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Confusion About ESPP Shares and Calculating Adjusted Basis for Tax Purposes

So I'm trying to figure out my Employee Stock Purchase Plan (ESPP) tax situation and I'm completely lost on the adjusted basis calculation. Here are the details: I bought 43.7921 shares through my company ESPP on 6/15/23 at $45.82 per share (which included the 15% discount from the "Subscription FMV" of $53.91). Then I sold those exact shares just a few days later on 6/22/23 for a total of $2,986.44 (about $68.20 per share). My purchase confirmation shows the original basis was $2,006.53 with the discounted purchase price. The "Purchase FMV" listed on my statement was $71.89 per share on the purchase date. I thought I had this figured out - I was going to report these numbers in TurboTax, then indicate the basis was incorrect and enter an adjusted cost basis. My understanding was that I should add the 15% discount back to calculate the adjusted basis since that amount will be on my W-2 as ordinary income. So I calculated: 43.7921 shares Γ— $53.91 (Subscription FMV) = $2,360.82 as my adjusted basis. This would make my ordinary income $354.29 (the difference between adjusted basis and original basis). But here's where I'm confused... I just got my ESPP Disposition Summary and it says my Ordinary Income from this sale is $1,142.57! What? It looks like they're using the "Purchase FMV" price ($71.89) rather than the "Subscription FMV" price ($53.91). Am I totally misunderstanding how this works? Does it even matter since these are short-term holdings and I'll pay ordinary income tax either way? I'm so confused right now.

Olivia Garcia

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Has anyone used TurboTax to report ESPP sales? I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the cost basis correctly since my 1099-B only shows what I paid, not the adjusted basis after adding back the discount.

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Noah Lee

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I use TurboTax every year for my ESPP sales. When you enter the sale, there's an option to indicate it was an ESPP sale. Then you select "disqualifying disposition" and enter both the purchase price and the FMV on purchase date. TurboTax will automatically calculate the ordinary income portion and the capital gain/loss portion correctly. Make sure you check that the ordinary income amount matches what's on your W-2 though. Sometimes employers report it in Box 1 (wages) and sometimes in Box 14 (other income), but either way it should be included in your W-2 somewhere.

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Olivia Garcia

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That's super helpful! I was trying to manually adjust the cost basis field without using the specific ESPP option. I'll look for that option when I enter my sale information. Thanks for saving me from making a reporting error!

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Dmitri Volkov

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I went through this exact same confusion with my ESPP last year! The key thing to understand is that with a disqualifying disposition (selling within one year), the ordinary income calculation uses the Purchase FMV, not the Subscription FMV. Your ESPP Disposition Summary showing $1,142.57 in ordinary income is correct. Here's the math: 43.7921 shares Γ— ($71.89 Purchase FMV - $45.82 actual purchase price) = $1,142.57. This means your adjusted cost basis for capital gains purposes is actually $71.89 per share (the Purchase FMV), not your original purchase price. So your capital loss would be: $2,986.44 (sale proceeds) - (43.7921 Γ— $71.89) = approximately -$162.66. The total tax impact is roughly the same as you calculated, but it's split between ordinary income (taxed at your marginal rate) and capital loss (which can offset other gains or up to $3,000 of ordinary income). Make sure this ordinary income amount appears somewhere on your W-2 - usually in Box 1 or Box 14.

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Amara Chukwu

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This breakdown is really helpful! I was getting confused by all the different FMV dates, but your explanation makes it clear why the Purchase FMV is used for disqualifying dispositions. One quick question - when you mention the ordinary income should appear on the W-2, is that something that happens automatically or do I need to contact my employer? I haven't received my W-2 yet for this tax year, but I want to make sure I know what to look for when it arrives. Also, does the timing of when the ordinary income gets reported matter? Like, is it reported in the year I purchased the shares or the year I sold them?

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This is exactly the kind of situation where getting professional help pays off, even if it costs a few hundred dollars. Form 8606 mistakes can be really expensive down the road. One thing I don't see mentioned yet - make sure you keep detailed records of all your IRA transactions with dates and amounts. The IRS can ask for documentation going back several years, especially with basis tracking on Form 8606. Also, for future years, consider timing your conversions closer to your contributions to minimize any growth between the two events. Even small amounts of growth can complicate the paperwork significantly. If you're doing regular backdoor Roths, it might be worth setting up a system or spreadsheet to track everything year over year. The basis calculations get more complex as time goes on, especially if you have multiple IRAs or miss filing a Form 8606 in any given year.

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Logan Chiang

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This is great advice! I learned the hard way about record keeping when I had to reconstruct three years of IRA transactions for an audit. Now I keep a simple spreadsheet with every contribution, conversion, and rollover with exact dates and amounts. One tip I'd add - take screenshots of your brokerage account balances on the day you do conversions. Sometimes the 1099-R forms have slightly different amounts due to timing, and having that documentation saved me from a lot of confusion when filling out Form 8606. Also, if anyone is using multiple brokerages for their IRAs, make sure you're aggregating everything correctly for the pro-rata calculations. The IRS looks at ALL your traditional IRAs combined, not each account separately.

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GalacticGuru

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I feel your pain on the Form 8606 confusion! I went through something similar last year with multiple conversions and recharacterizations. Here's what I learned that might help: The timing aspect is crucial - since your recharacterization and conversion both happened in 2024, even though it was for a 2023 contribution, the conversion piece gets reported on your 2024 return. But you're right to include the contribution itself on your 2023 Form 8606. One thing that really helped me was creating a simple timeline of all the transactions with exact dates. It makes it much clearer which tax year each piece belongs to. For your wife's situation with the $3 growth, that's totally normal and you handle it exactly like the other commenters mentioned. The most important thing is making sure you don't miss filing Form 8606 when required, because fixing those mistakes later is a nightmare. I'd definitely recommend double-checking your work or getting it reviewed before filing, especially with the complexity of your situation. Better to spend a little extra time now than deal with IRS correspondence later!

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Creating a timeline is such a smart approach! I wish I had thought of that when I was dealing with my own IRA mess last year. The dates really do matter so much for determining which tax year everything gets reported on. One question - when you say the conversion piece gets reported on 2024 even though it was a 2023 contribution, does that mean you need to file Form 8606 in both years? Like, the contribution shows up on 2023's form and then the conversion shows up on 2024's form? I'm worried about accidentally double-reporting something or missing a piece entirely. Also, totally agree about getting it reviewed! I learned that lesson the hard way when I had to file amended returns. The extra cost upfront is nothing compared to the headache of fixing mistakes later.

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Paloma Clark

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Don't forget some tax software includes fees in their refund calculation while others don't! My "refund" looked $39 different between two programs last year until I realized one was showing my refund AFTER their fee was taken out. Make sure you're comparing the actual tax calculation, not the final deposit amount.

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Heather Tyson

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This!! I had a $75 "difference" that freaked me out until I realized H&R Block was showing me my refund amount after their preparation fees and TurboTax was showing the full amount before fees. Such a sneaky practice!

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Sean Kelly

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I've seen this exact same issue! The $2 difference between FreeTaxUSA and TurboTax is almost certainly due to their different rounding methods, just like others have mentioned. FreeTaxUSA rounds each field to whole dollars while TurboTax carries cents through the calculations. For your Roth IRA contribution, since it's after-tax money, it shouldn't affect your refund amount unless you qualify for the Saver's Credit (which phases out at higher income levels). Double-check that both programs have the same $270 amount entered and that neither is incorrectly treating it as a traditional IRA contribution. One tip: look at your actual tax liability on line 24 of Form 1040 in both programs. If that number matches, then the difference is definitely just rounding and you're good to go with either software!

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Chloe Zhang

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This is really helpful advice! I just checked and both programs show the exact same amount on line 24, so that confirms it's just the rounding difference like everyone's been saying. Quick question though - I'm in a pretty low income bracket this year (around $28k), so would I potentially qualify for that Saver's Credit you mentioned? I had never heard of it before but if my $270 Roth contribution could get me additional credit, that would be amazing!

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Noah Lee

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I've been running an S-corp for about 8 months and have been informally meeting with my co-owner at various locations without realizing we were missing a legitimate tax strategy. Reading through everyone's experiences, I'm convinced this is worth implementing properly. The level of documentation detail shared here - from board resolutions to QuickBooks categorization - gives me confidence I can set this up correctly from the start. One additional consideration I haven't seen mentioned: Does anyone factor in depreciation on the portion of their home used for these meetings? Since we're talking about occasional use (4 days per year), I'm wondering if it's worth the complexity or if most people just stick to the direct expenses and allocable costs like utilities and property taxes. Also, for those using the square footage calculation method - do you measure just the actual meeting space, or do you include related areas like bathrooms and hallways that meeting attendees would use? I want to make sure I'm being reasonable but not leaving legitimate deductions on the table. Thanks again to everyone who shared their real-world implementation details. This is exactly the kind of practical guidance that makes the difference between doing this right versus creating potential audit issues!

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Great questions about depreciation and space measurement! Regarding depreciation - most people I know doing occasional home rentals like this skip the depreciation deduction to avoid complexity. Since we're only talking about 4 days per year, the depreciation amount would be minimal anyway (you'd only depreciate the business-use percentage for those specific days). Plus, taking depreciation can create complications when you eventually sell your home due to depreciation recapture rules. For space measurement, I include the primary meeting areas plus reasonable access to common areas like bathrooms and kitchen if attendees use them. So if I'm using my dining room and home office for the meeting, I calculate that square footage plus a small portion for shared spaces. The key is being reasonable - you don't want to claim your entire house, but you also shouldn't shortchange yourself on legitimate business use areas. I'd suggest starting conservative on both fronts. You can always adjust your approach in future years as you get more comfortable with the arrangement and see how much administrative complexity you want to handle. The most important thing is establishing the legitimate business rental relationship with proper documentation - the optimization of specific deductions can come later once you've got the foundation solid. Your instinct about not leaving legitimate deductions on the table is good, but for occasional use like this, simplicity often trumps maximizing every possible deduction.

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Amara Eze

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This has been such a comprehensive discussion! As someone who just started their S-corp a few months ago, I'm grateful for all the detailed guidance shared here. I'm particularly interested in the documentation aspect - it seems like having everything properly documented upfront is absolutely critical for this to work. The square footage calculation method for determining fair rental rates makes a lot of sense and gives a defensible foundation. One thing I'm wondering about: For those of you who have been doing this successfully, do you ever worry about the optics if you get audited? Even with perfect documentation, I imagine an auditor might initially be skeptical of related-party rental arrangements. How do you prepare mentally for that possibility? Also, I noticed several mentions of taxr.ai and claimyr.com for getting professional guidance. Has anyone compared these services directly, or do they serve different purposes? I'm trying to decide if I should use one of these platforms or just work directly with a CPA who specializes in S-corp strategies. Thanks again to everyone who shared their real-world experience - this thread should be bookmarked by anyone considering this legitimate tax strategy!

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Mei Lin

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I work with financial institutions that partner with tax preparers, and I can share a success story from another client. According to the IRS Direct Deposit Guidelines (available at https://www.irs.gov/refunds/direct-deposit-limits), your refund was directed to the temporary account created when you applied for the advance. Last tax season, I helped a client in your exact situation by having them contact Credit Karma at (800) 672-6397, selecting option 3, then 2, then 1 to reach the tax refund department directly. They were able to request an expedited card and received it within 48 hours. Alternatively, you can ask them to close the temporary account, which forces them to issue a paper check to your address on file within 14 days per their service agreement.

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Dmitry Smirnov

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I'm so sorry you're dealing with this during an already stressful time with your divorce. This is unfortunately a common issue with tax prep services that offer refund advances. Since you applied for the advance through Credit Karma, they automatically created a temporary account for your refund even though you were denied the loan. The routing information on your tax return was changed to direct your refund to their card system instead of your personal bank account. Here's what I recommend: Call Credit Karma's tax refund department at (800) 672-6397 and explain your situation. Ask them to either expedite your card (may have a fee) or transfer the funds to your original bank account. Keep records of all communications since you'll need documentation that this is YOUR refund. You might also want to file a complaint with the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau if they're not responsive - they take these refund access issues seriously. Your money is legally yours, and they're required to provide reasonable access to it.

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This is really helpful advice, @Dmitry Smirnov! I'm dealing with a similar situation right now and didn't know about filing a complaint with the CFPB if Credit Karma isn't responsive. That's a great backup plan. Question for anyone who's been through this - when you called that number, did you have to provide any specific documentation to prove your identity? I want to make sure I have everything ready before I call. Also, has anyone successfully gotten the funds transferred directly to their bank account instead of waiting for the card? That would save me a lot of time since I need access to my refund ASAP.

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