


Ask the community...
I'm dealing with a similar situation and have been following this thread closely - thank you all for sharing such detailed strategies! I wanted to add one more approach that worked for me recently: if you have a specific IRS notice or letter, try calling the direct number printed on that notice instead of the general line. I had a CP2000 notice and called the number specifically listed on it, and got through in about 25 minutes on my second attempt. The agent was already familiar with that type of issue and resolved it quickly. Also, for anyone feeling anxious about these calls (like I was!), remember that the IRS agents are generally very helpful once you reach them - they deal with phone system frustrations all day too and understand what you've been through to get connected. Don't let the broken phone system discourage you from getting the help you need!
This is such a valuable tip about calling the direct number on notices! I hadn't even thought to look for a specific number on my CP14 notice - I just assumed I had to use the main IRS line. 25 minutes is so much more reasonable than the multi-hour waits people are experiencing elsewhere. You're absolutely right about the agents being helpful once you actually reach them - I think a lot of my anxiety comes from the anticipation of the phone system maze rather than the actual conversation. Thanks for the encouragement and for sharing another practical strategy! I'm going to check my notice right now to see if there's a direct number listed. Really appreciate you taking the time to share this approach! š
I've been following this thread as someone who recently went through the same struggle, and I wanted to share what finally worked for me after trying several of the methods mentioned here. I started with the Taxpayer Assistance Center line (1-844-545-5640) that @Grace Patel recommended, but got a busy signal twice. Then I tried the main line using @Freya Larsen's button sequence at 7 AM on a Wednesday, and after a 43-minute wait, I actually got through! The key things that helped: using a landline, having all documents ready (especially my physical Social Security card as @Tami Morgan mentioned), and staying calm during the call. The agent was incredibly patient and resolved my amended return question in about 15 minutes. For anyone still struggling - don't give up! The persistence really does pay off, and this community's advice is spot-on. Also, if you're calling about a specific notice, definitely try the direct number on that notice first as @Diego Flores suggested. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - it made all the difference! š
This is a really helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation but with a twist - I made excess contributions to both traditional AND Roth IRAs for 2023. Do I need to file separate Form 5329s for each type of account, or can I report both on the same form? Also, I'm seeing conflicting information about whether I can recharacterize the traditional IRA excess contribution to a Roth IRA to avoid the penalty, or if that would just create another excess contribution issue since my income was too high for direct Roth contributions anyway. Has anyone dealt with this double excess contribution scenario before? My tax software (H&R Block) is giving me error messages when I try to enter both types of excess contributions, so I'm wondering if I need to handle this manually or switch to different software.
You can report both traditional and Roth IRA excess contributions on the same Form 5329 - there are separate sections for each type of account. Part IV is for excess contributions to traditional IRAs, and Part V is for excess contributions to Roth IRAs. Regarding recharacterization, you're right to be cautious. Since your income was too high for direct Roth contributions, recharacterizing your traditional IRA excess to a Roth would indeed create another excess contribution problem. You'd essentially be moving the excess from one bucket to another rather than solving it. Your best bet is probably to withdraw the excess contributions plus earnings from both accounts before the filing deadline. This would eliminate the 6% penalty for both. The earnings from the traditional IRA withdrawal would be subject to income tax and the 10% early withdrawal penalty, while the Roth earnings would only be subject to the 10% penalty (since Roth contributions are made with after-tax dollars). If H&R Block is giving you errors, you might need to enter them separately or consider switching to software that handles multiple excess contributions better. Some people have had success with the tax tools mentioned earlier in this thread for complex IRA situations.
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation but wanted to clarify something about the timing. You mentioned withdrawing the excess contributions "as of a few days ago" - the key deadline here is the tax filing deadline for the year the contribution was made (including extensions). For 2023 contributions, that deadline was October 15, 2024 (with extension). If you withdrew after this date, you'll still owe the 6% penalty for 2023 even though you removed the excess. The penalty applies because the excess was still in the account on December 31, 2023. Regarding TaxAct showing this on your 2024 Form 5329 - that's incorrect. You need the 2023 Form 5329 to report excess contributions made for tax year 2023. Most tax software struggles with this cross-year reporting. You may need to manually prepare and mail the 2023 Form 5329 separately from your main return. And yes, you're correct about the timing for the earnings tax - you'll report that on your 2024 return next year when you receive the 1099-R from Fidelity. The 10% early withdrawal penalty will apply to just the earnings portion, not the original contribution amount.
This is really helpful clarification about the timing! I had no idea about the October 15th deadline with extensions. So just to make sure I understand correctly - if someone made excess 2023 contributions and withdrew them in, say, November 2024, they'd still owe the 6% penalty for 2023 because the money was still in the account on December 31, 2023, even though they eventually fixed it? Also, when you say "manually prepare and mail the 2023 Form 5329 separately," do you mean I should get the actual 2023 version of the form from the IRS website and fill it out by hand, or can I still use tax software to generate it as long as I specify it's for 2023? I'm nervous about making calculation errors if I have to do it completely manually.
Just want to emphasize what others have mentioned about the safe harbor provision - this could save you from making any estimated payment at all! Since you already increased your W-2 withholding after that $8,000 surprise, calculate whether your total withholding for 2025 will equal at least 100% of your 2024 tax liability. If so, you're protected from penalties even if you don't make estimated payments on the capital gains. To figure this out: take your 2024 total tax (line 24 on Form 1040) and divide by your remaining paychecks this year. If increasing your withholding by that amount per paycheck gets you to 100% of last year's tax, you can skip the estimated payment entirely. This is often easier than juggling quarterly deadlines, especially for one-time gains like yours. If you do decide to make the estimated payment anyway for peace of mind, Form 1040ES has a worksheet that walks through the exact calculation. And yes, you can absolutely make just one payment without committing to the other quarters - the IRS doesn't require you to establish a pattern.
This is exactly the advice I needed to hear! I was so focused on figuring out the estimated payment amount that I didn't even think about whether I actually need to make one at all. After reading your explanation about the safe harbor provision, I went and calculated my situation. My 2024 total tax was about $12,500, and with my increased withholding I should hit around $13,200 this year just from W-2 withholding. So it sounds like I'm already covered and can skip the estimated payment entirely! Thanks for breaking this down so clearly - saved me from unnecessarily sending money to the IRS months early.
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a tax professional and wanted to add one important clarification that might help others reading this. The safe harbor provision that several people mentioned (paying 100% of prior year's tax liability) is absolutely correct and often the easiest solution for one-time capital gains situations. However, I want to emphasize the timing aspect that Darcy touched on - if you sold stocks in March 2025, that's actually Q1 of 2025, and the estimated payment deadline was April 15th, 2025. Since we're now past that deadline, if you haven't made the Q1 payment and don't qualify for safe harbor protection, you might face a small underpayment penalty for that quarter specifically. The good news is that increasing your withholding going forward can still help minimize any penalties, and for a $2,700 gain, we're talking about a relatively small penalty anyway (usually under $50). The IRS calculates underpayment penalties quarter by quarter, so even if there's a small penalty for Q1, you can avoid issues for the rest of the year. For future reference, keeping track of quarterly deadlines is crucial: Q1 (Jan-Mar) due April 15th, Q2 (Apr-May) due June 15th, Q3 (Jun-Aug) due September 15th, and Q4 (Sep-Dec) due January 15th of the following year.
Thanks for all the helpful responses everyone! Just to confirm my understanding based on what I'm reading here - since I paid $14,500 in qualified expenses and my AGI is $64,000, I would qualify for the full $2,500 AOTC. With my tax liability of $800 before credits, I would: 1. Use $800 of the credit to zero out my tax liability 2. Get $1,000 back as the refundable portion 3. Unfortunately lose the remaining $700 since it's non-refundable and I have no more tax to offset So in total I'd get $1,800 in benefit ($800 tax reduction + $1,000 refund) from the $2,500 credit. Does that sound right? Also really appreciate the clarification about the 40% rule - that explains why it's exactly $1,000 maximum refundable. TurboTax definitely didn't explain it that clearly!
Yes, that's exactly right! You've got the math down perfectly. With your $14,500 in qualified expenses and $64,000 AGI, you'd get the full $2,500 AOTC credit. And your breakdown is spot on - $800 to eliminate your tax liability, $1,000 as the refundable portion, and unfortunately you'd lose that remaining $700. That $1,800 total benefit ($800 + $1,000) is actually pretty good considering your tax situation! I know it stings to "lose" that $700, but getting $1,000 back as cash plus wiping out your entire tax bill is still a solid outcome. The 40% rule really should be explained more clearly by tax software. It would save so much confusion if they just said upfront "you can get up to $1,000 cash back regardless of your tax liability" instead of making people dig through the fine print!
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I was in almost the exact same situation last year - got overwhelmed trying to figure out the AOTC refundable portion and ended up paying a tax preparer $300 just to avoid the confusion. One thing that might help future readers: the IRS Publication 970 has a worksheet that walks through the AOTC calculation step by step, including how to figure out your refundable vs non-refundable portions. It's buried in there but once you find it, it's actually pretty straightforward. Also want to echo what others said about keeping good records of your qualified expenses. The IRS can ask for documentation up to 3 years later, so save those tuition receipts and textbook purchases! I learned this the hard way when they questioned my 2021 AOTC claim and I had to scramble to find my son's book receipts from freshman year. Great explanations from everyone - this community is so much more helpful than the IRS website sometimes!
Thanks for mentioning Publication 970! As someone new to navigating education credits, I really appreciate all the detailed explanations in this thread. The 40% rule and $1,000 maximum refundable amount makes so much more sense now. Quick question - when you say the IRS can ask for documentation up to 3 years later, does that include things like proof that the student was enrolled at least half-time? Or just the expense receipts? I'm helping my parents with their taxes for my college costs and want to make sure we keep everything we might need. Also really glad to see this community is so willing to help newcomers understand these confusing tax rules!
Charlotte White
Has anyone notice that different tax software handles this differently? In H&R Block, it automatically combines all entries with the same payer ID. But when I tried TurboTax at my friend's house, it let me enter each fund individually.
0 coins
Admin_Masters
ā¢That's true! I've used both TaxAct and TurboTax over the years and they handle it differently. TaxAct wanted me to combine everything with the same payer ID, while TurboTax gave me the option. The final tax calculation ends up the same either way though.
0 coins
Nia Johnson
I actually just went through this exact same situation with my Vanguard 1099-DIV! After reading through all these responses and doing some research, I ended up listing each fund separately using the same payer ID that Vanguard provided on the form. What helped me decide was realizing that the IRS computers are designed to handle this - they match the total reported dividends under Vanguard's payer ID with what Vanguard actually submitted to them. As long as those numbers align, you're good. I used TurboTax and it made it really easy to enter each fund on its own line with the same payer information. Plus, having each fund listed separately will definitely help me next year when I need to track cost basis for any sales. Much better than trying to figure out which fund was which from a combined entry. The whole process took maybe 10 extra minutes compared to combining everything, but the peace of mind was worth it. No issues with my return either - got my refund without any questions from the IRS.
0 coins