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If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


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Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


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I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Miguel Ramos

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you have good records of your original contributions. The whole "only pay taxes on the gains" thing depends on being able to prove you already paid taxes on the initial contributions. I learned this the hard way and had to pay taxes on the full conversion amount because I couldn't adequately document my non-deductible contributions from previous years.

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Liam Sullivan

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What kind of documentation should I keep? I have confirmation emails from my brokerage showing the contributions, and I have last year's tax returns. Is that enough?

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Miguel Ramos

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Confirmation emails are a good start, but you really want your account statements showing the contributions. Keep your Form 5498s that show IRA contributions for each year - these are usually sent out in May for the previous tax year. Your tax returns are crucial too, especially if you filed Form 8606 with them. If you didn't file 8606 forms for those non-deductible contributions, you should file amended returns to include them. Without the 8606 forms establishing your basis, it becomes much harder to prove which portions were already taxed.

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QuantumQuasar

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Has anyone here used TurboTax to handle an IRA conversion? I'm in a similar situation and wondering if it walks you through Form 8606 correctly or if I should use a different software.

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Zainab Omar

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I used TurboTax last year for my backdoor Roth and it worked fine. The interview questions specifically asked about non-deductible contributions and IRA conversions. Just make sure you answer the questions about having a basis in your IRAs correctly. The one tricky part was making sure I entered the 1099-R information exactly as it appeared on the form.

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Diego Rojas

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One important thing to note - if you do have legit expenses to offset that 1099 income, make sure you've got proper documentation. The IRS scrutinizes Schedule C expenses closely, especially when they're added after a CP2000 notice. Gather all your receipts, bank statements, credit card statements, etc. that prove these were actual business expenses related to earning that 1099 income. Organize them clearly and include a summary sheet showing how they connect to the 1099 work. Don't try to claim personal expenses as business ones - that's just asking for an audit. But if you have genuine business expenses that you didn't claim because the income wasn't reported, you're entitled to claim them now.

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CosmicCaptain

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What kind of documentation would be best? I have credit card statements showing the purchases, but I didn't keep all the receipts. Will bank and credit card statements be enough, or does the IRS require more detailed proof?

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Diego Rojas

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Credit card and bank statements are a good start, but they only show that you spent money, not necessarily what it was for. The more detail you can provide, the better. If you don't have all receipts, include what you do have, along with a written explanation of each expense category and how it related to earning the 1099 income. Any contracts, emails with clients, or other documentation that shows the nature of your business activities will help support your case. The IRS is more likely to accept your expenses if you can clearly demonstrate they were ordinary and necessary for your business.

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dont forget to check if you're close to any threshold for penalties. if your total tax underpayment is less than 10% of your total tax liability you might avoid the accuracy-related penalty. also if you can show reasonable cause for the missing 1099 (like you gave it to your preparer who messed up) you might get the penalties removed even if you still have to pay the tax.

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This is good advice. I went through something similar and was able to get the penalties removed by showing I had given all my documents to my preparer. The IRS form 843 can be used to request penalty abatement after you've resolved the CP2000 issue.

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The whole refund advance industry is basically legalized predatory lending imo. They target people who need money desperately and charge insane fees. I worked for one of the big tax prep chains for two seasons and quit because I felt like I was scamming people. Here's what they don't tell you: - The "no fee" advances are usually only for small amounts ($500-$1000) - Larger advances have fees that equal crazy high interest rates - Your credit score WILL be checked despite what they might imply - Many people get denied AFTER paying prep fees - If there's ANY issue with your return (even minor), you get denied The tax prep fees are also usually inflated to cover the "free" small advances. You're better off filing yourself with free software and waiting the 2-3 weeks for direct deposit.

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JaylinCharles

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Thanks for the insider perspective! Quick question - since I already paid and they filed my return, is there any way to still get an advance elsewhere or am I stuck waiting for the normal refund now? My emergency isn't going to wait 3 weeks unfortunately.

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Unfortunately, once your return is filed, you can't get an advance from another company. The advance loans are tied to the preparation process, and you can only file once. Your best option now is to track your refund closely using the IRS "Where's My Refund" tool and consider other short-term options for your emergency. If you filed electronically with direct deposit, many refunds are coming through faster than the 21-day estimate this year - I've seen some clients get theirs in 10-14 days. Much better than payday loans or credit card advances, which have even worse terms than refund advances.

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Ryder Greene

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Has anyone actually gotten their regular refund faster this year? The IRS site says I'm still "processing" after almost 3 weeks and I've heard nothing.

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The IRS is running about on schedule this year for most simple returns, but there are definitely delays for returns with certain credits like EITC or Additional Child Tax Credit. Those are automatically held until mid-February by law. Returns with inconsistencies, verification flags, or identity theft markers also get delayed for manual review. If you're hitting the 21-day mark with no updates, it might be worth contacting the IRS directly to see if there's an issue they're not showing on the tracker.

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Has anyone else noticed refunds are taking SO MUCH LONGER this year compared to previous years? I filed mid-January and barely got mine last week. My brother filed early February and still waiting. Seems like they're extra slow this year for some reason.

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Adriana Cohn

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That makes me feel a bit better actually. I was worried something was wrong specifically with my return. Do you think I should still try calling them or just wait it out at this point?

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If you're at the 21-day mark, it's definitely worth checking in. The IRS won't really give you much info before that timeframe since they consider it normal processing. Once you're past 21 days, they can actually look into what might be causing the delay. I'd recommend either using the "Where's My Refund" tool daily or trying to get through to a representative to make sure nothing's actively wrong with your return. Sometimes there are simple verification issues they can resolve quickly once you're in contact with them.

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Ellie Kim

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Did you claim any tax credits like the Earned Income Credit or Additional Child Tax Credit? Those automatically slow down processing because of extra verification steps. Also, if your refund is large ($8,300 is pretty significant), that can trigger additional review too.

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Adriana Cohn

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Yeah I did claim the Child Tax Credit for my two kids. And I think you're right about the amountβ€”it's definitely the largest refund I've ever had. Guess that could be triggering extra scrutiny.

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Jace Caspullo

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Those are definitely two factors that can extend processing times. The IRS is particularly careful with refunds that include tax credits for children because there's been fraud in that area. And yes, larger refunds generally receive more scrutiny. I'd recommend waiting until you hit the full 21 business days (not calendar days) before getting too concerned. If you e-filed on February 10, that would put you around March 12 for the 21 business day mark. If you still don't have an update by then, that's when I'd try contacting the IRS directly.

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Something to keep in mind with crypto capital gains - you need to specify if they're short-term (held less than a year) or long-term (over a year). The tax rates are completely different! Short-term gets taxed at your regular income rate while long-term is typically much lower (0%, 15%, or 20% depending on your income bracket).

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Andre Laurent

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Thanks for pointing that out. I held most of these coins for over a year, but some of the DeFi stuff was shorter term. Do I need to separate those out specifically on different forms, or just calculate different rates?

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You'll report them separately on your Schedule D and Form 8949. You'll use different sections of Form 8949 - Part I for short-term transactions and Part II for long-term. Each transaction gets reported individually with its purchase date, sale date, proceeds, and cost basis. This is where good record keeping becomes really important, as you need to know the specific purchase and sale dates for each position. If you're using tax software, it will guide you through this process and calculate the appropriate tax for each category.

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For anyone dealing with missing cost basis info - I learned from my accountant that if you absolutely cannot determine your original cost, the IRS allows you to use $0 as your basis. Obviously that means paying taxes on the full amount, but it's better than making up numbers you can't support and risking penalties.

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Using $0 cost basis is the nuclear option though - definitely a last resort! I'd exhaust every possible method to reconstruct your basis before going that route. Bank statements, credit card statements, emails from exchanges confirming purchases - anything can help establish at least some basis.

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