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19 Has anyone considered just waiting until filing your 2024 tax return and paying everything then? I missed my Q4 payment too, but my accountant said sometimes it's simpler to just pay the small penalty rather than jumping through hoops to make a late estimated payment separately.
6 That's what I did last year. The penalty wasn't terrible - I owed about $3,000 for my Q4 payment and the underpayment penalty was like $75. For me, that was worth the simplicity of just handling it all at tax time rather than dealing with making a separate late payment.
23 Another option if you're having trouble with the IRS website is to make the payment by phone. You can call 1-888-PAY-1040 (1-888-729-1040) and make your late Q4 2024 estimated payment over the phone. There's usually a small convenience fee (around $2-3), but it might be worth it to avoid the website navigation issues. When you call, tell them you want to make a 2024 estimated tax payment, and they should be able to process it properly. They can also confirm that your payment is being applied to the correct tax year, which gives you peace of mind that it won't get mixed up with 2025 payments. I've used this method before when the website was being glitchy, and it's usually pretty straightforward. The automated system walks you through everything step by step.
This is really helpful! I didn't know you could call to make the payment. Quick question - when you call that number, do you get connected to a live person or is it all automated? I'm worried about getting stuck in phone tree hell like when trying to reach regular IRS customer service. Also, is there a limit on how much you can pay over the phone this way?
I just went through this exact situation with over 12,000 crypto transactions for 2024. After trying several approaches, here's what ultimately worked best for me: First, don't panic - the IRS has well-established procedures for handling large volumes of crypto transactions, and you definitely don't need to print thousands of Form 8949 pages. I used a hybrid approach that saved me both time and money: 1. Downloaded all transaction data from my exchanges (some via API, others as CSV exports) 2. Used TaxBit to consolidate and calculate everything properly, including wash sale adjustments 3. Created a master Excel spreadsheet with columns matching Form 8949 exactly: Description of Property, Date Acquired, Date Sold, Proceeds, Cost or Other Basis, Adjustment Code (if any), and Gain or Loss The key formatting details that made my filing smooth: - Added "Supplement to Form 8949" as the header on every page - Included my name and SSN on each page - Used clear page numbering (Page X of Y) - Added a summary page at the end with grand totals On the actual Form 8949, I checked Box C in Part II ("Transactions not reported to you on Form 1099-B"), wrote "See attached supplement" in the description area, and entered my calculated totals on line 2. The whole process took me about 6 hours total (mostly waiting for API imports), versus what would have been weeks of manual work. My return was processed normally with no additional questions from the IRS. Feel free to ask if you need clarification on any part of this process - happy to help a fellow crypto tax sufferer!
This is exactly the kind of detailed walkthrough I needed to see! Thank you for breaking down the process so clearly. I have a couple of follow-up questions: When you mention using TaxBit for consolidation, how did it handle transactions between your own wallets (like transferring crypto from one wallet to another)? I have hundreds of these internal transfers mixed in with my actual trades, and I want to make sure they're not being counted as taxable events. Also, for the "Description of Property" column - did you use the specific coin names (like "Bitcoin" or "Ethereum") or did you include more detailed descriptions like exchange names or transaction types? I'm trying to figure out the right level of detail to include without making it overly complicated. Finally, about 6 hours total sounds almost too good to be true for 12,000+ transactions. Was most of that time spent on the initial setup and imports, or did you have to do significant manual review and corrections afterward?
Great questions! Let me address each one: For wallet-to-wallet transfers, TaxBit handled them correctly by recognizing them as non-taxable transfers rather than sales. The key is making sure your transaction data clearly shows the sending and receiving addresses belong to you. I had to manually tag a few wallets as "mine" in the system initially, but once that was done, it automatically filtered out internal transfers from taxable events. You'll still want to review this section carefully since misclassifying transfers as sales could significantly inflate your tax liability. For the Description of Property column, I kept it simple with just the coin names (Bitcoin, Ethereum, etc.) rather than including exchange details. The IRS primarily cares about what asset was traded, when, and for how much - not which specific exchange was used. Adding too much detail actually made the spreadsheet harder to read during my initial attempts. You're right to be skeptical about the 6-hour timeline! Most of that was indeed setup and automated imports (about 4 hours), but I did spend roughly 2 hours on manual review. The bulk of transactions imported cleanly, but I found maybe 50-60 that needed manual corrections - mostly from smaller exchanges with inconsistent CSV formats or missing cost basis data from older transactions. The time savings really comes from not having to manually enter 12,000+ rows of data. The automated wash sale calculations alone probably saved me 10+ hours of manual work, and that feature paid for the software cost several times over.
I'm dealing with a similar situation but with around 6,000 transactions. Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful! One thing I'm still unclear on though - when you attach your spreadsheet as a supplement to Form 8949, does it need to be printed and mailed with a paper return, or can you attach the Excel/PDF file if you're e-filing? I've been putting off filing because I wasn't sure about the electronic submission process for large attachments. My tax software (TurboTax) keeps crashing when I try to enter more than a few hundred transactions manually, so the attached spreadsheet approach seems like my best bet. Just want to make sure I can still e-file rather than having to mail everything in. Also, has anyone had experience with the IRS questioning the format or requesting additional documentation after submitting this way? I'm worried about getting a follow-up letter asking for more details or different formatting.
Great question about e-filing vs paper filing! You can absolutely e-file with an attached spreadsheet supplement. When you e-file, you'll upload your spreadsheet as a PDF attachment along with your return - most tax software and tax preparers can handle this. The key is making sure your spreadsheet is saved as a PDF rather than leaving it as an Excel file for the electronic submission. TurboTax's crashing issue with large transaction volumes is super common - that's exactly why the attached spreadsheet method exists. Instead of trying to enter thousands of transactions into their system, you just enter the summary totals on Form 8949 and attach your detailed spreadsheet. Regarding IRS follow-up, I haven't personally experienced any issues, but from what I've seen in this community, the IRS rarely questions well-formatted spreadsheet submissions. The key is making sure your spreadsheet includes all the same information that would be on individual Form 8949 pages - date acquired, date sold, proceeds, cost basis, and gain/loss. As long as your math is correct and the format is clear, they typically process these without additional requests. One tip: when you create your PDF attachment, make sure it's clearly labeled and includes your SSN on each page. This helps the IRS processing center match it to your return efficiently.
Has anyone else gotten confused about the ordering of NOL usage? My understanding is that you have to use the oldest losses first, but our tax software seems to be applying them differently.
Yes, you generally use NOLs on a FIFO basis (first in, first out), so oldest NOLs get utilized first. But there's also a distinction between pre-2018 NOLs and post-2018 NOLs because they have different rules. Pre-2018 can offset 100% of taxable income while post-2018 can only offset 80%. What tax software are you using?
I'm dealing with a similar situation as a new startup owner. One thing that helped me understand this better was realizing that Form 1120 line 29a is specifically for the NOL deduction you're claiming in the CURRENT year, not just tracking your total accumulated losses. Since you have negative taxable income again this year, you won't enter anything on line 29a because there's no positive income to offset. But you're absolutely building up your NOL carryforward balance - you'll have $42,000 from year 1 plus your new $38,000 loss from this year. The key is maintaining good records of these accumulated losses. I keep a simple schedule that tracks each year's NOL separately because when you eventually become profitable, you'll need to apply them in the correct order (oldest first) and follow the 80% limitation rule for post-2017 losses. Don't worry - you're not missing out on any tax benefits by not using the NOLs now. They'll be there waiting for you when your startup starts generating taxable income!
This is really helpful! I'm also a startup founder dealing with NOLs and was confused about the same thing. Just to clarify - when you say "maintaining good records," are you just keeping your own internal spreadsheet or is there something specific the IRS requires us to file or attach to our returns while we're accumulating these losses? I want to make sure I'm not missing any required documentation that could cause problems later when we actually start using the NOLs.
@Sean Flanagan Great question! For the IRS, you don t'need to file any special forms or attachments while you re'accumulating NOLs - the losses are already documented through your regular Form 1120 filings each year they (show up in your taxable income calculation .)However, I d'strongly recommend keeping your own detailed internal records. I maintain a spreadsheet that tracks each year s'NOL amount, the tax year it originated, and any special notes about how it was calculated. This becomes crucial later when you start applying the losses and need to show the IRS your methodology if questioned. The IRS doesn t'require specific documentation format, but having clear records helps enormously during tax prep and potential audits. I also keep copies of the relevant tax returns and financial statements that support each year s'NOL calculation. Better to over-document than scramble later when you re'finally profitable!
In addition to what others have said, make sure you're tracking ALL your expenses, not just mileage! I do all these delivery apps too and was leaving money on the table my first year. Deductible expenses: - Phone bill (% used for gig work) - Phone holder/mount for car - Hot bags (if you bought your own) - Portion of car insurance - Parking fees while waiting for orders - Dashcams (safety equipment) - Cleaning supplies for your car - Masks, hand sanitizer, etc. If you use the actual expense method instead of standard mileage rate, you can also deduct gas, maintenance, repairs, etc., but usually the standard mileage rate is better.
Wait, you can deduct hot bags? I bought like 3 different ones trying to find one that actually keeps food warm. Also, what percent of your phone bill do you usually deduct?
Yes, hot bags are definitely deductible! They're business equipment necessary for your delivery work. I deducted all three bags I bought too - keep those receipts! For phone bill percentage, I calculate it based on how much I actually use my phone for gig work versus personal use. I track my delivery hours versus total phone usage time. For me, it works out to about 30-35% since I do deliveries part-time. Some people just estimate, but I'd recommend being conservative and keeping records in case you get audited. Also don't forget phone accessories like car chargers, portable battery packs, and phone cases if you bought them specifically for delivery work!
Great thread! I went through this exact same confusion last year with DoorDash, Uber Eats, and Postmates. One thing I learned the hard way is to make sure you reconcile your bank deposits with what the platforms report. DoorDash's 1099-NEC was straightforward, but Uber's tax summary sometimes includes tips and other payments that might not match exactly with your bank records due to timing differences. I had to go through my statements month by month to make sure I wasn't missing any income or double-counting anything. Also, even though you can combine everything on one Schedule C, I'd suggest keeping a simple spreadsheet that breaks down your income by platform just for your own records. It helps you see which apps are actually worth your time and makes it easier if you ever need to answer questions about your income sources. The business code 492000 that Anastasia mentioned is spot on - that's what I used and had no issues with the IRS.
This is such helpful advice about reconciling bank deposits! I'm dealing with this exact issue right now - my Uber summary shows one amount but my actual deposits don't quite match up. Did you find any specific patterns in the timing differences? Like were tips always delayed by a certain number of days or was it more random? Also, your point about the spreadsheet breakdown is smart. I've been thinking it would help me figure out which time slots are most profitable for each app too, not just which apps overall.
AstroExplorer
Just a quick tip - when you make partial payments to the IRS, make sure you classify them correctly. When I did this last year, I made the mistake of marking one payment as an "estimated tax payment" instead of "tax return payment" and it caused some confusion. Double check that you're selecting the right tax year and payment type!
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Giovanni Moretti
ā¢This happened to me too! The IRS credited it to the wrong year and I got a notice saying I hadn't paid enough. Such a headache to fix.
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Fatima Al-Farsi
Great question! I went through this exact same situation a few years back. Yes, you can absolutely make split payments - the IRS doesn't require one lump sum payment as long as everything is paid by the deadline. A few practical tips from my experience: - Use IRS Direct Pay (it's free and you can schedule multiple payments) - Keep a simple spreadsheet or note tracking each payment amount and date - Consider spacing them about 1-2 weeks apart so you have time to ensure each payment clears before making the next one - Make sure your final payment is at least a few days before the deadline, not on the last day With only $563 owed, splitting it into 2-3 payments should be very manageable and won't trigger any issues with the IRS. Much better than stressing your budget with one big payment!
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Natasha Ivanova
ā¢This is really helpful advice! I like the idea of keeping a spreadsheet to track payments - that seems like it would give me peace of mind knowing exactly where I stand. Quick question about the timing - you mentioned spacing payments 1-2 weeks apart to make sure they clear. Do you know roughly how long it takes for IRS Direct Pay to process? I want to make sure I'm not cutting it too close to the deadline.
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