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This is a complex situation that involves multiple reporting requirements beyond just the basic tax return. Based on what you've described, your father will need to: 1. Report the capital gain on Schedule D of his US tax return 2. File Form 1116 to claim the foreign tax credit for Philippine capital gains tax paid 3. File FBAR (Form 114) with FinCEN if the Philippine account balance exceeds $10,000 4. Potentially file Form 8938 (FATCA) with his tax return if foreign assets exceed the threshold The good news is that the US-Philippines tax treaty should prevent double taxation through the foreign tax credit. However, only income taxes (like the Philippine capital gains tax) qualify for the credit - fees and documentary stamps generally don't. One thing to consider is the timing of when to transfer the money. If you can structure the transfer to occur early in the tax year, it might help with some of the reporting thresholds for the following year. Also, keep detailed records of all exchange rates used, as the IRS requires consistent methodology for currency conversions. Given the amount involved and the complexity of dual citizenship tax issues, I'd recommend consulting with an Enrolled Agent or CPA who specializes in international tax matters. The cost of professional help is usually worth it to avoid costly mistakes with these reporting requirements.

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Andre Dubois

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This is really helpful - thank you for breaking down all the different forms and requirements! I had no idea there were so many separate reporting obligations beyond just the basic tax return. One quick question: you mentioned timing the transfer to help with reporting thresholds. Are you suggesting we should move the money early in 2025 to avoid having to report it again for the 2025 tax year? Or is there some other timing consideration I should be aware of?

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Luca Ferrari

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Yes, exactly! The FBAR and Form 8938 reporting thresholds are based on account balances during the tax year. If you transfer the money early in 2025 (say January or February), then for the 2025 tax year, you'd only need to report the Philippine account balance for those few months rather than having a large balance sitting there for the entire year. However, there's a trade-off to consider. Moving the money quickly means you'll need to have all your tax documentation ready sooner, since you'll want to complete the foreign tax credit calculations before transferring. Also, some banks have better exchange rates at certain times, so you don't want to rush the transfer and lose money on conversion rates just to avoid reporting requirements. Another timing consideration is the FBAR filing deadline. Even though there's an automatic extension to October 15th, it's easier to file everything together when you do your regular tax return in the spring. If you transfer early in 2025, you can include that final account activity in your 2024 filings and start fresh for 2025. The key is just being strategic about it rather than letting a large amount sit in foreign accounts indefinitely, which creates ongoing reporting obligations year after year.

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation with my mother who sold ancestral land in Batangas last year. One thing I learned the hard way is to keep extremely detailed records of the property's cost basis adjustments over the years. The IRS allows you to add certain improvements and expenses to your original basis, which can significantly reduce your taxable gain. For example, if your father made any improvements to the land over the decades - like building structures, adding utilities, or even major landscaping - those costs can be added to the original purchase price when calculating the gain. Also, any property taxes paid over the years in the Philippines can potentially be factored in depending on the specific circumstances. The documentation requirements are intense, but it's worth it. My mother's gain was reduced by almost $30,000 just by properly accounting for improvements she had made in the 1990s. We had to dig through old receipts and even got sworn statements from neighbors who remembered the construction work. Also, don't forget that if your father has been filing US tax returns all these years as required, he should have been reporting any rental income from the property if it was generating income. That rental income reporting can actually help establish the property's basis and fair market value over time for the IRS.

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Ellie Simpson

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This is excellent advice about basis adjustments! I'm curious - when you mention sworn statements from neighbors about construction work, did the IRS actually accept that as valid documentation? We're in a similar situation where my dad made improvements in the 1980s and 1990s, but finding official receipts from that long ago seems nearly impossible. Did you have to get the statements notarized or was there a specific format the IRS required? Also, regarding the rental income reporting - what if the property wasn't formally rented but family members lived there occasionally over the years? Would that affect the basis calculation at all, or is it only relevant if there was actual documented rental income being reported on previous tax returns?

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IRS denied large refund despite mailing by 3-year deadline - options to contest?

I sent both my federal and state tax returns via certified mail on the absolute final day of the 3-year deadline (plus extension) to claim my refunds. My state refund came through no problem, but the IRS sent me a denial letter saying they couldn't pay my refund because my return was filed after the deadline. The crazy thing is, they specifically mentioned that the last day to file was the EXACT SAME DAY I mailed it (which I can prove with my certified mail receipt). The letter gave me a window to appeal their decision, but I completely missed that timeframe. It also mentioned I have up to 2 years from the date of their letter to claim the refund, suggesting I'd need to file a lawsuit by then to preserve my claim. I have the receipt showing I mailed it on time - literally on the exact day they say was the deadline. It seems like a clear-cut case where I'd win in court. I think I could even request summary judgment, but I'm not a lawyer and can't afford to hire one out of pocket. Here's what I'm wondering: If I hire a tax attorney to take this to tax court and win, would I be entitled to recover attorney fees and interest? Do tax attorneys typically take on cases like this on contingency when victory seems almost guaranteed? The refund is over $12,000, so I'm definitely not willing to just give up. I was also thinking about sending a letter directly to the appeals department with a copy of my receipt showing timely mailing, and citing the relevant case law about mailbox rule (that the date mailed is considered the filing date). I'd point out that going to court would waste everyone's time and resources. If I go this route, should I also explicitly request interest?

Kaitlyn Otto

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A little shocked nobody mentioned Publication 5, "Your Appeal Rights and How to Prepare a Protest If You Don't Agree." Even though you missed the initial appeal window, you can still file what's called an "audit reconsideration" request. https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p5.pdf This is basically asking the IRS to take another look at your case based on new information (or in your case, information they may have overlooked - your certified mail receipt). Mail this to the EXACT address on your denial letter, not to a general IRS address. Include copies (never originals) of your certified mail receipt and a clear explanation citing IRC Section 7502 about timely mailing being timely filing.

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Axel Far

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Does this actually work though? I feel like the IRS just tosses these requests straight in the trash when you've missed the appeal deadline.

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Actually, audit reconsideration requests do work! I used this exact process last year when the IRS denied my casualty loss deduction. The key is being very specific about what new information you're providing and why their original decision was wrong. In Aaron's case, the "new information" isn't really new - it's that the IRS apparently didn't properly consider his certified mail receipt when making their decision. The audit reconsideration process is designed exactly for situations like this where the taxpayer has clear documentation that contradicts the IRS's position. The success rate is actually pretty good when you have solid evidence like certified mail proof. The IRS knows these cases are losers for them in tax court, so they often just fix the error administratively rather than fight it.

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Jamal Brown

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Just wanted to add that if you do end up going the tax court route, you don't necessarily need to hire an attorney. The U.S. Tax Court has a "small tax case" procedure for disputes under $50,000 that's designed for regular taxpayers to represent themselves. With your certified mail receipt showing timely filing, this would be a relatively straightforward case to present. The filing fee is only $60, and the process is less formal than regular tax court. You'd file Form 2 (Petition) within 90 days of your denial letter date. That said, given the strength of your evidence, I'd definitely exhaust the administrative appeals process first (audit reconsideration as others mentioned). The IRS really doesn't want to waste resources defending cases they know they'll lose, especially when you have black-and-white proof of timely mailing. One more tip: when you write your appeal letter, be very matter-of-fact and cite specific law. Don't get emotional about the situation, just state the facts and reference IRC Section 7502. The cleaner and more professional your documentation, the more likely they are to resolve it quickly in your favor.

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This is really helpful info about the small tax case procedure! Just to clarify - does the 90-day deadline start from the original denial letter date, or does filing an audit reconsideration request extend that deadline? I want to make sure Aaron doesn't accidentally run out of time while trying the administrative route first.

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I've had my LLC for 3 years now and here's something important I learned - track EVERYTHING and be ready to justify the business purpose. The IRS doesn't just look at whether expenses exceed income; they look at whether your expenses are "ordinary and necessary" for your type of business. A $65k vehicle might raise flags depending on your industry. If you're in luxury real estate, probably fine. If you're doing web design, they might question it. I'd recommend talking to an actual CPA before making big purchases like vehicles. The CPA fee is way cheaper than messing this up.

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Sergio Neal

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This is good advice. I got audited last year because my expenses were about 3x my income for two years straight. The IRS agent was especially focused on my home office and vehicle deductions. I had to provide calendars showing business meetings, mileage logs, and photos of my dedicated office space. It was a nightmare but I had good records so it worked out ok.

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Layla Mendes

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Great question! Yes, you can absolutely deduct business expenses that exceed your LLC's income - this creates what's called a "net operating loss" that can actually benefit you tax-wise. Since you mentioned this is a side business alongside your day job, those business losses will typically flow through to your personal tax return (assuming your LLC is taxed as a sole proprietorship, which is the default for single-member LLCs). This means your business losses can potentially offset your W-2 income, reducing your overall tax liability. However, regarding that $65k vehicle - you generally can't deduct the full amount in year one. Vehicles are considered capital assets that must be depreciated over several years. That said, there are accelerated depreciation options like Section 179 deduction or bonus depreciation that might allow you to deduct a larger portion upfront, depending on the vehicle's weight and your business use percentage. A few important things to keep in mind: - Document everything meticulously - business purpose, mileage logs, receipts - Make sure expenses are "ordinary and necessary" for your specific type of business - Be prepared to demonstrate legitimate profit motive to avoid hobby loss rule issues - Consider consulting a CPA before making major purchases to ensure you're maximizing benefits while staying compliant The key is maintaining excellent records that clearly show business intent and proper expense documentation.

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Abigail Patel

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This is really helpful, thank you! I'm just getting started with my LLC and the whole depreciation vs. immediate deduction thing is confusing me. You mentioned Section 179 and bonus depreciation - are these things I can elect on my tax return, or do I need to make that decision when I purchase the vehicle? Also, is there a difference in how these work for brand new vs. used vehicles? I want to make sure I don't miss out on any opportunities to maximize my deductions.

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Absolutely do NOT skip filing the 1099! Your friend's advice could get you in serious trouble. The IRS has automated systems that match income reports, so when that brokerage files their tax return showing $72,500 in income from your business, the system will immediately flag that you didn't file the corresponding 1099-NEC. Beyond the penalties (which can be substantial), you're also creating a nightmare for the brokerage. They need that 1099 to properly account for their income, and if they get audited and can't produce the proper documentation showing where that $72,500 came from, it creates problems for them too. The good news is that filing a 1099-NEC is actually pretty straightforward once you know what you're doing. Based on everything discussed here, you need Form 1099-NEC with the $72,500 in Box 1 and Box 2 checked. Use the exact business name and EIN from their W-9, and you'll be all set. It's really not worth the risk to skip it!

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Paolo Conti

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This is exactly right - the automated matching systems are no joke! I learned this the hard way a few years ago when I forgot to file a 1099-MISC for a contractor (before the NEC split). Got a letter from the IRS about 8 months later asking why there was unreported income, and it took weeks to sort out with penalty fees on top. The penalties add up fast too - $280 per form might not sound like much, but when you factor in potential interest and additional scrutiny on your other filings, it's just not worth the headache. Plus like you mentioned, it really does mess things up for the recipient when they're trying to reconcile their books. For @92434574153c - you've got all the right information now. 1099-NEC, Box 1 for the $72,500, Box 2 checked, use the W-9 details exactly as provided. Once you file it correctly, you'll have peace of mind and the brokerage will have what they need for their records.

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Liam Murphy

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Just to add one more important detail that I haven't seen mentioned yet - make sure you file your 1099-NEC by January 31st. Unlike some other tax forms that have different deadlines, 1099s must be filed with the IRS AND provided to the recipient by January 31st. Also, since your commission payment was $72,500 (well over the $600 threshold), you're definitely required to file. The consensus here is spot on - use Form 1099-NEC, put the full amount in Box 1, check Box 2 for the real estate transaction, and use the exact business information from their W-9. One last tip: keep a copy of that W-9 with your records along with documentation of the commission payment. If there are ever any questions from the IRS down the road, having that paper trail makes everything much smoother. You've got this!

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Nia Watson

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This is super helpful - I didn't realize the January 31st deadline applied to both filing with the IRS AND providing to the recipient. I'm new to issuing 1099s and was planning to just get them out by the regular tax deadline in April. Good thing I saw this thread! Quick follow-up question for anyone who knows - if I file electronically through tax software, does that automatically handle both requirements (sending to IRS and recipient), or do I need to separately mail a copy to the brokerage? I want to make sure I don't miss any steps in my first time doing this.

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Just went through this exact process with my consulting LLC that elected S-Corp status. A few key points that might help: 1) You're absolutely right to be frustrated about the $850 fee for zero-activity returns, but unfortunately it's required. However, you can significantly reduce costs by doing some of the prep work yourself. Since you had no business activity, your Form 1120-S will basically be all zeros except for basic entity information. 2) For the EIN notification, I sent a simple letter to the IRS Business & Specialty Tax Line at the Cincinnati processing center. Include your business name, EIN, date of dissolution, and a brief statement that the entity has been dissolved. Keep a copy for your records. 3) Don't forget about your state requirements - many states require a final franchise tax return even with zero activity, and some have specific dissolution tax forms. The penalties for missing these can be worse than just filing them. 4) One money-saving tip: if both LLCs are in the same state and have similar structures, see if your accountant will give you a discount for preparing both final returns together. Mine knocked off about 20% for the second entity since most of the work was duplicated. The whole process is definitely a pain for inactive businesses, but better to close them properly than deal with ongoing compliance issues down the road.

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Mateo Silva

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This is really helpful, especially the tip about getting a discount for multiple entities! I'm definitely going to ask my accountant about that since both LLCs have identical situations. One question about the EIN notification letter - did you send it certified mail or just regular mail? I want to make sure there's some record that the IRS received it, especially since I've heard horror stories about the IRS claiming they never got important documents. Also, do you remember roughly how long it took to get confirmation that they processed your notification, or did you just assume it went through after sending it?

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Carmen Flores

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I sent mine certified mail with return receipt requested - definitely worth the extra few dollars for peace of mind! The IRS doesn't typically send back a confirmation letter, but the certified mail receipt shows they received it. I also kept copies of everything (the letter, certified mail receipt, and my state dissolution documents) in one folder in case I ever need to prove I properly closed the businesses. Never got any follow-up from the IRS, which I took as a good sign. For what it's worth, I also called the IRS business line about 6 months later (using that Claimyr service someone mentioned earlier) just to double-check that my EIN showed as "inactive" in their system. The agent confirmed they had my notification on file and the business was properly closed in their records. Made me feel much better about the whole process.

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I'm going through a similar situation right now with my small consulting LLC that I'm dissolving. Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful - especially learning that you don't actually "cancel" an EIN but just notify the IRS of the dissolution. One thing I wanted to add that might help others: if you're looking to save money on the final tax returns, consider asking your accountant if they offer a flat fee for "zero activity" final returns. I found one who charges $275 for S-Corp final returns when there's literally no business activity to report - just filling in the basic entity info and checking the "final return" box. Also, for anyone else dealing with this, make sure you check if your state has any annual report filings that need to be completed before dissolution. I almost missed my state's final annual report, which would have kept the entity technically "active" even after filing articles of dissolution. The certified mail suggestion for the EIN notification letter is spot on too - that return receipt is your proof that the IRS received your notification. Worth every penny for the peace of mind.

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GalacticGuru

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That's a great point about the annual reports! I completely forgot about those when I was planning my dissolution timeline. Quick question - did you have to file the final annual report before submitting the articles of dissolution, or could you do them simultaneously? I'm worried about timing this wrong and creating unnecessary complications. Also, $275 for a zero-activity final return sounds much more reasonable than the $850 quote the original poster got. Mind sharing what region you found that accountant in, or if they work remotely? I'm in a similar boat and would love to save some money on what should be a pretty straightforward filing.

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