule C and take advantage of legitimate business deductions. Even at your current scale, proper record-keeping will save you headaches and potentially money on your taxes. Also, be aware that if you're selling through any online platforms, you might hit that $600 1099-K threshold sooner than you think when you factor in shipping costs that buyers pay you. Better to be prepared and compliant from the start!
This is really helpful advice, Eve! I'm actually in a similar situation - just started reselling some items I find at estate sales. The record keeping part seems overwhelming though. Do you have any recommendations for simple ways to track everything? Like, should I be taking photos of receipts, using spreadsheets, or is there some app that makes this easier? I'm worried I'll mess up the bookkeeping and get in trouble later.
@Chloe Martin Your strategy of using retirement contributions to get below the 0% threshold is brilliant! As someone who's done exactly this, I can confirm it works really well. I was in a similar situation last year - income of about $51,000 that put me just over the threshold. I increased my 401(k) contributions by an extra $200/month for the last few months of the year, plus maxed out my HSA. Between those two moves, I got my taxable income down to around $46,500, which gave me about $1,600 of room in the 0% bracket. I used that space to sell some Apple shares I'd held since 2020, saving me about $240 in taxes (15% of $1,600). The math worked out perfectly - the tax savings from the 0% capital gains treatment exceeded what I might have gained from having that extra money in tax-deferred accounts for just a few months. One tip: if you're going to try this strategy, make sure to calculate it early in the year so you can spread out those extra 401(k) contributions. I waited until October to figure this out and had to make some pretty large contributions in the last few months to hit my target income level. The HSA angle is especially smart since that money is triple tax-advantaged (deductible going in, grows tax-free, tax-free withdrawals for medical expenses). Definitely worth maxing that out first before increasing 401(k) contributions if you're trying to optimize your taxable income level.
This is such smart strategic thinking! I'm new to this level of tax planning, but the way you've laid out using retirement contributions to optimize your capital gains bracket makes perfect sense. I'm curious about the timing aspect you mentioned - when you say "calculate it early in the year," do you mean you should estimate your total income and dividend payments at the beginning of the year, then figure out how much extra you need to contribute to retirement accounts to get below the threshold? Also, for someone just starting this kind of planning, would you recommend prioritizing the HSA max-out first since it's triple tax-advantaged, then seeing if additional 401(k) contributions are needed to hit the target income level? I have both accounts available but wasn't thinking about them as tax planning tools beyond their basic benefits. Your example of saving $240 in capital gains taxes really helps put this in perspective - that's meaningful money for relatively simple planning adjustments!
This thread has been incredibly educational for someone just getting started with tax-advantaged investing! I'm a single filer making about $46,000 annually, and I've been holding some ETF positions for over a year that have appreciated nicely. What really opened my eyes was learning that capital gains stack ON TOP of your regular income rather than being calculated separately. I was definitely in the camp of people who thought my $46k salary left me with plenty of room in the 0% bracket, without considering how dividends and the gains themselves would fill up that "bucket." I've been tracking my quarterly dividend payments since reading this discussion, and I'm already at about $1,400 for the year from various index funds. So realistically, I probably only have around $700 of space left in the 0% bracket ($48,100 - $46,000 - $1,400 = $700). That's way less than I initially thought! The strategic retirement contribution approach that @Sofia Price mentioned is fascinating. I hadn't considered using my 401(k) contributions as a tool to optimize my taxable income for capital gains purposes. I'm already contributing enough to get my employer match, but increasing contributions to create more 0% bracket space could be a smart move. One thing I'm still wrapping my head around is the timing of everything. If I want to implement this strategy for 2025, should I be planning my increased retirement contributions now, or wait until later in the year when I have a better picture of my actual dividend income? The balance between locking in a strategy early vs. staying flexible seems tricky to navigate. Thanks to everyone who shared their real-world examples - this community is amazing for practical tax planning advice!
@Zara Malik Your situation is really similar to mine when I first started getting serious about tax planning! With $46k income and $1,400 in dividends, you re'absolutely right that you only have about $700 left in the 0% bracket - it s'amazing how those quarterly dividends add up without you realizing it. For timing, I d'recommend doing a rough plan now but staying flexible. Here s'what worked for me: I estimated my total dividend income for the year based on the first quarter multiply (by 4, then add a small buffer ,)then planned my retirement contributions accordingly. But I kept checking quarterly and adjusting if needed. Since you re'already getting your employer match, any additional 401 k(contributions) would be pure tax strategy. Even bumping up by $100-200 per month could give you meaningful additional space in that 0% bracket. The key is starting early in the year so you re'not scrambling with huge contributions in December. One thing to consider: with only $700 of current space, you might want to focus on smaller, strategic sales this year while building up more bracket space through retirement contributions for next year. Sometimes it s'better to play the long game rather than trying to optimize everything in a single year. The fact that you re'thinking about this systematically puts you way ahead of most investors! Keep tracking those dividends and you ll'be surprised how much you can save over time.
LunarLegend
I actually DIY'd my Form 3115 last year for the exact same reason - switching from accrual to cash basis because of the 1099 mismatch headaches. It's definitely doable, but you need to be methodical about it. A few things that helped me: 1. **Timing is crucial** - You're cutting it close at mid-January, but it's still doable. Form 3115 must be filed with your timely filed return (including extensions), so you have until the tax deadline. 2. **The Section 481(a) adjustment calculation** - This was the trickiest part. You'll subtract your AR (since you already paid tax on income not yet received) and add your AP (expenses you haven't deducted yet but will pay). Don't forget about accrued expenses like utilities, rent, or other bills you owe but haven't paid. 3. **Documentation is key** - Pull your AR/AP aging reports from QuickBooks as of 12/31/2024 and keep detailed records. The IRS may ask for supporting documentation later. 4. **TurboTax handling** - Look for Form 3115 in the "Less Common Forms" section. The Section 481(a) adjustment flows through to your Schedule C automatically once you enter it correctly. 5. **Filing process** - E-file your return normally, then mail Form 3115 to the IRS National Office in Ogden, UT within a reasonable time. Include a cover letter referencing your e-filed return. The whole process took me about 6 hours spread over a weekend, but it was worth it to avoid the ongoing accrual headaches. Just take your time with the calculations and double-check everything.
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Zara Khan
ā¢This is really helpful, thank you! The 6-hour timeframe makes it seem much more manageable than I was expecting. Quick question about the accrued expenses you mentioned - I put almost everything on credit cards for tracking purposes. Should I be looking at my December 2024 credit card statement for unpaid balances, or actual invoices I received but haven't paid yet? I'm trying to figure out what counts as "AP" in my situation since most of my expenses go through cards that I pay off monthly. Also, when you mailed Form 3115 to Ogden, did you use certified mail or just regular mail? Want to make sure there's proof they received it.
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Victoria Brown
ā¢For credit card expenses, you'll want to look at charges that were incurred in December 2024 but not yet paid by 12/31/2024. If you pay your cards monthly, check your December statement closing date. Any charges after that date (but before 12/31) that weren't paid until January 2025 would count as AP for your 481(a) adjustment. For example, if your December statement closed on 12/15 and was paid in December, but you had additional charges from 12/16-12/31 that weren't paid until January, those would be your accrued expenses. I definitely used certified mail with return receipt for Form 3115. It's worth the extra few dollars for peace of mind, especially since there's no way to track whether the IRS received it otherwise. The Ogden office processes thousands of these forms, so having proof of delivery can save you headaches later if there are any questions about timing. Also keep a copy of everything you send - the form, cover letter, and certified mail receipt. The IRS sometimes takes months to process Form 3115, so having your own records is essential.
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William Schwarz
I went through this exact same situation two years ago with my consulting business. The DIY approach for Form 3115 is definitely manageable if you're methodical about it, but there are a few critical details that can trip you up. First, your CPA's advice is solid - the steps he outlined are correct. However, I'd add a few things based on my experience: **Before you start:** Make sure you qualify for the automatic consent procedure. As a service business under $25M in gross receipts with no inventory, you should be fine, but double-check that you haven't made this change in the past 5 years. **The 481(a) adjustment calculation:** This is where most DIYers mess up. You need to be very precise about what counts. For your situation: - Subtract ALL AR as of 12/31/2024 (money owed to you that you already paid tax on under accrual) - Add ALL AP as of 12/31/2024 (money you owe for expenses you haven't deducted yet) - Don't forget accrued expenses like utilities, rent, or other bills **TurboTax specifics:** The Form 3115 is in the "Less Common Forms" section. When you enter your 481(a) adjustment, make sure you select whether it's positive or negative correctly. A negative adjustment (which you'll likely have) reduces your current year taxable income. **Filing logistics:** You CAN e-file your return with TurboTax, but you must also mail Form 3115 to the IRS National Office in Ogden, UT. Use certified mail and include a cover letter referencing your e-filed return. Do this within a few days of e-filing. Given that it's mid-January, you have time but shouldn't delay much longer. The form needs to be filed with your timely filed return. If you're organized and have clean books, plan on 4-6 hours total to complete everything properly.
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Rita Jacobs
ā¢This is exactly the kind of detailed guidance I was hoping for! Your point about the 5-year rule is something I hadn't considered - I've only been in business since 2021 and have never changed accounting methods before, so I should be clear there. One follow-up question about the AP calculation: I'm trying to figure out how to handle my business credit card that I use for almost all expenses. Let's say I had $3,500 in business charges in December 2024, but my statement closed on 12/20 and I paid that balance before year-end. Then I had another $800 in charges from 12/21-12/31 that didn't get paid until January 2025. Would only that $800 count as AP for the 481(a) adjustment? Or do I need to look at it differently since technically the credit card company paid the vendors and I owe the credit card company? Also, when you mention "within a few days of e-filing" for mailing Form 3115, is there an actual deadline for this? I want to make sure I don't mess up the timing and invalidate the whole thing.
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