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Make sure you take pictures of your physical inventory at year-end! I learned this the hard way when I got audited for my eCommerce business. Having dated photos of your inventory count really helps if the IRS ever questions your COGS calculations. I now do inventory counts twice a year with photos, detailed spreadsheets, and even a short video walkthrough of my storage area.
Great advice in this thread! As someone who just went through my first year of proper COGS reporting for my online candle business, I want to add that you should also consider how you handle partially finished products. If you have jewelry pieces that are started but not completed at year-end, you need to decide whether to include the materials cost in your ending inventory or treat them as work-in-progress. For my candles, I had about $400 worth of wax that was melted and scented but not yet poured into containers. I included this in my ending inventory at the cost of materials used so far. Just something to think about since handmade businesses often have items in various stages of completion at year-end. Also seconding the advice about keeping detailed records - my spreadsheet tracks not just dollar amounts but quantities of each type of bead, finding, etc. It's more work upfront but makes the year-end count so much easier and more accurate.
That's such a helpful point about work-in-progress inventory! I never thought about how to handle pieces that are partially completed. For my jewelry business, I often have settings that are prepared but waiting for stones, or pieces that are assembled but not polished yet. Do you track the labor costs you've put into those partial pieces, or just the raw materials? I'm wondering if I should be accounting for my time spent on unfinished work at year-end, or if that's getting too complicated for a small business like mine.
Has anyone actually looked at OP's investment options with Paylocity? Are they mainly target date funds or do they have some decent index fund options? The fees make a huge difference over time.
I had Paylocity HSA at my last job. Their investment options were pretty limited - mostly target date funds with expense ratios around 0.6-0.8% and a few index funds that were still more expensive than Fidelity's offerings. They also had a $1,000 minimum cash balance before investing and charged $2.95/month as an admin fee.
The investment options with Paylocity are mostly target date funds with fees around 0.7%, plus some actively managed funds with even higher expense ratios. There are only two index fund options, both with fees of about 0.35% which seems high compared to what folks are saying about Fidelity. There's also a $1,000 minimum before I can invest anything, which is pretty annoying since I'm just starting to fund this HSA. Based on all the feedback here, I think I'm gonna go with contributing through work for the FICA savings but then periodically transferring to Fidelity. Seems like the best of both worlds!
Great decision Tyler! You've got a solid plan there. Just wanted to add a few practical tips for when you start doing those transfers: 1. Keep track of your transfer dates - most HSA providers limit you to 1-2 free transfers per year, so you'll want to batch them up rather than doing frequent small transfers. 2. Consider doing your first transfer once you hit around $2,000-3,000 in your Paylocity account. This way you're past their minimum balance requirement and have a decent amount to make the transfer worthwhile. 3. When you do transfer, leave a small buffer in your Paylocity account (maybe $100-200) to cover any potential fees or timing issues with future payroll contributions. 4. Make sure to update your investment allocations in both accounts so new money gets invested automatically rather than sitting in cash. The fee difference you mentioned (0.35% vs Fidelity's zero-fee funds) will really add up over time. On a $10,000 balance, that's $35/year you're saving, and as your HSA grows to $50,000+ over the years, you'll be saving hundreds annually. Smart move!
This is really helpful advice! I'm new to HSAs and didn't even know about the transfer limits. Quick question - when you mention keeping a buffer in the Paylocity account, is that just to avoid any potential overdraft issues if there's a timing mismatch between when payroll contributions hit vs when transfers occur? Also, do you know if there are tax implications I need to worry about when doing these transfers between HSA providers?
This is such a common issue! I went through the exact same thing my first year freelancing. Your CPA's advice is spot on - you only need to report actual business income, not personal transfers from family and friends. Here's what helped me get organized: I exported all my Cash App transactions to a spreadsheet and created columns for "Business Income," "Business Expense," and "Personal." Then I went through line by line and categorized everything. It was tedious but gave me peace of mind. The key things to remember: - Gifts from family/friends are NOT taxable income to you - Money for splitting bills, rent help, etc. are personal transfers, not income - Only payments for goods/services you provided count as business income - Keep notes explaining each transaction in case of questions later You're already doing the right thing by separating accounts going forward. For this year's filing, just be thorough with your categorization and keep good records. The IRS understands that people use these apps for both personal and business - they just want to see that you're reporting your actual business income correctly.
I went through this exact same situation last year and wanted to share what worked for me. The mixed personal/business transactions in Cash App were giving me major anxiety, but it turned out to be much more manageable than I thought. Here's my step-by-step approach that might help: 1. Export your entire Cash App transaction history to CSV 2. Create a simple spreadsheet with columns for Date, Amount, Description, and Category 3. Go through each transaction and mark it as either "Business Income," "Business Expense," or "Personal" 4. For business transactions, add a note about what service/product was provided 5. Calculate your total business income and expenses separately The personal stuff (family gifts, splitting dinner bills, rent help) doesn't affect your taxes at all - the IRS only cares about money you earned through business activities. Your CPA was right that it's straightforward, but I totally understand the stress of making sure you get it right. One thing that helped me was printing out the final categorized list and highlighting all the business income entries. Having it on paper made it feel more official when I handed it to my accountant. Also, keep all those records! I put everything in a folder labeled "2023 Tax Backup" just in case. The peace of mind is worth it. You've got this - the hardest part is just sitting down and going through everything methodically.
This is exactly the kind of detailed breakdown I needed to see! I've been putting off dealing with my Cash App mess because it felt so overwhelming, but your step-by-step approach makes it seem actually doable. The idea of printing out the final list and highlighting business entries is brilliant - I'm definitely going to do that. There's something about having physical documentation that makes me feel more confident about my record-keeping. Quick question though - when you exported to CSV, did you have any issues with Cash App's export format? I tried once and some of the transaction descriptions got cut off, which made it harder to remember what each payment was for.
idk why but this whole thing of kids getting 1099s is wild to me. back in my day we just had lemonade stands š“
get off my lawn! šØāš¦³
Just to add some clarity here - yes your child can absolutely receive a 1099 at any age! Since they made $600 from content creation, whoever paid them should issue a 1099-NEC if it was from a single source. The key things to remember: 1) They'll need to file their own return since it's self-employment income over $400, 2) You can still claim them as your dependent, and 3) Definitely set aside money for taxes (self-employment tax is 15.3% plus regular income tax). Also make sure to track all business expenses - equipment, internet costs, etc. can be deducted!
This is super helpful! Quick question - when you mention tracking business expenses, would things like a ring light or microphone for content creation count? My kid's been asking for better equipment and I'm wondering if we can write that off
Natalia Stone
Brianna, I feel your pain! Code J distributions can be stressful to deal with. Just to add to what others have said - make sure you keep good records of why you took the distribution and when. Even though moving expenses don't qualify for the penalty exception, having documentation helps if the IRS ever asks questions. One thing that might help for future reference - if you change jobs again and need cash, consider taking a loan from your 401k instead of a distribution. Loans don't trigger taxes or penalties as long as you pay them back on schedule. Obviously too late for this situation, but worth knowing for the future! Also, when you're calculating your taxes, don't forget that the $8,500 gets added to your regular income, so it might bump you into a higher tax bracket for the year. The penalty is definitely painful, but at least now you know what to expect when filing.
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Dylan Cooper
ā¢Great advice about the 401k loans! I wish I had known about that option when I was in a similar situation. Just want to add that if you do go the loan route in the future, make sure you understand the repayment terms - if you leave your job before paying it back, the remaining balance usually becomes a taxable distribution just like what happened to you. But definitely a better option if you're planning to stay with an employer for a while and can make the payments.
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Dylan Campbell
Hey Brianna! I went through almost the exact same thing last year when I switched jobs and had to take an early distribution. That sinking feeling when you see Code J is real! One thing that helped me was using tax software that specifically handles retirement distributions - it walks you through all the forms step by step. You'll definitely need to report the $8,500 as income and file Form 5329 for the 10% penalty like others mentioned. Just want to add - when you're doing your taxes, double-check if you had any federal or state taxes withheld from the distribution (it should show on your 1099-R). Sometimes employers withhold 20% automatically, which can help reduce what you owe when filing. Also, if your income is lower this year than usual, the additional $8,500 might not bump you up a full tax bracket. The penalty stings, but at least it's a one-time thing and now you know for future reference. Hang in there - you've got this!
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