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Another option you have is to "recharacterize" that $500 from each Roth IRA to Traditional IRA. This effectively treats it as if you originally contributed to a Traditional IRA instead of a Roth. If you're over the Roth income limits, you're probably also over the deductible Traditional IRA limits if you have workplace retirement plans, so the $500 would be a non-deductible Traditional IRA contribution. This could be useful if you're planning to do a backdoor Roth conversion at some point.
Thanks for this suggestion. If I recharacterize to Traditional, would I need to file any special forms with my taxes this year? And can I just open a Traditional IRA now even though the contribution was technically made in 2023?
Yes, you would need to file Form 8606 with your tax return to report the non-deductible Traditional IRA contribution. This is important because it establishes your "basis" in the Traditional IRA, which will matter for tax purposes if you ever convert that money to a Roth in the future. You can open a Traditional IRA now even though the contribution was for 2023. The recharacterization process will treat it as if you made the contribution to the Traditional IRA in the first place. Just make sure you complete the recharacterization before your tax filing deadline (including extensions).
Wait, I'm confused about something. If you're at the income limit for Roth contributions, wouldn't the phase-out mean you can contribute SOME amount rather than nothing? Like if the phase-out range starts at $218k and ends at $228k for married filing jointly, and you're somewhere in that range, you should be able to calculate the exact amount you can contribute. FreeTaxUSA should do this calculation for you.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - if you're living abroad, you automatically get a 2-month extension on your filing deadline (June 15 instead of April 15). Also, US citizens abroad can request an additional extension to October 15. But these extensions only apply to filing - if you owe money, interest still accrues from the April deadline. Also, look into whether you need to file an FBAR (FinCEN Form 114) if you have foreign financial accounts that exceed $10,000 at any point during the calendar year. The penalties for not filing FBARs can be way worse than for regular tax returns!
Do you know if the FBAR requirement applies to joint accounts? I have access to my parent's account in their home country that definitely exceeds $10k but it's not technically my money.
Yes, the FBAR requirement absolutely applies to joint accounts. If you have signature authority over a foreign account - even if the money isn't technically yours - you still need to report it if the total of all your foreign accounts exceeds $10,000 at any point in the year. This is a common oversight that can lead to serious penalties, so I'm glad you asked. The reporting is separate from your tax return and done electronically through FinCEN's BSA filing system. The good news is they have procedures for submitting late FBARs with explanations for reasonable cause to potentially reduce penalties.
Anyone know which tax software is best for filing back taxes? I tried using TurboTax but it wants me to pay for each past year separately which gets expensive fast.
FreeTaxUSA lets you file prior years for only $15 per federal return (state is extra). They have forms going back several years. You'll have to mail in the printed returns though - e-filing isn't available for prior years on most platforms.
One thing to consider with an Offer in Compromise is that the IRS will file a Notice of Federal Tax Lien before processing your offer. If you're concerned about your credit, this is something to be aware of. Also, while your offer is being considered, the 10-year statute of limitations on collecting the debt is suspended. I went through this process last year. It took about 8 months from submission to acceptance. During that time, all collection activities stopped, which was a relief. My accepted offer was about 25% of what I owed, but I had to liquidate my retirement account to pay it (which hurt, but was worth it to be free of the debt). The most important advice I can give: document EVERYTHING and be 100% truthful. They will verify everything you report, and any discrepancies will get your offer rejected.
Thanks for sharing your experience! Did you use a tax professional to help with your OIC or did you handle it yourself? I'm trying to gauge how complicated the process really is.
I started doing it myself but quickly realized I was in over my head. The forms themselves aren't terribly complex, but understanding what the IRS will allow for expenses and how to present your financial situation in the most accurate but favorable light is where professional help made a difference. I used an Enrolled Agent who specialized in tax resolution. Cost me about $2,500, but considering they helped me get an offer accepted that saved me over $40,000, it was money well spent. The EA knew exactly which expenses would be questioned and made sure I had documentation ready. They also helped me respond when the IRS came back with questions, which they inevitably did.
Something nobody's mentioned yet - if your OIC is accepted, you'll be on a compliance monitoring period for 5 years. During this time, you must file all required tax returns and pay all taxes on time. If you don't, the IRS can revoke the offer and reinstate the original debt minus whatever you paid. Also, any tax refunds you would receive during the calendar year that your offer is accepted will be kept by the IRS and applied toward your debt. This is in addition to whatever settlement amount you agree to pay.
I switched from TurboTax to FreeTaxUSA last year and am SO much happier. They already have form 4684 ready to go for 2025 filing season (I'm using it right now). The interface takes a little getting used to if you're coming from TurboTax, but it's WAY cheaper and handles all the same forms. The only real difference is you don't get the same hand-holding as TurboTax, but if you've been doing your taxes for years, you probably don't need that anyway. Plus their customer service is surprisingly responsive if you have questions.
Does FreeTaxUSA handle rental properties well? That's my biggest concern with switching from TurboTax - I have three rental units and the Schedule E stuff gets complicated.
FreeTaxUSA handles rental properties really well. I have two rental properties myself, and their Schedule E section is comprehensive and straightforward. You can track all the same expenses, depreciation calculations, and passive activity rules that TurboTax covers. The main difference is the interface is more form-based rather than interview-style for some sections, which I actually prefer since it gives me more direct control. They also have specific sections for tracking basis, improvements vs. repairs, and other rental-specific issues. The help content isn't as extensive as TurboTax, but it covers all the important rules and definitions.
Consider checking TaxAct too. They've already updated their form 4684 for the 2025 filing season. I've been using them for years after getting fed up with TurboTax price increases. They're much more affordable and their interface is clean and straightforward.
Malik Thomas
I fixed this exact problem in TurboTax last year. The issue is that TurboTax doesn't automatically connect your Form 8606 basis with the 1099-R for the conversion. Here's what worked for me: 1) When entering the Roth IRA 1099-R with code R, make sure to select that it was a "recharacterization to traditional IRA" 2) For the traditional IRA 1099-R with code 2, select that it was a conversion to Roth IRA 3) Importantly, when it asks about the traditional IRA contribution, select that these were NON-DEDUCTIBLE contributions 4) Double-check your Form 8606 to ensure it shows the $4,250 as your basis TurboTax sometimes has a bug where it doesn't carry the information between these forms correctly. You might need to go back and forth between the entries a few times before it calculates everything properly.
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QuantumQuasar
ā¢Thanks so much for these specific steps! I'll try going through them tonight. Do you remember if there was any specific screen where you had to indicate that the funds were "already taxed" or something similar? I feel like I might be missing a checkbox somewhere.
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Malik Thomas
ā¢Yes, there is a specific screen! After entering the 1099-R with code 2, TurboTax asks something like "Tell us about this distribution." That's where you need to select that it was a conversion of non-deductible contributions. Then on the next screen, it will ask if you've already paid taxes on this money - that's the crucial checkbox you need to mark YES on. The software doesn't make this obvious at all. Once you check that box, you should see your taxable amount reduce to zero (or to just the earnings portion if there were any gains between recharacterization and conversion).
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Isabella Oliveira
Can I ask how much the recharacterization paperwork cost you? My broker wants to charge me $50 for excess contribution correction and I'm wondering if that's standard. Also, did the backdoor Roth conversion work well right after the recharacterization?
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Ravi Kapoor
ā¢My broker (Vanguard) charged $25 for the recharacterization paperwork last year, so $50 seems on the high end but not outrageous. Fidelity doesn't charge anything for this service though, at least they didn't when I did it.
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QuantumQuasar
ā¢My broker charged $35 for the recharacterization paperwork, which seemed reasonable given the headache it saved me. The backdoor Roth conversion went perfectly smooth right after the recharacterization - it was all done within the same week. The paperwork hassle was worth it since I was able to keep the full contribution amount in retirement accounts rather than taking a distribution and paying the 6% penalty.
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