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I ran into this exact problem last year! That $103 is definitely interest/earnings that accumulated in your traditional IRA before you converted to Roth. Even if it was only in there briefly, money markets and other default holding options can generate small returns. What tripped me up with TurboTax was the Form 8606 part. You need to make sure you've indicated that you made a non-deductible contribution to your traditional IRA first, then the conversion. TurboTax sometimes misses this connection if you don't enter things in the right order. Did you also receive a 5498 showing your original contribution to the traditional IRA? That form would show the initial amount you put in before conversion.
No, I never got a 5498 showing my original contribution to the traditional IRA. Maybe that's part of the problem? I contributed $6,000 to the traditional IRA in January and converted it a few weeks later. Would TurboTax be confused because it doesn't see the original contribution form?
That's definitely the issue! The 5498 for traditional contributions typically comes really late (like May or June), long after tax filing season. So you need to manually enter your non-deductible contribution in TurboTax. Look for the section in TurboTax about "IRA Contributions" and make sure you've entered your $6,000 contribution as non-deductible to a traditional IRA. Then when you enter the conversion, TurboTax will understand that only the $103 above your contribution amount is taxable. Without that first step, TurboTax thinks the entire conversion amount is taxable!
Did you check if you had any existing pre-tax money in ANY traditional IRAs? This is the pro-rata rule trap that gets so many people with backdoor Roths. If you had any pre-tax IRA money anywhere (even old 401k rollovers), that would cause some of your conversion to be taxable.
I don't think I have any other IRA accounts... but now you've got me worried. How would I even check this? Is there a way to see all retirement accounts tied to my SSN?
You can check your credit report sometimes - it might show old accounts. Also check with previous employers to see if you had any 401ks that might have been auto-rolled to IRAs. The pro-rata rule is brutal and catches a ton of people doing backdoor Roths!
One thing nobody's mentioned yet is that you should also consider the actual tax brackets. For 2025, the brackets are progressive, meaning you only pay the higher rate on the portion of income that falls within that bracket. So let's say your first job pays $45,000 and your second job will pay $35,000. That's $80,000 total. You won't suddenly pay the higher rate on the entire $80,000 - only the portion that extends into the higher bracket. This is a common misunderstanding that makes people afraid of earning more money.
Thanks for explaining this! So I won't actually lose money by making more, I'll just need to make sure I'm withholding enough to cover the higher bracket on that additional income? That makes me feel better about pursuing the second job.
Exactly! You'll never lose money by earning more. You'll always take home more net income even if the last dollars you earn are taxed at a higher rate. The key is just making sure your withholding is set up correctly so you don't get surprised at tax time. Either ask your second employer to withhold at the "Single, No Deductions" rate (which withholds at a higher rate) or specifically request additional withholding on your W-4 form. The IRS website has a good withholding calculator that can help you figure out the right amount.
Has anyone mentioned state taxes yet? Remember that many states have their own income taxes too, and the same withholding issue can happen there. In my case, I had to pay an extra $1,200 in state taxes when I had two jobs because neither employer withheld enough for my total income level.
Good point! I'm in California and when I worked two jobs, I got absolutely hammered on state taxes. I thought I had the federal part figured out but completely overlooked the state portion.
Yeah, it's easy to forget about state taxes. Each state has different brackets and rates too, so you really need to look at your specific state's tax system. Some states have flat taxes where this is less of an issue, but states with progressive brackets (like California, New York, etc.) can really add up when you have multiple income sources.
Just so you know, if that $2,700 debt is your only income issue, you might still get a refund depending on your other tax situations. The cancelled debt gets added to your income, but if you had taxes withheld from your paychecks during those 4 months of work, that withholding might still cover your total tax liability. Also, if you have kids or qualify for earned income credit, those credits might offset the additional tax from the 1099-C. Don't panic until you actually run the numbers through your tax software.
Thanks for mentioning that! I do have a dependent I claim and had withholding from my paychecks. Does the 1099-C income affect my eligibility for earned income credit? That's been a big help for me in past years.
Cancelled debt income reported on a 1099-C does count toward your AGI, which can affect the amount of earned income credit you receive. However, it's not considered "earned income" for purposes of calculating the EIC itself. The higher AGI might reduce your EIC amount, but you'll still qualify if you meet the other requirements. The best approach is to enter all your information including the 1099-C into your tax software and see what happens. Many people are surprised that the impact isn't as bad as they feared once all credits and deductions are calculated.
Has anyone tried disputing a 1099-C? I got one for a debt that I thought was outside the statute of limitations. Seems weird they can come after you for taxes on something they legally couldn't collect anyway.
The statute of limitations applies to their ability to sue you to collect the debt, not to their right to cancel it and issue a 1099-C. Even if they can't legally force you to pay through the courts, they can still decide to write it off and report it to the IRS. Kind of a crappy system if you ask me.
Don't forget that when you claim your niece as a dependent, you might qualify for Earned Income Credit too, depending on your income. This could be a pretty significant credit! Make sure whatever tax software you use asks about this or that you mention it to your tax preparer. Also, keep track of any medical expenses you paid for your niece. If your total medical expenses for the year exceed 7.5% of your adjusted gross income, you can deduct them if you itemize.
Thanks for mentioning the EIC! I make about $42,000 a year as a dental assistant, would that income level qualify me for the Earned Income Credit with two dependents? And I actually did pay for some doctor visits and prescriptions for my niece when she got strep throat this year, so I'll definitely save those receipts.
Yes, with an income of $42,000 and two qualifying dependents (your daughter and niece), you should qualify for some amount of Earned Income Credit. For 2024, the income limit for EIC with two qualifying children is around $55,000 for a single filer or head of household, so you're well within the range. Definitely keep those medical receipts! While you might not exceed the 7.5% AGI threshold for medical deductions, it's always good to track everything. Also, don't forget about any education expenses for both children - there might be credits available for those as well, like the American Opportunity Credit or Lifetime Learning Credit when they're older.
I just want to point out something important - make sure your sister doesn't also try to claim your niece on her taxes! Even if she didn't work, she might file to get refundable credits, and the IRS will reject both returns if the same dependent is claimed twice. Have a clear conversation with your sister about this. Maybe even get something in writing. I've seen family drama happen over this exact situation.
This happened to my brother and his ex-wife! Both claimed their daughter and it was a MESS. His refund was delayed for months while the IRS sorted it out. They even had to submit additional documentation to prove who provided the most support.
Exactly! And what makes it worse is that these conflicts can trigger correspondence audits which can delay refunds by months. The IRS typically sends notices to both parties asking for proof of eligibility to claim the dependent. The person who doesn't have the right to claim the dependent but filed first can cause major headaches for the rightful claimant. That's why it's so important to have that conversation early and get something in writing, even if it's just a simple signed statement that can be kept with tax records.
Anna Xian
Something nobody's mentioned yet - if you do go ahead with the early termination, make sure to check if Navy Federal offers any penalty-free withdrawal options. Some credit unions allow partial withdrawals without penalties in certain circumstances. For example, my credit union lets me withdraw up to 20% of the principal from long-term certificates without any penalty once during the term. Others offer hardship exceptions or age-based withdrawals. Worth asking about before you terminate the whole thing.
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Aidan Percy
ā¢I had no idea partial penalty-free withdrawals might be an option! Do you know if these types of features are typically mentioned in the initial certificate agreement or is this something I'd need to specifically ask about? Honestly I just assumed it was all-or-nothing when it came to these certificates.
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Anna Xian
ā¢These options are usually buried in the fine print of your certificate agreement, but customer service reps can tell you right away if they're available. Most people don't know to ask about them. The specific terms vary widely between institutions - some offer age-based withdrawals (like over 59½), others have hardship provisions, and some allow one-time partial withdrawals up to a certain percentage. Navy Federal specifically has some certificates with withdrawal options that others don't, so definitely call and ask directly about "partial withdrawal options" or "penalty-free withdrawal provisions" for your specific certificate type.
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Jungleboo Soletrain
Another consideration - interest rates have gone up significantly since 18 months ago. If you're planning to reinvest the money into another certificate or savings product, you might actually come out ahead even after paying the early withdrawal penalty. I did this calculation for my own 2-year certificate recently: had a 1.8% certificate from 2022, paid a 3-month interest penalty to break it early, then reinvested at 4.6%. Even with the penalty, I came out ahead after just 4 months because of the higher rate.
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Rajan Walker
ā¢This is such a good point! I actually did a similar move with a Chase CD last month. The penalty hurt initially, but the new rate was more than double my old one. There are some good CD rate comparison tools online that can help calculate the break-even point after accounting for penalties.
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