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If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Wesley Hallow

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I'm actually a bit confused why you need Form 8453 at all? I've been e-filing for years and have never had to mail anything afterward. Most tax software handles everything electronically now.

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Justin Chang

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It depends on your specific tax situation. Form 8453 is only required in certain cases where you have documents that can't be e-filed. Most common e-filed returns don't need it anymore, but there are exceptions like certain paper statements that require signatures, supporting documentation for specific deductions, or certain types of foreign income reporting.

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Sofia Peña

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I had a similar situation last year! The 3 business day rule mentioned earlier is correct - you wait for IRS acceptance confirmation, then mail Form 8453 within 3 business days. One thing that might help with your timing concerns: you can actually prepare everything in advance. Get your Form 8453 ready to go (just don't sign it until after e-file acceptance), put all required attachments together, and have the envelope addressed and stamped. That way, as soon as you get the acceptance email, you can quickly sign the form and drop it in the mail. Since you're leaving April 20th, I'd suggest e-filing by April 15th at the latest to give yourself a buffer. Most e-file acceptances come through within 24-48 hours, so you should have time to mail the 8453 before your trip. Also double-check with your tax software exactly which documents you need to include - sometimes it flags Form 8453 when it's not actually required for your specific situation.

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Samantha Hall

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This is really helpful advice about preparing everything in advance! I'm in a similar situation where I need to travel soon after filing. Quick question - when you say "don't sign it until after e-file acceptance," does that mean the signature date on Form 8453 should match the date you actually mail it, not the date you originally filed electronically? I want to make sure I'm not creating any timing issues with the IRS by having mismatched dates.

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Sophia Long

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I worked with Credit Karma customers during tax season last year. The official policy as of April 2nd, 2024 is that they don't guarantee early deposits, but in practice, most refunds hit 1-2 days before the DDD. If your DDD is April 12th, I'd expect to see it by April 11th at the latest. If it doesn't show up by end of day on the 12th, that's when you should start investigating. Remember that the IRS sometimes batches refunds differently on holidays and weekends, so timing can vary.

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Lauren Zeb

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Thanks for sharing your Credit Karma Spend experiences everyone! I'm also waiting on a refund with CK Spend (DDD of 4/15) and this thread has been super helpful. Based on what I'm reading here, it sounds like there's a good chance of getting it 1-2 days early, but it's not guaranteed like some other banks advertise. I've been checking the app obsessively too - glad to know I'm not the only one! Going to try to be patient and check Monday/Tuesday morning. Fingers crossed for all of us still waiting!

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I'm in the exact same boat with a 4/15 DDD! This thread has been a lifesaver - I was starting to think I was going crazy checking the app every few hours. It's reassuring to hear that most people seem to get it 1-2 days early with CK Spend, even if they don't officially advertise it. I'm going to try the notification setup that Carter mentioned and stop obsessively refreshing. Good luck to both of us!

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GalaxyGazer

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Another option if you're still stuck is to check with your tax preparer or CPA if you used one during the years around when you purchased the stock. Sometimes they keep copies of old tax returns that might have records of dividend income from that stock, which could help establish when you owned it and potentially give clues about your purchase timing. Also, don't forget to check your old bank statements if you still have access to them online. Many banks keep records going back 7+ years, and you might find the withdrawal or transfer that funded the stock purchase. Even if it doesn't give you the exact cost basis, it could help narrow down the purchase date and amount, which you can then cross-reference with historical prices. The key thing is to document whatever method you use and keep records showing you made a good faith effort. The IRS is generally reasonable about these situations when you can show you tried to find the actual information.

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Nia Thompson

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This is really helpful advice! I never thought about checking old bank statements. I actually still have access to my old Chase account online and they do keep records going back quite a while. Even if I can't find the exact purchase amount, knowing the approximate date would be huge for looking up historical prices. The point about documenting your methodology is so important too. I've been worried about getting in trouble with the IRS, but it sounds like as long as you show you made a reasonable effort, they understand these situations happen with older investments.

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I went through something very similar about two years ago with an old Fidelity account. What ended up working for me was a combination approach that might help you too. First, I contacted Schwab's customer service and specifically asked to speak with someone in their "account reconstruction" department - apparently they have specialists who deal with exactly these kinds of missing cost basis issues from acquisitions. The regular customer service reps couldn't help, but this specialized team had access to more historical TD Ameritrade data than what shows up in your online account. When that didn't get me everything I needed, I used the IRS's own guidance from Publication 551. They actually have a section that covers "Unknown or Indeterminable Cost" and provides a framework for making reasonable estimates. The key is being able to show you made a good faith effort to find the actual information. I ended up creating a simple spreadsheet documenting: 1) All the places I looked for records, 2) The approximate timeframe I remembered buying (even if it was just "sometime in 2011-2012"), 3) Historical price data from that period, and 4) My reasoning for the estimate I used. I attached this as a statement with my tax return. The IRS never questioned it, and my CPA said this approach shows due diligence while being conservative about not understating the tax owed. Much better than using zero and overpaying significantly.

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Simon White

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This is exactly the kind of detailed, methodical approach I was looking for! I had no idea Schwab had an "account reconstruction" department - that's incredibly helpful to know. I'm definitely going to try calling and specifically asking for that department instead of just general customer service. Your spreadsheet documentation method sounds really smart too. Having that kind of paper trail showing all the steps you took would definitely give me more confidence when filing. Did you end up having to mail in a paper return with the attached statement, or were you able to e-file somehow with the documentation? I'm also curious - when you looked at historical price data for your estimated timeframe, did you use the average price for that period, or did you pick a specific date? I'm trying to figure out the most defensible approach for my situation.

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Don't forget about quarterly estimated tax payments! I do similar expert calls and got hit with an underpayment penalty my first year because I wasn't making quarterly payments. Since you don't have taxes withheld from these payments like your regular job, you're supposed to pay as you go.

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Paolo Moretti

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Is there a minimum amount you need to earn before quarterly payments are required? I only do 4-5 of these calls per year.

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Great question about quarterly payments! Generally, if you expect to owe $1,000 or more in taxes when you file your return, you should make quarterly estimated payments. With 4-5 calls at $350-500 each, you're probably looking at $1,400-2,500 in additional income, which could easily put you over that threshold when you factor in self-employment tax. The safe harbor rule is helpful here - if you pay at least 100% of last year's total tax liability through withholding and estimated payments (110% if your prior year AGI was over $150k), you won't face penalties even if you owe when you file. I'd recommend calculating roughly 25-30% of your consulting income and setting it aside for taxes. You can always adjust if needed, but it's better to overpay slightly than get hit with underpayment penalties.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to all this tax stuff and wasn't even aware of the quarterly payment requirement. Quick question - when you say "safe harbor rule," does that mean if I just increase my W-2 withholding at my day job to cover the extra taxes, I can avoid having to make separate quarterly payments? That might be easier for me to manage than remembering to send checks four times a year.

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Michael Green

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One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the importance of understanding how the passive activity loss rules interact with material participation. Even if you qualify for material participation on both properties, your ability to deduct losses may still be limited by your adjusted gross income (AGI). If your AGI is under $100,000, you can generally deduct up to $25,000 in rental real estate losses per year (assuming you actively participate, which is a lower standard than material participation). This allowance phases out between $100,000-$150,000 AGI and is completely eliminated above $150,000. However, if you truly qualify as a real estate professional (which requires both material participation AND more than 750 hours annually in real estate activities, with real estate being your primary business), then the passive loss limitations don't apply at all. Given that you're managing two STRs with all the activities you described, you might actually qualify as a real estate professional, which would allow you to deduct all losses against any type of income. This could be much more valuable than just claiming material participation. Definitely worth discussing with your CPA - the real estate professional status can be a game-changer for tax savings.

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Amina Toure

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This is such an important distinction that I think gets overlooked by a lot of people! The difference between material participation and real estate professional status can be huge from a tax perspective. From what the original poster described - managing two STRs with all that hands-on involvement in guest communication, maintenance, remodeling coordination, etc. - it sounds like they could very well hit that 750-hour threshold. Especially with one property under major renovation, those hours add up fast. The key question for @7b3c091871f8 would be whether real estate activities constitute more than 50% of their total work time. If they have other full-time jobs, that might be challenging to meet. But if they're treating the STR business as their primary occupation, real estate professional status could unlock much better tax treatment than just material participation alone. Definitely worth running the numbers with the CPA to see if it's worth pursuing. The documentation requirements are more stringent, but the tax benefits can be substantial.

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Ellie Perry

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Great question! You're absolutely on the right track with material participation. Based on your description, you're clearly meeting multiple tests - likely Test #2 (substantially all participation) since you and your wife handle everything yourselves, and definitely Test #3 (100+ hours with no one else participating more). The renovation property is actually a perfect example of material participation. All those hours you're spending coordinating contractors, making design decisions, purchasing materials, and planning the remodel count fully toward your material participation requirements. The IRS doesn't require the property to be generating income for these activities to qualify. Here's what I'd suggest documenting before your CPA meeting: - Create detailed time logs for both properties (even reconstruct past months from calendars/receipts if needed) - Separate your renovation activities into categories like planning, contractor coordination, material purchasing, and direct oversight - Don't forget to include travel time to/from the property One additional consideration: Given the scope of activities you're describing across two properties plus a major renovation, you might want to explore whether you qualify as a "real estate professional" under IRC Section 469(c)(7). This requires 750+ hours annually in real estate activities and real estate being more than 50% of your work time. If you qualify, you can deduct ALL losses against any income type, not just passive income - which could be much more valuable than standard material participation treatment. Your CPA should be impressed with your level of involvement. You're in a strong position!

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