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If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
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  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

I've been using Cash App Taxes for two years now and overall it's been solid for my situation. The biggest advantage is obviously that it's completely free - no hidden fees or upsells like you get with other services. The interface is pretty intuitive and it imported my W-2 and 1099 info without issues. One thing to consider is the customer support limitation that others mentioned. Last year I had a question about reporting some freelance income and it took forever to get help. The FAQ section covers basics but if you run into anything unusual, you're pretty much on your own. Also worth noting - if you're used to TurboTax's extensive error checking and advice features, Cash App is more bare-bones. It'll catch obvious mistakes but doesn't provide the same level of guidance on tax optimization strategies. For straightforward returns though, it gets the job done and saves you a good chunk of money.

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Thanks for sharing your experience! I'm in a similar boat coming from TurboTax and looking to save on fees. Quick question - when you mention the error checking is more basic, did you ever run into any issues where Cash App missed something that caused problems with the IRS later? I'm a bit nervous about switching from a more robust system, but the cost savings are really appealing.

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Sophia Russo

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I've been using Cash App Taxes for the past year after switching from TurboTax, and honestly it's been a game changer for my wallet. The free filing for both federal and state saved me about $120 compared to what I was paying before. The interface is surprisingly smooth - it walks you through everything step by step just like the paid services. I was able to handle my W-2, some 1099-MISC income from side work, and student loan interest deduction without any issues. The refund hit my account in about 10 days which was faster than I expected. My only real complaint is the limited help when you get stuck. I had a question about reporting some cryptocurrency transactions and basically had to figure it out myself since their support resources are pretty thin. If you have a complex tax situation, you might want to stick with a paid service for the extra guidance. But for most people with straightforward taxes, Cash App Taxes does exactly what you need it to do without the hefty fees. Definitely worth trying if you're looking to save money on tax prep.

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Dylan Mitchell

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That's really helpful to hear about your experience! The $120 savings definitely catches my attention. I'm curious about the crypto transaction issue you mentioned - were you eventually able to figure out how to report it correctly through Cash App? I have some basic crypto trades from this year and want to make sure I don't mess anything up. Also, did you feel confident that everything was filed accurately even without the extensive review features that TurboTax has?

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Using straight line depreciation for a business vehicle then converting to personal use - tax implications?

I'm thinking about buying a used BMW M5 for about $82,000 and using it 100% for business purposes initially, then eventually converting it to personal use. I was planning to use straight line depreciation over 5 years. If I bought it on January 1st, that would mean approximately $16,400 in depreciation each year. I have a few questions about the tax implications: 1. What happens if I convert the car to personal use after 2 years of business use? Is there any depreciation recapture triggered at that point? I thought depreciation recapture only applies with Section 179 depreciation. If I then drive it personally for another 5 years and sell it for $13,500, is that when depreciation gets recaptured? 2. If I use the BMW strictly for business for the full 5 years (fully depreciated) and then convert to personal use, what happens if I later sell it for $27,000? Would I pay tax on the entire $27,000? What if I sold it to my sister for $6,800 - would I only pay tax on that amount or does the IRS use fair market value regardless? 3. If the car was fully depreciated and then got totaled in an accident, and insurance paid me $27,000, would that amount be taxable too? I want to understand all the nuances to make sure I'm being both strategic and compliant with tax regulations. Can anyone point me to specific IRS rules about whether fair market value is used even when selling for less than FMV? Thanks for any help you can provide!

Keisha Brown

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I'm just curious - has anyone tried using something other than straight-line depreciation for vehicles? Maybe accelerated depreciation methods or even Section 179? I know Section 179 has those luxury auto limits, but wondering if there's any advantage to front-loading the depreciation if you know you'll convert to personal use later?

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I tried Section 179 for a business vehicle a few years ago, and it bit me hard when I converted it to personal use early. Had to recapture a ton of depreciation in a single year, which pushed me into a higher tax bracket. If you're pretty sure you'll convert to personal use within a few years, straight-line is usually safer from a tax planning perspective. Accelerated methods front-load your deductions but increase your recapture exposure.

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Great question about BMW M5 depreciation! One thing to consider that hasn't been fully addressed is the luxury auto depreciation limits under IRC Section 280F. For 2024, the first-year limit is $12,200 (or $20,200 with bonus depreciation), then $19,500, $11,700, and $6,960 for subsequent years. Since you're looking at an $82,000 BMW, these limits will significantly impact your depreciation schedule regardless of whether you use straight-line or accelerated methods. You won't actually be able to take $16,400 per year - you'll be limited to much lower amounts. This actually works in your favor for conversion planning! The luxury limits reduce your depreciation recapture exposure when you eventually convert to personal use. Just make sure to track your business use percentage carefully with a mileage log - the IRS is particularly strict about vehicle documentation. Also, consider the timing of your conversion. If you convert mid-year, you'll need to prorate the depreciation and carefully document the exact conversion date and vehicle condition. The Section 280F limits make the math more complex but generally reduce your overall tax risk.

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Ethan Moore

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This is incredibly helpful information about the luxury auto limits! I had no idea Section 280F would cap my depreciation so significantly. So if I understand correctly, even though the car costs $82,000, I'd only be able to depreciate about $12,200 the first year instead of the $16,400 I calculated using straight-line over 5 years? Does this mean it would actually take much longer than 5 years to fully depreciate the vehicle for business purposes? And would these same limits apply if I had chosen Section 179 or bonus depreciation instead of straight-line? I'm also wondering - when you mention tracking business use percentage with a mileage log, does that mean I need to maintain detailed records even if I'm using the vehicle 100% for business initially? What specific documentation does the IRS typically look for during audits?

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Something nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you're tracking ALL your expenses for these gig jobs! Even if you're under the self-employment tax threshold, you can still deduct business expenses against that income. I do food delivery part time and deduct: - Mileage (this is the big one) - Portion of phone bill - Hot bags/delivery equipment - Phone mount for car - Portion of car insurance Don't leave money on the table by just reporting the income without the expenses!

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Ian Armstrong

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Can you really deduct part of your phone bill and car insurance? I've been doing DoorDash for 2 years and never knew this. How do you calculate what percentage to deduct?

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Yes, you can absolutely deduct portions of both! For your phone bill, you calculate the percentage of time you use your phone for business purposes. If you're actively doing deliveries about 20% of the time you use your phone, you can deduct 20% of your monthly phone bill. For car insurance, it's trickier but doable. You'd need to track your business miles vs. total miles driven for the year, then apply that percentage to your insurance premiums. So if 30% of your driving was for delivery work, you could potentially deduct 30% of your car insurance. Just make sure you keep good records and can justify your percentages if the IRS ever asks. The key is being reasonable and having documentation to back up your calculations.

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Just wanted to add my experience as someone who's been doing multiple gig apps for 3 years now. You're absolutely right to be concerned about reporting everything correctly! A few quick tips that might help: - Keep a simple spreadsheet throughout the year tracking income from each app, even the small amounts - Take screenshots of your earnings summaries in each app before the year ends (sometimes they purge old data) - Don't forget you can also deduct things like hand sanitizer, masks, and cleaning supplies you buy specifically for delivery work One thing I learned the hard way - even though Instacart didn't send you a 1099-NEC, they still reported your earnings to the IRS if you made over $600 total across ALL their services (including tips). So they might have your income on file even without sending you paperwork. The good news is that reporting gig income gets way easier after your first year once you know what to expect. Just be thorough this first time and you'll be set up for success going forward!

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NeonNova

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This is really helpful advice! I had no idea about the screenshot tip - that's smart thinking ahead. Quick question though - you mentioned Instacart might still report earnings over $600 total including tips. Does that mean if I made $355 in delivery payments but got like $300 in tips through the app, they would have reported the full $655 to the IRS even though I didn't get a 1099? Also, do you happen to know if there's a difference in how cash tips vs app tips get reported? Sometimes customers tip cash and I'm wondering if I need to track those separately.

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LunarLegend

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Has anyone here actually compared the paperwork requirements between SEP-IRA and Solo 401(k) for an S-Corp? I keep hearing Solo 401(k) is better for contribution limits but worried about extra compliance headaches.

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Malik Jackson

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I've managed both for my one-person S-Corp. SEP-IRA is definitely simpler - basically just one form to establish and annual contributions are straightforward. A Solo 401(k) requires more paperwork upfront (plan documents, etc.) and after your plan assets exceed $250k, you have to file Form 5500-EZ annually which is a pain. That said, I still switched to Solo 401(k) because the much higher contribution limits were worth the extra hassle in my case. I also liked having loan provisions and Roth options with the Solo 401(k). Most major brokerages now offer prototype Solo 401(k) plans that simplify the setup process.

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Leslie Parker

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Great question about S-Corp retirement contributions! I went through this exact same analysis last year with my single-member S-Corp. Here's what I learned that might help: You're absolutely right that you can contribute much more than 10%. With your $85,000 salary, you could max out at about $21,250 with the SEP-IRA (25% of compensation). However, I'd strongly recommend looking into a Solo 401(k) instead - it would let you contribute around $44,250 total ($23,000 employee deferral + ~$21,250 employer contribution). One thing to consider: since you're generating $120K in profits but only taking $85K salary, you might want to evaluate if increasing your salary slightly could boost your retirement contributions. Yes, you'll pay more payroll taxes, but the additional tax-deferred savings often outweigh the extra FICA costs. Also, at 42, you're actually in a good position to catch up! You'll get catch-up contributions starting at 50 (additional $7,500 for 401k), and with your strong business income, you have time to build substantial retirement savings. The key is making sure your salary remains "reasonable compensation" for your industry. Since you mentioned graphic design, $85K sounds reasonable, but you might have room to optimize the salary/distribution split for maximum retirement contributions.

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Emma Olsen

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This is really helpful, thank you! I'm curious about the salary optimization part you mentioned. When you say "evaluate if increasing your salary slightly could boost retirement contributions," how do you calculate the break-even point? For example, if I increased my salary from $85K to $95K, I'd pay an extra $1,530 in FICA taxes (15.3% on the additional $10K). But I could then contribute an extra $2,500 to retirement (25% of the additional $10K). At my tax bracket, that $2,500 deduction would save me about $925 in income taxes. So net effect would be paying $605 more in taxes ($1,530 - $925) to put away $2,500 more for retirement. Is that the right way to think about it? And how do you make sure the higher salary still passes the "reasonable compensation" test?

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This is the transcripts

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Tom Maxon

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Code 150 - Tax Return Filed (Date: 08-12-2024; Amount: $1,127.00): This entry indicates that you filed and processed your tax return with a tax amount due of $1,127.00. Code 810 - Refund Freeze (Date: 02-08-2024; Amount: $0.00): This indicates that a freeze has been placed on any refund that may be due to you. This freeze could be due to various reasons such as review for accuracy, verification of information, or other compliance checks. The amount next to this code is typically $0.00 as it represents a status rather than a financial transaction. Code 766 - Credit to Your Account (Date: 04-15-2024; Amount: -$46,880.00): This is a substantial credit applied to your account. This could include withholding from wages, estimated tax payments, or other credits. The negative value indicates it's a credit to you. Code 768 - Earned Income Credit (Date: 04-15-2024; Amount: -$568.00): This shows the amount of Earned Income Credit (EIC) that was applied to your account. This credit is given to you if you are eligible and have low to moderate income from work. It is a refundable credit, meaning it can reduce the tax you owe and potentially increase your refund. Analysis and Next Steps The combination of credits listed under codes 766 and 768 significantly exceeds the tax assessed under code 150. However, the presence of the refund freeze (code 810) means that despite these credits, the IRS is not currently processing a refund for you. Since the freeze was initiated before the credits were applied, there might have been anticipation of issues with your tax return or the credits themselves that required additional scrutiny. Given the refund freeze and the lack of a code 846 (which would indicate a refund being issued), you should anticipate that the IRS may need more information or time to review the accuracy of your return or the eligibility for credits claimed. If you have not received any communication from the IRS explaining the refund freeze, it would be advisable for you to initiate contact to clarify the reasons for the hold and to understand if any additional steps are required from your side to resolve the issue. I made a video on how to bypass the usual IRS phone menu and long wait times here: https://youtu.be/UiAegRQ2Is8

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Sophia Clark

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@Crystal Singletary I completely understand your anxiety with such a large refund amount! The verification process for $47k+ is definitely more intensive than usual, but completing that call was the biggest hurdle. Since you already spoke with them and got the 9-week timeline, you re'officially in their processing queue now. That timeframe starts from your verification call date, not your original filing. I d'recommend checking your transcript every Friday when they typically update - once that 810 code disappears you should see an 846 refund code appear pretty quickly. The wait is tough but you ve'done everything right. That s'an incredible refund coming your way!

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Sophie Duck

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@Crystal Singletary I know this wait must feel endless with that amount! I went through verification for a much smaller refund last year and the anxiety was real. The good news is you ve'completed the hardest part - that verification call. With $47k+, they re'definitely being extra thorough but that 9-week timeline they gave you is usually pretty accurate. Just remember it counts from your verification call date, not when you originally filed. I d'join the Friday transcript checking routine everyone mentioned - that s'when updates typically happen. Once that 810 code disappears, you should see an 846 refund code appear within days. The waiting is brutal but you re'in their system now. Stay strong! πŸ’ͺ

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