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Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to sell an investment property I've owned for about 6 years and I'm thinking about doing a 1031 exchange to avoid capital gains. The property value has increased quite a bit (purchased at $175K and now worth around $310K). I'm a bit confused about the timing requirements for a 1031 exchange. From what I understand, there's a 45-day identification period and then a 180-day completion window, but I'm not sure when these periods actually start. Do they both start when I sell my property? Also, what happens if I identify a replacement property but the deal falls through? Can I still identify another property, or am I just out of luck at that point? Really appreciate any insights from those who've been through this process before!
So I just got my tax forms for the year and noticed I have two different 1099-R forms for my Roth IRA. One has code H in box 7 and the other doesn't have any code there. I'm super confused about what this means and if I need to report both on my taxes. I've had this Roth for about 5 years now and never seen this happen before. Last year I did transfer some money between Roth accounts (about $12,000) when I switched financial institutions. Could that be why? I also took out about $8,500 for a first-time home purchase which I thought was penalty-free since it's a qualified distribution. Do I need to report both 1099-Rs? And why would one have code H and the other nothing? Really don't want to mess this up and trigger some IRS audit nightmare. Anyone dealt with this before?
I'm dealing with the exact same situation right now. When I entered both 1099-Rs in FreeTaxUSA, it seemed to handle them correctly. The one with code H didn't add anything to my taxable income, but it still showed up in the tax forms. Has anyone used H&R Block software for this situation? Wondering if different tax programs handle these Roth distribution codes differently.
I used H&R Block last year for a similar situation. It worked fine but asked way more questions than necessary about my Roth distributions. Wanted to know details about when I opened the account, how much were contributions vs earnings, etc. Ended up calculating everything correctly, but took longer than it should have.
I went through something very similar last year and can confirm what others have said - you absolutely need to report both 1099-Rs even though one might be completely non-taxable. The code H form for your $12,000 transfer is straightforward - that's a direct rollover between Roth IRAs which isn't taxable but must still be reported. The form without a distribution code for your $8,500 home purchase withdrawal is also likely non-taxable since first-time home buyer distributions from Roth IRAs are penalty-free (though there are some nuances about contributions vs. earnings). One thing to double-check: make sure the amounts on your 1099-Rs match what you actually received. I had an issue where my old broker issued a 1099-R for the gross amount transferred, but my new broker also issued one, creating a discrepancy I had to sort out. Most tax software will handle these correctly if you enter them exactly as shown on the forms, including all the codes. The key is being accurate with the distribution codes in Box 7 - that's what tells the IRS (and your tax software) how to treat each distribution.
Hi guys! What number do I call to speak to someone to see what's going on with my amended return.. and what info do I need to have ready? Filed my 1040-X back in Jan and the "Where's My Amended Return" tool still shows nothing. Pretty sure I have the right to know what's happening with MY money at this point. Thx in advance!
I went through this exact situation last year! Filed my 1040X in December and didn't see any movement until May. Here's what worked for me: I called 1-800-829-1040 early Tuesday morning (7:15 AM ET) and got through in about 45 minutes. The key is having EVERYTHING ready - your SSN, both your original and amended returns, your AGI from both, and your mailing address exactly as it appears on the return. The rep was able to tell me my amendment was in "error resolution" because of a small discrepancy in how I reported some 1099 income. Once they explained what was needed, I was able to mail in additional documentation and it processed within 3 weeks. Pro tip: Ask the rep to put notes on your account about what was discussed - this helps if you need to call back. Also, if it's been more than 20 weeks since you filed, definitely mention that upfront as it can sometimes trigger a case review. Good luck!
I went through this exact same frustration last year! Filed my 1040X in February and the WMAR tool showed absolutely nothing for months. Here's what finally worked for me: Called 1-800-829-1040 on a Wednesday at exactly 7:00 AM ET (set an alarm!). Had everything ready - SSN, both returns, AGI from both, filing status, and mailing address. Got through in about an hour. The rep told me something really important that nobody mentions - sometimes amended returns get "suspended" for manual review even when there's nothing wrong. Mine was sitting in a queue for a human to look at it, but there was no error or issue. She was able to release it right there on the phone, and I got my refund direct deposited 10 days later. Key things to ask the rep: 1) Is my return suspended or in error resolution? 2) Are there any holds or flags on my account? 3) Can you see any notes about why it's delayed? If you filed in January and it's March now, you're definitely within your rights to call and get answers. Don't let them give you the runaround about "normal processing times" - 8+ weeks with no movement in the system is not normal. Be polite but persistent, and don't hang up until you get a clear explanation of what's happening with YOUR money. Also, Giovanni - make sure you're checking the Account Transcript on IRS.gov, not just the WMAR tool. Sometimes processing codes show up there first before the tool updates.
I've been moving my money around this year trying to get better interest rates, and now I have a bunch of dormant bank accounts where I earned some interest. Thing is, none of them paid me more than $600 in interest for the year. I checked all their websites and FAQs, and they all say they don't send 1099-INT forms if the interest is under $600. I think I still need to report this on my taxes, right? But I'm confused about how to do it without having the official forms. Do I just add up all the little interest amounts from my statements and report the total somewhere? Will the IRS know about this money even though there's no 1099? I'm not trying to hide anything, just want to make sure I'm doing this right for my 2025 filing.
Just FYI for everyone - if you use tax software like TurboTax or H&R Block, they usually have a specific section for reporting interest income that didn't come with a 1099. They'll walk you through entering each bank's information and the interest amount. Makes it pretty easy to stay compliant even without the official forms!
This is such a common situation! I went through the exact same thing last year with multiple high-yield savings accounts. You're absolutely correct that you need to report ALL interest income, regardless of whether you receive a 1099-INT or not. Here's what I learned from my experience: First, log into each of your bank accounts and look for an annual summary or year-end statement - most banks provide these in their online portals by January. If you can't find that, your December statement should show year-to-date interest earned. For reporting, if your total interest income from all sources is over $1,500, you'll need to use Schedule B and list each payer separately. If it's under $1,500, you can just report the total on Line 2b of Form 1040. The key thing to remember is that banks DO report all interest payments to the IRS through information returns, even when they don't send you a 1099. So the IRS will know about this income eventually. It's much better to report it correctly upfront than deal with a notice later asking why your reported income doesn't match their records. Keep good records of where each amount came from - screenshot those online statements or save PDFs, because you'll want documentation if questions come up later.
I've hit a rough patch financially this past year and haven't actually held a job or made any income. I'm trying to figure out if I still need to go through the hassle of filing taxes for 2024. I know sometimes you can write off losses, but I'm honestly not sure if that applies to my situation or if I'm even required to file at all when I basically made zero dollars. I've heard mixed things from friends - some say don't bother filing if you made nothing, others say you always have to file no matter what. What's the real answer here? Do you NEED to file taxes when you didn't work or earn income? And if I don't file, could I get in trouble with the IRS later?
Another thing - some states have different filing requirements than federal. For example, I live in NJ and they require you to file a state return if your gross income was more than $10,000 regardless of your federal filing requirement. Check your state's rule!
Great question! I went through this exact situation a few years ago. The short answer is that you're generally NOT required to file if you truly had zero income and meet certain conditions, but there are some important exceptions and reasons why you might still want to file. The key things to consider: 1. **Filing thresholds**: For 2024, if you're single and under 65, you don't need to file if your gross income was under $12,950. With zero income, you're well below this. 2. **Dependency status matters**: If someone can claim you as a dependent, the rules change significantly (much lower thresholds). 3. **You might still WANT to file**: Even with no income, you could qualify for refundable credits like the Earned Income Tax Credit, Child Tax Credit, or American Opportunity Tax Credit that could put money in your pocket. 4. **Special circumstances require filing**: If you had self-employment income of $400+, received advance premium tax credits for health insurance, or had certain other situations, you must file regardless of total income. My advice? Even if you're not required to file, it's often worth doing a quick check to see if you qualify for any refundable credits. The IRS won't penalize you for filing when you don't have to, but they might penalize you for NOT filing when you should have. You won't get in trouble for not filing if you truly weren't required to, but double-check those special circumstances first!
Sofia Martinez
Quick question about the 1031 exchange timeframe - does the 45-day identification period include weekends and holidays? My closing date is April 1, 2025, so would my identification deadline be May 16 or would it be later if there are holidays?
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Dmitry Volkov
Yes, it includes weekends and holidays! The only exception is if the 45th day falls on a weekend or legal holiday, then you get until the next business day. But otherwise, it's 45 calendar days, no extensions. Mark your calendar carefully!
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Mateo Martinez
@Andre Lefebvre - Great question about 1031 exchanges! Just to add to what others have shared, I'd strongly recommend getting your qualified intermediary lined up BEFORE you list your property for sale. The exchange has to be set up before you close on your sale, and you can't touch the proceeds yourself or the whole exchange gets disqualified. One thing I learned the hard way - make sure your purchase agreement on the replacement property specifically states it's part of a 1031 exchange. Some sellers get nervous about exchange timelines and prefer cash buyers, so having this language upfront can help avoid issues later. Also, don't forget about the debt replacement requirement! If you had a mortgage on your relinquished property, you generally need to either put more cash into the replacement property or take on equal/greater debt to fully defer taxes. This trips up a lot of people who think they can just roll equity into a cheaper property. With your $135K gain, you're looking at significant tax savings if you do this right. Just make sure you have backup properties identified - I always recommend identifying at least 2-3 options within that 45-day window in case deals fall through!
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