Quick question for anyone who knows - does the vehicle have to be new to qualify for deductions, or can it be used? Looking at a 3-year old SUV that would be perfect for my client visits.

As someone who works in tax preparation, I want to emphasize the importance of keeping meticulous records during your 1099 contractor period. Since you're receiving mileage reimbursements that exceed the IRS standard rate, you'll need to report the excess as taxable income. Here's what I'd recommend: Start tracking ALL your vehicle expenses immediately - gas, maintenance, insurance, registration fees, etc. Also keep a detailed mileage log separating business vs personal use. This gives you the data to calculate both methods (standard mileage vs actual expenses) and choose whichever saves you more money. One thing people often miss: when you transition to W-2 employee status mid-year, your tax situation changes completely. Employee business expenses are generally no longer deductible, so make sure you're maximizing deductions during your contractor months. Given the complexity of your situation with the mid-year status change and above-standard reimbursement rates, I'd strongly suggest consulting with a tax professional before making any major vehicle purchase decisions. The wrong choice could cost you thousands in missed deductions or unexpected tax liability.

I just ignored a $8.50 use tax I owed last year and nothing happened lol. The state has bigger tax cheats to go after than someone who didn't pay a few bucks on an online purchase. But technically yes you're supposed to pay it.

For your specific situation with the $5.40, here's my practical advice: Yes, technically you're required to pay use tax, but realistically the enforcement risk for such a small amount is essentially zero. However, I'd recommend getting into good habits now. Most states let you report use tax on your annual income tax return - there's usually a line where you can enter the total amount of use tax owed for the year. You can either track individual purchases or use your state's estimation table based on income (much easier). Since you're just starting to deal with this, I'd suggest setting up a simple system: keep a running tally of untaxed online purchases throughout the year, then report the total when you file your state taxes. The deadline is typically the same as your income tax filing deadline. Don't stress too much about this particular $5.40 purchase, but use it as a learning experience for bigger purchases in the future. Better to understand the system now than be caught off guard with a larger amount later!

This thread has been so educational! I'm bookmarking it for future reference. The way everyone explained the 898 code and those confusing IRS processing dates really helped demystify what looks like complete gibberish on these transcripts. It's wild that "we checked for debts and found none, so you get your full refund" gets translated into cryptic codes that make everyone panic. The IRS could save so much confusion by just using plain English! But thanks to this amazing community, at least we can help each other decode their ancient hieroglyphics 😂 For anyone else stumbling across this thread with similar transcript confusion - this is definitely the place to get answers!

I'm so glad this thread has been helpful for everyone! As someone who's also struggled with understanding IRS transcripts, it's really reassuring to see how this community comes together to explain these confusing codes. The 898 code definitely seems to be a common source of panic - I think we've all had that moment of seeing "debt" mentioned and immediately assuming the worst! But it's actually pretty clever of the IRS to automatically check for offsets, even if their way of displaying it is unnecessarily cryptic. What strikes me most about this whole discussion is how many people have dealt with the exact same confusion. It really shows that the IRS needs to seriously rethink how they present this information to taxpayers. Instead of codes that require a decoder ring, they could just say something simple like "Debt offset check: $0 - Full refund issued" Thanks to everyone who took the time to explain these codes so thoroughly. This thread is going to help so many people who find themselves staring at their transcripts wondering if they're reading alien technology! 😊

One thing nobody mentioned - make sure the information on your 1095-C is actually correct! My employer had me listed with coverage for months I wasn't employed there and it caused a huge headache. Check the coverage months in Part II to make sure they match when you actually had the insurance.

Just to add another perspective - if you're someone who frequently switches between different health insurance plans or has gaps in coverage, the 1095-C becomes more important for your records. Even though TurboTax doesn't ask for it directly, having this form helps you track your coverage timeline, especially if you need to reconcile any Premium Tax Credits you received through the marketplace. I learned this the hard way when I had overlapping employer coverage and marketplace coverage for a few months. The 1095-C helped me sort out which months I was covered by what plan when the IRS had questions later.

Has anyone checked if there might be a simple data entry error? I once had a $900 difference just because I entered a number wrong in the federal withholding box. Double-check the withholding amounts on both W2s and make sure they're entered exactly right in TaxAct.

This is a really frustrating situation but unfortunately pretty common! I work as a tax preparer and see this happen a lot when people try to do their own taxes after getting a professional estimate. A few things that could explain the $1,400+ difference: 1. **Multiple job withholding calculation**: With two W-2s from different parts of the year, the withholding tables at each job might not have accounted for your total annual income. This can result in under-withholding that reduces your refund, but tax software sometimes miscalculates this. 2. **State tax considerations**: Make sure you're looking at the same thing - federal refund vs. total refund including state. Sometimes people compare apples to oranges here. 3. **Filing status**: Even small differences in how filing status is determined can make a huge impact on your refund amount. My advice: Ask your tax preparer for a detailed breakdown of exactly what deductions and credits she's claiming. She should be able to show you line by line what's creating the difference. If everything looks legitimate, it might be worth paying her fee to get the larger refund. But if you can't get a clear explanation of where that extra $1,400 is coming from, I'd be cautious about proceeding.