


Ask the community...
Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting something like this? I'm trying to figure out where exactly to enter all this information when I file.
I used TurboTax last year for a similar situation. You'll need to fill out Form 8949 and Schedule D. In TurboTax, go to the investment income section and look for "Sales of Property/Assets." Then enter it as "Other assets" rather than as a vehicle sale. Make sure you have a detailed spreadsheet of all your capital improvements with receipts backing everything up. TurboTax won't automatically know which improvements qualify, so you need to do that calculation separately and just enter the final adjusted basis.
Great thread! I'm going through a similar situation with my converted van. One thing I wanted to add that might help others - make sure to keep photos of your conversion process, not just receipts. When I sold mine last year, having before/during/after photos really helped demonstrate to my tax preparer (and potentially the IRS) that these weren't just repairs but actual improvements that transformed the vehicle's use. Also, consider getting a professional appraisal if your gain is substantial. For my van, I had it appraised both before major improvements and after completion. This created a clear paper trail showing how the improvements added value, which made filing much more straightforward. The distinction between repairs and improvements can be tricky, but generally if you're adapting the vehicle for a completely different purpose (school bus to RV), most of your conversion work should qualify as capital improvements. Just document everything well!
Wait I'm confused about something. If I sell a jacket I bought for $50 five years ago and sell it for $40 this year, isn't that technically a capital loss? Can I deduct that loss somewhere on my taxes?
Unfortunately, losses on personal items aren't deductible on your taxes. The IRS specifically prohibits claiming losses from selling personal property (like clothing, furniture, etc.). The good news is that you don't have to pay taxes on that $40 since it wasn't a gain. But you can't claim the $10 loss either. It's basically a tax-neutral event. The only personal property losses you can deduct are from casualties or thefts, but not from normal sales of used personal items.
I went through this exact situation last year and wanted to share what I learned! You're absolutely right that this is essentially an online garage sale situation, not a business. The $600 threshold is correct - that's why they asked for your SSN verification. You'll likely receive a 1099-K, but don't panic! The key thing to remember is that you're only taxed on actual profit, not the gross sales amount. Since you're selling personal clothing items for less than you originally paid (which is almost always the case with used clothes), you won't owe taxes on this income. When you get the 1099-K, you'll report it in TurboTax, but then you'll also enter your cost basis (what you originally paid for the items) to show there was no taxable gain. Don't include the shipping fees in your taxable calculation - those are just pass-through costs. Focus on the actual item sale prices versus what you originally paid. Even without receipts, you can make reasonable estimates of your original purchase prices. A vintage band t-shirt you sold for $25 probably cost you $15-30 originally, a jacket you sold for $40 might have cost $60-80 new, etc. The IRS accepts reasonable estimates for personal items. The most important thing is NOT to just report the full $815 and pay taxes on it - that would mean paying taxes on money that isn't actually taxable income!
This is such a helpful breakdown! I'm in a similar situation and was getting overwhelmed by all the conflicting information online. Quick question - when you say "reasonable estimates" for original purchase prices, do you have any tips for how to approach that? Like, should I err on the conservative side or try to be as accurate as possible to my actual memory of what I paid? I sold mostly thrift store finds that I then resold, so some items I only paid $5-10 for originally but sold for $20-30.
For thrift store finds, you should definitely be honest about what you actually paid! If you bought something at a thrift store for $5 and sold it for $25, that $20 difference would actually be taxable income since you made a real profit. The "personal items sold at a loss" rule applies when you're selling things you bought for personal use at retail prices. Thrift flipping is different - that's more like a side business activity where you're buying items specifically to resell them for profit. You might need to handle those sales differently in TurboTax, possibly as casual business income rather than personal item sales. The good news is that with thrift items, you do have a clear cost basis (what you paid), so the profit calculation is straightforward. Just be accurate about your actual purchase prices - don't inflate them to avoid taxes, as that could cause problems if you're ever audited.
One thing to consider that nobody's mentioned - the bank account situation. When I formed my S Corp, I was surprised at how much documentation banks wanted to open a business account. You'll need: - Articles of incorporation - EIN confirmation letter from IRS - Corporate bylaws (or operating agreement if LLC→S Corp) - Sometimes board meeting minutes showing authority to open accounts Also, some banks are MUCH easier to work with than others for small business S Corps. I tried Chase first and the process was a nightmare. Switched to a local credit union and had everything set up in 45 minutes.
Great question about S Corp conversion! I made this transition two years ago when my consulting income hit $450k and it was absolutely worth it. Here are some practical insights from my experience: **State Choice**: Between Colorado and Minnesota, Colorado generally has more favorable business tax rates. But since you're spending significant time in both states, you'll likely need to file returns in both regardless of where you incorporate. Consider consulting with a tax professional who understands multi-state tax issues. **Professional Team**: You'll definitely want to upgrade from just a tax preparer. I'd recommend: - A CPA experienced with S Corps (not just general tax prep) - Payroll service like Gusto or ADP (makes quarterly payroll much easier) - QuickBooks or similar for clean bookkeeping - Consider an attorney for initial setup if your situation is complex **Reasonable Salary**: For $520k revenue in tech consulting, depending on your profit margins, a salary in the $180-220k range would likely be defensible. The IRS looks at what someone with your skills and responsibilities would earn as an employee. Your CPA can help determine the sweet spot. **Additional Benefits**: Beyond SE tax savings, you'll get better retirement plan options (Solo 401k with higher contribution limits), potential health insurance deductions, and cleaner business/personal separation. One tip: Start the process now if you want S Corp treatment for 2024. The paperwork and IRS processing can take time, and you don't want to miss the election deadline. The administrative overhead is real but manageable with the right systems. At your income level, the tax savings should easily justify the additional costs and complexity.
This is incredibly helpful, thank you! I'm curious about the timeline - if I start the process now in late 2023, what's the earliest I could realistically have everything set up and running? I want to make sure I don't miss any deadlines but also want to be realistic about how long each step takes. Also, you mentioned Solo 401k with higher contribution limits - how much higher are we talking? I'm currently maxing out a SEP-IRA but if there are better retirement savings options available, that could be another significant benefit I hadn't considered.
Great question about timeline! If you start now, here's what you're looking at: **Timeline breakdown:** - Entity formation: 1-2 weeks (faster if you pay expedite fees) - EIN from IRS: Same day if you apply online, or 2-4 weeks by mail - S Corp election (Form 2553): File immediately after formation, but specify Jan 1, 2024 effective date - Bank account setup: 1-2 weeks after you have all docs - Payroll system setup: Few days once bank account is ready So realistically, you could have everything operational by early January 2024 if you start the process in the next few weeks. **Solo 401k vs SEP-IRA:** This is where S Corps really shine! For 2024: - SEP-IRA: Limited to 25% of compensation, max $69k - Solo 401k: $23k employee contribution + up to 25% employer contribution = potentially $92k total With your income level, you could easily hit that $92k max with a Solo 401k through your S Corp, versus being capped much lower with the SEP-IRA. That's potentially $20k+ more in tax-deferred retirement savings annually. The Solo 401k also allows loans and Roth conversions that SEP-IRAs don't offer. Definitely factor this into your ROI calculations - it could add another $5-7k in annual tax savings on top of the SE tax benefits.
This is exactly the kind of situation where maximizing your pre-tax retirement contributions can really pay off! As a fellow educator (I teach high school biology), I've been through this same calculation. One thing to consider is the timing of your contributions. If you're paid over 10 months like many teachers, you might want to front-load your 403b contributions earlier in the year to get a better sense of where your MAGI will land. This gives you more flexibility to adjust if needed. Also, don't forget about HSA contributions if either of your school districts offers high-deductible health plans with HSAs. Those contributions also reduce MAGI and you can use HSA funds for qualified medical expenses tax-free forever. With two college students, you might have some medical expenses that could benefit from this strategy. The key is running the numbers to see exactly how much you need to contribute to stay under that $160k threshold. Every dollar of education credits you preserve is worth way more than the tax deferral benefit of the retirement contribution alone!
This is really helpful advice about timing contributions! I hadn't thought about front-loading our 403b contributions earlier in the school year. We do get paid over 10 months, so that strategy makes a lot of sense. Quick question about HSAs - do you know if California teachers typically have access to high-deductible health plans through their districts? I know our benefits are pretty standardized across the state, but I haven't looked into whether HSA-eligible plans are even an option for us in the CalSTRS/CalPERS system. Also, when you mention running the numbers, do you use any specific tools or calculators to figure out exactly how much to contribute? I want to make sure I'm not over-contributing to retirement accounts if I don't need to for the education credits.
Great question about HSAs in California! Unfortunately, most California school districts don't offer HSA-eligible high-deductible health plans. The CalSTRS and CalPERS health benefits are typically more comprehensive traditional plans that don't qualify for HSA contributions. You'd need to check with your specific district's benefits office, but it's pretty rare in the California public education system. For running the numbers, I actually use a combination of approaches. I start with the IRS worksheets in Publication 970 to get a rough estimate, but honestly those can be confusing. For more precise calculations, especially when you have multiple income sources and deductions to consider, I've found that tax software or professional tools give much better results. The key is to model different contribution scenarios - like what happens if you contribute $15K vs $20K to your 403b - and see how that affects your final MAGI and education credit eligibility. You definitely don't want to over-contribute if you don't need to, since you could potentially use that money for other financial goals.
As a California educator myself (elementary school principal), I can confirm that 403b contributions absolutely reduce your MAGI for education credit purposes. This saved my family thousands when my daughter was in college. One strategy that worked well for us was to calculate our projected MAGI early in the tax year, then adjust our 403b contributions accordingly. Since we're paid over 10 months, I increased my contribution percentage mid-year when I realized we were close to the phase-out threshold. Also worth noting - if you're over 50, don't forget about catch-up contributions! The additional $7,500 you can contribute to your 403b in 2025 can make a real difference in staying under that $160k MAGI limit for married filing jointly. With $24,000 in qualified expenses for two students, you're potentially looking at $5,000 in American Opportunity Credits if you can keep your MAGI in the right range. That's definitely worth optimizing your retirement contributions for!
This is such valuable advice! As a newer educator (just started my third year teaching high school English), I'm still learning about all these financial strategies. I had no idea about catch-up contributions for those over 50 - that's something I'll definitely keep in mind for the future. Your point about calculating projected MAGI early in the year is really smart. Do you have any tips for estimating what our MAGI will be when we're still early in the tax year? I feel like there are so many variables with potential raises, different deduction amounts, etc. Is there a simple way to project this, or do you recommend working with a tax professional? Also, thank you for confirming the numbers - $5,000 in potential credits for two students really puts this in perspective. That's a significant amount that's worth planning for!
Ezra Bates
Just wanna add that you should be careful about "reimbursing" yourself too much at once if you do it in 2025. I made this mistake - had a ton of 2023 miles I didn't reimburse until January 2024, then tried to take it all at once along with my regular 2024 mileage. My accountant warned me that large, unusual reimbursements can trigger extra scrutiny. Might be worth spreading it out over a few months if the amount is significant.
0 coins
Sophie Footman
Just to add another perspective - I've been dealing with similar timing issues in my consulting business. One thing that helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet that clearly separates "when the expense occurred" vs "when I paid/reimbursed myself." This makes it crystal clear for both my records and any potential IRS questions. For your December 2024 miles, I'd recommend documenting it something like: "Business mileage incurred: December 2024 | Reimbursement date: February 2025 | Tax year for deduction: 2025." This way there's no confusion about the timeline. Also, since you mentioned money was tight in December, you might want to consider what others have suggested about claiming the mileage directly on your 2024 Schedule C instead of doing a formal reimbursement. That way you could still get the deduction for 2024 without having to actually move cash around. Just make sure your mileage logs are detailed enough to support the deduction!
0 coins