IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Mine said funded yesterday. Got it today! At 2am. Woke up to the notification. Paying off my credit card. Then saving the rest. First time getting a decent refund.

0 coins

Same thing happened to me! Went to bed anxious, woke up to a deposit notification. Best feeling ever after waiting for weeks to get my refund processed.

0 coins

Paolo Romano

•

Just to clarify for others reading - SBTPG processes payments in batches throughout the day, but when your bank actually posts the deposit depends on their specific processing schedule. Some banks only post once per day, others multiple times.

0 coins

Henry Delgado

•

Congratulations on your first post-graduation refund! I totally understand the nerves - that waiting period between "funded" and actually seeing the money is anxiety-inducing. From what I've experienced and seen here, most people get their deposits within 1-2 business days after SBTPG shows funded. Since it's showing today, you'll likely see it by Tuesday or Wednesday at the latest (assuming your bank processes over the weekend). As for what to do with it - sounds like you're already thinking responsibly! I'd suggest maybe splitting it: emergency fund first, then maybe a small "graduation celebration" purchase, and the rest toward student loans or building your credit history. What field did you graduate in? Sometimes there are professional development investments worth considering too. Keep us posted when it hits your account - we're all rooting for you! šŸŽ“

0 coins

This is such great advice! I'm actually in the same boat as Aisha - just graduated in December with my degree in accounting and waiting for my first "real world" refund to come through. The emergency fund suggestion is so smart, especially since we're both just starting our careers. I've been lurking in this community for weeks trying to understand all the SBTPG timing stuff, and everyone here has been so helpful. It's nice to see people actually supporting each other instead of just complaining! @ea73069aeb1e - what did you study? And thanks @fc0c86c676ab for the encouraging words - we new grads need to stick together! 😊

0 coins

Dylan Wright

•

I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now! Also married to a non-resident alien and having to file MFS with paper returns. The wash sale rules are definitely making everything more complicated than it needs to be. One thing I learned from my tax preparer is that you can actually request an extension (Form 4868) to buy yourself more time to figure out the best approach. This might give you breathing room to explore some of the summary options people mentioned here, or even get that ITIN application started for your spouse. Also, regarding the wash sales specifically - if you're showing a net loss anyway, you might want to double-check that HR Block is calculating the wash sale adjustments correctly. Sometimes the software can be overly aggressive in flagging transactions as wash sales when they might not technically qualify under the 30-day rule. Have you considered consulting with a tax professional who specializes in international tax situations? They might have experience with creative solutions for these exact circumstances that could save you from printing a novella!

0 coins

Great point about the extension! I hadn't even thought of that option. Form 4868 would definitely give me more time to explore these summary approaches without rushing. You're also right about double-checking the wash sale calculations - I should probably review some of those flagged transactions manually. HR Block might be overcautious since I had some positions I held and traded around the same time period. Do you have any recommendations for tax professionals who specialize in international situations? I'm in the Phoenix area if that helps. It might be worth the cost this year to get expert guidance, especially since this NRA filing situation is likely to continue until we get that ITIN sorted out. Thanks for the practical advice - sometimes you need someone else in the same boat to point out the obvious solutions!

0 coins

I'm in a very similar situation and ended up finding a middle-ground approach that worked well. Since you mentioned having a net loss and not owing any taxes, you might consider including just the first few pages of transactions as a "sample" along with a summary sheet showing your totals. I created a cover letter explaining that due to the volume of wash sale transactions (all properly calculated and reported on Schedule D), I was providing a representative sample and complete summary, with full details available upon request. I also included a simple table showing total proceeds, total cost basis, wash sale adjustments, and net loss - basically everything that feeds into your Schedule D. The key is making sure your Schedule D and Form 8949 totals are absolutely correct, since that's what the IRS computers will be checking against their broker reports. I mailed mine in February and it was processed normally within 6 weeks. This approach acknowledges the IRS requirements while being practical about the paper volume. Given that you're showing a loss and not claiming any refund related to the trading activity, the risk seems minimal. Just keep all your detailed records organized in case they ever ask for them (which is unlikely for a loss situation). Also definitely look into getting that ITIN for next year - it'll save you so much hassle going forward!

0 coins

This hybrid approach sounds really smart! I like the idea of including a few sample pages along with the summary - it shows good faith effort to provide documentation while still being practical about the volume. Quick question about your cover letter - did you reference any specific IRS guidance or publication that supports this approach? I want to make sure I'm framing it correctly if I go this route. Also, when you say "representative sample," how many pages did you actually include? I'm thinking maybe the first 10-15 transactions to show the format and complexity? Your point about the loss situation reducing risk makes a lot of sense too. The IRS is probably much more concerned about people understating gains than overstating losses. Thanks for sharing your real-world experience with this - it's exactly what I needed to hear!

0 coins

Luca Romano

•

One thing nobody's mentioned - you might be able to avoid this issue entirely in the future by using Venmo Business Profile instead of a personal account. It charges a small fee but it's specifically designed for business transactions and gives you better record-keeping options.

0 coins

Nia Jackson

•

Venmo Business is actually pretty decent, I've been using it for my side hustle. The 1.9% + $0.10 fee is annoying but you can write that off as a business expense too! Plus it automatically tracks everything for tax time which is super helpful. Way better than trying to sort through a personal account with mixed transactions.

0 coins

Miguel Silva

•

Just want to add my perspective as someone who went through this exact situation! I'm a freelance web designer and made the same mistake using personal Venmo for client payments in my first year. I was panicking about whether I could deduct my subcontractor expenses. The good news is that you're totally fine to claim these as business expenses. The IRS cares about the substance of the transaction, not the payment method. Keep your Venmo records showing the business purpose in the payment descriptions, and consider creating a simple spreadsheet that lists each payment with details about what work was performed. One tip that really helped me - I went back and asked each freelancer to send me a brief email confirming what services they provided and when. This created additional documentation beyond just the Venmo transactions. It was awkward to explain but everyone was understanding once I said it was for tax compliance. Also definitely switch to Venmo Business or a proper business bank account going forward. The fees are worth it for the cleaner record-keeping and professional appearance. You've got this - it's a common mistake and easily fixable!

0 coins

This is really reassuring to hear from someone who's been through the same thing! I'm curious about the email confirmation approach you mentioned - did you ask for these confirmations after the fact, or should I be doing this going forward? Also, when you created your spreadsheet, did you include any specific details beyond payment amount and service description? I want to make sure I'm covering all my bases in case of an audit.

0 coins

Carter Holmes

•

Brady, congratulations on reaching retirement! This is exactly the kind of question I wish I had asked when I first started my IRA withdrawals. You're absolutely right to be thinking about this upfront rather than just going with the default. The 10% withholding is really just a starting point - it's not personalized to your situation at all. What you'll want to do is estimate your total tax liability for the year and then figure out what percentage of your IRA withdrawals should cover that liability. Here are the key factors I had to consider when I went through this: - Total retirement income (IRA + Social Security + any pensions or part-time work) - Filing status and whether you'll use standard or itemized deductions - State tax situation (some states don't tax retirement income at all) - Whether your Social Security will be taxable (depends on your combined income) In my case, I initially thought 10% would be fine, but once I factored in that my Social Security became partially taxable due to my IRA withdrawals, I needed to withhold closer to 17%. The provisional income rules for Social Security taxation can really catch you off guard if you're not expecting them. My recommendation would be to do a comprehensive tax projection for your first year of retirement, including all income sources. You can always adjust your withholding percentage with Fidelity online if you need to make changes throughout the year. Better to start a bit conservative and get a small refund than owe penalties for underpayment. What other income sources are you expecting this year besides the IRA withdrawals?

0 coins

Carter, this is such helpful advice! I'm also approaching retirement (about 6 months out) and the Social Security taxation piece is something I definitely need to understand better. The provisional income thresholds seem like they could really impact the withholding calculation in ways that aren't immediately obvious. Brady, I'm curious about your specific situation too - will you be starting Social Security right away or are you planning to delay it? And do you have any other retirement income sources like a pension or 401k that you'll be drawing from? It sounds like the withholding percentage really depends on getting the full picture of all your income sources. One thing I'm wondering about - when you do that comprehensive tax projection Carter mentioned, do you just use tax software in "planning mode" or are there better tools specifically designed for this kind of retirement income planning? I want to make sure I'm not missing any of these interaction effects between different income sources. Thanks for starting this discussion - it's exactly what I needed to see as I prepare for my own transition!

0 coins

Omar Hassan

•

Brady, congratulations on your retirement! This is such an important question and I'm glad you're thinking about it proactively. I just went through this same process about a year ago and learned a lot through trial and error. The 10% default at Fidelity is really just their conservative baseline - it's definitely not tailored to your specific tax situation. What I found is that the right withholding percentage depends heavily on your total retirement income picture, not just the IRA withdrawal itself. A few key things that influenced my withholding decision: - Whether you're taking Social Security immediately (and if so, how much will be taxable based on provisional income rules) - Any pension or 401k distributions you're also taking - Your state's tax treatment of retirement income - Whether you're married filing jointly or single - Any other income sources like part-time work or investment dividends I initially started with 12% withholding but had to bump it up to 19% once I realized my Social Security benefits were going to be partially taxable due to my combined income level. The interaction between different retirement income sources can really surprise you if you're not expecting it. My suggestion would be to do a rough tax projection for your full year including all income sources, then work backwards to figure out what withholding percentage from your IRA would cover your expected liability. You can always adjust it mid-year through Fidelity's website if needed. Are you planning to start Social Security right away, or do you have other retirement income sources to factor in? That would help give you a better sense of whether 10% is in the right ballpark.

0 coins

Monique Byrd

•

I just went through this exact scenario last tax season and wanted to share some practical tips that really helped me. The 1099-K can definitely be intimidating when you first see that total, but remember it's just gross sales - not your actual tax liability. Here's what worked for me: I created three categories in my spreadsheet - "Clear Gains" (items I knew made money), "Clear Losses" (items I definitely lost money on), and "Uncertain Basis" (items where I had to estimate). For the uncertain items, I spent time on WorthPoint and PriceCharting to find comparable sales from when I originally bought them. One thing that surprised me was how much the eBay fees added up - between final value fees, payment processing, and promoted listing costs, I was able to deduct almost $300 more than I initially calculated. Make sure to download your annual seller summary from eBay which breaks down all these fees. Also, don't stress too much about having perfect receipts for everything. The IRS understands that normal people don't keep receipts for personal purchases from years ago. As long as your estimates are reasonable and you can explain your methodology, you should be fine. I actually got audited (totally random, not related to eBay) and the auditor was completely fine with my documented estimation process for a few items. The key is being honest about the personal vs. business distinction and keeping good records going forward!

0 coins

This is such great practical advice! I'm dealing with my first 1099-K this year and was getting overwhelmed trying to track down receipts from purchases I made years ago. The three-category approach sounds really smart - it's basically triage for your records. Quick question about the eBay fees - when you say you downloaded the annual seller summary, where exactly did you find that? I've been manually adding up fees from individual transactions but if there's a summary report that would save me so much time! Also really reassuring to hear about your audit experience. I've been paranoid about every estimate I make, but it sounds like reasonable methodology is what matters most. Did you have to provide any additional documentation during the audit, or were your spreadsheets and estimation notes sufficient?

0 coins

Luca Romano

•

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm in almost the exact same boat - got my first 1099-K from eBay sales and was panicking about how to handle the mixed gains/losses situation. One thing I wanted to add that I learned from my CPA: if you're dealing with collectibles that you held for more than a year, they're subject to the collectibles capital gains rate (28% maximum) rather than the regular long-term capital gains rates. This can be a significant difference if you're in higher tax brackets. Also, for anyone struggling with documentation, I found that old credit card and bank statements can sometimes help establish purchase dates and amounts, even when you don't have the original receipts. Your card company can usually provide statements going back several years if you call them. The key insight from reading everyone's experiences here seems to be: don't let the 1099-K scare you into thinking you owe taxes on the full amount shown. Focus on documenting your actual gains after basis and expenses, and be consistent in how you categorize personal vs. business items. Thanks to everyone who shared their real-world experiences - it's made this whole process feel much more manageable!

0 coins

This is such valuable information about the collectibles tax rate! I had no idea there was a different rate structure for collectibles vs. regular capital gains. That 28% rate could definitely make a big difference for anyone with significant gains from vintage items. The credit card statement tip is brilliant too - I never thought about using old statements to reconstruct purchase history. That could really help with those garage sale and cash purchases where there's literally no other paper trail. One follow-up question: does the collectibles rate apply to losses as well, or is that just for gains? And do you know if there's a specific definition of what qualifies as a "collectible" for tax purposes? I'm wondering about items like vintage electronics or retro clothing that might be in a gray area. Thanks for sharing what you learned from your CPA - having professional guidance really makes this whole 1099-K situation less intimidating!

0 coins

Anna Kerber

•

Great point about the collectibles tax rate! The 28% rate applies only to gains, not losses. Capital losses from collectibles are treated the same as other capital losses - they can offset capital gains (including collectibles gains) and up to $3,000 of ordinary income per year. For the definition of collectibles, the IRS is pretty broad: it includes art, antiques, gems, metals, stamps, coins, alcoholic beverages, and "any other tangible personal property specified by the Treasury." This generally covers vintage electronics, retro clothing, trading cards, toys, and most items people typically collect. The key test is whether it's tangible personal property held for investment or collection purposes rather than business inventory. The credit card statement approach has saved me multiple times! Even if the statement just shows "Amazon.com $47.99" from 2019, you can often cross-reference with your Amazon order history or use that date/amount to jog your memory about what you bought. Banks usually charge a small fee for older statements but it's worth it for significant items. One more tip: if you're near the $3,000 annual capital loss limit, consider the timing of future sales. Sometimes it makes sense to spread losses across tax years rather than taking them all at once.

0 coins

Prev1...629630631632633...5643Next