double check ur direct deposit info on ur return. I had the wrong routing number last year and it took forever to sort out

I'm in the same situation with my Michigan refund! Shows Feb 11 deposit date but still waiting. Based on what others are saying it sounds like MI is just running behind this year. I'll give it until Friday before I start panicking. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - makes me feel better knowing I'm not the only one!

Does anyone know if the payment processors send you a receipt or confirmation? I paid through one last year but never got anything by email, just the confirmation number on the screen which I wrote down. Is that normal?

For anyone still concerned about the 1040-V voucher - I had the same worry last year! The key thing to remember is that when you pay online with a credit card, the payment processor automatically links your payment to your tax return using your SSN and other identifying info you enter during checkout. The 1040-V is essentially just a paper trail for mailed payments. Think of it like a deposit slip at the bank - if you're doing online banking, you don't need the paper slip because the electronic transaction handles all the routing. One tip: after you make your online payment, you can check that it went through by logging into your IRS account online after a few business days. It should show up under your payment history, which gives you extra peace of mind that everything was processed correctly.

I went through this exact same confusion last year! After reading through all these comments, I want to add that if you're still unsure about your specific situation, you can also check your final paystub from December. It should show year-to-date totals for various deductions including health insurance premiums. Compare what's shown on your paystub for health insurance deductions with what's in Box 14 of your W-2. If they match, then your employer is correctly reporting your pre-tax premium contributions in Box 14. This is totally normal and legitimate - you're not getting "screwed over" as someone mentioned earlier. The key thing to remember is that pre-tax health insurance premiums actually SAVE you money on taxes because they reduce your taxable income. So whether it's in Box 12 or Box 14, as long as those premiums were deducted pre-tax from your paycheck, you're benefiting tax-wise.

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a CPA and want to emphasize a few key points for anyone still confused about Box 14 reporting: 1. Box 14 is NOT an error box - it's specifically designed for additional information that doesn't have a dedicated spot elsewhere on the W-2. 2. Health insurance premiums in Box 14 typically indicate they were deducted pre-tax from your paycheck, which actually BENEFITS you by reducing your taxable income. 3. The location of the reporting (Box 12 vs Box 14) doesn't change your tax liability. What matters is whether the premiums were deducted pre-tax or post-tax. 4. If you want to verify everything is correct, compare your Box 1 wages (federal taxable income) with your gross pay from your final paystub. The difference should include your pre-tax deductions like health insurance. For the original poster - your employer is likely doing everything correctly. Box 14 reporting for insurance premiums is very common and completely legitimate. You're not losing money on your taxes because of this reporting method.

Another option to consider is reaching out to local accounting students or recent graduates. Many colleges with accounting programs have students who need practical experience and might help with your 1120S filing for a reasonable fee (often much less than established CPAs charge). You could contact the accounting department at nearby universities - they sometimes have programs where students work on real tax returns under professor supervision. Also, don't overlook the IRS Free File program completely. While it doesn't cover business returns directly, some of the participating software companies offer discounted rates on their business products if you qualify for their personal tax free filing. It's worth checking with companies like FreeTaxUSA or TaxAct to see if they have any promotions running. One last tip: if your S-Corp is relatively simple (single owner, no complex transactions), you might be able to use the fillable PDF forms from the IRS website and file by mail. It's more work but completely free except for postage.

Good question about liability with student preparers! Generally, you as the taxpayer remain responsible for the accuracy of your return regardless of who prepares it. However, many university tax programs carry professional liability insurance and have licensed CPAs or EAs supervising the work, which provides some protection. Always ask about their oversight process and insurance coverage before proceeding. For the 1120S forms, here's what you typically need for a basic S-Corp: - Form 1120S (main return) - Schedule K-1 for each shareholder - Schedule K (summary of shareholders' shares) - Schedule L (balance sheet) if total receipts or assets ≥ $250k The IRS has a helpful "Instructions for Form 1120S" document that includes a filing checklist on page 1-2. Also check out IRS Publication 334 "Tax Guide for Small Business" - it breaks down business tax requirements in more digestible language than the form instructions. If your S-Corp is truly simple (one owner, basic income/expenses, no weird transactions), you might only need the core forms above. But definitely review that checklist first to make sure you're not missing anything required for your specific situation.

Jacob, I completely understand your anxiety about filing taxes for the first time with eBay sales thrown into the mix! I went through something very similar last year and was equally overwhelmed. Here's the simplified version: You only owe taxes on actual profit, not your total sales amount. Since you sold $1,300 worth of items that originally cost you $650-700, your profit is around $600-650 on paper. However, since these were personal items (clothes, electronics, collectibles) that have depreciated over time, your actual taxable profit is likely much lower or potentially zero. The IRS treats occasional sales of personal property very differently from running a business. Since you weren't buying items specifically to resell, this falls under personal property sales rather than business income, which simplifies things significantly. You'll probably receive a 1099-K from eBay since you exceeded the $600 threshold, but don't let that scare you - it just shows gross sales, not taxable income. When filing, you'll report the gross amount and then deduct what you originally paid for the items to show your actual profit. For your first time filing, I'd strongly recommend using FreeTaxUSA or similar software rather than paying for a tax preparer. The software will walk you through everything step-by-step and handle the calculations properly. Keep simple records of what you estimate you paid for items originally (reasonable estimates are totally fine for old purchases). You're going to be just fine - the IRS isn't trying to nail college students selling old stuff!

Hey Jacob! Don't stress too much - your situation is actually pretty common and manageable. Since this is your first time filing, here are the key points to focus on: You're right that you'll likely need to report the eBay income, but the good news is you only owe taxes on actual profit, not the full $1,300 in sales. Since you originally paid around $650-700 for those items, your profit is roughly $600-650. However, personal items like clothes and electronics depreciate over time, so your actual taxable profit might be even less. eBay will probably send you a 1099-K since you exceeded $600 in sales, but don't panic when you see that form - it just shows gross sales, not what you actually owe taxes on. For tax software, I'd recommend FreeTaxUSA (as others have mentioned) - it's free for federal filing and only $15 for state. It will walk you through reporting this type of income step-by-step without the expensive upsells that TurboTax pushes. Keep simple records of what you estimate you originally paid for the items you sold. Even rough estimates are fine for the IRS - they understand most people don't keep receipts for old personal items for years. Since these were personal belongings you were clearing out (not items bought specifically to resell), the IRS treats this very differently from running an actual business. You're not accidentally becoming a business owner by selling old stuff on eBay! Take a deep breath - you've got this, and it's way less complicated than it initially seems.