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My husband and I were in a similar situation but with accounts in Europe totaling about ā¬60k. We filed both FBAR and 8938 for years because our accountant said it was "better safe than sorry." This year we switched accountants and they told us we never needed the 8938! We asked about amending previous returns to remove the unnecessary forms but were advised it wasn't worth the effort since there's no penalty for over-reporting. Apparently the IRS doesn't issue refunds for the extra accounting fees we paid all those years š
Did your new accountant charge less since they didn't have to file the 8938? I'm curious because I'm paying my accountant about $400 extra for "international reporting" and now I'm wondering if I actually need all the forms they're filing.
Yes, our new accountant charges about $150 less per year since they don't prepare the unnecessary Form 8938. They explained that the FBAR filing is actually free (it's filed directly with FinCEN), so we were essentially paying extra for a form we didn't need. I'd suggest asking your accountant to break down exactly what forms they're filing for your "international reporting" fee. If your foreign assets are under the thresholds, you might only need the FBAR, which shouldn't add much to your tax prep costs since it's a relatively simple form.
Based on everyone's experiences here, it sounds like you're in good shape! I went through something very similar last year - had about $65k in foreign accounts and my accountant filed both FBAR and Form 8938 even though I was below the 8938 threshold. I was worried about the same things you mentioned, but after reading through IRS publications and speaking with a tax attorney, I learned that over-reporting foreign assets is actually quite common and not problematic at all. The IRS sees it frequently, especially from cautious preparers who want to ensure full compliance. The key thing is that your information is consistent across both forms, which creates a clean paper trail. Your voluntary late FBAR filings before any IRS contact also puts you in the best possible position penalty-wise. One thing I'd suggest is asking your accountant for next year - now that you understand the thresholds better, you can discuss whether Form 8938 is truly necessary going forward. This could save you some money on preparation fees while still maintaining full compliance with the FBAR requirements.
This is really helpful to hear from someone who went through the exact same situation! I'm curious - when you spoke with the tax attorney, did they mention anything about how long the IRS typically takes to process late FBAR filings? I'm wondering if there's a timeframe after which I can stop worrying about potential penalties. Also, you mentioned asking my accountant about dropping Form 8938 for next year - should I be concerned that this might look inconsistent to the IRS if I suddenly stop filing a form I've been including? Or do they not really track that kind of pattern?
Has anyone tried to use tax software to figure this out? I bought my first house this year too and I'm trying to decide between TurboTax, H&R Block, and FreeTaxUSA for next year. Wondering which one explains the mortgage interest deduction the best for newbies?
I've used both TurboTax and FreeTaxUSA. TurboTax definitely has better explanations and walks you through the mortgage interest deduction more clearly, but it's expensive. FreeTaxUSA gets the job done for much cheaper but with less hand-holding. They both will automatically compare standard vs. itemized and choose what's best for you.
Great question! I went through this same confusion when I bought my house two years ago. Here's what I wish someone had told me upfront: The key number to remember is that standard deduction for married filing jointly in 2024 is $29,200. So you need your mortgage interest + property taxes + state/local taxes (capped at $10K) + any other itemized deductions to exceed that amount. With your $425K house, you're probably looking at around $18K-22K in mortgage interest your first year (depending on your rate). Add your property taxes and you might be close, but probably not quite there unless you have significant charitable donations or other deductions. One thing that helped me was getting my 1098 form from my lender in January - it shows exactly how much interest you paid. Then you can see if itemizing makes sense or if you should just take the standard deduction. As for adjusting withholding - I'd be cautious about that until you're sure you'll be itemizing. It's safer to get a refund than owe money at tax time, especially in your first year of homeownership when there are so many unknowns.
As someone who switched from paper to e-filing last year, I can't stress enough how much easier it makes the whole process. The biggest game-changer for me wasn't even the faster processing time (though getting my refund in 3 weeks instead of 6+ months was amazing) - it was the error checking. When I paper filed, I'd spend hours double and triple-checking my math, worried I'd made a mistake somewhere. With e-filing, the software catches basic errors automatically before you even submit. It'll flag things like mismatched social security numbers, math errors, or missing required forms. Also, if you're worried about security, e-filing is actually safer than mailing sensitive documents. I used to worry about my tax return sitting in a mailbox or getting lost in transit. Electronic transmission is encrypted and you get immediate confirmation that the IRS received it. For someone with a straightforward return like yours (W-2, some interest income, standard deduction), the transition should be really smooth. Most tax software will walk you through everything step by step, and many have free versions for simple returns.
This is really helpful! I'm actually in a similar situation to the original poster - been paper filing for years but starting to think it's time to make the switch. One question though - do you remember roughly how much you paid for the e-filing software? I've been using the free fillable forms from the IRS website for paper filing, so I'm trying to figure out if the convenience is worth the extra cost. Also, when you say the software walks you through everything step by step, does it actually explain WHY certain deductions apply or don't apply? I've always liked understanding my taxes rather than just plugging numbers into boxes.
Great question! I actually started with the same free fillable forms approach, so I totally get the cost concern. For a basic return like yours, you can probably still file for free through the IRS Free File program - it covers most taxpayers with AGI under $73,000 and includes e-filing at no cost. If you don't qualify for Free File, most basic e-filing software runs around $30-60 depending on the provider. I personally think it's worth it for the time savings alone - what used to take me 3-4 hours of careful manual calculation now takes maybe 45 minutes. And yes, the better software definitely explains the "why" behind deductions! It'll ask you interview-style questions and then explain what each deduction means and whether you qualify. For example, instead of just asking for a dollar amount, it might say "Did you pay student loan interest in 2024? This deduction can reduce your taxable income by up to $2,500 if you meet the income requirements." Much more educational than just filling out forms blindly. The software also flags potential deductions you might have missed - I actually got a bigger refund than expected my first year e-filing because it caught a few things I'd been overlooking on paper returns.
I made the switch from paper to e-filing three years ago and honestly wish I'd done it sooner. The processing time difference alone is worth it - I used to wait until September or October to get my refund, now I have it in my account by mid-February. One thing that really convinced me was the audit protection. Most e-filing software includes some level of audit support, and the built-in error checking actually reduces your audit risk compared to paper filing. When you paper file, simple math errors or forgotten signatures can trigger correspondence that looks suspicious to the IRS system. E-filing eliminates most of those issues before submission. For your situation with just W-2 and 1099-INT, you'd probably qualify for free e-filing through the IRS Free File program. Even if you don't, the cost is usually under $50 for basic returns, which pays for itself in the time you save and faster refund processing. The environmental impact was another factor for me - no more printing dozens of pages and mailing thick envelopes. Plus I can access my returns from anywhere if I need them for loan applications or other financial paperwork.
That's a great point about the audit protection - I hadn't really thought about how manual errors could actually increase audit risk. I've been doing my own paper returns for about 8 years now and always stress about making mistakes, especially with the math calculations. The environmental aspect is actually something that matters to me too. I hate how much paper I go through every tax season between printing forms, making copies, and mailing everything. Going digital would definitely align better with trying to reduce my paper waste. One more question - when you mention accessing returns from anywhere for loan applications, how does that work exactly? Do you just log into the software and download PDFs, or is there some other way lenders can verify your tax information electronically?
Be careful about keeping a business technically "open" but dormant for too long. I did this and it created some unexpected complications: 1) Had to keep filing zero-income Schedule C forms each year 2) Some states (like California) have minimum franchise taxes even for inactive businesses 3) Had to maintain certain business licenses and registrations which cost money 4) Created confusion with local tax authorities If you don't realistically expect to restart the business within a year or two, sometimes it's cleaner to just close it properly and start fresh if needed later. Those QBI losses might never be usable if you're fully transitioned to W2 income anyway.
I second this. I kept my LLC "alive" for 3 years after stopping operations and it was a pain. Annual fees, extra tax forms, and explanations to lenders about the "dormant business" on my tax returns when applying for a mortgage. Not worth it unless you have a concrete plan to restart operations.
This is a great discussion that touches on something I dealt with recently. One thing worth considering is the interaction between QBI losses and the overall Section 199A deduction limitation based on your taxable income. Even if you do generate future QBI to offset those carryforward losses, remember that the Section 199A deduction is still limited to 20% of your taxable income minus net capital gains. So if you're earning W2 income and have other deductions that reduce your taxable income significantly, you might not be able to fully utilize the QBI benefit even when you do have positive qualified business income. I learned this the hard way when I started a small side business thinking I could immediately benefit from my old QBI losses. The math worked out differently than I expected because of the taxable income limitation. It's another factor to consider when deciding whether to keep a dormant business alive or just close it cleanly. Also, regarding the state-level complications others mentioned - some states don't follow federal QBI rules at all, so you could be maintaining a business entity for federal tax benefits that don't even apply at the state level where you might owe annual fees or taxes.
This is exactly the kind of nuanced detail that makes QBI planning so tricky! I hadn't fully considered how the taxable income limitation could affect the ability to actually use those carryforward losses even when you do generate QBI again. Your point about state-level differences is particularly important too. It seems like there are so many moving parts to consider - federal QBI rules, state conformity issues, entity maintenance costs, and now the taxable income cap limitations. Makes me wonder if keeping a business technically alive just for potential future QBI benefits is really worth it for most people, especially if they're primarily W2 employees going forward. Did you end up closing your dormant business after realizing the taxable income limitation issue, or did you find ways to work around it?
Keisha Taylor
Just wanted to point out that the IRS sometimes offers penalty relief through their First Time Abatement program if you've had a clean tax record for the past 3 years. Might be worth asking about if this is your first time missing a deadline.
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StardustSeeker
ā¢It's not automatic though. You have to specifically request the first time abatement. The IRS doesn't just offer it up even if you qualify. Definitely worth asking for!
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Anastasia Sokolov
I've been through this exact situation and want to add some practical advice. First, file your return IMMEDIATELY even if you can't pay - the failure-to-file penalty (5% per month) is much worse than the failure-to-pay penalty (0.5% per month). When you do file, make sure to pay whatever you can, even if it's not the full amount. This reduces the balance that penalties and interest accrue on. The IRS also looks more favorably on taxpayers who make good faith efforts to comply. Also, consider requesting penalty abatement when you call. Besides first-time abatement, the IRS can waive penalties for "reasonable cause" - things like serious illness, death in family, natural disasters, or other circumstances beyond your control. Even financial hardship can sometimes qualify. One last tip: if you end up owing a lot in penalties, you can request an installment agreement that includes the penalties and interest in your monthly payment plan. This makes it much more manageable than trying to pay everything at once.
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Abigail Spencer
ā¢This is really helpful advice, especially about filing immediately even if you can't pay the full amount. I'm curious though - when you mention "reasonable cause" for penalty abatement, how specific do you need to be with documentation? Like if someone had a medical issue or family emergency, what kind of proof does the IRS typically want to see?
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