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I completely understand your frustration - I went through almost the exact same situation about 6 months ago when I had to resell tickets to a Broadway show due to a family emergency. What Ticketmaster is asking for is absolutely legitimate. They need your Social Security Number (SSN), which serves as your tax ID. This is required under new IRS rules that went into effect in 2023 - any payment platform that processes over $600 for an individual during the tax year must collect this information and report it to the IRS via Form 1099-K. Here's the important part for your situation: since you sold your tickets at a loss (for $45 less than you paid), you won't owe any additional taxes on this money. When you file your taxes next year, you'll report the sale income but can also document your original purchase price as your cost basis, showing the IRS that this was actually a personal loss. A few tips to make the process go smoothly: - Make absolutely sure your name on your Ticketmaster account matches your bank account exactly (including middle initials, spacing, etc.) - Keep your original purchase receipts - you'll need them for tax documentation - The verification process typically takes 2-3 business days once you submit your SSN - You should get an email confirmation once they start processing I know it feels uncomfortable sharing your SSN, but Ticketmaster processes thousands of these daily and has proper security measures. Unfortunately, there's no way around it if you want your $200 back. Once I provided mine, I had my payment within 3 business days with no further issues. Hang in there - this is becoming very routine even though it's new and stressful for occasional sellers like us!

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Liam Murphy

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This is such a helpful and comprehensive explanation! I really appreciate you taking the time to walk through all the details, especially about the tax implications. As someone who's never dealt with anything like this before, it's incredibly reassuring to hear from multiple people who've successfully gone through this exact process. Your point about keeping the original purchase receipts is particularly important - I hadn't fully understood how the 1099-K reporting works and that it only shows the gross payment amount. Having that documentation to prove it was actually a loss transaction makes perfect sense for tax filing purposes. I'm definitely going to double-check that my account information matches my bank details exactly before submitting my SSN. It sounds like even small discrepancies can cause unnecessary delays, and I'd rather spend a few minutes fixing that upfront than wait extra weeks for manual review. Thanks for helping ease my concerns about this whole situation. It's clear this is just the new normal for payment platforms, even for one-time personal sales like ours!

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I went through this exact same situation last year and can completely understand your frustration! The SSN requirement caught me off guard too when I had to resell some concert tickets due to a work conflict. What Ticketmaster is asking for is legitimate - they need your Social Security Number as your tax ID due to IRS reporting requirements that took effect in 2023. Any payment platform processing over $600 for someone during the tax year must collect this information, even for one-time personal sales like yours. The good news is that since you sold at a loss (like I did - lost about $35 on mine), you won't owe any taxes on this transaction. You'll just need to keep your original purchase receipt to document the loss when filing taxes next year. Here's what helped me get through the process quickly: - Made sure my name on Ticketmaster matched my bank account exactly (including middle initials) - Submitted my SSN through their secure portal - Got my payment within 4 business days after verification I know sharing your SSN feels uncomfortable, but unfortunately it's the only way to get your money. Ticketmaster handles this for thousands of sellers and has proper security measures in place. Once you complete the verification, you should get your $200 without any further hassles. It's frustrating that they don't explain this upfront, but the process itself is pretty straightforward once you know what they need!

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Grace Thomas

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Thanks for sharing your experience! It's really reassuring to hear from someone who went through this exact situation. I'm curious - when you mention submitting your SSN through their "secure portal," did you have to log into your Ticketmaster account and find a specific section for tax verification, or did they send you a direct link via email? I want to make sure I'm using the right method when I submit mine, and I haven't received any specific instructions beyond the customer service rep just saying they "need my tax ID." I'd rather not have to go through multiple rounds of back-and-forth if I can submit it correctly the first time!

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Yuki Tanaka

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This is exactly the kind of confusion that trips up so many partnership tax filers! You're right to question this - having both Box 14A and 14C filled out with such different amounts (net vs gross) is a major red flag. From what you've described, your partnership accountant likely made an error. Box 14C should only contain an amount if you're specifically electing the nonfarm optional method, which has a maximum of $6,120 for 2024 - not your $78k gross revenue figure. The sudden tax increase you're seeing is because TurboTax is calculating self-employment tax on that $78k amount in addition to your regular income tax. That's an extra $11,934 in SE tax (15.3% x $78k) that you shouldn't owe if the form was prepared correctly. Here's what I'd recommend: 1. Contact your partnership accountant immediately to clarify why they filled Box 14C 2. For now, only enter the Box 14A amount in TurboTax and leave 14C blank 3. If your accountant can't provide a valid reason for using the optional method, request a corrected K-1 Most profitable partnerships should only use Box 14A. Don't let this mistake cost you thousands in unnecessary taxes!

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QuantumQuest

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This is incredibly helpful! I had no idea that Box 14C had such a low maximum ($6,120). That makes it crystal clear that putting $78k in there was completely wrong. I'm definitely going to follow your advice and contact our accountant first thing Monday morning. It's frustrating that this kind of basic error could have cost me nearly $12k in unnecessary taxes if I hadn't questioned it. One quick question - when you say "leave 14C blank" in TurboTax, do you mean just skip that field entirely, or should I enter zero? I want to make sure I don't accidentally trigger the optional method calculation. Thanks for breaking this down so clearly. This thread has been a lifesaver!

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Kara Yoshida

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This exact scenario happened to my business partner and me two years ago! We had a very similar setup - 50/50 partnership, profitable year, but our K-1 had both boxes filled out incorrectly. The key thing to understand is that Box 14C is specifically for the "nonfarm optional method" which has a statutory maximum of $6,120 for 2024 (and was lower in previous years). Your accountant putting $78k in there is definitely wrong - that's not how the optional method works at all. What's happening is TurboTax is treating that $78k as additional self-employment income on top of your regular partnership income, hence the massive tax increase. You're essentially being double-taxed on a large portion of your income. Here's what worked for us: We contacted our accountant with the specific IRS regulations (found in Publication 533) showing that the optional method has strict limits and specific use cases. Our accountant admitted the error and issued corrected K-1s with only Box 14A filled out. The corrected return saved us about $8,400 in unnecessary self-employment taxes. Don't let your accountant brush this off - the regulations are very clear that most profitable partnerships should only use Box 14A.

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Lourdes Fox

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Great question! I went through this exact same confusion when I started my current job. "FED MWT EE" stands for Federal Medicare Withholding Tax - Employee, which is the Medicare portion of your FICA taxes. This is separate from your regular federal income tax withholding. Medicare tax is a flat 1.45% of your gross wages (regardless of how much you make), so it should be a consistent percentage on each paycheck. If you make over $200,000 per year, there's an additional 0.9% Medicare tax, but for most people it's just the standard 1.45%. You should see this listed separately from your regular federal income tax withholding on your paystub. Different payroll systems use different abbreviations - some might show it as "Medicare," "FICA Med," or "MED" instead of "FED MWT EE." This is totally normal and required by law, so don't worry about it being an extra or unexpected deduction. Every employer has to withhold this for Medicare funding.

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I think there might be some confusion here - based on all the other responses in this thread, "FED MWT EE" actually stands for "Federal Withholding Tax - Employee" (regular federal income tax), not Medicare withholding tax. Medicare tax is typically shown separately on paystubs with labels like "Medicare" or "FICA Med" as you mentioned. The Medicare tax rate you cited (1.45%) is correct, but that's usually a much smaller dollar amount than what most people see for their federal income tax withholding. If the original poster said this deduction was taking "a decent chunk" of their paycheck, it's almost certainly the federal income tax withholding rather than the Medicare tax portion. Just wanted to clarify so there's no confusion about which tax this abbreviation refers to!

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I have to respectfully disagree with this interpretation. Throughout this entire thread, multiple community members with payroll experience have consistently explained that "FED MWT EE" stands for "Federal Withholding Tax - Employee," which refers to federal income tax withholding, not Medicare tax. Medicare withholding is indeed 1.45% as you mentioned, but it's typically labeled much more clearly on paystubs (like "Medicare," "FICA Med," or "Med Tax") since it's a straightforward flat rate that employers want employees to easily identify. The original poster mentioned this deduction was taking "a decent chunk" of their paycheck, which aligns with federal income tax withholding (which can range from 10-37% depending on income level) rather than the relatively small 1.45% Medicare tax. Also, federal income tax withholding varies significantly based on income, filing status, and W-4 elections, which matches the OP's confusion about why this amount seemed different from previous jobs. Medicare tax, being a flat percentage, wouldn't typically cause that kind of variation confusion. I think it's important we provide accurate information here since tax withholding can be stressful enough without conflating different types of taxes!

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I went through this exact same confusion when I started my first corporate job! "FED MWT EE" stands for "Federal Withholding Tax - Employee" - it's just your regular federal income tax that gets withheld from each paycheck and sent to the IRS. What threw me off initially was that my previous part-time jobs either didn't withhold much (because I made so little) or used completely different abbreviations. It's totally normal to see variations like "Fed Tax," "FIT," "Federal W/H," or "Fed Withholding" depending on which payroll company your employer uses. The amount seems like a big chunk because federal income tax rates are progressive - the more you earn, the higher percentage gets withheld. If this is a step up in salary from previous jobs, that would explain why it feels like a lot more than you're used to seeing. Don't stress about it being "wrong" - this is completely standard and required by law. Just make sure you also see separate line items for Social Security and Medicare taxes (usually labeled something like "FICA SS" and "FICA Med"), which are different from this federal income tax withholding.

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This is really helpful, thank you! I'm actually in a very similar situation - just graduated and started my first full-time job, and seeing all these payroll deductions for the first time is pretty overwhelming. Your explanation about the progressive tax rates makes a lot of sense - I did get a significant salary bump from my part-time student jobs, so that would explain why the FED MWT EE amount seems so much higher than what I'm used to. I'm glad you mentioned checking for the separate FICA lines too. I just looked at my paystub again and can see "FICA SS" and "FICA MED" listed separately, so that confirms this FED MWT EE is indeed the federal income tax withholding like everyone's been saying. One quick question - you mentioned that the amount gets sent to the IRS on my behalf. Does that mean I don't need to do anything special when tax season comes around, or do I still need to file a return to reconcile everything? I'm trying to prepare myself for what to expect next April!

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Sydney, you're definitely not alone in feeling overwhelmed by taxes! I remember my first year filing - I stared at my W-2 for like 20 minutes trying to figure out what all the boxes meant. Just to add another perspective on your $24k income situation: you mentioned working your first full-time job after high school, so you might also want to ask your tax professional about education credits if you took any college courses or vocational training. Things like the American Opportunity Tax Credit can be pretty valuable for people in your situation and age range. Also, since you're just starting out in the workforce, this might be a good time to think about your withholding going forward. If you do get a big refund this year, you could potentially adjust your W-4 with your employer to have less taken out of each paycheck and get more money throughout the year instead of waiting for a big refund. Your tax professional can explain how that works too. The appointment this weekend sounds perfect - don't feel bad about needing help! Even people who've been filing for years sometimes need professional assistance when their situation changes. You're being responsible by making sure it's done right the first time.

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This is such valuable advice! I hadn't even thought about education credits - I did take a few community college courses while finishing high school, so that's definitely something I should ask about at my appointment this weekend. The point about adjusting withholding for next year is really smart too. I've been living paycheck to paycheck, so getting more money throughout the year instead of one big refund would probably be more helpful for budgeting. I'll definitely ask the tax professional to explain how that W-4 adjustment works. It's so reassuring to hear from everyone that needing help with your first tax return is totally normal. I was feeling kind of stupid for not understanding all this stuff, but it sounds like even experienced people sometimes need professional help. Thanks for sharing your experience and all the practical tips!

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Jade Santiago

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Hey Sydney! Just wanted to add my experience as someone who was in your exact shoes a few years ago. The confusion you're feeling is so normal - I remember calling my mom in tears because I thought I had messed up my taxes somehow! One thing that really helped me understand the system: think of your federal withholding (Box 2) like a security deposit. Your employer took that money out of your paychecks all year and sent it to the IRS as an estimate of what you'd owe. At tax time, you calculate your actual tax bill. If the "deposit" was bigger than what you actually owe, you get the difference back. If it was less, you pay the difference. With your $24k income, you'll definitely owe some tax, but probably way less than what was withheld. First-time filers often get pleasant surprises because employers tend to be conservative with withholding. The Social Security stuff (FICA) is completely separate - that's like paying into a retirement/disability insurance program that you'll benefit from later. That money never comes back as a refund, but it's building credits for your future benefits. Your weekend appointment is going to clear everything up! Don't be shy about asking lots of questions - that's literally what you're paying them for. Good luck!

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Chris King

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This security deposit analogy is brilliant! I've been struggling to understand the withholding system and that comparison makes it so much clearer. I was getting really anxious thinking that the money in Box 2 was just gone forever if I didn't get it all back, but understanding it as a prepayment that gets reconciled at tax time is really helpful. It's also reassuring to hear that you had a similar emotional reaction - I definitely had a moment of panic when the tax software started asking about all these things I'd never heard of. Knowing that first-time filers often get pleasant surprises because of conservative withholding gives me hope that this won't be as bad as I'm imagining. Thanks for explaining the FICA taxes too. I was confused about why those were separate and non-refundable, but thinking of it as insurance premiums for future benefits makes sense. Really appreciate you sharing your experience - it helps so much to hear from people who've been through this exact confusion!

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StarGazer101

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Something else to consider that I haven't seen mentioned yet - if you're planning to make this a regular activity (buying and selling precious metals), the IRS might classify you as a "dealer" rather than an investor, which would change the tax treatment entirely. Dealer status means your profits would be treated as ordinary business income rather than collectibles, but you'd also be able to deduct business expenses. The IRS looks at factors like frequency of transactions, time spent on the activity, and whether you're trying to profit from short-term price movements versus long-term holding. Since this sounds like a one-off lucky find rather than an ongoing business, you should be fine with collectibles treatment, but it's worth keeping in mind if you get bitten by the precious metals bug and start doing this more regularly. Also, given that you got such an incredible deal at the estate sale, you might want to document not just your purchase but also the circumstances - photos of the original purchase, any communications with the estate, etc. While you have receipts, having additional documentation of how you acquired them at face value could be helpful if the IRS ever questions such a large gain relative to your stated basis.

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Omar Zaki

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This is a really important point about dealer status that I hadn't considered! As someone new to precious metals investing, I'm definitely glad you brought this up. The distinction between investor and dealer treatment could completely change the tax picture if someone gets more active in this space. Your advice about documenting the circumstances of the purchase is spot-on too. Even though the OP has receipts, having photos and additional documentation of the estate sale context would really help establish the legitimacy of acquiring $3,000+ worth of silver for face value. That kind of gain-to-basis ratio might raise eyebrows during an audit, so extra documentation seems like smart insurance. I'm curious though - do you know what the IRS considers "frequent" when determining dealer status? Is it based on number of transactions per year, dollar volume, or some combination? I'd hate for someone to accidentally cross that line without realizing it and end up with unexpected tax consequences.

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NebulaKnight

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Great question about dealer status frequency thresholds! The IRS doesn't have hard numerical rules, but they generally look at the "facts and circumstances" test. From what I've seen in tax court cases, people who buy and sell precious metals more than a few times per year, especially if they're actively seeking out deals to flip quickly, are more likely to be classified as dealers. The key factors the IRS considers are: 1) Frequency and regularity of sales, 2) Length of ownership (dealers typically hold for shorter periods), 3) Time and effort spent on the activity, 4) Whether you're seeking quick profits vs. long-term appreciation, and 5) Whether precious metals sales are your primary source of income or just supplemental. Generally speaking, if you're buying and holding for investment purposes and only selling occasionally, you should be fine staying in investor status. But if you start actively seeking out estate sales, coin shows, and online deals with the intent to resell quickly for profit, that starts looking more like dealer activity. For the OP's situation - one lucky estate sale find that you're selling after holding for several months definitely sounds like investor treatment. Just be mindful if you catch the precious metals bug and start doing this more regularly!

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This whole thread has been incredibly educational! As someone completely new to both precious metals and tax implications, I really appreciate everyone breaking down the collectibles vs capital gains distinction and all the practical considerations. One thing I'm still a bit confused about - when you mentioned the "facts and circumstances" test for dealer status, does the IRS provide any guidance on what constitutes "seeking quick profits"? Like if someone bought coins and sold them after 13 months specifically to get long-term treatment, would that timing strategy be seen as dealer-like behavior or just smart tax planning? Also, @NebulaKnight, you mentioned tax court cases - are those publicly available to review? It might be helpful to see some real examples of how the IRS has applied these dealer vs investor distinctions in practice, especially for precious metals. Thanks again to everyone who's shared their knowledge and experiences here. This community has been amazingly helpful for understanding what seemed like a really complex tax situation!

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