IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Great question! I went through this exact same situation two years ago when I was a junior in college. Being claimed as a dependent has absolutely no impact on your ability to get a PTIN - they're completely separate issues. The PTIN application process is straightforward: go to the IRS PTIN website, create an account, fill out the application with your personal info (SSN, address, etc.), answer some ethics questions, and pay the fee (I think it was around $50 when I applied). You don't need to have filed your own taxes independently first. One thing to keep in mind though - once you start earning income from tax prep work, you'll need to report that income on your own tax return (Schedule C for self-employment income) even though you're still claimed as a dependent. Your parents claiming you doesn't change your obligation to report your own earnings. Also, don't forget about self-employment taxes! Even if your regular income is below the filing threshold, if you make more than $400 from self-employment (like tax prep), you'll need to pay SE taxes on that income. Good luck with your tax prep career! It's great experience for an accounting student.

0 coins

This is really helpful! I'm in a similar boat as the OP - college student, dependent, wanting to get into tax prep. Quick question about the self-employment tax thing you mentioned - do you know if there's a minimum amount you need to make before it kicks in? Like if I only do a few returns and make like $200, do I still need to worry about Schedule C and SE taxes? Also, did you find it hard to get clients when you were just starting out as a student? I'm worried people won't trust someone who's still in school to do their taxes.

0 coins

Kaiya Rivera

•

@Carmella Fromis Yes, you need to file Schedule C and pay self-employment taxes if you make $400 or more from tax prep work, regardless of how few returns you do. So if you only make $200, you wouldn t'need to worry about SE taxes, but you d'still need to report that income on your regular tax return. For getting clients as a student, I started by doing returns for family friends and classmates at a discounted rate to build experience and references. I was upfront about being a student but emphasized my PTIN certification and that I was studying accounting. Many people actually liked supporting a student, and offering lower rates than established preparers helped offset their concerns. Once I had a few satisfied clients and some good reviews, it became much easier to attract new business. The key is being honest about your experience level while demonstrating your knowledge and professionalism.

0 coins

Just want to echo what others have said - being claimed as a dependent definitely won't prevent you from getting your PTIN! I got mine while I was still a dependent and it was no problem at all. One thing I'd add is to make sure you have all your documents ready before starting the application. You'll need your SSN, current address (use your school address if that's where you spend most of your time), and a way to pay the fee. The application itself only takes about 15-20 minutes if you have everything ready. Also, since you're studying accounting, this is perfect timing to get real-world experience! I found that working with actual tax returns helped me understand concepts from my tax classes so much better. Just make sure to start with simpler returns (like 1040EZ situations) while you're building confidence, then work your way up to more complex situations. Good luck with your tax prep venture - it's a great way to earn money during tax season and build your resume at the same time!

0 coins

This is such great advice! I'm actually in the exact same situation as Lauren - 20, dependent, accounting major wanting to get into tax prep. It's really reassuring to hear from so many people who've successfully done this while being dependents. @Michael Green - when you mention starting with simpler returns, do you have any recommendations for how to find those types of clients? I m'thinking college students would be perfect since most of them probably just have W-2s and maybe some student loan interest, but I m'not sure how to market to that demographic without seeming unprofessional. Also, did anyone else feel nervous about the liability aspect when they first started? Like what happens if you make a mistake on someone s'return?

0 coins

Just to add some clarification on the approved delivery services - the IRS updates this list periodically. Currently for FedEx they accept: FedEx First Overnight, FedEx Priority Overnight, FedEx Standard Overnight, FedEx 2 Day, FedEx International Next Flight Out, FedEx International Priority, FedEx International First, and FedEx International Economy. For UPS: UPS Next Day Air Early, UPS Next Day Air, UPS Next Day Air Saver, UPS 2nd Day Air, UPS 2nd Day Air A.M., UPS Worldwide Express Plus, and UPS Worldwide Express.

0 coins

Jason Brewer

•

Does anyone know if DHL is on the approved list? Can't seem to find a straight answer on this.

0 coins

DHL Express 9:00, DHL Express 10:30, DHL Express 12:00, DHL Express Worldwide, DHL Express Envelope, DHL Import Express 10:30, DHL Import Express 12:00, and DHL Import Express Worldwide are all on the approved list. Here's an important note though - if you use any of these services, you must address your tax return to the street address on the IRS instructions, not a PO Box address. The private carriers can't deliver to PO Boxes.

0 coins

PSA: Make sure to check the actual timelines for these services right now. UPS and FedEx have been having delays in some regions. My friend used FedEx 2Day last year thinking it would be fine for the deadline, but with current shipping delays it took 4 days! The IRS still counted it as on time because of the drop-off date, but it caused him weeks of stress thinking he'd be hit with penalties.

0 coins

Liam Cortez

•

Isn't there an "actual receipt rule" too? Like if the IRS physically receives your return before the deadline, it doesn't matter how you sent it? Or am I confusing this with something else?

0 coins

Lauren Zeb

•

One additional consideration that might help with your budgeting - if you're expecting more commissions throughout the year, you might want to set aside a portion of this $6,700 commission specifically for taxes on future commission payments. What I mean is this: let's say your employer withholds that 22% federal rate on your upcoming commission, but your actual marginal tax rate ends up being 24% or higher when you file. That means you'll owe additional taxes on this commission AND any future ones you receive. I started doing this after getting surprised by a tax bill one year - now whenever I get a commission check, I immediately transfer about 30-35% of the net amount (what I actually receive after withholding) into a separate savings account earmarked for taxes. This way, if I end up owing more when I file, I have the money set aside. If I don't need it all for taxes, it becomes a nice bonus savings cushion. It's especially important if your commission income varies significantly year to year, because it can make it harder to predict your tax liability. The IRS doesn't care that you had a good commission year - they still expect you to pay the right amount of tax on it! Also, since you mentioned budgeting for upcoming expenses, make sure you're planning around the net amount after all withholdings, not the gross $6,700. That way you won't be disappointed when the actual deposit hits your account.

0 coins

This is such smart advice about setting aside extra money from commission checks! I never thought about the fact that if your actual tax rate is higher than the withholding rate, you're essentially building up a tax debt with each commission you receive throughout the year. The separate savings account strategy makes a lot of sense - it's like paying yourself first for taxes rather than scrambling to find the money at filing time. Do you use a specific percentage rule for how much extra to set aside beyond the withholding, or do you adjust it based on your estimated tax bracket? I'm definitely going to implement this approach with my upcoming commission. Better to have too much saved for taxes and be pleasantly surprised than to get hit with a big bill next April. Thanks for sharing this practical tip - it's exactly the kind of real-world advice that helps turn tax planning from stressful to manageable!

0 coins

Diego Vargas

•

This has been such a helpful thread! As someone who's been stressing about my first big commission check, reading everyone's experiences has really put things in perspective. I think the key takeaway for me is that the 22% withholding is just the beginning, not the end of the tax story. Between federal taxes, state taxes, FICA, and potential impacts on credits and deductions, planning for keeping around 65-70% of the gross amount seems like the prudent approach. The advice about setting aside extra money for taxes beyond what's withheld is brilliant - I'm definitely going to open a separate savings account for this. And I had no idea about the quarterly estimated payment implications if you're self-employed or have side income. For anyone else in a similar situation, it sounds like the most important steps are: 1) Calculate your likely tax bracket with the commission included, 2) Check if you'll hit any phase-out thresholds for credits/deductions, 3) Consider the timing for tax planning purposes, and 4) Be conservative with your net amount estimates for budgeting. Thanks everyone for sharing your real-world experiences - this is exactly the kind of practical advice you can't get from generic tax websites!

0 coins

Dmitry Popov

•

You've really captured the essential points perfectly! As someone who's just learning about all this, I appreciate how this thread has broken down what initially seemed like an impossible tax calculation into manageable steps. One thing that's been eye-opening is realizing how many different factors can affect the final tax impact beyond just the basic withholding rate. The phase-out thresholds for credits and deductions seem particularly tricky to navigate without doing the full calculations. I'm curious - for those of you who've been through this multiple times, do you find it's worth consulting with a tax professional when you're expecting a large commission, or are the online calculators and tools mentioned here sufficient for most situations? I'm trying to decide if the peace of mind of professional advice is worth the cost for a one-time $6,700 commission. Either way, I'm definitely implementing the separate tax savings account strategy and being conservative with my budgeting assumptions. Better to be prepared than caught off guard come tax season!

0 coins

Just chiming in to add my experience as someone who didn't file for 5 years (2016-2020) and finally caught up last year. The biggest surprise was that I was actually OWED money for 3 of those 5 years because I had too much withheld from my paychecks! Unfortunately I could only get refunds for 2020 since the others were outside the 3-year window, but I was relieved there were no penalties since I was due refunds. The peace of mind from being caught up is worth it even though I lost out on some refund money. Whether you should file really depends on if you had taxes withheld that were more than what you would have owed. If you were a W-2 employee with normal withholding, there's a decent chance you're owed money rather than owing the IRS.

0 coins

Sunny Wang

•

This is so important! Most people assume they'll owe if they didn't file, but often W-2 employees have too much withheld and are actually due refunds. The IRS doesn't penalize you if they owe YOU money!

0 coins

Gabriel, I can definitely understand your stress about this! From what you've shared, you're actually in a pretty good position since you've gotten current with 2021-2023. Here's my take on your specific situation: Since you're primarily concerned about FAFSA eligibility for January, you should be fine. FAFSA typically uses the "prior-prior year" tax information, so for starting school in January 2025, they'll likely want your 2023 return (which you have filed). However, I'd still lean toward filing those back years (2017-2020) for a few reasons: 1. You mentioned wanting peace of mind - unfiled returns can create anxiety that lingers 2. If you were a W-2 employee during those years, there's a decent chance you're owed refunds (especially for 2020, which you might still be able to claim) 3. It eliminates any future complications if you need tax transcripts for loans, employment background checks, or other purposes Before spending money on a tax preparer though, I'd suggest trying to figure out if you were even required to file for those years. If your income was below the filing threshold for any of those years, you wouldn't need to file at all. You can check the IRS website for historical filing thresholds by year. The fact that your current tax preparer seemed confused suggests he might not specialize in back tax situations - you might want to consult with someone who has more experience with unfiled returns to get a clearer picture of your obligations and potential refunds.

0 coins

Sophia Russo

•

This is really solid advice! I'm in a similar boat and was wondering - do you know roughly what those historical filing thresholds were for single filers? I'm trying to figure out if I even needed to file for 2018 when I was working part-time and only made around $9,000. It seems like there might be a threshold below which you don't have to file at all, but I can't find the specific numbers for those older years.

0 coins

Omar Zaki

•

Anyone here use TurboTax for reporting these backdoor Roth conversions? I'm doing exactly what the original poster described but TurboTax seems confused about how to handle the form 8606 when I have both 2023 and 2024 contributions converted in the same year.

0 coins

I use FreeTaxUSA and it handles backdoor Roth conversions much better than TurboTax in my experience. The interview questions specifically address non-deductible contributions and conversions, and it fills out Form 8606 correctly. Their support was also helpful when I had questions.

0 coins

Omar Zaki

•

Thanks for the recommendation! I'll check out FreeTaxUSA. I'm getting frustrated with TurboTax anyway since they keep raising their prices every year. Did you find it easy to import previous years' returns when you switched?

0 coins

Great question! You're absolutely right that there are no dollar limits on Roth IRA conversions. Since your traditional IRA contributions weren't deductible (due to your employer plan), converting that entire $13,500 in 2024 should be essentially tax-free. One small clarification - when you convert in 2024, you'll report both the 2023 contribution (made in January 2024) and the 2024 contribution on your 2024 tax return using Form 8606. The IRS doesn't care that one contribution was "for" 2023 - what matters is when the conversion actually happened. Since you mentioned there are no gains in the account, you should owe zero taxes on the conversion. Just make sure to keep good records of your non-deductible contributions for Form 8606 reporting. The backdoor Roth strategy you're using is perfectly legitimate and very common for people in your situation who exceed the income limits for direct Roth contributions. One tip: consider doing the conversion soon after making contributions in the future to minimize any potential gains that would be taxable. You're doing everything correctly!

0 coins

This is really helpful! I'm new to the backdoor Roth strategy and was worried I might be doing something wrong. Just to make sure I understand - when you say "consider doing the conversion soon after making contributions," do you mean I should convert immediately after each contribution, or is it okay to wait and do one big conversion at the end of the year? I'm trying to figure out the best timing to minimize any paperwork complications.

0 coins

Prev1...19451946194719481949...5643Next