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I just wanted to add another perspective since I've helped several international students through this exact situation. The most important thing to remember is that your tax filing status (resident vs nonresident alien) is determined by IRS rules, not by what forms your university issues you. Since you've been in the US since 2018 and meet the substantial presence test, you're absolutely correct to file as a resident alien using Form 1040. The 1042S is essentially just a reporting document showing income and withholding - think of it like a W-2 that was issued incorrectly. One tip that might help: when you enter the fellowship income in FreeTaxUSA, you can add a brief description like "Fellowship income reported on 1042S" so it's clear where the number came from. This can help if there are any questions later. Also, don't forget that you might be eligible for education credits (American Opportunity Credit or Lifetime Learning Credit) based on your qualified tuition payments, which could further increase your refund. Many students in your situation miss out on these credits because they get overwhelmed dealing with the 1042S issue. The bottom line is that you should get back most of that incorrectly withheld money - universities typically withhold at 30% for nonresidents when you should probably be paying closer to 12-22% as a resident, depending on your total income.
This is exactly the guidance I needed! I'm in my third year in the US and definitely meet the substantial presence test, but my university's international office has been giving me conflicting advice about my tax status. It's reassuring to know that the IRS rules determine my status, not what forms the university issues. The education credits tip is really valuable - I hadn't even considered that I might be eligible for those on top of getting back the incorrectly withheld taxes. Between the excess withholding refund and potential education credits, this could make a significant difference in my tax situation. One follow-up question: when you mention the 12-22% range for residents versus the 30% nonresident withholding, is that just federal taxes or does that include state taxes too? I'm trying to estimate how much I should expect back from this correction.
The 12-22% range I mentioned is just for federal income taxes - state taxes would be separate and depend on which state you're in. Some states don't tax fellowship income at all, while others treat it the same as regular income. The 30% withholding on your 1042S was likely only federal withholding too (check Box 7 on your form), so your refund calculation should focus on the federal portion. If your university also withheld state taxes incorrectly, that would show up separately on your 1042S and you'd handle that on your state return. For estimating your refund, take the amount in Box 7 of your 1042S and subtract what you would actually owe in federal taxes on that fellowship income based on your total income and tax bracket. The difference is roughly what you should get back, plus any education credits you qualify for. Since you're in your third year and clearly established as a resident, you should definitely be taking advantage of education credits if you haven't been claiming them. The American Opportunity Credit alone can be worth up to $2,500 per year for the first four years of undergraduate study.
I went through this exact situation two years ago when my university incorrectly classified me as a nonresident and issued a 1042S for my research stipend. Here's what worked for me: First, you're absolutely right to file Form 1040 as a resident alien - your tax status is determined by IRS rules (substantial presence test), not what forms your university issues. In FreeTaxUSA, I reported the fellowship income from Box 2 of the 1042S as "Other Income" on Schedule 1, Line 8i. I wrote "Fellowship income per 1042S" in the description field. For the withholding from Box 7, I entered it under "Other Federal Income Tax Withheld" in the payments section. The key thing that helped me was being very clear in the software that I was filing as a resident - I made sure to answer "No" to all questions about being a nonresident alien, even though I had a 1042S form. I was able to e-file successfully and got my refund in about 3 weeks. The IRS didn't question the mixed forms at all. I ended up getting back about $1,800 of the $2,200 they had incorrectly withheld at the 30% nonresident rate. Also, don't forget to check if you're eligible for education credits based on your tuition payments - that was an additional $2,000 credit I almost missed! Keep your documentation from the university acknowledging their error, but honestly, the IRS sees this mistake from universities pretty regularly and handles it smoothly.
This is super helpful, Sebastian! I'm dealing with almost the exact same situation - my university issued me a 1042S for my teaching assistantship even though I've been a resident for tax purposes for over two years now. Quick question about the e-filing process - did you have to do anything special when the system asked about foreign income or international status? I'm worried that having a 1042S might automatically trigger the software to think I should be filing as a nonresident, and I don't want to mess this up. Also, when you mention getting back $1,800 of the $2,200 withheld, was the remaining $400 what you actually owed in taxes on that income at resident rates? I'm trying to estimate what I should expect - my 1042S shows about $3,200 in withholding on $12,000 of stipend income.
mine came through last week! took 97 days total. check your transcripts daily, thats how i knew it was coming
I was cycle 20241505 - they processed it right after the 846 code showed up on my transcript. @Dmitri keep checking yours, things can move fast once they start processing!
Been through this exact same situation last year. Got the 60-day letter in March, didn't see my refund until mid-July (about 110 days total). The waiting is brutal but most people do eventually get their money. The key is staying on top of your transcript - once you see the 846 code appear, your refund usually hits within a week. Don't give up hope!
@Luca honestly just had to wait it out - called a few times but they kept saying the same thing. The transcript was really the only way to track progress. Once I saw movement there I knew it was finally happening. Hang in there @Omar, you're getting close to that timeframe where things usually start moving!
@Luca thanks for the timeline breakdown! Really helpful to know what to expect. I'm at day 95 and starting to panic but your story gives me hope. Did your transcript show any specific codes before the 846 that indicated movement?
your friend is buggin if he thinks this will work lmaoo. my cousin tried sum similar claiming his gf brother who was locked up. he got the money initially but then boom 6 months later irs sent a letter saying he was getting audited. had to pay everything back plus like $1500 in penalties. tell your boy not to mess with the irs man they don't play around!!
Did your cousin face any other consequences besides paying back the money and penalties? That's exactly what I'm worried about - my coworker getting in serious trouble beyond just financial issues.
nah he just had to pay back everything plus the penalty. but he was lucky cause they decided it was a "mistake" not deliberate fraud. if they think your friend is intentionally lying that could be way worse. i heard they can pursue criminal charges for tax fraud but usually only for really big money or repeat offenders. still wouldn't risk it tho. irs has gotten way more aggressive with audits lately and they definitely check dependent claims extra careful. plus the stress of dealing with them for months ain't worth any refund.
Your coworker is absolutely setting himself up for disaster. I've seen this exact scenario play out multiple times, and it never ends well. The IRS has sophisticated cross-referencing systems that will catch this - they receive data from correctional facilities and will flag returns claiming incarcerated individuals as dependents. Even if the refund gets processed initially (which sometimes happens), the IRS will eventually audit and demand repayment with penalties and interest. The "support test" is crystal clear - when someone is incarcerated, the government (not your friend) is providing their housing, food, medical care, and other basic needs. There's no way your coworker can legitimately claim he's providing more than half of this person's support. The fact that H&R Block's software shows a refund means nothing - tax software only processes the information entered, it can't verify if that information is truthful. Your friend is essentially committing tax fraud, and the IRS takes this very seriously. The $4,000 refund isn't worth the audit, penalties, potential criminal charges, and years of dealing with the IRS. Show him these responses and maybe he'll reconsider before he ruins his financial future over what amounts to theft from the government.
This is really helpful context. I'm wondering though - how quickly does the IRS usually catch these types of fraudulent dependent claims? Like, would my coworker potentially get the refund first and then face consequences later, or do their systems flag it before any money gets sent out? I'm trying to understand the timeline so I can explain to him exactly what he's risking and when the trouble would start.
Great question and really helpful discussion here! I've been dealing with a similar situation - I've been doing estate cleanouts for elderly neighbors and selling items at community sales for the past couple years. Most of what I sell are genuinely personal household items at a loss, but occasionally I'll find something valuable that sells for more than expected. What I've learned from my own research and talking to a tax preparer is that the IRS really does look at the intent and frequency. If you're genuinely decluttering personal belongings and selling them for less than you paid, that's not taxable income. The key is being able to demonstrate this if questioned - keeping some basic records of what you sold and roughly what you originally paid helps a lot. For the cash deposits, I was nervous about this too but ended up just depositing everything normally. The $10k reporting threshold is about anti-money laundering, not taxes, and there's nothing suspicious about depositing legitimate garage sale proceeds. Just don't try to structure it into smaller amounts - that actually looks more suspicious than depositing it all at once. The most important thing is being honest about the nature of your sales. If it's truly personal property sold at a loss, you should be totally fine!
This is really reassuring to hear from someone who's actually been through the process! Your point about intent and frequency being key factors makes a lot of sense - the IRS isn't trying to catch people who are legitimately just cleaning house. I'm curious about your estate cleanout work though - do you handle the tax implications differently when you're selling items that belonged to other people versus your own personal belongings? It seems like that might fall into a different category than regular garage sales, especially if you're being compensated for the service. Also, when you mention keeping "basic records," what does that look like in practice? Are you talking about detailed receipts or just rough notes about what sold and approximate original values? I've been keeping a simple notebook with dates and rough amounts, but I'm wondering if that's sufficient or if I should be more detailed. Thanks for sharing your experience with the cash deposits too - it's really helpful to hear from someone who actually went through with it instead of just worrying about it like I've been doing!
Great questions! For the estate cleanout work, I do handle it differently tax-wise. When I'm selling items that belonged to others (even with their permission to keep proceeds), that's typically considered compensation for services rather than personal property sales. I report that as "other income" since I'm essentially being paid for my time and effort in cleaning, organizing, and selling. For record-keeping, your simple notebook approach sounds perfect! I keep similar basic records - date of sale, general description of items, rough original cost or estimated value, and sale amount. Nothing fancy, just enough to show good faith compliance if questions ever come up. The IRS isn't expecting detailed appraisals for garage sale items - they just want to see you made reasonable efforts to track things. One tip I learned: for inherited or gifted items where you don't know the original cost, I write down my best estimate of fair market value when I received them. This helps establish the stepped-up basis we discussed earlier in the thread. Even rough estimates based on online research or comparable items are usually sufficient for these smaller amounts. The key is consistency and honesty rather than perfection. Your notebook system shows you're making good faith efforts to track everything properly!
This has been such an incredibly informative thread! As someone who's been hesitant to deposit about $1,500 from garage sales over the past couple years, reading everyone's experiences has really helped clarify things for me. What I'm taking away is that the IRS has pretty reasonable guidelines once you understand them - personal items sold at a loss aren't taxable, inherited items get stepped-up basis, and occasional profitable sales might need reporting but aren't a big deal for small amounts. The key seems to be basic record-keeping and not overthinking the deposit process. I've been keeping a simple log of what I sold and rough original costs, which sounds like it aligns with what others have found sufficient. My situation is straightforward - just decluttering my own household items, mostly furniture and clothes I paid way more for originally. Thanks to everyone who shared their research and actual experiences rather than just speculation. It's really helpful to hear from people who've actually gone through the deposit process and tax reporting without issues. I think I'm finally ready to stop keeping cash in a shoebox and just handle this normally!
I'm so glad this thread helped you feel more confident about depositing your money! Your situation sounds exactly like mine was a few months ago - sitting on legitimate garage sale cash and overthinking the whole process. What really resonates with me is your point about the IRS having "reasonable guidelines once you understand them." That's been my biggest takeaway too. The rules aren't designed to trap people who are just decluttering their homes - they're meant to catch actual unreported business income. Your record-keeping approach with the simple log sounds perfect for your straightforward situation. Since you're dealing with your own household items sold at a loss, you're in the clearest category possible from a tax perspective. I love that you're finally ready to "stop keeping cash in a shoebox" - that made me laugh because I literally had mine in a coffee can! There's something so liberating about just handling your money normally instead of living in this weird cash-only anxiety bubble. Thanks for sharing your takeaways from the thread - it's encouraging to see how this discussion has helped multiple people feel more confident about managing their garage sale proceeds properly!
Amina Diallo
I completely understand your confusion Dylan! As a new Massachusetts resident myself, I went through this exact same bewilderment with my first excise tax bill. You're absolutely right - excise tax is charged for the current year (2025), not the previous year. Since you bought your car in March 2025, you should only be paying for March through December 2025 (10 months of ownership). Massachusetts has some specific quirks in how they calculate this. They use $25 per $1,000 of assessed value, and for brand new 2025 models, they typically assess at 90% of the MSRP (not what you actually paid). So if your car had an MSRP of $30,000, you'd be looking at about $675 for a full year, prorated to roughly $560 for your 10 months of ownership. Before paying, I'd definitely recommend calling your local tax assessor's office to verify: - They have your correct March 2025 purchase date - The vehicle specs and trim level are accurate (they sometimes get this wrong) - You're only being charged for the months you actually owned the car Don't stress - this confusion is incredibly common for first-time car owners in MA! The system has some unique aspects that aren't intuitive. Once you get through this first year, future bills will make much more sense.
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Jackie Martinez
ā¢This is such a great explanation of the Massachusetts system! I'm a newcomer to vehicle taxes in general and was feeling pretty overwhelmed by my first bill. Your breakdown of the $25 per $1,000 rate and the 90% MSRP assessment really clarifies why these amounts can seem so high compared to what you actually paid for the car. I especially appreciate you mentioning that they sometimes get the vehicle specs wrong - I hadn't thought to check that my trim level was listed correctly. That could definitely make a difference in the final amount. The proration aspect makes so much sense now too - 10 months of ownership rather than being charged for the full year. Thanks for emphasizing that this confusion is totally normal! It makes me feel much better about not understanding this system right away. I'm definitely going to call and verify all my details before paying.
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Nia Watson
I went through this exact same confusion when I bought my first car in Massachusetts! You're absolutely right that excise tax is charged for the current year (2025), not the previous year. Since you bought your car in March, you should only be paying for the portion of 2025 that you'll actually own it. Massachusetts calculates excise tax at $25 per $1,000 of assessed value. For a brand new 2025 model, they typically assess at 90% of MSRP, not what you actually paid. So if your car's MSRP was $30,000, you'd be looking at about $675 for a full year, but since you bought in March, you should only pay for March through December (10 months) - roughly $560. I'd recommend calling your local tax assessor's office to verify they have your correct purchase date and vehicle specifications. Sometimes they get the trim level wrong or use an incorrect date, which can inflate your bill. The phone number should be on your tax bill. Don't worry - this kind of confusion is super common for first-time car owners! The MA excise tax system has some quirks that aren't immediately obvious. Once you understand how they calculate it, future years will make much more sense. Just make sure to call before your due date if anything looks off!
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