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I almost signed up with Optima last year but decided to check reviews first. Thank god I did! Instead, I went directly to the IRS and set up a payment plan myself. It took one phone call (admittedly after being on hold for 2 hours) and I was approved for a monthly payment I could afford. These companies make it sound like you need some special expertise or insider connections to deal with the IRS, but for most basic tax problems, you absolutely don't. They're just inserting themselves as expensive middlemen.
Did you have to provide all your financial details to get the payment plan? I'm worried about the IRS wanting to see all my bank statements and stuff before they'll approve a payment plan.
This is exactly why I always tell people to be extremely cautious with these tax relief companies. The pattern you described - big promises upfront, poor communication after payment, and then trying to silence customers with NDAs - is unfortunately very common in this industry. The fact that they're demanding you sign an agreement to remove negative reviews in exchange for a partial refund is a huge red flag. Legitimate businesses don't operate this way. They're essentially admitting their service was inadequate while trying to manipulate their online reputation. For anyone reading this who's dealing with tax problems: before paying anyone thousands of dollars, try these free or low-cost options first: 1. Call the IRS directly to discuss payment plan options 2. Use the IRS Online Payment Agreement tool 3. Contact your local Low Income Taxpayer Clinic (LITC) if you qualify 4. Consult with a local CPA or Enrolled Agent for a transparent fee quote Don't let these companies prey on your stress about tax issues. Most tax problems can be resolved without paying these inflated fees to middlemen who often provide little actual value.
This is such valuable advice, thank you for laying out these options so clearly. I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now where I owe about $8,000 to the IRS and have been getting calls from multiple tax relief companies promising they can "settle my debt for a fraction of what I owe." After reading this thread, I'm definitely going to try calling the IRS directly first before paying anyone thousands of dollars. It's honestly a relief to hear that most people can handle this themselves - these companies make it sound like you need a team of lawyers and specialists just to talk to the IRS. The Low Income Taxpayer Clinic option is something I'd never heard of before. Do you know if there's an income threshold to qualify for their services?
Small tip: After you get this issue resolved, I HIGHLY recommend setting up direct deposit info in your IRS account at https://www.irs.gov/payments/your-online-account rather than leaving it to tax preparers each year. This keeps your bank info consistent regardless of who prepares your taxes. It also lets you check transcripts online to see exactly what's happening with your refund - including rejected direct deposits - without waiting for customer service.
Thank you all so much for the advice! I checked my old savings account and there's no deposit there, so it definitely went to a completely wrong account. I'm going to try both taxr.ai and Claimyr to get this sorted out. Also definitely setting up that IRS account for next year - I had no idea that was an option!
I went through this exact same nightmare last year! My preparer switched two digits in my account number and my $2,400 refund went into the void. Here's what I learned: First, don't wait - contact your preparer immediately and demand they fix this. Most professional preparers carry errors and omissions insurance specifically for mistakes like this. Mine initially tried to brush me off saying "it happens," but when I mentioned their insurance should cover the costs of their mistake, they suddenly became very helpful. Second, file Form 8379 if you're married filing jointly and only one spouse has the banking error - this can help separate your portion of the refund for reprocessing. The good news is that if the account doesn't exist or belongs to someone else, banks are required to return erroneous deposits within a reasonable timeframe. The bad news is "reasonable" can mean anywhere from 3 days to 3 weeks depending on the bank. Document everything - keep records of all calls, emails with your preparer, and IRS correspondence. If this drags on, you may need this for a complaint with your state's board of accountancy if your preparer is licensed. Most importantly, this WILL get resolved. It's frustrating and scary, but the IRS deals with these situations regularly and has processes in place. You're not going to lose your refund permanently.
This is really reassuring to hear from someone who's been through the same thing! I'm definitely going to bring up the insurance issue with my preparer - they've been pretty dismissive so far saying these things just happen sometimes. Can you tell me more about Form 8379? I am married filing jointly, so this might apply to my situation. Also, how long did it ultimately take for you to get your refund back?
Just download it and take screenshots of the codes section. That way you can reference it easier when people try to help explain things to you
I totally get your confusion! CP74 notices can be really overwhelming when you're not familiar with them. Based on what you described, it sounds like you previously had your Child Tax Credit denied (probably flagged for potential fraud or errors), and you successfully completed Form 8862 to recertify for those credits. The good news is that the notice is saying you're all set - your credits have been restored and you should get your refund within 6 weeks! The best part is you won't have to deal with Form 8862 again for these credits in the future. Just keep an eye on your bank account and maybe check your transcript in a few weeks to see if there's a refund date posted. You're basically in the home stretch now! š
Great question about personal assistant deductions! I've been doing bookkeeping for several independent contractors in real estate, and there are a few additional deductions you might be missing. Since you mentioned driving to properties and running errands, make sure you're tracking ALL business miles - not just client meetings but trips to the post office, bank deposits, picking up supplies, etc. Many people only track the obvious trips. For your phone, if you have one line used for both business and personal, you can deduct the business percentage. But if you can get a separate business line, that's 100% deductible and often worth it for the clean record-keeping. One thing people often overlook: professional development expenses. Any courses, certifications, or training related to real estate or admin work are fully deductible. Same with professional memberships or subscriptions to industry publications. Also consider equipment depreciation if you bought a computer, printer, or other office equipment primarily for work. You can either deduct the full cost in the first year (Section 179) or depreciate it over several years. Keep tracking everything in a dedicated business account if possible - makes record-keeping so much cleaner come tax time!
This is really helpful, especially the point about tracking ALL business miles! I've been missing a lot of those smaller trips. Quick question - for the separate business phone line, do you think it's worth getting a second phone or just adding a line to my existing plan? And when you mention professional development, would things like real estate software subscriptions (like MLS access or CRM tools) count as deductible expenses? I'm just starting out so trying to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious.
For the phone line, I'd recommend just adding a second line to your existing plan - it's usually much cheaper than getting a separate phone, and most carriers offer business line add-ons for $10-20/month. You can even get a Google Voice number for free if you want to keep costs down initially. And yes, absolutely! Software subscriptions like MLS access, CRM tools, scheduling apps, document management systems - all 100% deductible as business expenses. Same with things like Canva Pro for marketing materials, DocuSign subscriptions, or cloud storage if you use it for client files. Don't forget about bank fees either - if you open a business checking account (which I highly recommend), those monthly fees and transaction fees are deductible too. It really helps establish that clear separation between business and personal expenses that the IRS loves to see. Since you're just starting out, I'd suggest setting up a simple spreadsheet or using an app like Mint or YNAB to track everything by category. Makes tax prep so much easier when you're organized from day one!
One deduction that's often overlooked for personal assistants in real estate is professional liability insurance! If you're handling sensitive client information or have access to property details, many real estate agents require their assistants to carry E&O (Errors and Omissions) insurance. This is 100% deductible as a business expense. Also, since you mentioned working from cafes - while the coffee itself isn't deductible, if you're buying food/drinks while conducting actual business (like client calls or work meetings), those can qualify as business meals at 50% deduction. Just make sure to note the business purpose on your receipt. For your car expenses, don't forget that parking fees and tolls for business trips are fully deductible on top of your mileage. And if you're using your personal vehicle regularly for work, consider tracking actual expenses (gas, maintenance, insurance percentage) vs. standard mileage rate - sometimes actual expenses work out better, especially if you drive an older, less fuel-efficient vehicle. One last tip: if your broker requires you to maintain a professional appearance for showings, while regular business attire isn't deductible, any special cleaning/dry cleaning costs for clothes worn exclusively during business activities can sometimes qualify. Keep those receipts and notes about the business purpose!
This is such great advice! I had no idea about the E&O insurance being deductible - my broker has been pushing me to get it but I was hesitant about the cost. Knowing it's fully deductible makes it much more manageable. Quick question about the business meals at 50% - does this apply if I'm just taking work calls from a cafe, or does it need to be an actual meeting with clients or colleagues? I do a lot of phone work with clients while at coffee shops, but I'm not sure if that counts as "conducting business" for meal deduction purposes. Also really helpful point about parking and tolls! I've been tracking mileage religiously but completely forgot about all those downtown parking meters when I go to properties. That's probably another $50-100/month I've been missing.
CosmicCaptain
Weirdly, my tax software (TurboTax) asked me if I knew the basis amount even though box 2a was blank on my 1099-R. Anyone else have this happen? Not sure if I should override what's on the form.
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Giovanni Rossi
ā¢Yes! Same thing happened to me. I ended up calling my brokerage (Fidelity) and they gave me my "basis information" which is basically the total amount of contributions I've made. Since my withdrawal was less than my total contributions, I entered that info into TurboTax and it properly showed the distribution as non-taxable.
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Omar Fawaz
I went through this exact same situation last year! The blank box 2a on your 1099-R for a Roth IRA withdrawal is actually pretty common and usually means your financial institution doesn't have enough information to determine what portion is taxable. Here's what I learned: You'll need to calculate this yourself using Form 8606. The key is figuring out your "basis" - basically all the contributions you've made to your Roth IRA over the years (not including any earnings/growth). If your $2,700 withdrawal is less than your total lifetime contributions, then it's likely completely non-taxable and you'd enter $0 for the taxable amount. But if you've withdrawn more than you've contributed, then part of it could be taxable earnings subject to penalties. I'd strongly recommend contacting your IRA custodian to get a statement of your contribution history before filing. They should be able to tell you exactly how much you've contributed versus earnings. Don't guess on this - the IRS can be pretty strict about retirement account distributions!
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