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I use TurboTax and it lets you override the cost basis that's reported on the 1099-B. There's a specific section where you can enter the adjusted cost basis and it even asks why you're making the change. Makes it pretty straightforward.
H&R Block software has the same feature. When you're entering your 1099-B info, there's a checkbox that says something like "My cost basis is different than what's reported" and then you can enter the correct amount and choose the reason (wash sale, etc).
This is a really common issue that trips up a lot of people! The key thing to understand is that the supplemental information typically contains the most accurate cost basis after all adjustments have been made. Your broker might have made adjustments for things like wash sales, dividend reinvestments, or corporate actions that occurred after they initially reported to the IRS. In your case, you should use the $6,325 from the supplemental information. I know it seems counterintuitive to use a number that results in a higher tax bill, but using the correct adjusted basis is what the IRS expects. The difference could be due to wash sales if you bought and sold similar securities within 30 days of each other. When you file, most tax software will have an option to indicate that you're using an adjusted cost basis that differs from Box 1e. Just keep all your 1099-B documents and supplemental materials in case you need to reference them later. The IRS understands these adjustments happen and it's a normal part of investment tax reporting.
This is really helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation but with cryptocurrency trades. Do the same rules apply for crypto 1099-Bs? My exchange sent me a 1099-B but the cost basis calculations seem off compared to what I actually paid, especially for coins I bought in multiple smaller transactions throughout the year. Should I also look for supplemental information from crypto exchanges or is their reporting different?
Quick question for anyone who knows - if I have multiple 1099-DIVs from different brokerages, and several have amounts in Box 5, do I just add all those Box 5 amounts together for Form 8995? Or do I need to list them separately somehow?
You just add all the Box 5 amounts together and report the total on Form 8995. You don't need to list each brokerage separately for the QBI deduction.
I had the same confusion last year with my Vanguard 1099-DIV! The good news is that with your $95K income, you're well below the threshold where things get complicated, so you'll use the simple Form 8995. TurboTax should automatically prompt you for Form 8995 when you enter the Box 5 amount from your 1099-DIV, but sometimes you need to make sure you're in the right section. When you're entering your dividend income, look for a question about "Section 199A dividends" or "qualified business income from investments." The 20% deduction on your Box 5 amount can be pretty substantial - I saved about $150 last year just from my mutual fund dividends. Make sure you don't skip over it! If TurboTax isn't automatically including it, you might need to upgrade from the free version to access Form 8995.
That's really helpful, thanks! I'm curious - do you remember roughly what percentage of your total dividends the Box 5 amount represented? I'm trying to get a sense of whether this is typically a small portion or if it can be a significant chunk of your dividend income. My Box 5 shows about $180 this year, so I'm wondering if that $36 deduction (20% of $180) is worth upgrading my TurboTax version for.
Anybody know if they work with amended returns?
they do but theres usually extra verification steps involved
I've been using Bank Mobile for about 3 years now and honestly it's been pretty reliable for my refunds. The key is to read the fine print - they do have fees but if you stick to their basic direct deposit option (not the instant transfer), it's usually free. Takes about the same time as any other bank, maybe 1-2 business days once the IRS releases it. Just avoid their "rapid refund" upsells - that's where they get you with the fees.
This is super helpful! I was definitely looking at their "rapid refund" option but sounds like that's where they hook you. Good to know the basic direct deposit is free - that's really all I need anyway. Thanks for sharing your experience! š
Emma, what an incredible win - congratulations! I totally understand the mix of excitement and panic you're feeling right now. The tax situation is definitely something to plan for carefully, but please don't let it scare you away from this amazing opportunity. Here's something that might help put things in perspective: even if you end up in the worst-case tax scenario (around 35-40% combined federal and California state taxes), you're still looking at keeping a $35,000+ asset that you received completely free. That's an absolutely life-changing windfall! I'd recommend taking a systematic approach: First, get the exact fair market value the sweepstakes company will report on your 1099-MISC - sometimes this is lower than initial estimates. Then get quotes from multiple Audi dealers to understand your realistic sale price options. This gives you concrete numbers to work with instead of just worrying about hypotheticals. One strategy to consider: you could accept the car, immediately get pre-approved for an auto loan using the vehicle as collateral (maybe 60-70% of its value), which would give you cash on hand to cover the taxes while keeping your options open about whether to keep or sell the car later. Remember, the tax payment isn't due until you file next April, so you have months to plan and save. Don't walk away from this incredible prize - with proper planning, this should be one of the best financial things that's ever happened to you!
This is such thoughtful and reassuring advice, Sofia! I really appreciate how you've broken down the perspective shift - focusing on the net benefit rather than just the tax burden makes this feel so much more manageable. The $35k+ windfall framing really helps counter my panic about owing taxes. Your systematic approach is exactly what I need right now. Getting that exact fair market value from the sweepstakes company is definitely my first priority - you're right that it might be lower than the initial $56k estimate they gave me. The auto loan strategy using the car as collateral is brilliant too - it gives me financial flexibility while I figure out the best long-term decision. The reminder that I have until next April to handle the tax payment is actually really comforting. I was somehow thinking I'd need to come up with the money immediately, but having months to plan and potentially save makes this feel much more doable. Thank you for the encouragement about not walking away from this - a few days ago I was seriously considering declining, but all this practical advice is helping me see what an amazing opportunity this really is!
Emma, congratulations on your amazing win! As someone who's dealt with complex tax situations, I want to offer some reassurance and practical advice. First, take a deep breath - you're not alone in feeling overwhelmed by this. The good news is that even after taxes, you're looking at a substantial financial benefit. Here's what I'd suggest: 1. **Get exact documentation** - Contact the sweepstakes company to confirm the precise fair market value they'll report on your 1099-MISC. Sometimes this differs from initial estimates. 2. **Research your options early** - Get quotes from multiple Audi dealers now to understand your realistic sale price. This gives you a baseline for planning. 3. **Consider the auto loan strategy** - You could get a loan against the car for 60-70% of its value, giving you immediate cash to cover taxes while keeping your options open about whether to keep or sell. 4. **Don't forget about timing** - Your taxes aren't due until you file next April, so you have months to plan. However, with a prize this large, you'll likely need to make estimated quarterly payments to avoid penalties. The most important thing: don't walk away from this opportunity! Even in a high-tax state like California, you're still looking at keeping a $30k+ asset that you got for free. With proper planning, this should be one of the best financial events of your life, not a burden. You've got this - just take it one step at a time!
This is incredibly helpful advice, Jessica! I really appreciate how you've laid out those specific action steps - it makes this whole situation feel much more manageable when I have a clear roadmap to follow. The point about getting exact documentation from the sweepstakes company is something I'm definitely going to do first thing tomorrow. You're right that the actual reported value might be different from that initial $56k estimate, and having the real number will help me plan accurately instead of just guessing. I love the auto loan strategy you mentioned - using 60-70% of the car's value to get immediate cash for taxes while keeping my options open sounds like the perfect middle ground between the all-or-nothing approaches I was considering. It gives me financial security without forcing me to make a rushed decision about keeping versus selling. The reminder about estimated quarterly payments is really important too. I definitely don't want to get hit with penalties on top of everything else. Do you happen to know what percentage of expected tax liability typically triggers the quarterly payment requirement? Thank you so much for the encouragement about not walking away from this! A few days ago I was seriously considering declining the prize because I was so overwhelmed, but advice like yours is helping me see what an incredible opportunity this really is. Even after taxes, this could be truly life-changing!
Laila Prince
Has anyone managed to figure out how to handle the carryover of excess foreign tax credits on Form 1116? I have more foreign tax paid than I can claim this year, and I'm totally confused about how to track this for future years.
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Isabel Vega
ā¢You need to keep track of carryovers by category and year. If you have excess credits in the passive category, they can only be used against future passive income. The credits can be carried forward for 10 years. I recommend creating a spreadsheet to track when each credit was generated and how much you've used each year. The IRS doesn't provide a great way to track this unless you keep all your past tax returns and forms.
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Ruby Blake
I went through this exact same situation last year with foreign dividends and capital gains. Here's what I learned after making some mistakes initially: For your $15,200 in dividend income with $3,700 in foreign taxes withheld - that's straightforward passive income for Form 1116. Make sure you have all your 1099-DIV forms and any foreign tax documents. Regarding your $22,000 capital gains question - this is where it gets tricky. Since you're a US resident making investment decisions from the US, those gains are almost certainly US-source income, even though the stocks are foreign companies. This means they WON'T increase your foreign income on Form 1116, so they won't help you claim more of your paid foreign taxes. The key insight is that the IRS looks at where the economic activity (your investment decisions) occurred, not where the company is headquartered. I initially made the mistake of thinking all my foreign stock gains were foreign-source income and had to file an amended return. One tip: if you paid foreign taxes on those capital gains (which is rare but can happen), that might change the sourcing rules. But in most cases with foreign stocks, you're only dealing with dividend withholding taxes, not capital gains taxes from the foreign country. The good news is your dividend situation alone should give you a decent foreign tax credit. Just make sure to use the correct exchange rates from the IRS website for converting everything to USD.
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CosmicCaptain
ā¢This is incredibly helpful, thank you! I'm just getting started with foreign investments and was wondering - when you mention using "correct exchange rates from the IRS website," are you talking about the daily rates or yearly average rates? I have dividends that came in throughout the year at different times, so I'm not sure if I should use the rate from each specific payment date or just use one average rate for the whole year. Also, did you find that your foreign tax credit actually made a meaningful difference in your final tax bill, or was it pretty minimal? I'm trying to decide if it's worth the complexity or if I should just take the standard deduction approach.
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