IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Mei Chen

β€’

Just wanted to add another perspective here - I've been in a similar situation with my partner for about 3 years. We've found that keeping things simple and proportional to income really helps avoid any potential issues. What we do is calculate our combined monthly expenses (rent, utilities, groceries, etc.) and then each contribute based on our income percentage. So if I make 60% of our combined income, I put in 60% of the shared expenses. This way neither of us is really "gifting" money to the other - we're just paying our fair share. The IRS is generally more concerned with large, one-sided transfers that look like you're trying to avoid gift taxes. Normal cost-of-living sharing between cohabiting partners, even unmarried ones, typically doesn't raise red flags as long as it's reasonable and proportional. That said, definitely keep some basic records like others have mentioned. Even just saving your bank statements and maybe a simple note about your arrangement could be helpful if questions ever come up later.

0 coins

Isaiah Cross

β€’

This is exactly the approach my girlfriend and I have been considering! The proportional contribution based on income makes so much sense and seems like the fairest way to handle shared expenses. Quick question - do you track each individual expense category separately, or do you just calculate one lump sum for all shared expenses combined? We're trying to figure out the simplest way to set this up without making it too complicated to maintain long-term. Also, when you say "basic records," are you talking about just keeping the bank statements showing the transfers, or do you also document what the money was used for? Thanks for sharing your experience!

0 coins

We keep it pretty simple - just one lump sum calculation for all shared expenses combined. At the beginning of each month, we add up rent, utilities, groceries budget, and any other regular shared costs, then each transfer our percentage into the joint account. For records, we mainly just keep the bank statements showing our monthly contributions and then a simple note in our phones about our income split percentage and how we calculated it. We don't track every individual grocery trip or utility payment - just the overall monthly contributions. The key is consistency. As long as you're both contributing regularly based on the same agreed-upon method, it's pretty clearly not a gift situation. We've been doing this for years without any issues, and having that simple documentation gives us peace of mind that we could explain our arrangement if needed.

0 coins

Yuki Kobayashi

β€’

This is really helpful information from everyone! I'm in a similar situation with my partner and we've been wondering about this exact issue. One thing I'd add is that it's worth considering setting up a separate "household" account that you both contribute to proportionally, rather than just having one person deposit large amounts that the other uses. That way there's a clearer paper trail showing both people contributing to shared expenses. We started doing this after reading about potential gift tax issues, and it makes everything much more transparent. Each month we calculate our shared expenses (rent, utilities, groceries, etc.) and transfer our proportional shares based on income into the household account. All shared expenses come out of that account, while our personal spending stays in our individual accounts. This approach has given us peace of mind that we're clearly not making gifts to each other - we're just each paying our fair share of living expenses. Plus, if we ever need to explain our arrangement to the IRS or anyone else, the documentation is crystal clear. The key thing seems to be maintaining that proportionality and keeping good records, which several people have mentioned. As long as you're not just having one person fund everything while the other benefits without contributing, you should be fine tax-wise.

0 coins

NebulaNomad

β€’

This is such a smart approach! Having that separate household account really does make the paper trail much cleaner. My partner and I have been doing something similar but less organized - we just kind of alternate who pays for what, which probably looks messy from a documentation standpoint. I'm curious about how you handle things like one-time larger expenses that come up unexpectedly? Like if the car needs a major repair or there's a home maintenance issue. Do you still split those proportionally, or do you handle those differently since they're not regular monthly expenses? Also, do you find it worth updating your contribution percentages if your income situations change significantly, or do you just stick with the original split you agreed on?

0 coins

As a teacher myself dealing with similar loan situations, I wanted to add something important that might help with your long-term planning. While you're right to keep the Parent Plus loans in your dad's name to preserve forgiveness options, make sure you're also maximizing your own federal loan benefits. Since your income-based payments are currently $0, you're still getting credit toward Public Service Loan Forgiveness (PSLF) if you're working for a qualifying employer. Those $0 payments count as qualifying payments! Make sure you're submitting your annual employment certification forms to track your progress. Also, depending on your teaching situation, you might qualify for Teacher Loan Forgiveness after 5 years of service, which could forgive up to $17,500 of your federal loans. This is separate from PSLF and could be worth pursuing even if your current payments are $0. Just wanted to make sure you're aware of all your options since the Parent Plus situation is already locked in terms of tax benefits!

0 coins

Luca Romano

β€’

This is such valuable information, especially about the $0 payments counting toward PSLF! I had no idea that was the case. Can you clarify something - if I'm currently on an income-based plan with $0 payments, do I need to be making payments on the Parent Plus loans to maintain my teaching employment eligibility? Or are those completely separate since they're in my dad's name anyway? Also, do you know if there are any income thresholds where my own loan payments might jump above $0 and affect my PSLF timeline? I'm trying to plan ahead financially.

0 coins

Quinn Herbert

β€’

Great questions! The Parent Plus loans you're paying and your own federal loans are completely separate for employment eligibility purposes. Since the Parent Plus loans are in your dad's name, they have no impact on your PSLF eligibility or teaching employment status. Your PSLF progress depends only on your own federal loans and qualifying employment. Regarding income thresholds, your payment amount on income-driven repayment plans gets recalculated annually when you recertify your income. If your teaching salary increases significantly, your required payment could go above $0. However, even if your payments increase, those higher payments still count toward PSLF as long as you're on a qualifying repayment plan and working for a qualifying employer. One tip: when you recertify your income each year, you can choose to file your taxes separately from a spouse (if applicable) to potentially keep your calculated payment lower. Also, make sure you're on the most beneficial income-driven plan - SAVE (formerly REPAYE) often has the lowest payments for teachers. The key is staying on top of your annual recertifications and employment certifications to keep your PSLF timeline on track!

0 coins

Kristin Frank

β€’

Just wanted to add one more consideration that might help with your overall strategy. Since you're a teacher and dealing with both Parent Plus loans and your own federal loans, you might want to look into whether your school district offers any loan repayment assistance programs. Some districts have started offering loan repayment benefits as recruitment/retention tools, especially in high-need areas or subject areas. Even if they can't help with the Parent Plus loans directly (since those aren't in your name), any assistance with your own loans could free up money in your budget to help with the Parent Plus payments. Also, if you're not already, make sure you're taking advantage of the Educator Expense Deduction on your own taxes. You can deduct up to $300 for classroom supplies and materials you purchase with your own money. It's not huge, but every little bit helps when you're juggling multiple loan payments! The tax situation with Parent Plus loans is frustrating, but at least you're being strategic about keeping your forgiveness options open. That's really smart long-term thinking.

0 coins

Ryder Greene

β€’

This is really helpful advice about looking into district loan repayment programs! I hadn't thought about that angle. Do you know if these programs are typically advertised openly, or is it something you have to ask HR about specifically? I'm also curious about the Educator Expense Deduction - I've been buying so many supplies out of pocket but wasn't sure if it was worth tracking for such a small deduction. Do you need to keep receipts for everything, or is there a simpler way to document it? Thanks for mentioning the strategic aspect of keeping forgiveness options open. Sometimes it feels like I'm making things more complicated by not consolidating everything, but hearing that it's smart long-term thinking makes me feel better about the decision!

0 coins

One more possibility to consider - some states issue partial refunds in installments if you have large refund amounts or if there are processing delays. I experienced this two years ago where my $1,200 state refund was issued as two separate payments: $900 initially and then $300 about 6 weeks later. The 1099-G will only show refunds that were actually issued during the calendar year. If part of your refund is still pending or was issued early the following year, it won't appear on this year's 1099-G. You can verify this by logging into your state tax account and checking your refund status. Look for any messages about partial payments or pending amounts. If you see that additional money is still owed to you but hasn't been processed yet, that would explain why your 1099-G shows less than what you were expecting based on your calculated refund amount. Also double-check that you're looking at the right tax year on your 1099-G - sometimes people accidentally compare their 2024 refund deposit against a 1099-G that's reporting 2023 refunds or vice versa.

0 coins

This is a great point about partial refunds! I actually had something similar happen with my federal refund a few years back where it came in two chunks because of some verification issues. For anyone trying to track this down - most state tax websites will show your complete refund history with dates and amounts for each payment. Look for a section called something like "Account Summary" or "Payment History" rather than just checking your current year return status. Also, if you use tax software that imports data from previous years, make sure it's pulling the right amounts. Sometimes the software will carry forward your expected refund amount from when you filed, but that might not match what actually got paid out if there were any adjustments or holds placed on your account.

0 coins

Ava Martinez

β€’

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I had no idea there were so many possible reasons for 1099-G discrepancies. Based on all the explanations here, it sounds like the consensus is clear: always use the amount shown on your 1099-G form for tax reporting purposes, not what was deposited in your account. The most common reasons for differences seem to be: - Interest payments included in your deposit (taxable as interest income, not state refund recovery) - Offsets for unpaid taxes, penalties, or other debts - Multiple refunds from different tax years combined on one form - Partial refund payments issued in installments For anyone still struggling with this, I'd recommend checking your state tax agency's website first for a detailed payment breakdown. Most states provide this information online and it can save you time compared to calling. If you need to speak with the IRS about how to report it correctly, the Claimyr service mentioned earlier sounds like it could save hours of hold time. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this kind of real-world knowledge is so much more helpful than trying to decode IRS publications!

0 coins

This is such a helpful summary! I'm actually dealing with this exact issue right now and was getting really stressed about it. Reading through everyone's experiences makes me feel so much better - it sounds like these discrepancies are way more common than I thought. I'm going to start by checking my state tax website for the payment breakdown like several people suggested. If that doesn't clear things up, I'll probably try one of those services to get through to the IRS since I really don't want to spend my whole day on hold. Has anyone had experience with this affecting their federal refund timing? I'm worried that if I report the wrong amount it might delay my federal return processing.

0 coins

Vince Eh

β€’

I went through this exact same frustration about 3 weeks ago! The transition caught me completely off guard too. I ended up choosing LOGIN.GOV and it was actually pretty straightforward once I got past the initial confusion. Here's what I learned: your old EFTPS account and all your information is still there - they just added this new security layer on top. After setting up LOGIN.GOV (took about 10 minutes), I was able to access my same account with all my payment history, saved bank accounts, and even my scheduled quarterly payments. The IRS apparently made this change as part of a broader security upgrade across all their systems. While it was annoying at first, I have to admit the new authentication feels much more secure than the old PIN system. I'd recommend just biting the bullet and setting up one of the new login methods - LOGIN.GOV seems to be the more popular choice based on what I've seen here. Don't worry about losing your account data - it's all still there waiting for you once you get through the new login process!

0 coins

Edwards Hugo

β€’

Thanks for sharing your experience! I'm still hesitant about making the switch but hearing that all the account data stays intact is reassuring. Quick question - when you set up LOGIN.GOV, did you have to verify your identity with documents like driver's license or passport, or was it just the basic email/phone verification? I'm trying to figure out how much time to set aside for this process.

0 coins

StarStrider

β€’

For LOGIN.GOV, I only needed to do the basic email and phone verification - no documents required. The whole process was pretty quick: created an account with my email, verified it through the email they sent, then added my phone number and verified that with a text code. After that, it automatically connected me to my existing EFTPS account. I'd say give yourself about 15-20 minutes just to be safe, but the actual setup was closer to 10 minutes for me. Much simpler than I expected!

0 coins

Omar Hassan

β€’

I went through this same transition about two weeks ago and wanted to share my experience since it sounds like a lot of people are dealing with this surprise change. The new LOGIN.GOV requirement initially frustrated me too, but once I got through the setup process, I actually prefer it to the old PIN system. The multi-factor authentication gives me more confidence that my tax payment information is secure, especially with all the identity theft issues we hear about these days. One thing that helped me was doing the LOGIN.GOV setup on a desktop computer rather than my phone - the interface seemed cleaner and easier to navigate. The verification process was straightforward: just email confirmation and a text message code to my phone. After connecting through LOGIN.GOV, I was relieved to find all my saved payment methods, scheduled payments, and payment history exactly where I left them. The IRS definitely could have communicated this change better to users, but the actual transition preserves all your existing account information. For anyone still on the fence about making the switch, I'd recommend just getting it done before your next payment deadline. It's a one-time setup that takes about 15 minutes, and then you're back to making payments as usual with better security.

0 coins

Zoe Kyriakidou

β€’

Thanks for the detailed walkthrough! I'm still pretty nervous about this whole transition but your experience sounds reassuring. I've been putting off dealing with this for weeks now, but my next quarterly payment is coming up soon so I really need to bite the bullet. One quick question - when you mentioned doing it on desktop vs phone, was there a specific reason the desktop worked better? I tend to do most of my banking and tax stuff on my laptop anyway, but wondering if there were any technical issues with the mobile version that I should be aware of. Also really glad to hear that the payment history stays intact. That was honestly my biggest worry since I use those records for my bookkeeping.

0 coins

Ethan Wilson

β€’

I've been dealing with 1099-B issues for years as someone who does a lot of trading, and I wanted to add a few more potential causes that haven't been mentioned yet. One thing to check is if you have any "constructive sale" transactions - these happen when you hold a short position against stock you own, or use certain options strategies. The IRS treats these as sales even though you might still hold the underlying stock, and this can create discrepancies. Also look for any transactions involving REITs (Real Estate Investment Trusts) or mutual funds that made capital gain distributions during the year. Sometimes these distributions affect your cost basis in ways that aren't reflected in the simple proceeds minus basis calculation. Another common issue is with bond transactions, especially if you bought bonds at a premium or discount. The amortization of bond premium or accretion of bond discount can create adjustments that affect the gain/loss calculation. If none of the other suggestions work, I'd recommend calling your broker directly. They can usually explain exactly how they calculated the net gain/loss figure and what adjustments were made. Most have dedicated tax support lines during tax season that are surprisingly helpful.

0 coins

This is really comprehensive - thanks for covering all these additional scenarios! I hadn't even thought about REIT distributions or bond premium amortization affecting my calculations. Your suggestion about calling the broker directly is spot on. I actually did this last week with Schwab about a similar discrepancy and their tax specialist was able to pull up my specific transactions and walk me through exactly why the numbers didn't match. Turned out I had a small return of capital distribution that was reducing my cost basis but wasn't obvious from just looking at the main totals on the 1099-B. For anyone hesitant to call their broker - most of them have dedicated tax help lines during filing season and the wait times are usually much better than trying to reach the IRS directly!

0 coins

Marilyn Dixon

β€’

I've been a tax preparer for over 15 years and see this 1099-B discrepancy issue constantly, especially with clients who have complex investment portfolios. Here are a few additional things to check that might help resolve your issue: First, look for any "substitute payment in lieu of dividends" transactions - these happen when your shares are loaned out for short selling by your broker. These payments are treated differently for tax purposes than regular dividends and can create basis adjustments that throw off the simple math. Second, check if you have any mutual fund exchanges or conversions during the year. Sometimes brokers report these as separate sale/purchase transactions on the 1099-B, but the cost basis calculations can get complex when there are multiple share lots involved. Also, don't overlook cryptocurrency transactions if your broker handles those - many brokers now include crypto sales on 1099-B forms, and the cost basis tracking for crypto is still somewhat inconsistent across platforms. Finally, if you're still stuck after trying all these suggestions, consider reaching out to a local CPA or enrolled agent. We see these discrepancies all the time and can usually spot the issue quickly. Many of us offer consultation services specifically for reviewing investment tax documents before filing. Better to spend a small fee upfront than deal with IRS correspondence later!

0 coins

LunarLegend

β€’

Thank you so much for this professional insight! As someone new to dealing with complex investment taxes, this is incredibly helpful. I had no idea about "substitute payment in lieu of dividends" - that sounds like exactly the kind of thing that could be causing my discrepancies without me realizing it. Your point about mutual fund exchanges is particularly relevant for me. I did some rebalancing between funds in my portfolio last year, and my broker definitely shows these as separate transactions on the 1099-B. I assumed they would net out correctly, but now I'm wondering if the cost basis calculations are getting muddled between the different share lots. I think I'm going to take your advice about consulting with a local CPA. At this point I've spent so many hours trying to figure this out myself that paying for professional help would probably save me time and give me peace of mind. Do you have any recommendations for what specific questions I should ask when looking for someone to help with investment tax issues?

0 coins

Prev1...674675676677678...5644Next