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I had a similar situation and my accountant told me to keep track of "startup" activities vs ongoing business expenses. Apparently pre-opening costs have different rules than regular business expenses. You might want to check out IRS Publication 535 (Business Expenses) which talks about the difference. I think you can elect to amortize startup costs over 15 years or something like that.

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Zara Ahmed

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Publication 535 is definitely helpful, but for rental properties specifically, also look at Publication 527 "Residential Rental Property." It covers the exact scenario of when you can start taking deductions and depreciation based on when a property is "placed in service.

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Cameron Black

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The key distinction you need to understand is between startup costs and regular business expenses. Since you already have rental properties, this new property expansion might not qualify for the same startup cost treatment as someone just entering the rental business. For your $14,000 in repairs, you'll need to categorize each expense: 1. **Repairs that restore the property to working condition** (fixing plumbing, painting) - these can typically be deducted immediately once the property is placed in service 2. **Improvements that add value or extend useful life** (upgraded flooring, better water heater) - these must be depreciated over 27.5 years 3. **Costs incurred before the property was available for rent** - these might need special treatment The critical date is when you made the property "available for rent" - not when you found a tenant. If you completed repairs in November 2022 but didn't list it until January 2023, then January 2023 is likely your "placed in service" date. This means you'd claim the deductible expenses on your 2023 return, not 2022. However, if you can demonstrate the property was ready and you were actively seeking tenants in 2022 (even informally), you might be able to claim 2022 as the placed-in-service year. I'd recommend getting professional guidance since the timing affects not just which year you claim expenses, but also how they're treated under passive activity loss rules.

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Ravi Kapoor

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Can someone explain why my tax software is showing completely different numbers for the SALT cap in different sections? On one screen it shows I exceeded the cap by $8,235 but then in the summary section it says I'm under the cap. I'm so confused!

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Oliver Weber

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Tax software can sometimes display information confusingly. What might be happening is one screen is showing your total SALT taxes (before the cap) while another is showing what's actually being deducted after applying the $10,000 limit. Or there could be business/rental property taxes in one total that aren't subject to the cap.

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Freya Nielsen

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Check if some of your property taxes are for a rental property or business. Those would be reported on Schedule E or Schedule C, not Schedule A, and aren't subject to the $10,000 SALT cap. The software might be calculating correctly but displaying the information in a confusing way.

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This is a great question that trips up a lot of people! The SALT deduction cap is one of the most confusing parts of the current tax code. Just to add some context to the excellent explanations already given - the reason you're seeing such a dramatic difference between 2024 and 2025 is likely because: 1. You mentioned buying a house in late 2024, so 2025 is your first full year of property tax payments 2. Property taxes can easily be $15k-25k+ annually depending on your location and home value 3. Combined with state income taxes, this quickly pushes you over the $10k cap One thing to keep in mind is that this SALT cap is currently set to expire after 2025, so it may not be a permanent limitation. However, nothing is guaranteed until Congress acts. Also, make sure you're not double-counting any property taxes that might have been prorated at closing - those should only be deducted once, in the year you actually paid them to the tax authority (not necessarily when they were due).

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This is really helpful context! I hadn't thought about the timing aspect with the property tax proration at closing. When I bought my house in December 2024, there were some property tax adjustments on the closing statement - should I be looking at what I actually paid to the county versus what was shown on the closing docs? Also, it's good to know the SALT cap might expire after 2025. Do you know if there's any indication from Congress about whether they'll extend it or let it expire? This would make a huge difference for my tax planning going forward, especially since I'm probably going to be hitting this cap every year now as a homeowner.

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Miguel Ortiz

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For the property tax proration question - you should deduct what you actually paid to the taxing authority (county/municipality), not what appeared as adjustments on your closing statement. At closing, you and the seller typically split the annual property tax bill based on how many days each of you owned the property that year. The closing statement shows this proration, but only the amounts you actually paid to the tax collector are deductible. As for the SALT cap expiration, Congress hasn't made any definitive moves yet, but there's been discussion from both parties about addressing it. Some want to eliminate the cap entirely, others want to raise it, and some want to extend it as-is. With it expiring after 2025, we'll likely see more concrete proposals as we get closer to the deadline. For planning purposes, I'd prepare for both scenarios - having the cap continue and having it expire - since the political winds can change quickly on tax policy.

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Great question about cell phone deductions! Just to add to the excellent advice already given - when you're calculating that 70% business use percentage, make sure you're being consistent across all your mixed-use items. The IRS likes to see that your methodology makes sense and that you're applying the same logic to similar expenses. One thing I learned the hard way is to document your business use percentage calculation method in writing and keep it with your tax records. Don't just estimate - write down something like "Based on tracking calls/texts for 3 weeks in March, approximately 70% of phone usage was for client communications and work-related activities." This kind of documentation can be invaluable if you ever get questioned. Also, since you mentioned you're doing contractor work, remember that you can deduct the business portion of your monthly phone bill too, not just the phone itself. If you're using 70% for business, that applies to your monthly service costs as well. These ongoing expenses can really add up over the year!

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Cameron Black

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This is really helpful advice about documenting the methodology! I'm just starting out with contractor work and honestly had no idea I needed to write down HOW I calculated my business use percentage. I was just planning to wing it with rough estimates. Your point about being consistent across all mixed-use items is something I hadn't thought about either - if I claim 70% business use for my phone, I should probably use a similar percentage for my laptop and other equipment that I use the same way. Thanks for the heads up about keeping written documentation with tax records too!

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One thing I'd add to all this great advice - make sure you understand the difference between expensing and depreciating your phone. If it's under $2,500 (which most phones are), you can use the de minimis safe harbor rule and deduct the full business percentage in the year you purchase it. But if you go with a really expensive phone or bundle it with accessories that push the total over that threshold, you'll need to depreciate it over several years. Also, for your pre-business purchases like that monitor and keyboard - the fair market value when you start using them for business is key. You can't use the original purchase price if the items have depreciated. Look up what similar used items are selling for when you convert them to business use. This protects you if the IRS questions why you're claiming a deduction on something you bought months before starting your business. One last tip: set up a simple system now for tracking all this stuff going forward. Whether it's a spreadsheet, an app, or just a notebook, start documenting business use percentages and dates right away. It's so much easier than trying to reconstruct everything at tax time!

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Zara Malik

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This is exactly the kind of detailed info I was looking for! The de minimis safe harbor rule at $2,500 is super helpful to know - my new iPhone will definitely be under that threshold so I can deduct the full business percentage right away. Your point about using fair market value for the pre-business items is really important too. I was planning to just use what I originally paid for my monitor and keyboard, but you're right that I need to figure out what they were actually worth when I started using them for business. That makes total sense from an IRS perspective. I'm definitely going to set up a tracking system now rather than scrambling later. Do you have any recommendations for simple ways to track business use percentages ongoing? I'm thinking maybe just a basic spreadsheet with dates and brief notes about how I'm using each item?

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Oliver Becker

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I've been selling Magic cards for about 5 years now, and the distinction between dealer and investor isn't always clear-cut. I maintain three separate categories: 1. Personal collection (never for sale, held 2+ years) 2. Long-term specs (purchased specifically as investments, held 1+ years) 3. Active inventory (regular buying/selling) For tax purposes, #1 and #2 qualify for collectible capital gains treatment when I occasionally sell, while #3 is ordinary income. The key is DOCUMENTATION. I track purchase date, price, condition, and intended purpose (collection, investment, or inventory) at the time of purchase. When audited two years ago, this system held up because I had consistent records showing clear intent and separate physical storage for each category. Without that paper trail, the IRS would have classified everything as dealer inventory.

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Ava Rodriguez

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That's really helpful! For your documentation, do you use specialized software or just something like Excel? And approximately what percentage of your cards fall into each of the three categories?

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I use a combination of Excel and TCGPLAYER's collection tracker. For tracking, I'd estimate it breaks down roughly 40% personal collection, 30% long-term specs, and 30% active inventory. The key is being consistent with your classifications from day one - you can't just decide something was "investment" versus "inventory" after the fact based on how well it performed. For documentation, I photograph high-value cards with timestamps and keep receipts/screenshots of all purchases. The IRS really focuses on your intent at the time of purchase, so contemporaneous records are crucial. I also maintain a simple log noting why I bought each item (personal enjoyment, expected appreciation, quick flip opportunity, etc.).

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Ashley Adams

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a similar situation with sports cards and was completely confused about the tax implications. One thing I'd add based on my research is that the Section 1202 qualified small business stock exclusion might apply in certain situations if you incorporate your business properly, though it's pretty complex. Also, for anyone considering the business route, don't forget about quarterly estimated tax payments. Once you're making significant income from card sales, you'll need to pay estimated taxes throughout the year rather than waiting until April. I learned this the hard way and got hit with underpayment penalties my first year. The documentation advice from everyone here is spot on - I wish I had started tracking everything from the beginning instead of trying to recreate records later. Now I photograph every card I buy with the receipt and note my intent right in the filename.

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James Maki

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This is really valuable information! I'm just starting to get into collecting Pokemon cards and had no idea about the quarterly estimated tax payments requirement. When you say "significant income," is there a specific threshold where this kicks in, or is it more of a general guideline? Also, your point about photographing cards with receipts is brilliant - I've been just throwing receipts in a shoebox which is probably not going to cut it if I ever get audited. Do you use any particular naming convention for your photo files to make them easier to organize later?

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Sofia Ramirez

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Has anybody tried just printing and mailing their return instead of e-filing? After my second rejection I just said screw it and mailed everything in. No rejection possible that way!

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Dmitry Popov

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I did that last year after getting fed up with e-file issues. Just remember it takes FOREVER to process paper returns. I mailed mine in February and didn't get my refund until June. E-file refunds usually come in 2-3 weeks. Also don't forget you need to sign the physical form - I forgot and they sent it back to me after 8 weeks!

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Natalia Stone

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Thanks for sharing this solution! I went through the exact same frustrating cycle of rejections last month. What made it even more confusing was that H&R Block's error message just said "incorrect AGI" without any mention that amendments could be the culprit. For anyone else dealing with this - another thing to watch out for is if you filed a superseding return (not just an amendment) the previous year. The IRS treats these differently than regular 1040-X amendments, and you might need the AGI from your very first filing, not the superseding return. Also, if you can't locate your original pre-amendment AGI, you can request a wage and income transcript from the IRS website (irs.gov) which will show exactly what they have on file for verification purposes. Way faster than calling and waiting on hold!

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Maya Jackson

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This is super helpful! I had no idea there was a difference between regular amendments and superseding returns. Quick question - how do you access those wage and income transcripts on the IRS website? Is it the same login system they use for checking refund status, or is it a different portal? I'm dealing with this exact issue right now and calling the IRS sounds like a nightmare based on what everyone's saying about hold times.

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