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Just want to add something important about QBID calculations that nobody mentioned. Make sure you're accounting for the "taxable income limitation" too. Your QBID can't exceed 20% of your taxable income AFTER subtracting net capital gains. So if a big chunk of your income is from capital gains, that could be why you're seeing a lower QBID number than expected. I made this mistake last year and couldn't figure out why my deduction was smaller than the 20% of QBI I was calculating manually. Also, if your K1 Box 20 has code Z with multiple amounts listed, make sure you're entering ALL of them into FreeTaxUSA. The software needs each component to calculate correctly.
That's a great point that I hadn't considered. We did have some capital gains last year from selling some stocks (about $35,000). Would that really affect the QBID calculation that much? I didn't realize capital gains would impact this.
Yes, capital gains definitely impact the calculation! The 199A deduction is limited to 20% of your taxable income MINUS net capital gains. So in your case, if you had $35,000 in capital gains, your effective taxable income for QBID purposes would be reduced by that amount. For example, if your taxable income was $200,000 including $35,000 capital gains, your QBID would be limited to 20% of $165,000 ($200,000 - $35,000), which is $33,000. Even if your QBI was higher, you couldn't take more than that $33,000 as your QBID. This is a commonly overlooked limitation that can significantly reduce the expected deduction.
Has anyone else noticed that FreeTaxUSA sometimes struggles with complex K1 entries? I had a similar issue with the 199A deduction last year but found a workaround. Try downloading and installing the free IRS QBID worksheet (just google "IRS Section 199A worksheet") and calculate it manually first. Then you can see exactly where the software might be making different assumptions. For me, the issue was that FreeTaxUSA was applying an aggregation method for multiple businesses that wasn't appropriate for my situation. I ended up switching to TaxSlayer which handled it better for my specific case.
5 Something else to consider - are you planning to do the S Corp election yourself or work with a tax professional? I tried doing it myself last year and messed up the form because I didn't realize my operating agreement needed specific language for S Corp compatibility. Ended up having to redo everything and missed the deadline. Also, remember you'll need to run payroll and pay yourself a "reasonable salary" once you elect S Corp status. That means additional payroll tax filings and compliance requirements starting from whatever date you make the election effective.
8 What's considered a "reasonable salary" exactly? I've heard different things - some say 50% of profits, others say market rate for your position. I'm also wondering about the payroll part, do you use a service for that or DIY?
5 The "reasonable salary" requirement is probably the trickiest part of S Corp compliance. There's no fixed percentage or formula - the IRS evaluates it case by case. The most defensible approach is researching what similar positions earn in your industry and location. BLS.gov has salary data that can help document your reasoning. I absolutely recommend using a payroll service rather than DIY. I tried handling it myself initially and it was a nightmare keeping up with all the filing requirements and deadlines. I now use Gusto which costs about $45/month but handles all the calculations, filings, and direct deposits automatically. The peace of mind is worth every penny, especially since penalties for incorrect payroll tax filings can be steep.
19 Sorry to jump in - but wanted to mention that making yourself an S Corp in the middle of the year creates a short tax year, which means filing two tax returns for one calendar year. You'll need to file: 1) Schedule C for your self-employment from Feb-May 2) Form 1120-S for your S Corp from May-Dec That can significantly increase your tax preparation costs. Plus, many accountants charge more for S Corp returns (typically $800-1200) compared to Schedule C preparation. If your projected tax savings are modest, it might make more sense to wait until Jan 1 for simplicity.
16 Interesting point about the short tax year filing. Would that mean two separate state filings as well? And what about quarterly estimated tax payments - would those need to be recalculated mid-year?
Quick tip from someone who makes this kind of mistake ALL THE TIME: Check your decimal places! One year I owed $7,800 instead of $78 because I accidentally put my stock sale proceeds as $120,000 instead of $1,200. The worst part is I didn't catch it before filing and had to do an amended return which was a huge pain. Also double check if you entered something as a deduction when it should be a credit or vice versa. That can cause massive swings in what you owe.
Thanks for this tip. I went back and checked all my numbers again and noticed I accidentally entered my student loan interest as $45,000 instead of $4,500. That was part of the problem! Still working through the rest of the issues, but every bit helps.
Glad you caught that! Student loan interest is an easy place to make a mistake since there's a cap on how much you can deduct anyway (I think it's $2,500 max for 2024). Another thing to check is filing status - if you accidentally selected "Married Filing Separately" instead of "Single" it can sometimes cause weird tax calculations. Also verify your state residency information is correct if you're filing state taxes too.
Has anyone else noticed that TurboTax has gotten worse at catching obvious errors? I used them for years but switched to FreeTaxUSA last year after TurboTax let me submit a return with my birthday entered incorrectly which caused all kinds of problems.
I've used both and definitely prefer FreeTaxUSA. TurboTax seems designed to upsell you on premium features while FreeTaxUSA just lets you file without all the marketing. Plus it's WAY cheaper.
Another thing to keep in mind with dependent care FSA - you need to use all the money by the deadline or you lose it (unlike HSA which rolls over). I learned this the hard way last year when I put too much in and couldn't use $700 before the deadline. Some employers offer a grace period of a few months after the year ends, but not all do. Make sure you check your plan rules!
Does anyone know if you can use dependent care FSA for summer camp? My kids are school age but need supervision during summer months. Would that qualify as a dependent care expense?
Yes, summer day camps generally qualify as eligible dependent care expenses for FSA purposes! This includes general day camps, as well as specialized camps focusing on sports, arts, or academics. The key requirement is that the camp enables you to work or look for work. Overnight camps do NOT qualify though, as they're considered primarily for entertainment rather than care. Also, kindergarten and higher education costs aren't eligible, as they're considered educational rather than care expenses.
Here's a simple way to think about dependent care FSA vs medical FSA: Medical FSA: Money comes out pre-tax, you spend it on medical expenses, never shows up on your tax return again. Simple! Dependent care FSA: Money comes out pre-tax, BUT the government also offers dependent care tax credits. Form 2441 makes sure you don't double dip by adding the FSA back to your income and then calculating if the credit would've been better. It's basically a "which is better" calculation.
Thx for the clear explanation! So if I'm in the 24% bracket plus 7% state tax, am I saving 31% by using the dependent care FSA? Or is there more to it?
Kendrick Webb
Don't forget you need to compute your insolvency IMMEDIATELY BEFORE the cancellation of debt. I messed this up the first time. Also make sure you're including ALL assets, even retirement accounts and personal property (car, furniture, etc). And all liabilities too! The IRS has a worksheet in Publication 4681 that's actually pretty helpful for this part.
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Xan Dae
ā¢Thanks, that's helpful! Do you actually submit that insolvency worksheet with your tax return or just keep it for your records? And how detailed do you have to be with listing personal property? Like do I need to estimate the value of my couch and TV separately or just put "household goods: $X amount"?
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Kendrick Webb
ā¢You don't submit the worksheet with your return - it's just for your own records and in case of an audit. But definitely complete it thoroughly and keep it with your tax documents. For personal property, you don't have to be extremely detailed for each individual item. Grouping them makes sense - "household furnishings: $2,000" or "electronics: $1,500" is fine. Just make reasonable estimates of what you could actually sell these items for (garage sale or Craigslist values), not what you paid for them. And yes, definitely include vehicles, jewelry, tools, anything with value. For retirement accounts, only include what you could actually access (minus penalties) if you had to liquidate them at that time.
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Hattie Carson
Does anyone know if credit card debt that was forgiven counts as cancelled debt? I had about $3,500 forgiven through a debt settlement program but never received a 1099-C. Not sure if I need to report it or fill out this form??
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Fiona Gallagher
ā¢Yes, forgiven credit card debt generally counts as cancelled debt and the credit card company should have issued you a 1099-C if it was over $600. If you didn't receive one, they might not have filed it, or it could have been lost in the mail. You're technically supposed to report it as income even without the 1099-C, but you can still claim the insolvency exclusion on Form 982 if you qualify. I'd recommend checking with the debt settlement company to see if a 1099-C was issued. You can also create an account on the IRS website to view all forms that were filed under your SSN.
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