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Has anyone considered asking for a raise instead? I negotiated an extra $2/hour specifically because of required tool expenses. Over a year that's about $4,160 pre-tax which covers most of my tool costs. My manager actually preferred this over dealing with reimbursements.
Smart approach! Did you have to show receipts or anything when negotiating the raise, or did they just take your word for the expenses?
I brought a spreadsheet showing my tool purchases over the previous year along with a list of upcoming tools I'd need to buy. Having that documentation made it a business discussion rather than just asking for more money. I also researched what other shops in the area were paying or offering for tool allowances. The key was framing it as a cost of doing business rather than a personal raise request. I explained how these tools directly improve my efficiency and reduce comebacks, which saves the shop money. That business-focused approach worked much better than when I'd previously just asked for more money without the specific justification.
The frustration here is real - I went through the same thing as a heavy equipment mechanic. After 2017, those unreimbursed employee expense deductions just vanished for W2 workers like us. What I ended up doing was a combination of approaches mentioned here: First, I had a frank conversation with my supervisor about tool allowances using the specific language someone mentioned about "accountable plans." Turns out our company had a policy buried in the employee handbook that allowed up to $1,500/year in tool reimbursements if you filled out the right forms. For the remaining expenses, I started doing small side jobs on weekends - mostly helping neighbors and friends with equipment repairs. I registered as a sole proprietor and now I can legitimately deduct a portion of my tools on Schedule C. The key is keeping meticulous records and making sure it's a real business, not just a tax dodge. Bottom line: the tax code sucks for mechanics right now, but there are still some workarounds if you're willing to do the legwork. Document everything and consider multiple strategies rather than just accepting you can't deduct anything.
This is exactly the kind of comprehensive approach that works! I'm dealing with the same situation as an automotive technician and it's encouraging to see someone actually navigate this successfully. The combination strategy makes a lot of sense - getting what you can from employer reimbursement and then having a legitimate side business for the rest. Quick question about the sole proprietor route - did you need to get any special licensing or permits beyond just registering with the state? I'm worried about liability issues doing side work, especially since I'd be working on people's personal vehicles rather than equipment like you do. Also, how did you handle the conversation with your supervisor about the accountable plan? I'm nervous about bringing it up because I don't want to seem like I'm complaining about my job or asking for special treatment.
I'm going to go against the grain here - I just do the Form 5500-EZ myself every year for my solo 401k. The first year took me about 3 hours to figure out, now it takes maybe 45 minutes. The key is understanding that for a true individual 401k with just you (and maybe spouse), most of the form is much simpler than it looks. Many sections don't apply or can be filled with zeros. The IRS instructions are actually pretty clear if you take the time to read them. And if you make an honest mistake, there's a correction program with reduced penalties.
Thanks for sharing this perspective! How did you learn which parts didn't apply? That's what's intimidating me - I'm afraid of leaving something blank that shouldn't be, or filling in something wrong. Did you use any specific resources beyond the IRS instructions?
I totally understand that intimidation! What helped me was starting with the IRS Publication 5500 instructions and cross-referencing with examples of completed forms online. The Department of Labor website also has some helpful guidance specifically for one-participant plans. The biggest realization for me was that Schedule R (which seems scary) has clear instructions about which lines apply to solo 401ks versus multi-participant plans. Most of the complex sections are for plans with employees, loan features, or multiple investment options that don't apply to basic individual plans. I also kept detailed notes the first year about why I filled each section the way I did - that made subsequent years much faster. If you're still nervous, you could always prepare it yourself as practice and then have a professional review it before filing.
I'm in a similar boat with my solo 401k through Fidelity - just hit the $250k threshold this year and now need to file Form 5500 for the first time. Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful! I'm leaning toward trying one of the online preparation tools first before going the TPA route, since the annual fees seem pretty steep for a one-person plan. The taxr.ai recommendation caught my attention, especially hearing that it explains the reasoning behind each section rather than just filling in blanks. One question for those who've filed before - how strict is the July 31st deadline? I know there's an extension option, but I'm trying to plan out my timeline here. My plan year ended December 31st, so I have a few months, but I don't want to procrastinate and then panic at the last minute. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this community has been way more helpful than my CPA!
Just went through this exact same situation a few months ago! Those codes had me so stressed until I figured out what was going on. The 570 hold code is the scary one that stops your refund, but once you get through the identity verification it should resolve pretty quickly. When you call, definitely try early morning like others suggested - I got through around 8:15 AM on my third try. Make sure you have your prior year AGI, SSN, and filing status ready because they'll ask verification questions right away. The fax process took about 4 weeks for me to see movement on my transcript, then another week for the actual refund deposit. Stay patient and keep checking your transcript every few days - you'll see new codes appear when they start processing your verification docs. The whole thing is super frustrating but you'll get through it! šŖ
This is super helpful! I'm dealing with the same codes right now and it's been such a nightmare. Quick question - when you say it took 4 weeks to see movement on your transcript, did you see any intermediate codes before it fully resolved? I'm at week 2 since faxing and getting anxious about whether they even received my docs. Also, did you fax to the number they gave you over the phone or is there a standard fax number for identity verification? Thanks for sharing your experience! š
I went through this exact same situation last year and it was honestly one of the most stressful experiences dealing with the IRS. Those codes you're seeing - 150, 806, 570, 971 - are actually pretty standard for identity verification cases. The 570 is what's holding up your refund and the 971 means they already sent you that dreaded letter asking for documentation. Here's what worked for me: I called right at 7 AM when the lines opened and got through in about 45 minutes. Have your SSN, last year's AGI, and current address ready because they'll verify your identity before discussing anything. The agent will give you a specific fax number - DON'T use any generic IRS fax numbers you find online, use exactly what they tell you. When faxing, include a cover sheet with your SSN, phone number, and write "IDENTITY VERIFICATION" at the top. I sent my driver's license, Social Security card, and a utility bill. Keep checking your transcript every week - mine took about 6 weeks to show movement with new codes, then another 2 weeks for the actual refund. The waiting is brutal but hang in there! Once you get through this verification process, everything should move pretty smoothly. Good luck! š¤
FYI - sometimes "SR" can mean "Supplemental Rate" too. When I worked at my last job, I had regular medical coverage plus a supplemental critical illness policy, and it showed up exactly like this. "Medical EE" was the base plan and "SR" was the add-on. Worth checking if you have multiple types of coverage.
I think it varies by company too. At my previous job, "SR" meant "Self + Room/Boarder" because I had a domestic partner on my insurance who wasn't legally a spouse. So many different systems all using the same abbreviations for different things!
This thread has been super helpful! I work in benefits administration and can confirm that payroll codes are unfortunately not standardized across companies. "Medical EE - SR" could mean several different things depending on your employer's system: - Employee - Standard Rate (most common) - Employee - Senior Rate (age-based pricing) - Employee - Spouse Rate (family coverage) - Employee - Supplemental Rate (additional coverage) The best approach is definitely to check with your HR department first, as they'll have the specific definitions for your company's codes. If you can't get clear answers there, your insurance card usually has a member services number that can help explain what coverage you're actually paying for. One tip: if you're budgeting, remember that most medical insurance premiums are deducted pre-tax, which reduces your taxable income. So while you see the deduction on your gross pay, it's actually saving you money on taxes compared to paying the same amount out-of-pocket after taxes.
Hannah White
Stupid question maybe but is this the same for crypto transactions? My 1099-B from Coinbase has some transactions marked as "noncovered" but has cost basis for most of them.
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Ryan Kim
ā¢Not a stupid question at all! Crypto is actually treated similarly but with some key differences. The reporting requirements for cryptocurrency have been evolving, but generally, crypto transactions on your 1099-B that are marked "noncovered" follow the same principle - the basis isn't being reported to the IRS even if it's on your form. However, there's an important distinction: cryptocurrency doesn't follow the same covered/noncovered security date rules as stocks. The classification is more about whether the exchange had sufficient information to calculate an accurate basis. Either way, you should report the basis yourself on Form 8949 with the appropriate codes.
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Aisha Ali
This is a really common source of confusion, and you're definitely not alone in wondering about this! The key thing to understand is that "noncovered security" refers to the broker's reporting obligation to the IRS, not what appears on your copy of the 1099-B. Even though your broker filled in the basis amount on your form, because it's marked as "noncovered," they are NOT required to (and likely did not) report that basis information to the IRS. This typically happens with securities acquired before 2011 or transferred between brokers without proper basis tracking. You'll need to report the basis yourself on Form 8949. Use code "B" in column (f) for short-term gains/losses or code "E" for long-term. This tells the IRS you're providing basis information for a noncovered security. Since you mentioned these were stocks from your grandpa, make sure you're using the correct basis. If they were gifted to you while he was alive, you generally use his original cost basis. The basis amount your broker shows might not be accurate for gifted securities, so you may need to do some research to find the correct amount. Keep all your documentation - gift records, any basis information you can find, etc. - in case you need to substantiate your basis calculation later.
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Zara Perez
ā¢This is exactly the clarification I needed! I was so confused about why they would fill in the basis but then mark it as noncovered. It makes sense now that it's about their reporting obligation to the IRS, not what they show me on my copy. I'll definitely need to dig up the original gift documentation to make sure I'm using the right basis amount. My grandpa was pretty good about keeping records, so hopefully I can find what his original cost was. Thanks for explaining the Form 8949 codes too - that part always seemed intimidating but knowing to use code "E" for long-term makes it clearer. One follow-up question though - if I can't find his original basis records, is there any way to estimate or research what he might have paid? Or do I need to have exact documentation?
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