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When I started my LLC, I was confused too. My accountant told me to just use cash basis because: 1. It's easier to understand (money in, money out - done) 2. Better for taxes usually (you can time income/expenses better) 3. Less bookkeeping hassle 4. Most small businesses use it Unless you have inventory or make over $26 million annually, cash method is usually fine. The IRS generally prefers small businesses use cash accounting anyway.
I heard businesses with inventory HAVE to use accrual. Is that true? I'm planning to sell handmade jewelry through my LLC and will have some materials on hand.
The real question to ask: How do you plan to run your business day-to-day? If you're mostly getting paid immediately for services (like a coffee shop, hair salon, etc.), cash basis makes more sense. If you send lots of invoices with payment terms, have significant inventory, or have business loans/financing, accrual might give you a clearer financial picture. Don't overthink it though - most accountants can help you change methods later if needed. Cash is simpler to start with.
That's super helpful! My business will be mostly project-based digital marketing with clients paying after work is completed, usually within 30 days. No inventory really, just my time and some software subscriptions. So it sounds like cash would be simpler to start with?
For a project-based digital marketing business with 30-day payment terms and no inventory, cash accounting would absolutely be simpler to start with. It'll align better with your actual cash flow (which is what you really care about when you're starting out), and the record-keeping is much more straightforward. You'll just record income when clients actually pay you, which makes tax planning easier too. If your business model changes significantly down the road or you grow substantially, you can always reconsider, but cash accounting is the right choice for your situation now.
Quick tip for the OP: If you use tax software like TurboTax or H&R Block throughout the year (not just at tax time), they have estimated tax calculators built in that can help you figure out your payments. You can enter your stock sale info and they'll tell you how much to pay each quarter. Also, don't forget state estimated taxes if your state has income tax! Those are often due on the same dates as federal but not always.
Thanks for the tip! I do use H&R Block usually, but I never thought about using it mid-year. Do I need to buy the current tax year version now or can I use last year's until the new version comes out?
You'll need the current year version, but you don't have to pay for it yet. H&R Block and most other tax software companies let you create an account and start entering information for free. You only pay when you actually file. So you can use their calculators and worksheets now to estimate your quarterly payments without paying for the full software. Just make sure you're using the 2025 version (for taxes you'll file in 2026), not the 2024 version that was for filing this past April.
Does anybody know if there's like a minimum amount you need to make before you have to do these quarterly payments? I sold some crypto and made like $2,200 profit but not sure if I need to worry about this quarterly stuff.
Yes, there is a threshold. Generally, you need to make quarterly estimated tax payments if you expect to owe at least $1,000 in tax for the year after subtracting withholdings and credits, AND your withholding and credits will cover less than 90% of your current year tax or 100% of your prior year tax. For $2,200 in crypto gains, it depends on your overall tax situation. If you have a regular job with withholding that covers most of your tax liability, you might not need to make estimated payments for this relatively small amount.
I'm a bit confused by your situation. Are you itemizing deductions? If you're taking the standard deduction (which most people do after the tax law changes a few years ago), then the charitable donation won't actually impact your taxes anyway. For 2023 the standard deduction is $13,850 for single filers and $27,700 for married filing jointly. Unless your total itemized deductions (mortgage interest, state/local taxes up to $10k, charitable donations, etc.) exceed those amounts, you won't get any tax benefit from the car donation regardless of the value.
That's a really good point I hadn't considered. I've been so focused on figuring out the right donation value that I didn't step back to look at the bigger picture. I'm single and definitely won't have anywhere near $13,850 in itemized deductions. So you're saying this whole thing is basically moot for me since I'll be taking the standard deduction anyway? Ugh, I've spent hours researching this for nothing!
Yes, that's exactly right. Many people get caught up in the details of specific deductions without considering whether they'll actually itemize at all. The 2017 tax law changes nearly doubled the standard deduction while eliminating or limiting many itemized deductions, so now only about 11% of taxpayers itemize. However, your research wasn't entirely wasted! This knowledge will be helpful for future tax planning. If you know you'll be close to the itemization threshold in a particular year, you might strategically bunch charitable donations into that year to exceed the standard deduction amount and get tax benefit from them.
Quick tip since nobody mentioned it - check if your state tax return allows charitable deductions even if you take the standard deduction on your federal return! Some states have different rules and you might still get some benefit on your state taxes.
Just to address your question about being "doomed" - I was in a similar situation (7 years unfiled, owed about $180k). I finally got everything filed and worked with the IRS on a settlement. Ended up with an Offer in Compromise where I paid about 30% of what I owed. The key is to file EVERYTHING, be completely honest, and work with them on a solution. They have more flexibility than most people realize if you're genuinely trying to resolve the situation.
That's really encouraging to hear. How long did the whole process take for you from filing the back returns to getting the Offer in Compromise accepted?
The entire process took about 14 months from start to finish. The first part - gathering all my documentation and filing the back returns - took about 2 months. Then I submitted the Offer in Compromise application, which took another 2 months to prepare properly with all the required financial information. After submission, the IRS review process took about 10 months, including some back-and-forth with the assigned officer who was evaluating my case. There were a couple of requests for additional documentation during that time. It wasn't quick, but considering how much I saved in the end, it was absolutely worth the wait and effort. Just be prepared for a marathon, not a sprint.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned - if you do file all your back taxes at once, make sure you're sending them to the right IRS address. Different tax years might need to go to different places. I screwed this up and it caused months of delay in my case being processed.
MidnightRider
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you're filing your state taxes too! I caught up on my federal taxes a few years ago but completely forgot about state taxes. Ended up with a nasty surprise from my state tax authority a year later. Also, if you had any significant life changes during those unfiled years (marriage, kids, buying property, etc.), you might qualify for credits or deductions you're not aware of. This is where a tax professional can really save you money.
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Nia Johnson
β’Oh geez, I didn't even think about state taxes! I moved from California to Texas during this period, so I guess I'll need to file a partial year return for California? This is getting complicated fast.
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MidnightRider
β’Yes, you'll need to file a part-year resident return for California covering the period you lived there. The good news is that Texas doesn't have state income tax, so you won't need to file there. California is particularly aggressive about collecting taxes, so definitely prioritize getting that part-year return filed. They'll want to see exactly when you established residency in Texas. Keep any documentation showing your move date (lease agreements, utility setup, driver's license change, etc.).
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Andre Laurent
Jst wanted to share my experience - I didn't file for 4 yrs bc of depression after my mom died. When I finally did my taxes, I was actually OWED money for 3 of those years!! But I could only get refunds for 3 yrs back, so I lost a whole year of refund money (like $1200) bc I waited too long. so moral of story: file ASAP!! If u might be getting refunds don't wait or u lose that $$$
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Zoe Papadopoulos
β’That's a really important point! The IRS has a 3-year limit on claiming refunds, but there's no time limit on them collecting what you owe them. Completely unfair system if you ask me.
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