Yes, points are subject to the same debt limitation rules as regular mortgage interest! If your mortgage exceeds the $750k acquisition debt limit, you need to apply the same proportional calculation to any points you paid. So if only 75% of your mortgage balance is deductible due to the limit, then only 75% of your points would be deductible too. After my initial mess-up, I actually did try one of the automated tools mentioned here and it was a lifesaver. It caught several nuances I would have missed doing it manually - like properly allocating the points and making sure I was applying the right dates for when payments were actually due versus when I closed on each property. The tool also helped me realize that some of my September payments were actually for August interest (since mortgage payments are typically made in arrears), which affected how I needed to calculate the overlap period. These kinds of timing details can really throw off your calculations if you're not careful about them.

Great question about the points! Yes, if your mortgage exceeds the $750k acquisition debt limit, you do need to apply the same proportional limitation to any points you paid. The IRS treats points as prepaid mortgage interest, so they're subject to the same debt limitations as regular mortgage interest payments. For example, if only 75% of your mortgage balance falls under the $750k limit, then only 75% of the points would be deductible in the year you paid them (assuming you qualify for immediate deduction rather than amortization). After my initial mess-up, I ended up doing the calculations manually because I wanted to understand exactly how everything worked. But honestly, after reading about the tools mentioned here like taxr.ai, I wish I'd known about them at the time. It would have saved me hours of double-checking my math and cross-referencing Publication 936. The manual approach worked, but it was definitely the hard way to learn! Make sure you keep the HUD-1 or closing disclosure that shows exactly how much you paid in points - you'll need that documentation if you ever get audited.

Thanks for sharing your timeline - this is exactly what I needed to hear! I've been stuck with just the 810 code for about 4 weeks now and was starting to worry something was seriously wrong. The "pre-processing hold" explanation makes so much sense and helps me understand why my transcript looks so empty compared to previous years. I attempted the online verification twice but it kept redirecting me to call, which has been a nightmare with the wait times. After reading your success story, I'm going to try the online route one more time this weekend when I have more patience to work through any technical issues. It's reassuring to know that once you clear verification, things move relatively quickly. I was worried this could drag on for months, but 2-3 weeks for processing to begin sounds much more manageable. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience - it really helps those of us stuck in this limbo understand what to expect!

I found that trying the online verification during off-peak hours helped a lot! I had the same issue where it kept redirecting me to call, but when I tried around 6 AM on a Saturday, the system let me complete the whole process online without any issues. I think you're right that server load plays a big role. The whole experience was actually pretty straightforward once I got through - just had to answer some identity verification questions based on my credit history and previous tax returns. The system accepted my responses immediately and gave me a confirmation that my identity was verified. Just like others mentioned, it took about 2.5 weeks after verification for my transcript to start showing actual processing codes. Hang in there - you're almost through the worst part of the waiting! The relief when you finally see those codes start appearing is amazing.

This is good advice but seems really time consuming. How long did it take you to document 300 items this way? I'm looking at closer to 600 items and wondering if it's even worth the tax deduction with that much work.

@Oliver Zimmermann It honestly took me about 2-3 hours total spread over several weeks as I was packing things up. The key is doing it as you go rather than all at once. I d'spend 15-20 minutes each weekend photographing and cataloging whatever I d'sorted that week. For 600 items, you re'probably looking at maybe 4-5 hours total if you re'efficient about it. Given that I saved about $8,000 in taxes on my donations, that worked out to roughly $1,600+ per hour of documentation time - definitely worth it! Plus having everything organized made filling out Form 8283 a breeze instead of a nightmare. The alternative is either not taking the deductions losing (thousands or) scrambling at tax time trying to remember what you donated where and (possibly making mistakes that could trigger an audit .)The upfront time investment is totally worth the peace of mind and tax savings.

@AstroAlpha There isn't a specific published threshold that I know of, but from what I've read and experienced, it's more about the pattern and proportionality. Claiming $40k in donations when your AGI is $50k would definitely raise eyebrows, but if you're making $200k+ and spreading it across 5-6 established charities over the course of a year, that looks much more reasonable. For the informal appraisals, I found a local estate sale appraiser who was willing to do "drive-by" valuations for $50-75 per item if I brought multiple items at once. Not cheap, but for a few potentially valuable pieces it was worth the peace of mind. Some antique shops will also give you informal written estimates for free if you're upfront that you're looking for donation valuation (they're hoping you might sell to them instead). Another option is online appraisal services - there are several that do photo-based appraisals for $25-50 per item. Obviously not as thorough as in-person, but sufficient documentation to show you made a good-faith effort at accurate valuation.

@AstroAlpha There's no specific percentage threshold that I know of, but from what I've read, the IRS looks at patterns. Claiming $30k+ to a single small charity you've never donated to before is more likely to get attention than spreading that same amount across 5-10 established organizations you have a history with. For informal appraisals, I found a couple approaches that worked: First, some antique dealers will give you a quick verbal estimate for $25-50 if you bring the item in. Second, there are online appraisal services like ValueMyStuff that charge $15-30 for basic items. Not "qualified appraisals" for IRS purposes, but good enough documentation to show you made a reasonable effort at valuation. Another option is to ask at local auction houses - they often have experts who can give you a ballpark range in just a few minutes, especially if you're polite and explain it's for donation documentation. Most were surprisingly helpful when I explained the situation.

Amending a tax return isn't too complicated, but it does require some paperwork. You'd file Form 1040X (Amended U.S. Individual Income Tax Return) to correct any discrepancies between what you initially reported and what the official 1099-B shows. The key is keeping detailed records of what you file initially versus what the official form shows. Most of the time, if you're careful with your transaction history calculations, the differences are minimal - maybe some rounding or slightly different cost basis adjustments. However, I'd recommend trying the other suggestions in this thread first (like contacting Robinhood through Claimyr or using taxr.ai to double-check your calculations) before filing with incomplete information. Filing an amendment isn't difficult, but it can delay any refund and sometimes triggers additional IRS review. If you do need to file before getting the official forms, make sure to attach a statement explaining that you're using preliminary data and will amend if necessary once you receive the complete tax documents.

Filing an amended return (Form 1040X) isn't too complicated, but it does involve some paperwork and can delay any refund you might be expecting. The IRS typically takes 8-12 weeks to process amended returns. That said, if you're careful with your transaction history calculations, discrepancies are usually minimal - maybe a few dollars due to rounding or how Robinhood handles fractional shares. The bigger risk is missing the filing deadline entirely. If you do decide to file with your transaction history, I'd recommend being extra thorough: download all monthly statements, double-check your cost basis calculations (especially for any stocks you bought and sold multiple times), and make sure you're accounting for any wash sale adjustments. Most tax software can help with these calculations if you input the data carefully. You could also consider filing for an extension to buy yourself more time, though you'd still need to estimate and pay any taxes owed by the April deadline.

Having a US bank account for your J-1 stipend definitely won't hurt your closer connection claim! The IRS understands that students and interns need local banking for practical reasons. What matters more is the overall pattern of your ties - sounds like you maintained your home country residence, family connections, and financial accounts there, which are all positive factors. I actually did have to file an amended return my first year because I initially filed as a non-resident when I should have been a resident. The IRS was pretty understanding since visa status calculations are genuinely complex, but it did delay my refund by several months. That's why I always recommend getting it right the first time if possible! The I-94 website is a lifesaver - make sure to print or save screenshots of all your entries/exits since the system only keeps records for a limited time. You'll want those exact dates for any future tax filings too. One more tip: if you do end up qualifying for resident status but want to claim closer connection, make sure you have documentation ready to support your home country ties (bank statements, lease agreements, family ties, etc.) in case the IRS has questions later. Better to be over-prepared with this stuff!

Opening a US bank account for your J-1 stipend shouldn't hurt your closer connection claim at all! That's considered a practical necessity for receiving your program payments, not an indication of permanent ties. The IRS looks at the bigger picture - where your permanent home, family, personal belongings, and primary financial/social connections are located. What matters more for the closer connection test is things like: Where do you vote? Where are your main investment/savings accounts? Where do you plan to return after your program? Where is your permanent residence? It sounds like most of these factors point to your home country. I was lucky and got it right the first time, but only because I worked with a CPA who specialized in international student taxes from the beginning. The key was having all my I-94 records and a clear timeline of my visa history before our first meeting. One more tip: when you pull your I-94 records, pay attention to any discrepancies between your passport stamps and the electronic records. Sometimes there are differences that can affect your day counts. Also, if you traveled outside the US during any of your visa periods, those exit/re-entry dates will show up and can actually help your case by reducing your total US presence days. Getting professional help upfront is definitely worth it - the cost of a good international tax specialist is usually much less than the potential penalties from filing incorrectly or missing beneficial elections like the closer connection exception.