I'm dealing with this exact same Tax Topic 151 situation right now and it's been such a stressful experience! Filed my return in February and have been stuck in this limbo for almost 10 weeks now. What's been helpful for me is keeping a detailed log of every interaction with the IRS - dates I called, reference numbers given, what each representative told me, etc. I've noticed that different agents sometimes give conflicting information, so having everything written down helps me stay consistent when I call back. Also, I learned that Tax Topic 151 combined with the appeal rights notice usually means they're doing a more thorough review than just a simple verification. In my case, they're apparently reviewing multiple aspects of my return including my filing status and some deductions I claimed. One tip that actually worked: when calling the IRS, I found that calling right at 7 AM when they open gets you through much faster than calling later in the day. The wait times are still long but definitely more manageable in the early morning. Stay patient everyone - I know it's easier said than done when you're counting on that money, but from everything I'm reading here it sounds like most people do get their refunds eventually, just with major delays.

I'm currently dealing with Tax Topic 151 as well and it's been over 12 weeks since I filed! What's really frustrating is that I got the same reference number 1242 and extension 362 when I called. The IRS representative told me they're reviewing my Earned Income Tax Credit, but couldn't give me any timeline beyond "it will take as long as it takes." One thing I discovered that might help others - if you have a local Taxpayer Advocate Service office, they can sometimes intervene if your refund has been delayed more than a certain period (I think it's around 21 days past the original expected date). I'm planning to contact them this week since I'm way past any reasonable timeframe. Also, for what it's worth, I checked my account transcript online and saw some codes that others mentioned - specifically the 570 code for the hold and 971 for notices issued. At least seeing those codes made me feel like there's actually some progress happening behind the scenes, even though it doesn't feel like it from our end. The waiting is absolutely brutal when you're counting on that money. Sending solidarity to everyone else stuck in this Tax Topic 151 limbo!

Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful! I've been struggling with this exact same issue using TaxSlayer and my E*TRADE 1099-B. Based on what everyone's shared, I think I've been overcomplicating this whole process. I was trying to enter every single transaction individually when I could have been using summary reporting for most of them. One thing I'm still confused about though - if I have wash sales that span across different reporting categories (some in Box A, some in Box B), do I need to allocate the wash sale adjustments proportionally to each summary entry? Or can I just put the total wash sale adjustment in one category? Also, for anyone who's used the copy feature in TaxSlayer that was mentioned - does it work when you're doing summary entries, or is that only useful when entering individual transactions? Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences. This community has been way more helpful than TaxSlayer's customer support!

I've been following this thread closely since I'm dealing with the exact same TaxSlayer/1099-B nightmare! Just wanted to add a few things that might help others who are still struggling: For those using the summary reporting method (which seems to be the consensus best approach), make sure you're looking at the "Aggregate" section at the bottom of your 1099-B. This section shows the totals for each category and can save you from having to manually add up all the individual transactions. One thing I learned the hard way - TaxSlayer has different screens for "covered" vs "non-covered" securities. If you can't find where to enter certain transactions, check if you're on the right screen based on whether Box D is checked on your 1099-B. Also, for the wash sale confusion - I found it helpful to highlight all the wash sale amounts in column (g) on my paper 1099-B before starting. That way I could easily reference them while entering data and make sure I didn't miss any. The most important thing I learned from this thread: don't let TaxSlayer's confusing interface intimidate you into thinking you need to enter every single trade individually. The summary method is legitimate and will save you hours of frustration!

I completely understand your frustration! I went through the exact same thing earlier this year. Credit Karma Tax was such a reliable free option, and when I couldn't find it, I thought I'd have to start paying for tax software too. The good news is that Credit Karma Tax still exists, just under a new name - Cash App Taxes. When Intuit bought Credit Karma, they were required by antitrust regulators to sell off the tax filing portion, which was purchased by Square/Block (the company behind Cash App). Cash App Taxes is essentially the same service you're used to - same interface, same ease of use, and most importantly, still completely free for both federal and state returns with no income limits. You can access it directly at cash.app/taxes without needing to download the Cash App mobile app or create a payment account. I used it for my 2024 return and it handled everything just like Credit Karma used to - W-2s, investment income, and even some freelance work on Schedule C. The whole experience was basically identical to what I was used to with Credit Karma Tax. If Cash App Taxes doesn't work out for some reason, FreeTaxUSA is another solid backup option (free federal, small state fee). But I think you'll find Cash App Taxes is exactly what you're looking for to avoid those TurboTax fees!

I can definitely help clarify this situation! You're absolutely right that Credit Karma Tax is no longer available, but the good news is that the service lives on under a new name. When Intuit acquired Credit Karma in 2020, they were required by antitrust regulators to divest the tax filing portion of the business, which was then purchased by Block (formerly Square). The service is now called Cash App Taxes and you can access it directly at cash.app/taxes. It's essentially the exact same platform you've been using for the past 6 years - same interface, same question flow, same comprehensive tax support - just with new branding. Most importantly, it remains completely free for both federal and state returns with no income restrictions. You don't need to download the Cash App mobile application or link any payment methods. You can use it entirely through their website just like you did with Credit Karma Tax. I used it for my 2024 return and the experience was virtually identical to what I was accustomed to with Credit Karma. The service handles all the same tax situations - W-2s, 1099s, investment income, business expenses, rental properties, and more. For your simple return, it should work perfectly and save you from having to pay TurboTax's $89+ fees. If for any reason Cash App Taxes doesn't meet your needs, other solid free alternatives include FreeTaxUSA (free federal, $15 state) and the IRS Free File program if your income qualifies. But I'm confident Cash App Taxes will be exactly what you're looking for!

Great question about where to start! Based on everything shared in this thread, I'd recommend these first three steps before considering paid services: 1. **Check your old tax returns first** - This is free and often reveals crucial information. Look for Schedule B (dividends) and any previous Schedule D forms that might show partial sales of the same stock. Even dividend income from Disney proves you owned the stock during specific tax years, which helps establish a timeline. 2. **Contact Disney's investor relations directly** - Since you mentioned it's Disney stock, call their investor relations department and ask about historical corporate actions (stock splits, spin-offs, etc.) during your estimated ownership period. Disney has had several stock splits that could help you work backwards to determine your original purchase details. 3. **Request "cost basis election records" from all three brokers** - Don't just ask for regular statements. Specifically request "legacy acquisition data" and "cost basis election records" from each broker's compliance department. Sometimes this data exists in archived systems even when regular customer service says it doesn't. These three steps cost nothing but time and often uncover information that eliminates the need for expensive specialists. Only after exhausting these free options would I move on to forensic accountants or reconstruction services. Since it's inherited stock, also check if you have any of your grandmother's old financial documents - sometimes beneficiaries don't realize they need to look beyond just the inheritance paperwork itself. Good luck with your search!

I've been lurking on this thread for a while because I'm dealing with a similar situation with some old GE stock, and I just wanted to say how incredibly helpful everyone's experiences have been. The amount of practical, actionable advice here is amazing. One thing I wanted to add that I haven't seen mentioned yet: if you ever moved and filed a change of address with USPS, sometimes old brokerage statements get forwarded to mail recovery services. I actually found some ancient E*TRADE confirmations in a box of mail that had been forwarded to me years ago when I moved apartments. It was buried under a pile of other forwarded junk mail, but those confirmations had the exact purchase dates and costs I needed. Also, for anyone dealing with inherited stock like Margot, don't forget that you might be eligible for a "stepped-up basis" at the date of inheritance rather than the original purchase price. This could actually work in your favor tax-wise. You'd need to establish the fair market value on the date your grandmother passed away, which might be easier to document than finding her original purchase records. The persistence everyone is showing here is really inspiring. I was ready to give up and accept zero basis, but reading all these success stories has motivated me to keep digging. Thanks to this community for turning what felt like an impossible situation into a manageable challenge with multiple potential solutions!

Honestly, with just a single rental unit in a duplex, TurboTax should be fine. I've used it for 5 years with my triplex (live in one, rent two). Just make sure you keep good records of your expenses and know which ones need to be split between personal and rental use. The only time I'd pay for a professional is if you have multiple properties or complicated situations like 1031 exchanges.

I switched from TurboTax to FreeTaxUSA two years ago for my duplex taxes and it's been great. Like others mentioned, it handles Schedule E rental income/expenses just fine and costs way less. The interface isn't as polished as TurboTax but it gets the job done. One thing I learned the hard way - make sure you're tracking ALL your expenses throughout the year, not just at tax time. I use a simple spreadsheet with categories like repairs, utilities, insurance, etc. Also, don't forget about depreciation on appliances and improvements you make to the rental side. TurboTax was actually better at prompting me for these details, so with FreeTaxUSA I had to be more proactive about remembering everything. The $700 savings you'd get by doing it yourself is definitely worth it for a simple duplex situation, especially if you're organized with your record keeping.