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5 Consider asking your IRA provider if they offer a special "removal of excess contributions" service. Many of them have dedicated processes specifically for fixing these situations and can handle most of the calculations and paperwork for you. When I discovered I had made excess contributions to my Roth IRA for two years, Fidelity walked me through their correction process. They calculated the exact earnings attributable to the excess amounts and filled out most of the paperwork. I still had to file Form 5329, but having their documentation made it much easier.
14 Would that still work if it's been more than 2-3 years? I thought there was some deadline for removing excess contributions without penalties.
5 You're right that there's a deadline for removing excess contributions without the 6% penalty - it's typically by the tax filing deadline plus extensions (around October 15th) for the year of the contribution. Since the OP's situation involves contributions from 2020-2022, they would likely still owe the 6% penalty for each year the excess remained in the account. However, most IRA providers can still process the removal of excess contributions even after this deadline. The benefit is that removing the excess now stops the 6% penalty from continuing to apply to future years.
17 Have you considered just leaving it alone? I'm not advising tax evasion, but realistically, the IRS is severely backlogged and understaffed. The chance of them specifically auditing your Roth contributions is pretty slim unless you're being audited for other reasons.
2 This is terrible advice. The IRS receives direct reporting of IRA contributions from financial institutions. If their systems flag a mismatch between your reported income and Roth eligibility, it'll trigger an automated notice. Besides, the penalties compound the longer you wait. Better to fix it proactively than risk bigger headaches down the road.
I work at a dealership and this question comes up A LOT with customers buying EVs. The MAGI limitation has been confusing everyone. From what our tax consultant told us, the instruction will indeed update each year to reference the current and prior year. For 2023 returns, you'll be able to use 2023 or 2022 MAGI, whichever is lower. The 2022/2021 reference in the current instructions is just for the 2022 tax year filing. It's standard practice for the IRS to update these year references on their forms and instructions. The bigger issue people should worry about is whether their vehicle meets all the other new requirements for the credit.
What about leasing? I heard there's some loophole where if you lease an EV instead of buying, the MAGI limits don't apply to the customer because the credit goes to the leasing company? Is that true?
Yes, that's correct about leasing. When you lease an EV, the leasing company (usually the manufacturer's financing arm) is technically the owner of the vehicle, so they receive the tax credit directly. They often pass this benefit on to the customer in the form of reduced lease payments or a capital cost reduction. In these cases, the MAGI limits don't apply to you as the lessee because you're not claiming the credit directly. This has indeed become a popular workaround for higher-income customers who wouldn't qualify for the credit if they purchased. Just make sure the leasing company is actually passing along the credit value to you in the lease terms.
Can someone explain in plain english what this MAGI stuff means for Form 8936? I bought a Tesla Model 3 in January and I'm not sure if I'll get any tax credit when I file next year. My income is around $145,000 and I'm single.
The MAGI (Modified Adjusted Gross Income) limit for single filers to get the full EV credit is $150,000. At $145k you should be eligible for the full credit IF your car meets all the other requirements (battery components, minerals, etc.). The "prior year" option means when you file your 2023 return in 2024, you can use either your 2023 MAGI or your 2022 MAGI, whichever is lower. So if your income was lower last year, you could use that instead.
One important thing nobody's mentioned yet: if you received unemployment benefits, make sure you check if any taxes were withheld. Many people don't realize that unemployment is taxable income, and if you didn't have taxes withheld, you might owe money when you file. Box 4 on your 1099-G will show if any federal tax was withheld. Also, depending on your state, you might get a break on some unemployment income. Some states don't tax unemployment benefits at all, and others follow federal rules. Worth checking your specific state's policies.
Thanks for bringing this up! I just checked my 1099-G and see they only withheld about 10% for federal taxes. Is that going to be enough or should I be preparing to pay more when I file?
The 10% withholding might be enough, but it depends on your total income for the year and tax bracket. Unemployment benefits are taxed at your normal income tax rate, not a flat 10%. If unemployment was your only income for the year, 10% might cover it for federal taxes. But if you had other income sources or worked part of the year, you might owe additional taxes. A good tax program will calculate this for you when you enter all your information. Just be prepared for the possibility of owing some money, and don't be caught off guard. This is one advantage of filing sooner rather than later ā if you do owe, you'll have more time to plan for payment before the filing deadline.
Has anyone used Credit Karma Tax for filing with unemployment and claiming the missed stimulus? Their ads say it's completely free but I'm wondering if there are hidden costs for claiming the Recovery Rebate Credit or reporting 1099-G.
I used Credit Karma Tax last year with a 1099-G and claiming a missed stimulus. It was actually completely free, no hidden fees even with the Recovery Rebate Credit. The interface was pretty easy to use, though not as polished as TurboTax. Just make sure you have all your documents ready before you start!
For what its worth, I used a CPA for the first time last year after starting my consulting business and it was tooootally worth the $350. She found so many deductions I would've missed (home office, partial internet/phone, mileage) that saved me like $2k in taxes. Plus she showed me how to track expenses better for this year. Just make sure you find someone who specializes in small business if thats your situation!
How did you find your CPA? Did you just google or get a referral? I'm worried about ending up with someone who doesn't know what they're doing.
I got a referral from another small business owner friend - definitely the way to go if possible! Ask around to people in similar situations as yours. If that's not an option, check reviews but specifically look at responses from people with tax situations similar to yours. A good interview question is asking potential CPAs about their experience with your specific situation (side business, interstate move, etc). If they start immediately mentioning specific deductions or considerations for your situation without prompting, that's usually a good sign they know their stuff!
Honesty, i think it depends on how much your time is worth. My taxes are complicated (investments, rental property, small business) and I could probably figure it out myself with enough research but it would take me DAYS. I pay my CPA $400 and he handles everything. peace of mind + time saved = worth every penny to me.
That's a really good point about the time aspect. I spent like 6 hours just trying to figure out how to categorize my side business expenses last year with the software, and that was before all these new complications. Maybe paying someone is worth it just for the stress reduction alone!
GalaxyGlider
Just to add some additional info that might help - I work at a bank and we see tax payments process differently depending on how you pay: 1. Direct debit through tax software: This typically takes 1-3 business days to actually hit your account after the scheduled date. 2. Credit card: The charge shows up immediately as pending, but it might not fully post for 1-2 days. 3. IRS Direct Pay (on IRS.gov): These typically process within 1-2 business days of your scheduled date. Just something to consider if you're cutting it close with your bank balance!
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Mei Wong
ā¢Do you know if there's any difference in processing time between major banks and smaller credit unions? Mine sometimes takes longer for ACH transfers.
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GalaxyGlider
ā¢Yes, there can definitely be differences. Larger banks typically process ACH transfers (which is what IRS payments are) more quickly - usually within 24 hours of receiving them. Smaller credit unions sometimes batch their ACH processing and might only run them once per day, which can add a delay of up to 24 hours. If you're with a smaller credit union, I'd add an extra day to the expected processing time just to be safe. So if the IRS schedules the withdrawal for the 15th, it might not actually hit your account until the 17th or 18th at a smaller institution.
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Liam Sullivan
What happens if your payment bounces? My account is pretty low and I'm scared I'll get hit with penalties if there's not enough money when they try to withdraw.
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Amara Okafor
ā¢If your payment bounces, the IRS will send you a notice and charge you a penalty - usually about 2% of the payment amount. They'll also charge interest on the unpaid amount until you pay it. Plus your bank will probably charge you an NSF fee too.
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