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Ask the community...

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Xan Dae

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Does anyone know if you can deduct your actual DFS contest entry fees as a business expense? Like if I spent $5000 on contests but won $6000, can I just report the $1000 profit, or do I need to report $6000 income and then deduct the $5000 in fees separately?

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Fidel Carson

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You should report the full $6000 as your gross income and then deduct the $5000 in entry fees as a business expense on your Schedule C. This gives you the correct $1000 net profit, but properly documents both your revenue and expenses. This approach is better because it gives you a more complete business record if you're ever audited, and also correctly calculates your self-employment tax base. Just make sure to keep detailed records of all your entry fees and contests.

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This is such a timely question with the NFL season starting! I've been dealing with this exact confusion for the past two years. The key thing to understand is that the IRS doesn't actually view DFS and sports betting as the same activity, even though they both involve sports. DFS platforms successfully argued that their contests are skill-based competitions between players (similar to poker tournaments), while traditional sports betting is classified as gambling against the house. For tax purposes, this means: - DFS winnings go on Schedule C as business income, and you can deduct research subscriptions, data services, and contest entry fees as business expenses - Sports betting winnings go on Form W-2G and losses can only offset wins if you itemize on Schedule A The practical advice: keep separate records for each activity. I use different spreadsheets to track my DraftKings contests versus my occasional bets at the sportsbook. It makes tax season much less stressful when everything is already categorized correctly. Also worth noting that some states treat these differently too, so make sure you understand your state's specific rules in addition to federal requirements.

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This is really helpful! I'm new to both DFS and sports betting, and I had no idea they were treated so differently for taxes. Quick question - when you mention keeping separate spreadsheets, what specific information should I be tracking for each activity? I want to make sure I'm documenting everything correctly from the start rather than scrambling at tax time.

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A little-known trick: if you make a large estimated payment in January of the following year (before filing), you might be able to apply it to the previous year's Q4 estimated payment. I've done this before when I realized I might face an underpayment penalty. The key is to specify on the payment voucher that you want it applied to the previous tax year's Q4 payment. This won't help with penalties from Q1-Q3 underpayments, but it can reduce the Q4 portion of any penalty.

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Dylan Baskin

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Does this really work? I thought Q4 estimated payments had to be made by January 15th to count for the previous year. Are you saying you can make them even later?

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You're right to question this - Q4 estimated payments for the previous tax year must be made by January 15th, not later. I think Hunter might be confusing this with making an estimated payment for the current year in January, which wouldn't help with the previous year's underpayment penalty. Once the January 15th deadline passes, your only options are to pay the penalty or request a waiver/abatement. You can't retroactively fix underpayments after that date.

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This is such a common area of confusion! I went through the same thing last year with my mixed W-2 and consulting income. One thing that really helped me understand the penalty calculation was realizing that the IRS essentially wants you to "pay as you go" rather than catch up at year-end. So even if your total payments exceed your tax liability, you can still owe a penalty if those payments weren't distributed properly throughout the year. For your 2025 planning, increasing withholding is definitely the right move since it's treated as paid evenly throughout the year. But don't completely eliminate estimated payments if your self-employment income is substantial - you might just need to adjust the timing and amounts. Also worth noting: if your prior year tax liability was under $1,000, or if this is your first time owing an underpayment penalty, you might qualify for first-time penalty abatement even after filing. The IRS is surprisingly reasonable about waiving penalties for taxpayers with good compliance history.

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CosmicCadet

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This is really helpful context! I'm dealing with a similar situation and your point about "pay as you go" really clarifies why the penalty exists even when total payments are sufficient. Question about the first-time penalty abatement - do you know if there's a specific form to request this, or do you just call the IRS? I've never had an underpayment penalty before and my prior year tax liability was definitely over $1,000, but I have a clean compliance history for the past several years. Would love to explore this option before just paying the penalty. Also, when you increased your withholding for the following year, did you adjust it evenly or weight it more toward the beginning of the year to be extra safe?

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How to properly calculate cost basis for ESPP stocks and RSUs when transferring brokerages?

I'm completely lost when it comes to understanding cost basis for my company stock options. I've owned a mix of ESPP stocks and RSUs from my previous employer for about 6 years now. I no longer work at the company. Currently, these shares are sitting in an Etrade ESPP stock plan account that's linked to my former employer. I recently discovered they're charging me $25 for each transaction I make on these stocks - even selling a single share costs me $25! I learned I could transfer these stocks to a regular brokerage account with no trading commissions, so I called Etrade to get this process started. Here's where it gets confusing. The Etrade rep warned me that the ESPP account provides important tax information that the regular account doesn't. They explained that when selling ESPP stocks or RSUs, it's not like selling regular stocks - you need to account for the "estimated cost basis" in addition to the sale price and gain/loss. Apparently, the ESPP account automatically calculates all this and provides tax documents, which is what I'm paying for with those high fees. I'm willing to track this information myself to avoid the fees, but I spent over an hour on the phone and still have no idea what I actually need to calculate or how to determine this "estimated cost basis." When I asked how it's calculated, they said it varies by company policies and is too complex to explain. They mentioned it somehow factors in my income, but didn't explain how. I really want to move away from this high-commission account, but I'm concerned about this cost basis issue. What exactly is this estimated cost basis for ESPP and RSUs? How do I calculate it myself? Are there resources where I can learn about this? Is this something I can reasonably handle myself, or should I just keep paying the fees?

Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting ESPP and RSU sales? I'm wondering if they have any built-in tools for calculating the correct cost basis. I transferred my shares to Fidelity last year and now I'm worried I might mess up my taxes.

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TurboTax Premium has a section specifically for ESPPs and RSUs. It asks about your purchase date, purchase price, offering date (for ESPP), FMV at time of purchase, and sale details. It then calculates everything correctly, including whether you have a qualifying disposition. The key is having all your original documentation from Etrade before you start. Last year I had to pause my tax prep and call my former employer's stock admin team to get some missing information about my ESPP offering periods.

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Ezra Bates

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One thing I'd add to all the great advice here - make sure you understand the "look-back" provision that many ESPPs have. This can significantly affect your cost basis calculation and whether you have a qualifying disposition. Many ESPPs allow you to purchase shares at a discount based on the LOWER of either the stock price at the beginning of the offering period OR the stock price at the end of the offering period. If your plan had this feature, your actual purchase price might be different than what you think, and this affects both your cost basis and the amount of discount that gets taxed as ordinary income. I learned this the hard way when I sold some old ESPP shares and discovered my cost basis was actually lower than I calculated because of the look-back provision. Check your original ESPP plan documents or contact your former employer's benefits team to confirm if your plan had this feature. Also, don't forget that some brokerages will automatically apply incorrect cost basis adjustments when you transfer ESPP shares. Make sure to review and correct these before you sell, or you might end up paying taxes on money you've already been taxed on.

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Beth Ford

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This is such an important point about the look-back provision! I had no idea this even existed and I've been holding ESPP shares for 3 years. How do I find out if my company's plan had this feature? My former employer was acquired last year, so I'm not sure who would even have access to the original plan documents anymore. Also, when you mention brokerages applying incorrect cost basis adjustments during transfers - is this something I should proactively check, or will it be obvious when I look at my account? I'm planning to transfer my shares from Etrade to Vanguard next month and want to make sure I don't miss this.

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Given your situation with multiple jobs totaling around $40k, I'd recommend taking a conservative approach to avoid owing taxes next April. Since your new full-time position will be your primary income source, that's where you should make your withholding adjustments. Here's what I'd do: On your new job's W-4, check the multiple jobs box AND add $35-45 extra withholding per paycheck on line 4c. This should cover the tax liability from all three jobs without drastically overwithholding. Keep your Target and bartending W-4s simple - just mark single with no other jobs. Since the bartending income is unpredictable and relatively small, don't stress too much about it. The extra withholding from your main job should provide a good buffer. The key advantage of this approach is flexibility. If you do end up quitting the bartending job, you won't need to scramble to update multiple forms. And if your Target hours fluctuate, the buffer from your main job withholding should still cover you. You can always use the IRS withholding estimator mid-year to fine-tune things once you have a better sense of your actual income patterns. Better to get a modest refund than face penalties for underwithholding!

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Mateo Perez

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This is exactly the kind of practical advice I was looking for! I really appreciate the specific dollar amounts and the step-by-step approach. The idea of using the full-time job as the main withholding point makes so much sense, especially since that's where most of my income will be coming from. I think I'll go with your suggestion of adding around $40 extra per paycheck on line 4c of my new job's W-4. That should give me a good buffer for the unpredictable bartending income without being too conservative. Thanks for breaking it down so clearly - this makes the whole W-4 process way less intimidating!

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Jacinda Yu

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I've been in a similar situation with multiple jobs and want to emphasize something important that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you're tracking your income throughout the year, especially with those variable bartending shifts. Since you mentioned you might only work the restaurant 1-2 times per month for around $150 per shift, that could still add up to $1,800-3,600 annually depending on tips. The unpredictable nature of service industry income makes it tricky for any withholding calculator. My recommendation would be to take a middle-ground approach: Use your full-time job's W-4 to handle the heavy lifting by checking the multiple jobs box and adding about $35 per paycheck on line 4c. This should cover your base tax liability from all sources. Then, set aside about 20-25% of your bartending earnings in a separate savings account as you go. If you end up owing a little at tax time, you'll have that cushion. If you don't need it, great - you've got some extra savings! This strategy has saved me from both overwithholding stress and tax-time surprises. Also consider doing a mid-year check-in around July to see how your actual income is tracking against your estimates. You can always submit a new W-4 to adjust if needed.

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Amina Bah

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I went through this exact same situation about 8 months ago and it was so stressful! That "TAX REFUND PROC for RFND DISB" description is completely unhelpful - it's just the standard Treasury wording that shows up on everyone's tax refund, whether you get the full amount or not. The missing $1,100 definitely sounds like an offset, and I hate how the IRS Where's My Refund tool gives you zero warning about this. Mine showed the full expected amount right up until the day the money hit my account, then boom - I was short $1,400 with no explanation. What saved me tons of time and stress was calling the Treasury Offset Program at 800-304-3107. It's an automated system where you just enter your SSN and it immediately tells you which agency took money from your refund and how much. No waiting on hold, no confusing paperwork - just straight answers. In my case, it turned out to be an old state tax debt from when I moved across the country. I had completely forgotten about it because they'd been sending notices to my old address. Once I knew what agency to contact, I was able to call them directly and work out a payment plan that actually qualified me for a partial refund of the offset amount. Don't give up on that missing money! A lot of people in similar situations have been able to get at least some of it back when there were errors in the collection process or when they qualified for hardship programs. The key is finding out who took it first, then you can decide your next steps.

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Ev Luca

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation right now and was completely panicking when I saw my refund was $800 short. That "TAX REFUND PROC for RFND DISB" description had me so confused - I thought maybe my bank had made an error or something. It's really reassuring to hear that so many people have been able to figure out what happened and even get some of their money back in certain cases. I'm definitely going to try calling that 800-304-3107 number tomorrow. Even if I can't dispute whatever the offset is for, at least I'll know what's going on instead of just wondering where my money went. Thanks for sharing your experience with the state tax debt - that's exactly the kind of thing I'm worried about since I've moved a few times in recent years. It's scary how these old debts can just pop up and take your refund without any warning!

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Ethan Clark

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Hey Kyle, I totally feel your frustration! I went through the exact same thing a few months back - got hit with that confusing "TAX REFUND PROC for RFND DISB" description and was missing about $900 from my expected refund. It's such a punch to the gut when you're counting on that money! Everyone here has given you solid advice about calling 800-304-3107 - that Treasury Offset Program hotline is definitely your fastest bet to find out what's going on. I used it and found out within 2 minutes that I had an old overpayment from unemployment benefits during COVID that I'd completely forgotten about. One thing I'd add is to not panic if it turns out to be a legitimate debt. Even if the offset is valid, many agencies have programs that can help. In my case, I was able to get about half of my offset refunded because I qualified for a financial hardship waiver. It took some paperwork and a few phone calls, but I got $450 back about 6 weeks later. The "TAX REFUND PROC for RFND DISB" part is totally normal - that's just Treasury's standard description for ALL tax refunds. The real issue is that missing $1,100, but at least you'll have answers soon once you make that call. Keep us posted on what you find out!

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