Great thread with lots of helpful solutions! I had a similar issue last year and ended up finding my AGI in the most obvious place - my actual tax return that I had printed and filed away. Sometimes we overthink these things when the answer is sitting in our filing cabinet or downloads folder. For anyone still struggling, here's what worked for me: I searched my computer for any files with "1040" or "tax" in the name from last year's filing period. Found the PDF copy of my return that way, and there was my AGI on line 11. If you're really stuck and none of these methods work, remember that many tax prep services will accept alternative verification methods if you explain the situation. Some will let you answer additional identity verification questions instead of providing your AGI. Worth asking your new tax service about backup options before going through all the hassle of getting transcripts or calling the IRS.

Just wanted to add one more option that saved me in a similar situation - if you filed jointly with a spouse last year and they used a different tax service, they might have a copy of your joint return with the AGI listed. Also, if you had a tax preparer help you last year (even if you ultimately filed through FreeTaxUSA yourself), they're required to keep copies of returns for at least three years. A quick call to any CPA or tax prep service you might have consulted could get you that AGI number. I know it's frustrating when you're trying to file and this one number is holding everything up, but there are definitely multiple paths to get it. The email search suggestion from Isabella is probably your best bet - most people forget they have those confirmation emails sitting in their inbox!

Just a warning from personal experience - if you're using TurboTax, it sometimes gets confused with multiple Schedule Cs, especially when they're related entities. Last year it kept thinking I was trying to report the same business twice. I ended up having to call their support line. Might want to consider using a tax pro the first year you set this up just to make sure everything's being reported correctly.

I've been through this exact scenario with my consulting LLC that spawned a separate tech services division. You're absolutely right about the tax treatment - everything flows through to your personal return since both LLCs are disregarded entities. One practical tip: when you set up that dedicated credit card for the subsidiary, consider getting a business card specifically in the subsidiary LLC's name once it's established. This makes expense tracking much cleaner and helps maintain the "corporate veil" between entities. Until then, your reimbursement approach is perfectly fine. Also, don't overthink the EIN situation. I got separate EINs for each of my LLCs even though I could have used my SSN, and it's made banking, vendor relationships, and general business operations much smoother. The paperwork is minimal and it's free to get an EIN directly from the IRS website. For bookkeeping, I second the recommendation about using classes or locations in QuickBooks if you go the single-file route. Just make sure your chart of accounts is detailed enough to easily separate expenses by entity at year-end. The key is being able to generate clean financial statements for each business independently, even if you're filing them together on your tax return.

I went through something very similar with my old Coca-Cola shares that I inherited and had in DRIP for years. The key thing to remember is that each DRIP purchase creates a separate tax lot with its own cost basis and purchase date, even if it's just buying a fraction of a share. For record-keeping, I'd strongly recommend creating a spreadsheet that tracks each purchase (including reinvested dividends) with the date, number of shares purchased, and price per share. Then apply any stock splits chronologically to adjust both the share count and cost basis per share for each lot. When you sell using FIFO, you're correct that you'd start with your oldest shares first. So yes, your original gifted share (now 4 shares after the splits) would be sold first, then move chronologically through your DRIP purchases. One thing to watch out for: make sure you're accounting for any dividend reinvestments that happened between the stock splits, as those would have their own purchase dates and would also be subject to the split adjustments. It can get complex quickly, but the principle remains the same - oldest shares out first under FIFO.

One thing that might help is to check if McDonald's has an investor relations section on their website with historical dividend and split information. Many companies maintain detailed records of all their corporate actions that you can use to verify your calculations. Also, since you mentioned this was a gift from your grandparents, make sure you're using their original cost basis (what they paid for it), not the fair market value when you received it. Gifted shares retain the original owner's cost basis, unlike inherited shares which get a stepped-up basis. If you're still enrolled in any dividend reinvestment plans, your statements should show the cost basis for each DRIP purchase. Many companies switched to electronic recordkeeping in the early 2000s, so you might be able to access historical records online through the plan administrator's website.

I've been following this thread and it's been incredibly helpful! Just wanted to add one more tip that might be useful for others in similar situations: If you're someone who typically saves important documents digitally, check your Downloads folder or email attachments from around the time you filed. Many tax software programs automatically email you a copy of your return confirmation, and some people save the final PDF before submitting. Also, for future reference, I've started taking a screenshot of the banking information page right before I hit "submit" on my tax return. It takes 2 seconds but saves so much worry later! Connor, I hope you were able to find your banking details through one of the methods everyone suggested. The fact that you filed just last month means you're well within the normal processing timeframe, so try not to stress too much. The IRS system may seem complicated, but as others have pointed out, there are built-in safeguards - even if there was an error, you'd still get your refund, just potentially as a paper check with a slight delay. This community has been so helpful in breaking down what could have been a really stressful situation into manageable steps. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences!

I'm going through this exact same concern right now! Filed my taxes about two weeks ago and have been losing sleep wondering if I entered my bank details correctly. After reading through all these responses, I feel so much better knowing that: 1. The banking info not showing on transcripts is actually a security feature, not a bug 2. There are multiple ways to verify what I submitted without calling the IRS 3. Even if there was an error, I'd still get my refund eventually - just as a paper check I'm definitely going to log into my tax software account first thing tomorrow to check my filed return. And that tip about taking a screenshot during filing next year is brilliant - such a simple way to avoid this whole worry! Connor, thanks for asking this question. I was too embarrassed to ask it myself, but clearly this is a common concern based on all the helpful responses. This community has been incredibly reassuring for those of us navigating tax season anxiety!

Another thing to consider is that some states automatically issue you a refund even if you don't file! In my state, if your W-2 withholding info is reported to them and it shows you overpaid, they sometimes just send you a check. Happened to me 2 years ago.

I went through this exact same dilemma last year! Here's what I found out after doing some research: if you don't file when the state owes you money, there's typically no penalty at all. The worst that happens is you forfeit your refund after the statute of limitations runs out (usually 3-4 years). However, I'd recommend double-checking a couple things first. Make sure you're not actually required to file in your state regardless of refund amount - some states have mandatory filing thresholds based on income. Also, if you have any estimated tax payments or credits you're not accounting for, you might owe more than you think. One trick I learned: some tax software lets you prepare your return completely for free, then only charges if you actually file. So you could double-check your calculations without paying anything. If it confirms you're only getting $11 back and filing costs $15, then yeah, skip it and pocket the difference!